# Cemetery Entrance Columns



## TheOneAndOnlyKelly (May 7, 2009)

I have gotten a number of people on this and other Halloween forums requesting that I assemble my Entrance Column notes and pictures into a full tutorial. So therefore I am caving under pressure and present to you said tutorial.

Enjoy!


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## TheOneAndOnlyKelly (May 7, 2009)

*Step 1: In which we discuss motives and layout the Initial Idea*

This wasn't my first attempt at entrance columns to my haunted yard. I had tried years ago to do this using a very
rude frame decked with the thin, pink foam insulation. The result was very light and blow over quite frequently. In frustration,
I dismantled said columns long before Halloween.

In the summer of 2010, I happened along a stash of scrap wood, rescued from the trash of the construction of a couple of houses in my
neighborhood. In my hubris, I conceived of the notion of trying the column idea again. I love the look of stone walls and brick walls, 
and have seen several others attempts at duplicating that look. They always left me cold. Not that they did a bad job, but you could always
tell that there was something fake about it.

If you know anything about me, I'm a bit of a perfectionist. And cheap. Those two traits don't tend to play well together, but I conceived of
a notion that would satisfy my ambition. If I could pull it off...










Here is the initial diagram of my design. I would build a base frame, 
and then create and attach paper mache stones to that frame. This could be considered an additive technique of sculpting, adding materials, versus
the technique I've seen before, which would be subtractive, ie removing material. Instead of carving foam to look like stone, I would make the
stones myself. Little did I realize the work this would involve.


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## TheOneAndOnlyKelly (May 7, 2009)

*Step 2: In which a framework is formed as the skeleton*










First thing I needed was a wooden framework. I had lots of scrape wood, about the side of furring strips or so. Not everthing matched, width-wise,
but I adapted. I wanted the all the crossbars on a given face to be flush, so that when I attach the material for the sidings, it would present a smooth
surface.

The column was to be 5' tall. Initially I had decided on 4', but then I second guessed myself and change the height. In retrospect, 4' would have been fine, albeit not as impressive... Another constraint I added was that they had to fit through a standard set of doors. I had made an earlier project much too big, and as a consequence, it gets to live in the garage all summer and winter. These had to go to the basement. I wanted a maximum width of 24" when I was done, so I made the frame width 18" on each side, giving me 6" of wiggle room, or 3" per side.

I added cross beams about a third of the way down on each side with an exception of one side column. On that side, I left the bottom bar off, so that I could create a pop-out panel. The reasoning behind this was so that I could get inside of the column for whatever reason. Upon installing in the yard, I used the panel opening to place shims under the column, due to my yard not being level, but you could also install electrical outlets or wire the columns for lights, what have you.









_Here you can see my kids posing with one of the frames. They are 13 at the time of this photo (yes, twins)._









_Both frames completed_


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## TheOneAndOnlyKelly (May 7, 2009)

*Step 3: In which we clothe their naked frames*

Once the wooden frame is built, we need to give the columns a surface onto which we will be attaching our finished stones. I was lucky and I found very large sheets of corregated cardboard at Curbies. These probably were from appliances going into the afore mentioned new houses. Regardless of the source, they were a good find. I laid the frames on sawhorses and placed the cardboard over each side and stabled them down. I did not attempt to wrap the cardboard. That would have been a nightmare due to the sizes involved and cardboards reticance if folding how I want it to. Each side was cut out individually. Some of the sides had to have more than one piece, if the remnents did not fit perfectly.

An alternate choice could be foam insulation, MDF, particle board, etc. If you are concerned about water seepage, feel free to waterseal it before advancing to the next step. I figured that my water proofing would come from the stones themselves, with some extra measures taken to seal up the bottom.









_Column wrapped in cardboard_









_Both columns_


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## TheOneAndOnlyKelly (May 7, 2009)

*Step 4: In which we put a cap on their heads and shoes on their feet*

To give the columns a little class, I added bottom and top caps. I wanted these structures to be the maximum width desired, so that the stones would be beneath the shadow of the top cap. This is done by wrapping the top and bottom, flush with the top and bottom of the frame, with first 2x4 stock, then 1x4 stock. The ends of the outermost boards were nailed tightly to the adjoining board so that any gaps were minimized. Remember, this is scrap wood, so straight lines tended to be far and view between. Also, a bead of wood glue was added between the 2x and 1x stock, to further secure the bond.









_Columns with wooden tops and bottoms_









_Top cap detail_









_Top cap from a lower angle_

Notice I mentioned the the boards were flush with the frame. This left a big void at the time and bottom since the frame was hollow. On the bottom, this is not an issue, leave it be. On the top, I covered the surface with a piece of MDF, then took a hand-planer and beveled the edge. Counter sink all your nails and use the planer to smooth the surfaces as needed.

Since I was dealing with the MDF, it was time to consider the access panels. I cut two pieces of MDF, one per column, to fit the cavities. I added cabinet magnets to hold the doors to the frame and added a little turn-holder-thingy (I forget the name) to ensure it stays shut.









_Access panel_

Once you are happy with the surface, you will want a layer of paper mache to cover everything, to make it appear to be stone. Seams are bad here, so I used the Vivid paper towels, as they have no surface texture. When you do the bottom, get close to the bottom edge, but don't overlap. It will rip easily at that area.


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## TheOneAndOnlyKelly (May 7, 2009)

*Step 5: In which we introduce the column to the fence*

On my columns, they were intended to be part of the cemetery fence I had built. Each fence segmented ended with a 1" piece of PVC. To make the column work, I added another cross bar for the top connection, outside of the cardboard, and ran a long bolt through it. On the bottom, the PVC is simply screwed into the base.









_Attaching the fence post_









_Column with fence post_


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## TheOneAndOnlyKelly (May 7, 2009)

*Step 6: In which we become Masons and learn the secrets of the Illuminati*

This part can be started while still working on the frame, as it will take quite a bit of time. The stones that are use are, mostly, paper mache. Initially I tried to make them strictly out of paper mache, but that proved tricky at best. Be the crafty (cheap) crafter I am, I turned to a readily available source of stonish shaped materials. Food boxes.

We are very good at recycling in our house, so none of these had to actually get picked from the trash. I also persuaded coworkers and neighbors to help save these for me, as I would need a lot.

One of my criteria for the stones is that they could not pop out further than the base of the columns. Not all of them were naturally compliant with this. ThereforeI had to cut them down to a more managable size. Some of the larger boxes, such as the pop cases, I was able to get two or three stones out of. I also wanted "corner" pieces, that looked like they were larger stones embedded inside the column. This might have been overkilled, it certainly was more work.

Once the boxes where the right size, I roughened the shape somewhat by pushing in on sides, then paper mached over them about 3 coats. On some of them, I added some toilet paper soaked in the paste to add more texture. Get as many of them, in different sizes, as you can.









_Some of the stones being made_









_Some of the stonework in progress_

Once your stones are dry, you are ready to move on.


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## TheOneAndOnlyKelly (May 7, 2009)

*Step 7: In which we become brick layers and learn what frustration is.*

How's your puzzle skills? Good? You will need them. Beause no matter how well you tried, all your stones are not going to play nice together.

I use hot glue to attach the stones to the cardboard. The idea so that the stones overlap each other, like bricks in a building, so that the long part of the stone is over/under the seam between two other stones. If you've done legos, you've done this.

Because you didn't cut your lines perfectly straight, or the cardboard is warped, or the Moon is in the House of the Ram, the stones don't rest squarely on the cardboard. This means a lot more glue, and you standing there applying pressure like the little Dutch Boy with this finger in the ****. Remember that hot glue is HOT and you are not in that much of a hurry, don't burn yourself (like me).









_Ready to mount_









_Getting started_









_Almost done_

I will admit I cheated here. There were several gaps in the stones that I did not have the right size to fill and I wanted to get done. Availing myself to some scrap foam in my garage, I cut custom-size pieces, gave them some texture and used that instead. When all said and done, you can't tell. If I had the budget for it, I would use the blue foam for all the stones...









_Substituting foam_









_Finished attaching the "stones"_


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## TheOneAndOnlyKelly (May 7, 2009)

*Step 8: In which we mortar the stones*

One of the details I did to make the columns look truely like they are stone was that I mortared the joints. I made a batch of paper mache clay, using cellulose insulation that was not filtered down two the finest particles. This gave it a very coarse texture (and sped up the process). Next, with some help of whomever I could find, I stuffed the mortar between the joints, packing it in tight. I used my finger and other tools to finish the surface, so it was a smooth cove, but I left it crumbly in places.
The plus side is that when it was dry, it was almost the right color of mortar, but sadly, that was not meant to be.









_Mortaring of stones_









_Close up_

Once the mortar was dry (several days later), I applied a couple coats of exterior latex paint to weather proof. Actually, that's a lie. I got Dryloc water proofing, but exterior paint would work. Check your local big box hardware stores for "oops" paint. Mixed colors that someone desided not to buy. It's usually a LOT cheaper, and for this layer, who cares what it looks like.









_Weather-proofing_









_Close up_

Paint everything, so that no water can seep in. Especially the bottom surface and up inside from the bottom.

After this was dry, I painted the columns with the color paint that I actually wanted as my undercoat.


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## TheOneAndOnlyKelly (May 7, 2009)

*Step 9: In which we have fun with colors*

In the weeks before I was ready to start coloring the stone, I paid close attention to real stonework on my drives to and from work. Indiana stone is a nice variety of colors, leaning to the pinks and browns. Almost everything was speckled. If you look close at stone, they are not monochromatic (one colored) but vary between hues and shades, even within the same stone. This is what you need to emulate.

Using acrylic craft paints, I set out a pallete of colors, consisting of yellow, yellow ochre, red, brick red, orange, blue, white, browns and black. I used a couple different brushes, fairly wide (from a crafting point of view) and lots of water. I would mix loosely two or more colors, say brown, red and white, leaving lots of unmixed color, and paint several stones. If you need more paint, don't be afraid to mix in other colors at that time. I tried not to do too many adjacent stones with the same color.

To get a creative look too, use a water sprayer and spritz the stones so that the color runs somewhat. This gives the illusion of aging, as some minerals do leach out of stones over time.




























At this point you will think that your colors are a lot brighter than you might like. I used a air sprayer gun with a pink wash to mute the colors and to give everything a more consistant look. Experiment, you can always cover up and paint it again.









_Finished all the pretty painting, waiting on the ugly painting..._


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## TheOneAndOnlyKelly (May 7, 2009)

*Step 10: In which we unleash the forces of time upon our work*

Now that we have a nice, new set of columns, it's time to a crappy, old, decreipt set of columns. I do this using a wash of black paint and my spray water bottle. If you don't have a spray bottle, you can do what I did and dump the contents of your wife's Fabreeze into a jar (temporarily, of course), and rinse it out...

Spritz the surface of your work first. You want to have the surface wet so that the paint will spread in a natural manner. Using a paint brush, take your wash and generously paint on the black underneath the various surfaces, letting it run down. The water bottle will help it along, but a little goes a long way. You are not looking for something from the black lagoon, after all. It is easy to overwork this technique. If it is too thin, do over again. Too think, spritz. Watch the sun, quick drying can mess you up too. Fortunately for me that day, it was overcast (and cold!)









_Aging stones_









_My crap runneth over_









_Be liberal with your use of water..._









_If you thin the color too much, just add more. Don't be afraid._


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## TheOneAndOnlyKelly (May 7, 2009)

*Step 11: In which we age any hardware and be done*

Remember the fence post I had earlier? It is not immune to aging. You can add a wash of brown (burnt sienna), followed by a wash of dark orange to get the appearance of rust. You can even get the sample paints at the hardware store of an almost exact rust color.









_Added rust stains to the cemetery columns where the posts attach_









_Attached the rusty post to the column and rusted up the nut and the rest of the bolt_

Once you are happy, go ahead and put your your fence and columns, and then bask in the glow of a job well done!


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## RoxyBlue (Oct 6, 2008)

Beautifully done, Macabre! This is just an outstanding prop and the how-to equally so.

And I think that turn-holder-thingy is a wing nut


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## Bascombe (May 18, 2010)

That's some very nice work


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## TheOneAndOnlyKelly (May 7, 2009)

Not a wing nut, it has a specific name. I found the name a few weeks back when I was suggesting it for a coworker's daughter project, but forgot what it was, and now I can't find it on teh interwebz. I will look it up next time I'm at Ace Hardware...


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## GRP (Aug 18, 2009)

WOW! awsome job. The how to is great but nothing compared to the columns themself. Stick your chest and be proud of your work.


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## Joiseygal (Sep 3, 2008)

I love how you used boxes for the blocks! It looks great!


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## pensivepumpkin (Mar 27, 2011)

i love these columns- they are fantastic! the coloration is phenomenal, and the thought you put in to the stone designs... wow.

what about that fantastic sign? i totally want that! did you buy it, make it?


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## TheOneAndOnlyKelly (May 7, 2009)

I made it, but considered it outside the scope of this tutorial.


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## pensivepumpkin (Mar 27, 2011)

wow. is there something you can't do? *bows*


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## nightrideproductions (Oct 25, 2007)

Very nice job! Thanks for posting.


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## HalloweenZombie (Jul 22, 2007)

Wow! That paint job is very realistic. Some of the best faux stone work I've seen. Fantastic job!


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## remylass (Sep 18, 2008)

MacabreRob said:


> I made it, but considered it outside the scope of this tutorial.


You should do another tutorial about the sign. It is really great as well.


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## CreeepyCathy (Mar 28, 2009)

(okay, late to the party.  )

AWESOME!!!! love your columns!! yes, please tutorial on the sign...please.


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## tuck (Oct 27, 2007)

Awesome job! I too want to see how the sign was made. I'll be making the short drive to your house to drop off all my painting needs this year


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## TheOneAndOnlyKelly (May 7, 2009)

Be more than happy to add your stuff to my collection :jol:


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## Rahnefan (May 1, 2009)

This is soooo good. Very professional-looking.


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## DeathTouch (Sep 6, 2005)

That came out nice!


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## SuperCreep31 (Nov 22, 2009)

remylass said:


> You should do another tutorial about the sign. It is really great as well.


I agree completely.


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## STOLLOWEEN (Apr 13, 2008)

Those columns are really outstanding...great stone work.


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## Frighteners Entertainment (Jan 24, 2006)

real top notch job!


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## Bethene (Jan 19, 2008)

wow, those are gorgeous! fabulous job on those, and the detail, amazing!


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## jaege (Aug 23, 2009)

CreeepyCathy said:


> (okay, late to the party.  )
> 
> AWESOME!!!! love your columns!! yes, please tutorial on the sign...please.


I have to third that request about the sign. It looks fabulous with the pillars!!!


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## pensivepumpkin (Mar 27, 2011)

+1 on the sign. My initial love for the pillars are upthread, and every time I see them I wish mine looked that good. I'm hoping when I copy your sign that will help. : )


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## hauntedkimmy (May 31, 2011)

Wow! Great job! I love how you repurposed boxes for the stones! Very creative thinking!


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## [email protected] (Aug 25, 2012)

I'm set to finish my fence build within the next several days..... But I don't think I'll ever consider it "finished" until I have columns like these.


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## onemomspov (Sep 25, 2012)

Wow! This looks amazing!


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## ron_jon87 (Nov 19, 2012)

Thanks for posting. I am sooo 'borrowing' your idea!


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