# Again with the wall panels!



## waldiddy

I want to get started building 4x8 panels framed with studs for a garage haunt, but in my head, I just can't figure out if they'll be stable enough. We're getting a lot of traffic in our home haunt and black sheets tacked to a PVC frame just ain't cutting it anymore.

Probably part of my problem is that I need to map out the garage and come up with a floor-plan. I'm assuming that if panels are arranged with several turns and rooms that they're far more stable than just being being assembled in a straight line. I also see some 'how-to's' online that mention using 2x4 studs across the top for stability. One thing I absolutely cannot do is drill into the concrete.

Another interesting thing I found was this site:

http://www.illusionator.com/plans.htm

They sell plans for using luan sheets tacked onto frames made from 2x2s and secured with zip ties. Sounds a tad flimsy to me, but what do I know. It sounds like it works well for them.


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## stagehand1975

At the pro huant that I help run, we use 4x8 panel made with 2x4s. And we have alot of them. We used to use bolts to put them together side by side and lots of bracing. We have managed to get away with drilling them into the floor for years. During the month some shifting may occur but has never been enough to shut down for repairs. We also pad hard corners and have been know to use a mattress attached to the wall to catch someone that has been scared enough to send them into the wall. When builing the wall you should use screws instead of nails. If you plan to store these walls, screws won't back out over time. Also use screws like deck mate as they don't break as easily.


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## Allen H

http://www.boopack.com/software.html
I really like the triangular grid system It is very stable when braced from above. It also helps to put carpet under the walls. It keeps them from sliding around.
I make my wall panels from 2x2s as opposed to 2x4s much lighter and easier to store.


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## DarkLore

For a trianguler grid system, do you use walls that have three sides? I'm interested in seeing a picture. Any examples?


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## Allen H

The name comes from the fact that you use 60 and 120 degree angles when building as opposed to 90 degree angles. It helps maximize floor space as well as really confuses patrons. Its easy to stay oriented with all 90 degree turns, much harder when they are 60 degrees.
Here is quick pic
http://www.mullicamanor.com/images/hfhh9.jpg
When designing a layout use isometric graph paper
http://www.printfreegraphpaper.com/gp/i-i-12.pdf
This style gives you great actor cubbys and neat hexagonal rooms.
JB Corns book has a ton of info on Triangular grid, its also available free here
http://www.nightmarepark.com/JBCornCDPage.html


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## Front Yard Fright

waldiddy said:


> I want to get started building 4x8 panels framed with studs for a garage haunt, but in my head, I just can't figure out if they'll be stable enough. We're getting a lot of traffic in our home haunt and black sheets tacked to a PVC frame just ain't cutting it anymore.
> 
> Probably part of my problem is that I need to map out the garage and come up with a floor-plan. I'm assuming that if panels are arranged with several turns and rooms that they're far more stable than just being being assembled in a straight line. I also see some 'how-to's' online that mention using 2x4 studs across the top for stability. One thing I absolutely cannot do is drill into the concrete.
> 
> Another interesting thing I found was this site:
> 
> http://www.illusionator.com/plans.htm
> 
> They sell plans for using luan sheets tacked onto frames made from 2x2s and secured with zip ties. Sounds a tad flimsy to me, but what do I know. It sounds like it works well for them.


I use wafferboard (very thin OSB) sheeting and 2x3s for my garage haunt. The wafferboard is quite thin, but it does its job. Making your pathway twist and turn not only adds to the stability of your walls, but it also makes your haunt seem a lot longer. You can easily double your haunt length by 50% by making your guests zig zag rather than walking in a straight line.

Also, the only bad thing with using the triangular grid system is that you lose a lot of space and when you've only got a small garage to work with, you want to make every inch of your space worthwhile IMO.

The way I plan my haunt is I first start with grid paper to get a good layout that has a good flow, and allows for my emergency exit and all that. Then I go into Google SketchUp and make everything in 3D that way I can account for the width of the 2x3s and waffer board to make sure that everything will fit the way I want it. You can save yourself a LOT of time by making it in SketchUp first as you can notice your errors before you even pick up a drill.

I had my haunt completely planned out and to the T months before construction started... Saved my self a ton of time!

If you have any more questions I'd me more than happy to help.

Good luck!
:jol:.


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## waldiddy

I've started mapping out a layout on a grid, and probably most of my panels will be double sided. Not necessarily a bad thing, I guess, but I don't see a way around that. But, most tutorials I've seen on the web just show 1 sided panels. Am I missing something?


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## Front Yard Fright

Some haunts choose to only cover one side because it's less expensive (Probably the mean reason.) and it takes a little more time with tear down and setup when your walls are double sided.

I personally double side all my walls just because it makes my scenes more realistic. What I do is I complete a full wall panel with one side of wood sheeting, put them all up, and go back and cover the other side when everything else is up.

Just make sure you keep track of the order in which you put the walls up because taking down the wrong side of plywood when taking the haunt down can cause you to not be able to reach the screw heads properly and you may end up having to take the other side off to take the wall down. (I speak from experience!)
.


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## Merlyn67

These panels are also known as Hollywood flats used by the movie industry and touring theatre groups. They do need back bracing and are usually bolted together. Do a search for Hollywood Flats and you will get plans on how to build them for free. Also how to brace them and prep them for painting. Hope this helps.


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## Allen H

Dont be afraid to cut windows and reach throughs in your wall panels. I like to have alot of windows in my show so actors can appear and dissapear. I also cut windows into the "deadspace" and put small sets or displays in them, Or I just put a curtain behind the window and let the audience think an actor will come through it.
Its good for an actor to have a presence in a room or hallway he technically cant get to, windows and reach through holes allow that.


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## stagehand1975

Another technique is to built theatrical flats. Similar to a Hollywood flat. Build a frame to a size that you like out of 1x4s laid flat. Use triangular pieces of plywood to hold it together on the back side and a couple center boards to keep it width. Then stretch and staple a muslin fabric around the face.

I have seen people use a watered down elmers glue painted on the to stiffen the fabric and then you can paint what ever you want on it. 

These are more effective when building a room but when done right looks like a real wall up close. I have even seen strips of the muslin fabric cut to cover the seams. 

Built triangular braces for back support that ate attached with removable hinge pins. This will help speed up set up and Tare down each year.

Us metial brackets or plywood brackets to join the panels side by side. 

At only 1 inch thick makes them easier to store. I would only use these in places that are sheltered from the rain and only in a room, not in you hallways. 

Buli


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## scarymovie

Wow panel board should be sturdy make sure you bolt them down with screw or something like that you dont want them coming down on you? You might not know when someone will bump into one you dont want the boards falling and beeing sued!


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## Dungeon Keeper

One thing we do to help make our walls a more sturdy and give a little more atmosphere is using arches that span hallways. They are an arched piece with a notch cut out on either end the width of our walls. Simply slide over the top edge of 2 walls to span the gap, really sturdies them up and gives something to drape camo netting or cloth over to make a roof over the haunt.


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## Dark Carver

Dungeon Keeper said:


> One thing we do to help make our walls a more sturdy and give a little more atmosphere is using arches that span hallways. They are an arched piece with a notch cut out on either end the width of our walls. Simply slide over the top edge of 2 walls to span the gap, really sturdies them up and gives something to drape camo netting or cloth over to make a roof over the haunt.


I am doing a cave theme this year and I need to know how to make those arches. What are they made out of?


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## waldiddy

Hmm, after reading all this, I'm kinda leaning towards wall panels made from some type of cheap plywood or perhaps cardboard within a 4x8'ish frame of 1x2s. These panels are bolted together from the sides as necessary, either side to side or perpendicular for corners. 

In addition to using beams across the top to stabilize these, I can also use ceiling hooks & rope for additional strength. 

So ... in your opinion about what I'm describing, does this sound viable? I won't have anything bolted to the floor. In my garage, that's not an option.


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## stagehand1975

I would use thin plywood before I used the cardboard. More durability. Plus in the pro haunt world the use of cardboard wouldn't pass most inspections. Plus it is easier to screw prop to the plywood wall.


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## Darkmaster

You can cut arches into 1" thick stryfoam sheets. I made my openings with 2x2 frames and glued the styrofoam to that with silicone adhesive. Then cut individual pieces to frame in the arch to look like stone.
These are pictures of my tunnels and cave progress.


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## Dark Star

Darkmaster said:


> You can cut arches into 1" thick stryfoam sheets. I made my openings with 2x2 frames and glued the styrofoam to that with silicone adhesive. Then cut individual pieces to frame in the arch to look like stone.
> These are pictures of my tunnels and cave progress.


That looks really nice, is that screen you have used overhead?


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## Toktorill

We build cheap charity haunts in unoccupied "please return as found" mall tenancies, so this topic really hits home !!! In the past I've had success in making very cheap, very stable, walls and doors. I have framed in the walls with 1x2's (or 2x4's sliced into 1x2's, if cheaper), covered with large cardboard sheets from fridge or sofa boxes. A trip to the local furniture store usually fills the grand caravan. 

As for floor solidity: I used 4'x4' squares of 1/4" plywood, lying on the floor, where the patrons will be walking- and weighted down on any sections of plywood that will be out of bounds/ under wall, etc. Screwing a 2x4 block onto the plywood (with the head of the screw flush underneath) gives something solid on the floor to attach the wall to.

I have a little more door/wall structure info in my "labyrinth door system" howto, which also has a neat way to increase the perceived size of your area. Happy Haunting!


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## LockportHauntedCave

*4 x 8 Wall Sections*

At The Castle of Terror of Western New York, We had both double and single sided 4 x 8 Wall Sections. We used metal braces screwed in at the bottom of the walls and 2 x 4's over head for bracing. We also had a central hallway ruining the length of the haunt. Most rooms had a door into the central hallway. It served as a way for actors to move around the house without disturbing other rooms and as a fire exit. It also blocked the sound from one side to the other. We would put up corrugated card board from the wall to the ceiling and paint it black with fire retarding paint. We were a larger haunt and used an unused store at a mall. Even with the metal braces I scared two young guys into the wall and they popped the screws and pushed the wall out at the bottom and on hands and knees started crawling into the next room through the open wall. It may have been when I turned the Jig Saw on. The Castle of Terror was for charity.

Being in the Cave is a whole different environment.

Cave Pictures:
http://lockportcave.com/coppermine/index.php

http://lockportcave.com/

Castle of Terror Videos:










Cave Video:


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## waldiddy

Well, I'm putting up my wall panels and just wanted to update everyone with how they're holding up. Of course, it's very early and the real acid test will be 10/31 but ... so far they're doing fine.

My garage is 8 and a half feet tall and I'm making panels that are 7' x 4'. I'm using 1x2s and am stapling cardboard to one side. For several panels, I may end up covering the back side as well. 

To secure the panels, they're each tied to 2 hooks coming from the ceiling, and those hooks are screwed into studs, not just the popcorn tile stuff. Each panel is also screwed into the flat side of a 2x4 resting on the floor. Plus, panels that are side by side are attached via 2 zip ties. I'll also brace perpendicular tiles via corner braces on the tops. 

I'm having a hard time finding big boxes, but a few furniture stores told me this weekend that I need to check in during the week. So, at the moment, most of panels have faces that are 3 or more boxes. 

The panels all seem pretty secure, despite a somewhat flimsy appearance. So far, I find them to be much more stable than what I've used the past couple of years: pvc 'walls' draped with black sheets or plastic. 

So, what you can take away from all this: if you wanna use 1x2s frames with a cardboard face, you'll do fine.


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