# Simple Backpack-Mounted Stalkarounds



## CrazedLemming (Oct 18, 2011)

I think I about have this finished. I'll add more photos and videos as I gather them. Feel free to ask questions or let me know if things don't make sense.

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*
INTRODUCTION
*
These have been a huge hit anywhere I take them, so I figured I'd document the construction while I'm adding a couple new ones to the collection.

They aren't fancy, but they're really easy to make, and they scare the crap out of people. Plus I can build 4 or 5 for the same price as one store bought monster.
*
Lots of fun possibilities:* 
-Following people to creep them out.
-Wander down the street to bring people in. The TOTers will spot you from a long ways out and run up to see what's going on. And if you turn back to look at them, they run away.
-Sit in a chair pretending to be a prop. Standing up suddenly will scatter a crowd pretty well.
-Dancing around being goofy
-High fives...and really high fives



















*
THEORIES ON THE DESIGN *

I wanted a monster that was proportioned like a human but scaled up. The measurements I use here are based on what I've found feels/looks about right on people around 5'6"-6'. The monsters end up right around 8ft tall give or take a little.

The coats don't go to the ground because I don't want my monsters tripping, and I hate the look of full length robes on monsters. The tiny human legs look a little silly, but people don't really look at the legs when there are glowing eyes towering over them.

The skeleton uses cheap, readily available 3/4" and 1/2" PVC pipe. I've seen designs that use heavy material like 2" pipe or 2x4 boards and that's just not necessary.

*TABLE OF CONTENTS*

1. Supplies
2. Safety!
3. The Skeleton
4. Padding the Body
5. The Coat
6. The Arms and Sleeves
7. Random Tips
8. Photos and Videos

*
SUPPLIES
*
The pipe fitting counts might be off. I just buy big bags and keep grabbing parts until everything is stuck together.

*PARTS:*
- *Duct Tape*
- *ALICE Frame military backpack *(or other rigid external frame pack)
- *3/4" and 1/2" PVC Pipe* (I use a lot of pvc, so I grab a couple new pipes and work from a mix of that and whatever scraps I already have.)
- *3/4" Tees*
- *3/4" Elbows*
- *1/2" Elbows*
- *1/2" Tees*
- *3/4" to 1/2" Reducing Tees* x 4 (normal 3/4" tees can be substituted, but other changes need to be made)
- *Foam Pipe Insulation*
- *Hose clamps , SAE #36 / 1.75"-2.75"* x 4
-* Paint Stirring Sticks* (optional - Used as a spacer)
- *Small Quick Links* x 2
- *Foam, thick quilt batting, similar light-weight padding materials*
- *Cord/Rope* - Bonnie Craft Cord
- *Head and Hands* - I use cheap $30-$40 masks and rubber monster gloves. The trick is finding stuff that's oversized so the proportions look right.
- *Coat fabric* - 55"-60" wide x about 6 yards 
- *See-through fabric for the front* - about 2 yards
- *Sleeve Fabric* - 40"-45" wide x about 2 yards
- *Flat Black Paint*

*OPTIONAL:*
-*Lights for the eyes*
(Any simple setup with 2 LEDs and a battery pack will work)

*TOOLS:*
- Something to cut the PVC with
- Tape Measure
- Pencil, Marker, Etc
- Rubber Mallet (a regular hammer could shatter your pvc)
- Screwdriver to tighten the hose clamps
- Drill
- Scissors
- Sewing machine (doesn't need to be anything fancy)

*
!!!! SAFETY !!!!!
*
*PVC explodes if you mistreat it. *Be smarter than me; Use a rubber mallet to tap pieces together, and cut it with something that doesn't involve a spinning blade.

Here's what happens when a small chunk of pipe bounces into a miter saw after being cut:


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## CrazedLemming (Oct 18, 2011)

*THE SKELETON*

*Definition: *_Connectors_ - My connectors are PVC pipe cut just long enough to connect tee and elbow fittings without leaving a gap. Usually about 1.75" long but seems to vary a little with different fittings.

*Backbone:*
A. 3/4" PVC - 3ft long x 2 (Spines)
B. 3/4" Tees x 4
C. 3/4" Elbows x 2
D. 3/4" Connectors x 6

*Shoulders:*
A. 3/4" PVC - 10.5in long x 4
B. 3/4" PVC - 2.5in long x 2 (goes in the middle to space the spines wider)
C. 3/4" Connectors x 6
D. 3/4" Elbows x 4
E. 3/4" Tees x 4
F. _Choice:_ 3/4" Tees x 4 _ *OR*_ 3/4"-to-1/2" Reducing Tees x 4
G. Small Quick Links x 2 (found in the rope or chain section of the hardware store)

*Head:*
Your choice for Shoulders part F affects this one. If you used standard Tees, use 3/4" pipe. If you got the Reducing Tees, use 1/2" pipe.

A. Pipes x 4 (I use 10"-11" but use what works for your head)
B. Elbows x 4
C. Connectors x 2
*
Putting it together:* 
1. Cut all your pieces.

2. Build the Backbone, Shoulders, and Head assemblies separately. Tap them with a rubber mallet to seat the pipes all the way into the fittings. I try not to glue any of it unless necessary, because I like being able to twist parts to straighten everything when I'm done.

3. Combine the Backbone, Shoulders, and Head assemblies

4. Tie a Quick Link to each shoulder with the craft cord. Photo: Quick Link Attachment

*Skeleton Photos:*
Pile O' Pipes:
http://crazedlemming.com/StalkaboutTutorial/CutPipes.jpg

Skeleton Assembled:
http://crazedlemming.com/StalkaboutTutorial/SkeletonOnGround.jpg

Shoulders Closeups:
http://crazedlemming.com/StalkaboutTutorial/ShoulderView1.jpg
http://crazedlemming.com/StalkaboutTutorial/ShoulderView2.jpg
http://crazedlemming.com/StalkaboutTutorial/ShoulderView3.jpg

Skeleton next to backpack:
http://crazedlemming.com/StalkaboutTutorial/FrameAndSkeletonApart.jpg

*THE BACKPACK:*
This is an ALICE frame. They're not the greatest backpack in the world, but they're a solid foundation for these monsters and they were a military standard for years so there are a ton of them out there. They run about $25-40 for a set with the frame and straps. (I got REALLY lucky and picked up 8 for about $9 ea)

They're also the same frame used to make Ghostbuster proton packs except the serious Ghostbuster guys actually prefer a rarer early model.










*Attach the skeleton to the frame:* 
1. Tear strips of duct tape in half and wrap them around the frame rails where the hose clamps will hit the rails. This cuts down on some scraping and creaking 
Photo: TAPE LOCATIONS

*OPTIONAL BUT RECOMMENDED:* Tape some foam pipe insulation around the top bar of the frame as padding. I forgot to on the newest ones and ended up a little bruised across the back of my shoulders after an evening of running around in an unpadded monster.

2. Place the skeleton so the bottom Tees hook onto the bottom of the frame.

3. Put the hose clamps in place, but DON'T tighten yet
Photo: CLOSE UP OF FRAME & SKELETON CONNECTION

OPTIONAL. Add paint stir sticks between the skeleton and cross bar to tilt the skeleton back a little. I used 4 sticks in my latest monsters.

4. Make sure the skeleton is still seated against the bottom of the frame and tighten all the hose clamps. The spine pipes will bow a bit. You could probably adjust some of the pipe lengths to fix the bowing, but I have a feeling the tension helps stabilize the skeleton.

You should have something that looks like this:


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## CrazedLemming (Oct 18, 2011)

*Padding the Body
*
From here, you can start being creative, but I'll show how I've done mine.
*
Things to keep in mind:*
-The chest needs to stick out far enough to keep the monster's clothing off your face.
-The back needs to stick out a little to look more natural and hide the square backpack.
-Having the shoulders slope up towards the head looks more natural.

*Materials:*
-Foam (I buy scraps from a local upholstery shop for about $2/lb)
-Thick, Light-weight Polyester Batting
-Duct Tape

*My Procedure:*
1. Shove a piece of foam between the top pipes. It'll be adjusted later to support whatever mask I throw on it for a head.

2. Cut foam to the size of the shoulders with slots in the middle for the head pipes. Go thicker than you want and compress it in Step 3.

3. Tape the foam to the skeleton. You can shape the foam by putting more or less tension on the tape.

4. Build a chest piece from at least a couple layers of batting. I tape the top edge first. From there, I've formed the chest in several different ways. A couple have had foam stuffed under the chest to push it out. A couple have had the bottom edge folded under and taped to the spine. It's whatever works for the shape you want.

IMPORTANT: Leave enough room below the chest for your head. About 13" between the top of the backpack frame and the bottom of the chest batting seems to work.

5. Build the back similar to the chest but bring it down much farther.

6. Keep adding material and/or tape until you're happy with the shape.


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## CrazedLemming (Oct 18, 2011)

*THE COAT
*
You can get as elaborate as you want. I go with quick and dirty. Mine are roughly based on the old bog coat concept, but modified to make standard sized fabric fit the giant proportions. I use whatever material I can get cheap. The red one is even pieced together from a large thriftstore bedsheet.
*
Important Measurements:*
-The Sleeves need to be at least 42-45" tall and 96" wide across the shoulders to help hide your human arms.
-A Body width of about 34-36" seems to work well on average sized people

*Coat Fabric:*
55"-60" wide x 6-7 yards. NEEDS TO BE LIGHT-WEIGHT!
Watch the bargain racks.

*Front See-through Fabric:*
2 yards. 
I use a weird, slinky knit that I found on sale. It looks solid black, but the visibility is surprisingly good it when it's close to your face. To find one that will work, you'll probably just have to go to a store and look like a weirdo holding up different materials to your face...like I did.

*Rough Diagrams of How My Coats Go Together:*



















Still need to get photos of the actual coats ...

*Dressing The Monster:*
1. Drape the see-through material across the front and tape the corners over the shoulders.

2. Put the coat on.

3. Use safety pins to pin the coat and front fabric together to keep things from shifting too much.


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## CrazedLemming (Oct 18, 2011)

*The Arms and Sleeves*

The arms are made as separate parts and then hooked onto the quick links at the shoulders.

A. 1/2" PVC - 2ft long x 2 - Upper arms
B. 1/2" PVC - 3ft long x 2 - Forearms
C. 1/2" PVC - 4in long x 2 - Handles at back of Forearms
D. 1/2" Elbows x 2 - Connects handles 
E. 1/2" Tees x 2 - Wrists to keep the hands from spinning
F. Craft Cord
G. Padding of some kind to bulk up the arms
H. Black Paint
I. Fabric - 2 yards of cheap 45" wide broadcloth (anything around 42"-46" wide and lightweight should work)
J. Safety Pins

*Build the Arms:*
1. The upper arms (2ft pipes) get a hole about 1/2" from each end. The size is whatever bit I happen to grab that's a little bigger than the cord.

2. The forearms (3ft pipes) get a hole about 10" from one end.

3. Tie cord to each end of the upper arm so loops stick out of the pipe ends. (_See the photos below_)

4. Tie a piece of cord to one of the loops you just made.

5. Tie that cord to the forearm at the hole you drilled.

6. Add the elbow fittings and 4" pipe to the short end of the forearm to make the control handle

7. Add the tee fitting to the long end. Glue it for extra secure hands.

8. Paint the control handle black to make it disappear.

9. Bulk up the arms with foam, batting, or other lightweight materials

10. Add sleeves and hands. I sew the hands to the tee with heavy fishing cord to keep them from getting ripped off.
*
Sleeves:*
1. Cut the fabric down the middle to get two pieces about 20-22in wide x 2 yards long. Each piece will become one sleeve.

2. Fold one of the strips in half lengthwise so it's about 11in x 2yards

3. Sew the edges together about half the length of the fabric. The sewn end will cover the lower arm.

4. Slide the arm into the sleeve so the seam runs along the underside of the arm.

5. Then the unsewn part of the sleeve from the elbow up to the shoulder gets safety pinned shut

6. Attach your hands.

7. Fold the end of the sleeve into a cuff and safety pin the material into place.

I pin the cuff on the sides, top, and bottom so it'll hold its shape, and then I pin the top of the sleeve to the back of the hand so the sleeve doesn't fall back when the actor raises the arms. 
*
Attach the Arms:*
1. Simply pull the coat's sleeves back and hang the little cord loops on the quick links in the shoulders.

*Arm and Sleeve Photos: *


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## CrazedLemming (Oct 18, 2011)

*RANDOM TIPS
*
*These guys are top heavy. *To get in and out of the backpack without it falling over, always lift them by the shoulders or the spine poles above the frame*.
*
It probably wouldn't hurt to figure out where you usually grab the poles and wrap a little tape around them to get better grip while getting in and out of the costume.

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Wear black long sleeves and gloves under the costume to hide your human arms.

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ALWAYS HAVE SOMEONE AROUND TO HELP YOU IN AND OUT OF THE COSTUME

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If no one wants to be your assistant,* the suit can be put on and taken off without help, but it's not fun. 
*Option 1*: Place it on a big chair and slide in while seated. Stand up and adjust your straps.

*Option 2:* Try to wrestle your way into it while standing. Good luck.

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## CrazedLemming (Oct 18, 2011)

*PHOTO GALLERIES & VIDEOS*

Place holder post for dumping eyecandy

*Early Prototype Test:*





*2011 Parade:*













*2012 Parade:*


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## Lord Homicide (May 11, 2012)

Dude those things are awesome!


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## CrazedLemming (Oct 18, 2011)

This is the second year we've had the monsters out for the TOTers and had people coming around looking for them before they were even setup. A lot of people came by to see them two or three times. A few kids were terrified enough to declare, "I DON'T WANT CANDY!" when their parents tried to lead them up the driveway.

I'll try to get photos and videos from my uncle in the next week or so.
*
HOW-TO UPDATE:*
I've spotted a few problems and omissions that I'll fix soon.


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## bourno (Jan 21, 2006)

CrazedLemming said:


> -------------------------------------
> 
> If no one wants to be your assistant,[/B] the suit can be put on and taken off without help, but it's not fun.
> *Option 1*: Place it on a big chair and slide in while seated. Stand up and adjust your straps.
> ...




After seeing your post here, I finally put together my stalkaround parts the other day and became a 9' tall looking skeleton in cloak. Didn't have a giant sickle, so wasn't a reaper.

To get in by myself. Having the prop face planted on a pickup hood and then reaching up through the inside of the frame and through the straps to grab the posts to lift it up and down, worked well for me.

Thanks for the posts and videos of you guys in action.


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## HalloweenZombie (Jul 22, 2007)

Great tutorial! You make it look so easy!


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## JustJimAZ (Aug 19, 2010)

Thanks for sharing this!


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## goneferal (Sep 8, 2010)

Great tutorial. These are awesome!


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## kenkozpgh (Sep 5, 2011)

Great work. They're awesome. Putting this on my "to do" list for the winter.

Thanks


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