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My cauldron creep creeped me out today

5K views 28 replies 21 participants last post by  Nevergoback 
#1 ·
I am doing a 3-axis cauldron creep this year and I just put the arms and head on the frame. I was surprised when I took a step back just how creepy he was! Kudos to Devil's Chariot for his awesome design!

I am making modifications to handle the extra weight of the skull and the bucky bones. I will post more if people think it's worth the electrons.

early cauldron creep picture by jamesb_42 - Photobucket

RATS! I still can't get the
tags to work. Can someone spell out in detail how to use those tags so that I can embed a picture rather than a link? Thanks.
 
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#2 ·
You mean like this?:



Left click on the box that says "IMG Code", then right click on the highlighted portion and select "Copy" from the menu that appears. In your posting window, right click and select "Paste". When you save the post, the picture will appear.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Ok, since people seem interested, I will post more. I in no way present this as a some improvement to DC's Cauldron Creep. I am merely combining two established elements together (ie: the 3-axis skull and the cauldron creep). The only innovation you will find here are the eyes, which I have not powered up yet, but will describe when the time comes.

Anyway, since I am using much heavier bones/skull than DC did, I had to beef up the frame. All of this I will hide under the cloak.



I simply bolted the bucky arms and legs to the frame. I also screwed a pin into the elbow of the top bucky arm to keep his elbow joint from moving.

For the motor, I used an allelectronics.com CAT# DCM-351. I just attached a pin 90 degrees to the turntable and it was good to go.



I cut a 1.5" section of a 1.25" wooden dowel and drilled a hole down through it's length which was just large enough to fit the metal shaft attached to my skull. The wooden dowel piece then fit into the head elbow joint of the frame.

Here is a video of a quick "proof of concept" test I did. I need to adjust the head movement a lot (he is looking down too much, and needs more side-to-side motion) but it looks good for a first try. I am currently working on his backbone/ribcage (the spine with no ribs is currently just shoved under his cloak). I want his curved spine to be protruding out a rip in his cloak. I also need to fix his hands. More to follow.

 
#17 ·
I hooked up the eyes today. They are designed to appear to follow you as you walk around the room. Unfortunately, the video turned dark in its transition from my Mac to Youtube. You can see them better in the previous video but the LEDs were not lit.



The eyes are clear acrylic with just a little black pigment mixed in. I placed small, bright red LEDs at the very center of the ball. I got the LEDs a few years ago from Electronic Goldmine but I don't see them there anymore. Any small, bright, WIDE angle LED should do. I used some small Christmas balls as molds.

I made a wooden frame to hold everything in place and glued the LEDs (all wired up) to the tip of a 4-40 threaded rod. I measured the distance from the top of the frame to the center of the ball and screwed down the rod to hold it at the right distance. If I were smarter, I would have tried to dissolve away the metal from the Christmas ornament with some bleach. Then I would have been able to see what I was doing. Unfortunately, I was not that smart and made a few duds. But, after a few tries, I got my eyeballs.

 
#18 ·
It's always a good sign when your own props start to freak you out. I know once I calm down a bit from being startled I get very excited about how the ToTs will react to the finished product.

The movement you have going is great. The expression on that skull is freaky.
 
#19 ·
Here is a quick update.

I made a ribcage with foamboard and coat hangers. This was the easiest ribcage I have ever made. All I was going for was the shape and the only visible part will be the top of the spine.



My home-made 3-axis skull doesn't do a good job of looking up and I do need this guy to look at the ceiling at one point, so to give me better control, I replaced the gearmotor for his back movements with a 1/4-scale servo (hitec HS-805BB). These are pretty powerful servos for $40.



Now I ripped the back of his cloak at strategic points. I need to work on this a bit to make the spine a bit more visible, but I will wait until I get him into position to do that. Now all I have to do is tatter his cloak a bit more and work on his movements.





What do you think, should I give him a hood to hid the seam in his skull (this room will be relatively well lit) or leave him hoodless? Any easy ways to fix that seam without re-painting the entire skull?
 
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