# Yard Haunt to Walk through



## GothicCandle (Mar 26, 2007)

This year, the turn out of my haunt was so awesome, everyone liked it! Not one person ignored my props(which is difficult to do, there is so much, but some have managed it in the past) and I got so many complements that It has me really excited about next year, and I'm already trying to plan my haunt to be even bigger and better! So I was thinking, of maybe doing a proper walk through. I have the room, and with some hard work this year I'm sure I would have more then enough props for quite a few themed rooms. So, I'm looking for advice, tips, hints, and anything helpful. I'm going to put an ad in the paper(next year) asking for volunteers to help me set up and to be actors and I'll advertise like crazy with flyers and any other way I can think of. So,
Any advice?
Cool ideas/suggestions?


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## Draik41895 (Oct 25, 2008)

no ideas for you,but i was planning on doing the same thing.ill see what advice you get


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## debbie5 (Mar 2, 2007)

I wouldn't put out a blind ad. You have no idea what kind of oddballs you might get. Everythnig from benign oddballs to criminals. You might want to find a cub scout troop or community group to help, but be prepared to have lists of what to do and kids who might need their Ritalin & break things. I thoguth about asking kids for help, but am too persnickety to let others into my stuff.


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## CreepyCanmore (Mar 27, 2007)

I've been doing a walk-through for 3 years now and I'll warn you it's a lot of work. I just finished the tear down today, but still have all the cleaning and packing. Our build time is a couple of weeks, not including prop building.

Having said that, it's a lot of fun and very rewarding. I agree with not putting out a blind call for help. I'd recruit people you know and can trust to help build and more importantly to show up on the big day. Good luck with the plans I hope it happens for you.


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## jdubbya (Nov 6, 2005)

I agree with Creepy Canmore. Our front yard display also mushroomed to the point where we wanted to expand it to a walk through. For the past 5 years, it now encompasses our driveway, back patio, garage and back yard. Patrons enter from the drive and exit through a gate to our neighbors driveway. Have a separate exit to avoid people backtracking and congestion. You also need several mature, responsible helpers to help with crowd control and to man the que line, as you may have to make folks wait a bit while another group goes through. We found out that you don't want a steady stream of patrons as it can get unruly pretty quick so we let groups of 8-10 through at a time. If you plan to use scare actors, get older teens or adults. Young kids tend to think jumping out and screaming in your face is sary. It's annoying. We have no less than 8 helpers on Halloween night to keep things running smoothly and provide extra "eyes". The cool thing about a walkthrough is that you can have more scenes to entertain patrons, rather than what your front yad limits you to. We do three main scenes with added scares along the path and exits. It becomes a real attraction. The downside is, as mentioned,it's a lot of extra work. I still have a pile of stuff on my back porch and the garage is a maze of props and wall panels that still need packed away. We've seriously discussed reverting back to a smaller walk through or even just the front yard again, simply due to the amount of time and effort it involves to pull off a walk through haunt. Good luck with it. Expanding is fun and you'll really pull in the crowds.


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## nixie (Sep 17, 2008)

We're also planning (hoping) to expand to a walk-through next year (in our back yard). I'm glad you asked this question, we've got some great advice here already.


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## joker (Sep 25, 2007)

This year was my 3rd year doing a walk through and I ended up not doing my haunt at home and put on a 5,000 sq.ft. charity haunt.

Recommendations:

*Safety First* - I've tossed many completed props, ideas, etc... due to that possible situation someone may get hurt. Regardless of how great a job you do, how many people come through, it would all be ruined if one person was hurt due to something that should have never been used.

*Over Build* - (see Safety First) I know a lot of haunters use sheets, black plastic etc... to build walls and divide up rooms and to me it's dangerous. If you scare someone into a plastic wall where do they end up? Landing on someone else, a prop, falling on something that could hurt them? No thanks...

I build my walls out of 4x8 sheets of OSB and frame them out with 2x4's. It's basically modular in design and allows me to change things easily from year to year.

*Start Early* - You're going to want to start building panels early depending on how many you need and you'll want enough time to make sure they're secured so that your haunt doesn't come tumbling down.

*Pick a Theme* - Developing a theme for my walk through's have helped me decide what scenes/rooms I should build and how the haunt should progress from start to finish.

*HAVE FUN* - It's definitely a lot of work and you will eventually use up every possible space trying to expand every year, but it's a lot of fun. Don't try and do to much the first year and learn to delegate work to those who want and can help.


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## waldiddy (Aug 4, 2008)

Ahh, yes, Wall Panels. They're sturdy, but 2 questions always come to mind:

1) if you're outdoors, can your panels hold up to rain/wind?
2) and, sort of related to the wind question, what's the best way to keep panels upright? Use supports in the back at a 45 degree angle to prop them up? 

Then, there's the whole question of storage, which is already a problem for me. Having said all this, I'm ready to construct many panels this year. A large part of my haunt has been outdoors for the past couple of years, and I'm so sick of dealing with wind. Also, a panel with a foam front sculpted to look like stone is gonna look 1000x better than a sheet of black plastic.

Just curious, joker, how heavy is your typical 4x8 OSB panel framed w/ 2x4s?


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## The Archivist (May 31, 2009)

I can tell you from personal experience, 4X8 framed OSB weighs between 70 - 80 lbs. using the 2x4s. If possible, you might want to try using 1x3, its a LOT lighter. I used 2x4s and OSB to design and construct the Gallows for Ghost Train. It took 4 people to safely carry it anywhere.


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## joker (Sep 25, 2007)

waldiddy said:


> Ahh, yes, Wall Panels. They're sturdy, but 2 questions always come to mind:
> 
> 1) if you're outdoors, can your panels hold up to rain/wind?
> 2) and, sort of related to the wind question, what's the best way to keep panels upright? Use supports in the back at a 45 degree angle to prop them up?
> ...


I paint my panels with exterior paint so no issue. As far as supporting the panels I use a rafter type setup going across the top and 45's in the corners and where appropriate. I also never have a wall that doesn't have at least one 90 in it or a very stable secure place to anchor both ends.

45's on the back side also work if you have the space to do it, but I've yet to have to do it that way.



The Archivist said:


> I can tell you from personal experience, 4X8 framed OSB weighs between 70 - 80 lbs. using the 2x4s. If possible, you might want to try using 1x3, its a LOT lighter. I used 2x4s and OSB to design and construct the Gallows for Ghost Train. It took 4 people to safely carry it anywhere.


4 people, seriously? I'm not a big guy and I can carry a panel by myself. They can be easily moved with two people. Working in a warehouse type environment this year we moved them 10 at a time using a 4 wheel furniture dolly.


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## doggieshop (Jul 15, 2008)

This was my first year doing a "Walk Thru". We have in the past done guided tours. This year I set up two 10 x20 portable carports, secured them with anchors and rachet tiedowns. I Used portable dog kennel for my walls ( Mostly because I had it ). It worked great and was very strong. We covered it with black landscape material. It did take a lot of time, but it worked out great. Safety most always be the first thought.


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## waldiddy (Aug 4, 2008)

I'm having trouble envisioning a 'rafter type setup across the top', joker. That sounds .. complicated. I've seen plans from other folks on the web putting up wall panels and it looks like they're just relying on T-intersections and corners to keep things upright. 

I've got an arbor, made of wood, that I'd love to enclose with something besides black plastic. Panels would be sooo nice. I'm thinking that if I had enough panels going across the side, that it would be pretty stable if the panels are bolted together through the 2x4s in 2 places on each side and then the ends of the wall panels were anchored somehow to my arbor's posts (they're 6x6 and each post rests in 200 lbs of cement 2 1/2' deep). 

It's so crazy to be making plans for 2010 already, isn't it? But, I know how much work these things can be ... it's always good to start early.


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## joker (Sep 25, 2007)

I guess rafter wasn't the best term. 

Basically where I have long runs of panels or large rooms I run 2x4's across the top of the room/hall whatever from one section to the other. Depending on the setup you sometimes putting the 2x4's across at 45's work better. I pretty much just add 2x's wherever they're needed to sturdy up the walls.

I'll try and draw up some examples of what I've done in the past and post here.


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## waldiddy (Aug 4, 2008)

Got one more question for you ... how critical is it for wall panels to have a flat floor? My outside area, which is just begging for a sturdier, better looking series of wall panels, isn't really flat. I've got some ideas on how to get around that, like maybe just clamping the panels together, even though one will be higher than its neighbor.


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## joker (Sep 25, 2007)

Having the floor/ground flat helps stabilize the panels. I've used shims with floors that weren't completely level, but they usually have to be put back in place over time. 

If they're aren't going to be resting on a flat surface your definitely going to want to reinforce the base some how. Clamping panels together won't keep the panels from moving/flexing where they come together. You're going to want to reinforce it so that the bottom of the panel doesn't move.


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## GothicCandle (Mar 26, 2007)

Would this work, I think it would be difficult to use wood in my case because of both the weight, and the fact that it's not easy to build/take down. What if I use a frame of pvc pipe, connecting rectangles of about a foot wide together creating the walls and roof, would that work?


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## Eeeekim (Aug 14, 2009)

This thread is asking for a panels and walls "how-to" to go along with it.
also some info on who one has to talk to (like the fire department etc.) if your moving from a yard to a hall or school gym.


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