# PVC Size for body forms



## caia326 (Sep 17, 2014)

I am building my first haunt this year and I need to make a few body forms for various props. I know that I want to make them out of PVC because its cheap and easy to work with and it seems like what most people use. The only question I can't seem to find a good answer to is what size to use?

The super cheap stuff from Home Depot and Lowe's seems to run around 1" to 1-1/2". Is that big enough? I'd love to know what you guys are using and why you use that size!


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## RoxyBlue (Oct 6, 2008)

We've used pipe from 1/2" to 1" in diameter. I think you'll find you don't need to go above 1" for a body form. It's quite sturdy.


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## jdubbya (Nov 6, 2005)

I use one inch and never had a problem with it. Rigid enough and makes a solid armature.


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## caia326 (Sep 17, 2014)

RoxyBlue said:


> We've used pipe from 1/2" to 1" in diameter. I think you'll find you don't need to go above 1" for a body form. It's quite sturdy.


Thanks RoxyBlue! When I was looking at it I couldn't see using anything bigger than that but I figured I'd ask the experts before I committed to buying anything.


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## caia326 (Sep 17, 2014)

jdubbya said:


> I use one inch and never had a problem with it. Rigid enough and makes a solid armature.


Those look awesome jdubbya! Where do you get the joints?


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## Bone Dancer (Oct 7, 2005)

Unless you making something really big, say more then 8ft, one inch pvc is just fine. 
With the three witches I made that have long dresses and so no feet showing, I uses a single 1 1/2 inch pvc pipe for the main truck and then used 1/2 for the arms an neck. I mount them on a small steel fence post ( 30" ) that fits inside the pipe.
But the general answer is one inch pvc will make strong body frames.
As far as fitting go, any Home Depot or Lowe's, ect. will have all the different fitting you might need. Unless for some reason you need the arms to move or be at a different angle then 90 or 45 degrees, you can use the fittings shown in Caia326's witches, but they are not cheap. For cheap possible arms or legs, drill a small hole at the ends of the two pipes for a zip tie. Fold up a coat hanger two or three times an put it inside the ends of the pipe. Then connect the the two end with the zip tie to hold them together and the wire inside will let you move the arms or legs to the shape you want and hold it there. If the arms or legs have to hold some more weight, just use stiffer wire (9 gauge solid cloth line wire, aluminum).


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## jdubbya (Nov 6, 2005)

caia326 said:


> Those look awesome jdubbya! Where do you get the joints?


http://www.spiderhillpropworks.com/Spider-Joint_p_13.html


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

@ caia326

1) I use 1" schedule 40 PVC in the plumbing section. Home D. or Lowes will cut it down for you so you can fit it in your car. The guy in the dept. said PVC isn't used for plumbing anymore. They should label it the prop section.

2) Start simple. Basic examples in my youtube Playlist. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL51E3C7C372ADC008

3) "Life-Size PVC Prop Build Example "Emperor of Evil" for Halloween Yard Haunt" is my latest static prop using straights and standard connectors. It also shows CPVC hands. It's in the plumbing section. It's only like 1/2 dia and flexible in a long length that looks like a pole vault pole.

4) "Prop Scarecrow Jeepers Creepers-Style PVC Halloween Yard Haunt How-to" is 7ft + tall but only a cross. 1" worked fine.

5) The other vid that's a help is "Prop Grim Reaper PVC with CPVC Hands Halloween Yard Haunt How-to" But I had Halloween music in the background so youtube put that most inappropriate music. So turn off the sound. It's like a silent movie.

6) When measuring you have to account for the fitting of one piece of PVC into the other - that can drive you up the wall. Measure twice cut once.

7) I used a PVC cutter. From what I can recall it cuts 1" dia fine. If you have a workbench vice and a pipe cutter that works. But takes a while. Use a hacksaw only if you want to make your arm ache ;

8) Pressure-fitting without screws works fine. I usually screw in the 4-way connector to the neck, 'spine', and shoulders. I drill a small pilot hole first. I leave the other connections pressure-fit because it's easier to get a costume on first then slip the arms into the shoulders. Also easy if you have to twist the sections to tweak the pose.

9) Something else a first-time haunter has to remember. Too much prop-building = Addictive = Too much fun = Too many props = um where am I going to put all that!

10) Tip: Sterlitie 18-20gal containers are on sale after Halloween at Target and Meijer (regional)

@ jdubbya! I love the Witches and the hinged fittings!!! I have to stick to re-costuming old stuff instead of making new stuff (like Cedar Point amusement park repainting an existing coaster, turning it from stand-up to floorless, and renaming it after a French Louisiana Werewolf Rougarou because the coaster is over what could look like a swamp - if they can do it to that I can do it to my props ; ) Inspirational ... and I don't have room in the storage unit.


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## caia326 (Sep 17, 2014)

jdubbya said:


> http://www.spiderhillpropworks.com/Spider-Joint_p_13.html


@ jdubbya

Thanks! looks like they are out of stock right now so I think I'm going to try the heat and flatten method to make them move



Fright Zone said:


> @ caia326
> 
> 1) I use 1" schedule 40 PVC in the plumbing section. Home D. or Lowes will cut it down for you so you can fit it in your car. The guy in the dept. said PVC isn't used for plumbing anymore. They should label it the prop section.
> 
> ...


@ Fright Zone

Wow! Thanks for all the great tips! Is there a reason you use Schedule 40 instead of SDR21? The SDR21 seems to be a little cheaper. I agree that PVC cutters are the way to go. I've gone and gotten my self deep already, I've got a 40'L x 20' W area that I am using for the haunt and there will be 3 rooms total with different themes I'm trying to pull together.


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## Diabolik (Apr 19, 2007)

caia326 said:


> @ jdubbya
> 
> Thanks! looks like they are out of stock right now so I think I'm going to try the heat and flatten method to make them move.


Hi caiai326,

We literally shipped the last 2 we had this morning.  I am expecting 1500 joints here on Monday if you happen to change your mind.

Thanks,

Ryan


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## caia326 (Sep 17, 2014)

Diabolik said:


> Hi caiai326,
> 
> We literally shipped the last 2 we had this morning.  I am expecting 1500 joints here on Monday if you happen to change your mind.
> 
> ...


Sounds like ill be making an order first thing Monday Morning!


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

@caia326- I don't think it matters Schedule 40 vs SDR21. S40 was the standard Home Depot was selling. Every haunter seems to 'personalize' the basic DIY build which is rewarding. Good luck and you'll definitely have a good time building!


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## Diabolik (Apr 19, 2007)

One thing we have found with the thinner pipe is that sometimes it is hard to cut using a ratcheting PVC pipe cutter. It starts to flex and crunch before the cutter blade gets through it and you end up with a messy cut.


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## caia326 (Sep 17, 2014)

Diabolik said:


> One thing we have found with the thinner pipe is that sometimes it is hard to cut using a ratcheting PVC pipe cutter. It starts to flex and crunch before the cutter blade gets through it and you end up with a messy cut.


I found this out last night. I bought some 1" SDR21 to make a test run at it and it wanted to flex a lot when using the ratcheting cutters. I found that if I rocked the cutters front to back when it was flexing it would get me just enough to get to the next ratchet point.


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

That's good to know. I was guessing it might be too thin. Regular Schedule 40 is solid. Let us know how it is to work with and how it holds up.


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