Haunt Forum banner

HeadPopper How-To

95K views 91 replies 49 participants last post by  Lunatic 
#1 · (Edited)
I have made a modified version of the BairdManor Headpopper prop. This prop was the group project at the IN/KY Make N Take for August, 2008.

Thanks to BairdManor for the inspiration.
http://www.my-mania.com/halloween/headpopper.html

My version utilizes the same mechanism, but has a much smaller (and less expensive) motor. This version is designed to use a styrofaom head or skull since the motor will not lift as much weight as the wiper motor used by BairdManor. This mech will work with a 30 in tall tombstone, but can be easily modified to fit other size stones.

Materials: ( all purchased at Menards other than the motor/wallwart)
16" square of 1/2 inch plywood, cut in half (two 8" X 16" pieces)
20"long 1" X 4" wood slat
1/8 X 1/2" aluminum bar stock, cut into 5" and 25" lengths
3/8" X 4-1/2 inch lag Screw Eye
two 1/4-20 X 1.5" Bolts
three 1/4-20 Nuts
two 1/4" lock washers
one 1/4-20 locking nut
two 1 1/2" wood screws
Motor http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008063018195822&item=5-1587&catname=
12Vdc wallwart



Start by assembling the platform as pictured. Screw the wood slat in the center of one of the plywood pieces and then screw the two plywood pieces together to form an 'L'. Drill a 1/4 inch hole sixteen inches from the bottom of the wood slat, and install the Lag Screw Eye.


Drill a 1/4 inch hole in each end of the small aluminum bar. This will become the crank arm. Install the 1-1/2 inch bolts, nuts, and lock washers as shown.


Thread the bolt shown into the motor shaft. It may be necessary to use a 1/4-20 tap to make threads inside the motor shaft.


Screw the assembled motor/ crank arm to the 4"wide wood slat. Make sure to align the motor shaft with the center of the slat, and that the crank arm has approx. 1/2 inch clearance at the platform base.
 
See less See more
5
#2 · (Edited)
Next, install the 25" long piece of aluminum stock thru the lag eye screw and onto the crank arm bolt. Loosely secure it with a locking nut, leaving space for the long bar to rotate freely on the crank arm.



Secure the foam head or skull to the top of the aluminum bar.Secure the tombstone to the front of the platform, making sure the foam head or skull does not hit the stone while the motor is rotating.(add in a spacer board between the platform and the tombstone if necessary.


behind the scenes video
headpopper prop :: headpopperprop.flv video by davethedead - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid105.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid105.photobucket.com/albums/m240/davethedead/headpopper%20prop/headpopperprop.flv@@AMEPARAM@@vid105@@AMEPARAM@@105@@AMEPARAM@@m240/davethedead/headpopper%20prop/headpopperprop
 
#8 ·
Great looking prop, Dave!

The only concern I have is that when I looked on the Surplus Center link, it listed the motor as "intermittant duty".

I made the mistake of buying an intermittant duty motor (actually, two of them) from them a few years ago, not realizing it until I had them in my posession. They refused to take them back, since they are an electrical item, and I was stuck with two half-horse motors that would kick out on thermal overload after running for a minute or two. Hope you don't have the same problem.

Ron
 
#9 · (Edited)
Great looking prop, Dave!

The only concern I have is that when I looked on the Surplus Center link, it listed the motor as "intermittant duty".

I made the mistake of buying an intermittant duty motor (actually, two of them) from them a few years ago, not realizing it until I had them in my posession. They refused to take them back, since they are an electrical item, and I was stuck with two half-horse motors that would kick out on thermal overload after running for a minute or two. Hope you don't have the same problem.

Ron
Not to worry about the "intermittent duty"...I have several of these motors in use this year, and have tested them for 6 to 8 hours at a time with absolutely no problem.
 
#16 ·
Phil, as with any good prop, the connectors are hacked from something else.:D I took the largest connector block from a computer power supply and separated it into individual two prong connectors. The pin spacing is perfect, but the connector itself needed trimmed slightly to fit. I can post pix if you need them....:devil:
 
#18 ·
I really like this idea and thank you Dave for sharing. One thing I thought about some more though, was the movement across the top of the tombstone. If someone wants to just have a head pop straight up and down, could this be the way to do it? (If this is a repeat which is probably is, sorry in advance)

straight movement2 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!@@AMEPARAM@@http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3069/2834395329_973c29cdbc_m.jpg@@AMEPARAM@@2834395329@@AMEPARAM@@973c29cdbc

A - Head assembly connected to your rod, thru two eye lag bolts, to a metal plate. That metal plate would work to allow up and down movement without allowing the rod assembly to move sideways.
B - Wiper motor assembly showing the dashed movement or arc of what it would follow. Place a bolt through the end of your crank arm that had no threads for smooth movement and a couple of washers to keep your square plate (A) from slipping off.

Any opinions on this?

Also, if you wanted to have sideways movement instead of up and down you could easily take the plate and attach it with the slot going up and down.
 
#21 ·
I really like this idea and thank you Dave for sharing. One thing I thought about some more though, was the movement across the top of the tombstone. If someone wants to just have a head pop straight up and down, could this be the way to do it? (If this is a repeat which is probably is, sorry in advance)
I think the simplest way to get an up and down motion would be to add a second eye bolt to create a vertical track for the head bar to follow.
http://www.flying-pig.co.uk/mechanisms/pages/reciprocate.html

I just may have to try this out...it would be a nice change-up since I plan on having several of these...thanks fg4432!
 
#22 ·
that looks good dave ...
Hmm that gives me an idea for the up and down
would that work if it was horizontal/ what would the weight limit be on that also?
 
#24 ·
Lilly,

I would say weight limit is all in how much structure the prop has and what parts you use. If you use smaller or thinner metal then you have a higher chance to bend things in the process. All is fair in trial and error.

Dave,

Adding a second eye bolt will not necessarily keep your prop head more up and down, it could cause your motor to swing outside the available arc that the two eye bolts would allow and simply stop your motor or start bending/breaking parts. However, your link to the up and down motion is a little more complicated to make, imho. You have to keep your head attachment in a track system and provide another bend/rotation point near the top. If you find that you have the parts for either way, I say go for it. Best of luck.

Felipe
 
#25 ·
Dave -- I thought I posted this last night but for some reason it's not here today -- I see you're using one of those black plastic gear motors. I have a few as well and have been wondering what kind of load they can carry. I'm making a small skull (little smaller than adult... maybe Bart sized) out of Celluclay. I want to then put a couple layers of guaze/Creepy Cloth on it for a sort of wraith/reaper hood. Think this will still be light enough for one of those motors? I hate to use a rotisserie motor for this application because the ones I have make a racket when you position them upright.
 
#27 · (Edited)
I believe you are right Felipe....didn't really think it thru.

Revenant...as for the weight load...all I can say is give it a try. I briefly tried a bucky skull on this setup and the motor was laboring quite a bit. Lighter would obviously be better, but just how much weight will a cheap little motor move?

I don't know...let's ask Mr Owl....;)
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top