# Prop control so far



## propmastertucson (May 20, 2007)

I have been working on a new set up for this year. It will all be controlled via computer and the VSA software. I needed to construct a control center that could be move from my workshop to the front yard.

First I started collecting the needed computer hardware as well as the controlled boards. Then I designed a cabinet to houses the PC, and sound system. Got that put together and started to do the internal wiring.

So here are a few shot of where I am. Please let me know what you think.

PMT

P1010076-1.jpg picture by pmtucson - Photobucket

P1010075-1.jpg picture by pmtucson - Photobucket

P1010074-1.jpg picture by pmtucson - Photobucket

P1010073-1.jpg picture by pmtucson - Photobucket

P1010072-1.jpg picture by pmtucson - Photobucket

P1010070-1.jpg picture by pmtucson - Photobucket


----------



## TwistedDementia (May 2, 2007)

I'm thinking it's looking very good. Boy I wish I had time to build a cabinet that nice.


----------



## propmastertucson (May 20, 2007)

The cabinet was the easy part.


----------



## propmastertucson (May 20, 2007)

Sorry missed one.

P1010069-1.jpg picture by pmtucson - Photobucket


----------



## gadget-evilusions (Jan 26, 2007)

Looks nice. What kind of connectors are you using there, the black, white, red, purple, and green ones, and what are you using them for? Just curious. Looks good though, post some more pictures when you get it done.


----------



## propmastertucson (May 20, 2007)

The multi colored plug that you see are banana plugs. They are going to be connected to the snakes that will carry all of the power to the lights and props. The colors of Red, Black, White & Green will all be hot lines. The Purple will be the neutral lines.

Each row of plugs R,B,W,G connects to a 74kit card.


----------



## tonguesandwich (Oct 13, 2006)

Thats really nice so far.... I want to do the same but will need to wait a year. Need to make some statics first...never enough time!


----------



## propmastertucson (May 20, 2007)

Here is an update. The system runs off of a 220 circuit that is split into two 110 circuits. The power is divided to balance any load that may be needed.

P1010077-1.jpg picture by pmtucson - Photobucket

P1010078-1.jpg picture by pmtucson - Photobucket

P1010079-1.jpg picture by pmtucson - Photobucket

P1010080-1.jpg picture by pmtucson - Photobucket

P1010081-1.jpg picture by pmtucson - Photobucket

P1010082-1.jpg picture by pmtucson - Photobucket

Let me know what you think.

PMT


----------



## TwistedDementia (May 2, 2007)

Look at al those wood working tools... WHOO HOO!


----------



## Spookineer (Aug 20, 2006)

Nice work PM, good design and room for expansion. Wish I had thought of that with mine...


----------



## propmastertucson (May 20, 2007)

Thanks for all of the help and all of the kind words.
PMT


----------



## propmastertucson (May 20, 2007)

I did added switch (2) for the 74 cards, I found that when the computer powers up that it turned on all of the card relays. Better safe than sorry.


----------



## propmastertucson (May 20, 2007)

A quick update. I found that the 74 kit cards activate when the computer boots up. I did not know that this would happen when I put the wiring into the control center. So I went back and added a (main power to the card) switch for the cards.

If anyone knows how to stop this please chime in and solve the problem for myself and everyone else who might want to use the 74 cards.


----------



## propmastertucson (May 20, 2007)

Ok I have started to build the "snakes" to power (turn on/off)the props & lights. I will post pic's soon.

PMT


----------



## propmastertucson (May 20, 2007)

*Snakes*

Time for an update.

I just completed my 2nd snake for my control center. What you see in the
photos is the steps from start to complication.

#1 build a receptacle box. This on will hold either 6 outlets or 6
switches. This one will have 3 of each, 3 outlets and 3 dimmer switches.

#2 install buss bar.

#3 wire in switches and outlets. For this I have the switch running one
side of the outlet and the other side is controlled from the K74 card.

#4 Install the top of the box and place the switches and outlets,
install the cover plates.

#5 Solder on the banana plugs (color coded) to plug into the control
center.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/pmtucson/P1010002-1.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/pmtucson/P1010003-1.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/pmtucson/P1010004-2.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/pmtucson/P1010005.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/pmtucson/P1010006-1.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/pmtucson/P1010007-2.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/pmtucson/P1010008.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/pmtucson/P1010009.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/pmtucson/P1010010.jpg

PMT


----------



## propmastertucson (May 20, 2007)

*change the snake*

Had to make a change to one of my snakes. I have discovered that the touch dimmer switches cannot be turned on/off using a k74 card. Once the power drops to the dimmer it resets (I think) to the lowest power setting.

What I want is to dim the floodlights for a grim mood. So the touch style will not work with my set up, had to install the rotary type and they work just fine.


----------



## propmastertucson (May 20, 2007)

Snake update

Well I have completed 3 snakes for my control system.

#1 is 25' in length with 7 controllable plugs the red plugs run on the
same controller.
#2 is 50' in length with 3 controllable plugs and 3 dimmer controlled plugs.
#3 is 75' in length with 6 controllable plugs and 1 dimmer that will run
2 plugs.

The last snake that is to be built will be for some overhead lights that
will run off 3 separate power lines so that I can blink the lights on
and off.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/pmtucson/P1010015.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b121/pmtucson/P1010016.jpg

PMT


----------



## thedudedrummer (Jul 25, 2007)

awesome work! Cant wait to see how this all fits into your haunt


----------



## Dr Morbius (Sep 21, 2004)

I'm bumping this because I'm building a similar cabinet (although not as pretty) this year as a winter project. My question is, what gauge wire are you using on that spool? Also, are the dimmers just manually preset or are you using DMX to vary the dimming via VSA? Love your cabinet BTW.


----------



## CraigInPA (Sep 28, 2007)

I recognize the Kenwood home theatre unit you're using for an amplifier. That thing gets toasty hot when it's on at full volume for a few hours. Make sure you pull the drawer out when it's in use, otherwise you'll build up a lot of heat in your cabinet.

Beautiful work. Great looking shop, too!


----------



## Dr Morbius (Sep 21, 2004)

Ha! I have a Kenwood home theater I was gonna put in my consol too..thanks for the advice!


----------



## Dr Morbius (Sep 21, 2004)

propmastertucson said:


> Had to make a change to one of my snakes. I have discovered that the touch dimmer switches cannot be turned on/off using a k74 card. Once the power drops to the dimmer it resets (I think) to the lowest power setting.
> 
> What I want is to dim the floodlights for a grim mood. So the touch style will not work with my set up, had to install the rotary type and they work just fine.


Thanks to this thread, I'm building a similar "gangbox" for my lighting outlets, but I'm going to hook up servos to the rotary dimmers so VSA can control the dimming/fading of the lighting...something touch dimmers can't do. I'd use DMX but it's too damn expensive for me right now.


----------

