# Frankenstein, My Standalone, Talking, 3 Axis Skull Controller



## halstaff

I may have finally achieved my goal of coming up with a standalone, talking, 3 axis skull controller. I've been working for a couple of years to learn the electronics necessary to run my animated haunt but not without a lot of help from forum members. 
Otaku sparked my interest and really helped get me started. Fritz42_male introduced me to the Picaxe and was always their to help me through my setbacks as I tried to learn to program. hpropman's enthusiasm for the Picaxe as well as all his writing on the subject really helped me along. He also provided the basis for the program that I run in this controller. Scary Terry developed the initial jaw circuit and tstraub redid the layout that I eventually modified and used for this board. chilloutdoc from the Christmas forums challenged me to learn Eagle so that I could convert my ideas into circuit boards. Finally, all the other techies that chipped in with suggestions and ideas that improved on the designs I came up with. I pestered all of them with my beginner questions and they always were there to help out and provide advice.
So without this community to which I'm VERY grateful, I NEVER would have been able to get this done.















Here's the new and improved version -


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## pshort

Nice.


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## Dead Things

Brilliant Steve, all in one, standalone is absolutely what I want for my haunt. A question about the use of the power down. When the servos power down, they will be at a random setting, say T=170, N=80, R= 100. When the PIR re triggers, does the program resume at those same settings? With my witches, when I power down and restart the program, the heads whip around to the starting position.


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## halstaff

Pat, I have it set that they return to center.


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## tstraub

Cliff Clavin dropped off my Sparkfun order so I now have the 14M2 chip I have been waiting for. Between work, dads taxi service, and the 5 or 6 hours a day I waste just sleeping I don't know when I will have time to sit down and play with this board but I'm looking forward to it.


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## HomeyDaClown

Sweet design...

Isn't it fun playing in Eagle.

I agree that a servo return to home and power down between routines would be a good idea. It's good to remove power from the servos when they are done.


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## Death Master

Fantastic job Halstaff!


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## studiokraft

Wow, you really set the bar high for circuit design! My boards are just embarrassing. Looks like a great, efficient design, well done.


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## fritz42_male

Extremely good work Grasshopper, truly you are the master!

mfw nobody remembers Kung Fu


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## robp790

That is indeed a magnificent board! I look forward to being able to purchase one from you.


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## HomeyDaClown

fritz42_male said:


> Extremely good work Grasshopper, truly you are the master!
> 
> mfw nobody remembers Kung Fu


 Kwai Chang Caine ---

Master Po: What do you hear?
Caine: I hear the grasshopper.

But Master Halstaff is not blind, he can see clearly and put's his
Shaolin kung-fu skills to the test....it'd be hard to make kewl boards like this as it is.








​


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## kprimm

Nice work! Impressive. I'm sure you will get a lot of haunters wanting one. Love the idea of the servos coming back to center and removing power from them.


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## hpropman

Just is just what this forum is all about, I love when this happens! We teach each other and then take what we leaned and make it our own. Great job on the board!


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## Zombie-F

Well done! I too love the Picaxe chips. So cheap and very easy to use.


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## halstaff

For those looking to get started with the Picaxe chip and need the download cable, SparkFun is offering $10 off with a $50 purchase that expires on Sept. 8th. Use HereWeGo for the code. They also have the Picaxe chips so it shouldn't be hard to hit the $50 by just adding a few things.
https://www.sparkfun.com/search/results?term=picaxe
They also carry the jumpers - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9044


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## halstaff

The first board revision is in production. Hopefully I'll have them back in a week or so.


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## dpmey

That's cool. We would be interested in them. Not enough days on the calendar.


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## halstaff

I know time is getting short and I just found out the boards will be delayed. The site I order them from is closed for Mid-Autumn Festival until Monday. Can I take this holiday?


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## halstaff

The boards finally arrived and have been built and tested. I'm really pleased at how they came out and how fast I can now have a 3 axis skull up and running. Having everything on 1 board makes fitting it into an enclosure so much easier and cheaper. No more cabling of boards together to get all the features I need.


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## dpmey

Awesome, can they be purchased?


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## halstaff

I do have a few extra bare boards. Shoot me a pm and we can talk about it.


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## Jack Mac

Drooling just thinking about all the possibilities that these boards can create:smoking:. A quick question Steve, do these boards play ambient sound before being triggered?


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## halstaff

Jack Mac said:


> Drooling just thinking about all the possibilities that these boards can create:smoking:. A quick question Steve, do these boards play ambient sound before being triggered?


They could play ambient music as well. Should just have to make a change in the programming.


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## halstaff

Here's the newest revision of the board. Since I also use this board for talking heads that don't have 3 axis movement, I will run them on a single 5V supply. Now instead of having to run a wire between the two 5V supplies, you can just add a jumper.


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## The Halloween Lady

Awwww man that is so awesome! You scare me.


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## hauntedyards

I'll be watching this to see when they are available... 

Cheers!


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## halstaff

hauntedyards said:


> I'll be watching this to see when they are available...
> 
> Cheers!


I do have a few extras right now. Although several people have asked about them, no ones followed up.
PM me if you're interested and we can talk.


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## BigIron

I just recevied a Triaxial Skull Labs full skull kit so am looking to get some hints and tips on the build!

I'm a computer professional (I'm a systems programmer for big mainframe computers) but know very little about circuit design. I'm wanting a standalone 3-axis skull controller with sound. I've seen your Frankenstein board and would like to get something like that but actually building the board is out of my league. Any chance of getting something already built?


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## mkozik1

Steve - Is the only difference from the previous boards the jumper?

BigIron - If Steve does not have time to build one for you I can help you out. Let me know.


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## halstaff

Each new board seems to get tweaked a bit but the one change that may throw someone that's built an earlier version is that the audio board is now flipped around with the indicator lights towards the board.


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## mkozik1

Thanks Steve - Mine are green, from your last batch I think.


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## halstaff

For those looking to stock up on Picaxe chips, Bill from Aztec MCU Prototyping is closing up shop and has close out prices on his remaining inventory. Unfortunately, he's out of the 14M2's but still has many other chips, boards and download cables available. Contact him at www.aztecmcu.com


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## halstaff

If you're interested in the Tenda audio boards, MDFLY just got in a small shipment. Hurry while they still have them - http://www.mdfly.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_53&products_id=284&zenid=kr4mr5v9os22mfkm29hhr07ik6


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## niblique71

halstaff said:


> If you're interested in the Tenda audio boards, MDFLY just got in a small shipment. Hurry while they still have them - http://www.mdfly.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_53&products_id=284&zenid=kr4mr5v9os22mfkm29hhr07ik6


I just picked up 3 more of these MP3 boards, they are fantastic.. I already have extra memory chips from a failed Group buy so I'm all set there.

Do you have a few of your 3 axis boards left??? And did you post a parts list? I'm definitely interested in picking up 2 or 3 if they are still available. That pesky $20 programming cable is always what kept me from diving in to any picaxe project, but now that I've built several of Tyler's keybangers, I'm looking forward to delving into the talking skull realm. I've used servos for Airplanes and Remote control cars for years so this should be fun and interesting 

All of you PicAxe folks have really made this fun for those of us that just don't have the time to learn in a traditional manner. Thank you Halstaff, Tyler, Joe, And Pat (Did I miss anyone??) for all of your enthusiasm and time spent playing with and developing the various boards we haunters have found so awesome to use.


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## halstaff

Shoot me a pm regarding the boards. I do have a couple on hand and am ordering some more.


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## Technician of Terror

Dang, missed them again.


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## halstaff

Mdfly has 28 of the Tenda audio boards in stock. Get them while they have them.
http://www.mdfly.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_53&products_id=284&zenid=kr4mr5v9os22mfkm29hhr07ik6


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## Jack Is Back

Thanks, picked up 3 of the MicroSD versions since they were in stock too.


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## HavenHaunt

Thanks for the info. I'll pick some up right now since they are already down to 15 left.


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## Technician of Terror

halstaff said:


> Mdfly has 28 of the Tenda audio boards in stock. Get them while they have them.
> http://www.mdfly.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_53&products_id=284&zenid=kr4mr5v9os22mfkm29hhr07ik6


Thank you for the heads up, got a couple and there are only 2 left in stock.

Greg


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## mkozik1

Not any more  - Thanks Steve!!


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## halstaff

A sneak peek at the newly upgraded Frankenstein board that will make it's debut at the HauntX convention in Reno next month.










Once the program is loaded on the Picaxe chip, it won't require any computer to set up. I'll probably include the chip with the boards.


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## RoxyBlue

I like the little tribute to HauntForum you have on the board


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## Kevins411

Hello Halstaff- Any chance a guy could get his hands on your upgraded Frankenstein board?? I am attempting my first 3 axis talking skull. I would also like to say being a newbie to all this and having the knowledge base of this group is like winning the lottery. The wife is already annouyed with me from the non-stop reading I am doing. So a huge thank you for all this info!

Kev


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## halstaff

I will have some of the new updated boards soon. I just returned from teaching at HauntX but all my boards and other presentation materials have to take a very convoluted trip home. I won't have them back for a couple of weeks unfortunately. I'll let you know when I get them back and hope to post a new video showing off all the functions of the updated design.


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## curtis_1966

*Back again got a question*

Hey guys is there a way to get ambient sound before trigger, like adding a couple lines to the program or something. My build is coming along great thanks to you all.


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## wrasse

halstaff said:


> I will have some of the new updated boards soon. I just returned from teaching at HauntX but all my boards and other presentation materials have to take a very convoluted trip home. I won't have them back for a couple of weeks unfortunately. I'll let you know when I get them back and hope to post a new video showing off all the functions of the updated design.


Hope you will have lots of these available!
These will surely add a new dimension to any haunt


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## Kevins411

I agree wrasse- I think Halstaff is going to have a long line outside his door..


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## curtis_1966

Ok got the ambient sound deal almost figured out. Problem now is the Mdflys mp3 board wants to play the ($01) all the time. Like the ambient sound is ($01) an after trigger it's the sam ($01). Any Ideas? Here is what I have so far.........

start0:

for b1=1 to 60 'Delay for PIR to warm up
pause 1000
next b1

serout TENDA,4800, ($EF); 'STOP MP3 module 
pause 500
serout TENDA,4800, ($E7); 'Set MP3 volume
pause 500

LookAtInput:

if PIR_IN<>0 then Routine
serout TENDA,4800,($02) 'Start Background Track
pause 500

TESTIT:

Do : Loop Until PIR_IN=1 'PIR debounce code

Do
PIR_COUNT = PIR_COUNT + 1 * PIR_IN
Loop Until PIR_COUNT = 10
PIR_COUNT = 0

goto Routine

ROUTINE:

servo B.1,center 'comment out if using continuous 3 axis movement AND change 4th line in start1

servo B.2,center1 'comment out if using continuous 3 axis movement AND change 4th line in start2

servo B.3,center2 'comment out if using continuous 3 axis movement AND change 4th line in start3

resume 1 'comment out if using continuous 3 axis movement
resume 2 'comment out if using continuous 3 axis movement
resume 3 'comment out if using continuous 3 axis movement

serout TENDA,4800,($EF) 'Stop Background Track
pause 500

serout TENDA,4800,($01) 'Start playing first mp3

for b2=1 to 149 'Delay is length of audio track
pause 1000
next b2

serout TENDA,4800,($02) 'Start Background Track
pause 500

suspend 1 'comment out if using continuous 3 axis movement	
suspend 2 'comment out if using continuous 3 axis movement
suspend 3 'comment out if using continuous 3 axis movement
low B.1 'comment out if using continuous 3 axis movement
low B.2 'comment out if using continuous 3 axis movement
low B.3 'comment out if using continuous 3 axis movement

for time = 1 to 150 'is the number of seconds of retrigger delay
pause 2000 'Pause for 2 sec 
next time

goto TESTIT 'Return to PIR testing to restart process


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## halstaff

Try this. This was the solution worked out by another forum member.

serout TENDA,T4800,(0x01)

First, there needs to be a 'T' before the 4800. Second, we need to send commands using true hex (0x01 instead of $01). This would also be true for volume, play and pause commands.


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## curtis_1966

Ok thanks Steve, gonna try that. Also been doing some reading that this may work also.

serout TENDA,N4800,(1)

Not sure yet, it's been a long week for me gonna try both today sometime, I'll repost my findings when I find out.


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## Spooky1

Nice work on the new board. I really want to add a 3-axis talking skull to my haunt, so you may be hearing from me sometime in the future.


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## curtis_1966

Ok update on the ambient sound control. As it seems Steve's recommendation works but not works if that makes since. serout TENDA, T4800, (0x01) actually plays track 2 weird huh,
An .........,(0x02) plays track 1. Oh well if it works that way thats what I will do. Any other way won't work, at least what I was doing. Thanks Steve.


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## halstaff

What order did you load them on the card? You need to make sure you transfer track 1 first and then transfer track 2 onto the SD card.


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## JeffHaas

Or load them on the card and then use DriveSort.


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## Dead Things

This is a video of two of Halstaff's boards in action. The action starts at 4:40.


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## halstaff

Wow Pat, that came out great! Nice to see how others are using the board.


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## halstaff

Here's the link to the video showing the fully updated, stand alone Frankenstein controller -


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## bobzilla

This is so cool Steve!
I really like it, I just don't understand it :googly:


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## Abunai

Ho Lee Crap, Steve!

Great job!

I would love to get one of these for my own home haunt.
I have a three axis skull just waiting for this.

Also, how do I go about getting several of these for a Make and Take for the Colorado contingent of the Garage of Evil Network?


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## mkozik1

This is awesome Steve!! Good thing I have not completed the (2) original boards I got from you as I would rather have these!! Let me know when they become available.


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## Jack Mac

Your new boards are fantastic Steve! Your perseverance on trying to create the ultimate 3-axis controller has payed off in a big way. This board is amazing! Just let me know if these become available at some point.


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## Dead Things

Absolutely outstanding, Steve! The fact that all of the actions can be set so easily, so quickly is amazing. This would have saved me two years of experimentation to get the right mix. I really hope this helps people jump into the 3 axis realm.


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## Hellspawn

Steve,

I sent you a PM to get on a list for this board, great work!


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## lefty12

Been working on two of Halstaf's Frankenstein Boards I got the first one completed about a week ago, did a short video of it and send it to him,, he asked me to post it for others to see. SO! here is the link. This is the first one,, I had just plugged in everything,, programed the Picaxe and turned on the power. Some of the servos are a little jittery, but I hadn't made any adjustments yet.

VIDEO:


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## lefty12

OK Video 2 this shows the skull attached to the Frankenstein Board. 
I had only made some quick adjustments to the pots but,, well in my opinion its working pretty good! Thanks Steve,, Great controller!


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## Mav9709

Great job on the boards, I hope to be able to purchase one and set it up for my haunt this year!


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## mkozik1

Have two put together and programmed but have not connected yet. Hoping to do that this weekend. Tried to get my tstraub servo tester completed so I can get my limits, but Tayda sent me wrong parts with my order! Bag showed the right number but the part inside certainly was not a LCD display


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## halstaff

If you have a board and still need a Tenda audio board, Mdfly currently has them in stock but you better hurry as they're going fast - http://www.mdfly.com/products/sd-card-mp3-player-module-rs232-ttl.html


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## Mav9709

Thanks for the update on the Mdfly boards! I just placed an order for some for Tstraub's button boards and I sent you a PM to be placed on the list for your Frankenstein board.


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## BigIron

halstaff said:


> If you have a board and still need a Tenda audio board, Mdfly currently has them in stock but you better hurry as they're going fast - http://www.mdfly.com/products/sd-card-mp3-player-module-rs232-ttl.html


I finally pulled the trigger on a Hakko FX-888D soldering station and it arrived yesterday. I was wondering what kind/size of tip should I use. It came with a T18-D16 chisel tip, I think.

Also, what kind/size of solder? I'm looking at the Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 60/40 .031". Would this be suitable for PCBs?


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## JeffHaas

The default tip is a good general tip. I've used it for a couple of years on multiple projects. If you need something smaller for really detailed work you can look into one of the other options.

With solder, you want the type for electronics work - NOT the kind for plumbing work. Electronics suppliers will have the right type, not Home Depot! The Kester is a good choice.

The main thing with this is learning to solder correctly, which is a pretty easy skill to pick up. Having a good iron like the Hakko makes a big difference!


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## Batbuddy

I just joined the forum because I just finished building one of these new stand alone controllers and I couldn't be happier with the results. The picaxe portion of the board worked perfectly, but I had some trouble with the scary terry jaw portion of the board. Not anything Halstaff did wrong but I finally got it working. I was just wondering if anyone else had trouble with the jaw circuit.


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## halstaff

Getting the jaw circuit to function properly, especially the first time, can be a bit tricky. Here are the instructions Tyler put together for it -

1 Turn on the power and remove all audio source. This can be done by removing the L/R select shunts 
2 Turn the threshold adjustment clockwise until the circuit trips(the LED will light and the servo will move to the open position) 
3 Adjust the MAX adjust to your desired full open position. 
4 Slowly turn the threshold adjustment counter-clockwise until the circuit resets(LED will turn off and servo will move to the closed position) 
5 Adjust the Min adjustment to your desired full closed position. 
6 Add your audio source and adjust the gain as needed to make the circuit trip and reset with the audio

Also, the board is designed to have the jaw respond to the right track of the stereo audio with the left track going to the speakers. You can edit your audio using Audacity, a free program. Also, don't forget to add the jumper to JP1 (also labeled right).


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## Batbuddy

Awesome, thanks Steve.


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## master of disaster

Steve, 
New guy , but I have done a lot reading into your controller boards and you have done an awesome job and will be contacting you soon for a fist full of them. I am a Haunter from way back and have been looking for just said units for prop configurations. Store bought stuff is always cheap and shotty. Once I get past this probationary thing I think you will like Spike a 16' long 21' wingspan skeleton of a Dragon. I am a stair builder designer by trade and know many tricks to forming many different mediums. Well be talking to yah soon I hope, waiting on a deposit check on the next job, funny how the help gets payed, and I stay home broke. But better broke than in dept, I always say. Cuddos ,From Steve, or STP


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## Mav9709

I am very excited, I received the Frankenstein board, ordered and received my servos, ordered parts and building a 3-axis mech, but I am not sure what I need in terms of a programming cable for the pic chip. Is this something like the pic programmers sold on ebay or is it something everyone makes and uses with a bread board? Can this same cable be used to program the chips for the tstraub learning prop board?


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## halstaff

Mav9709 said:


> I am very excited, I received the Frankenstein board, ordered and received my servos, ordered parts and building a 3-axis mech, but I am not sure what I need in terms of a programming cable for the pic chip. Is this something like the pic programmers sold on ebay or is it something everyone makes and uses with a bread board? Can this same cable be used to program the chips for the tstraub learning prop board?


Here's the link to the programming cable - http://www.robotshop.com/en/picaxe-usb-stereo-download-cable.html Some people do make their own, in fact the July issue of Nuts and Volts had an article on how to do it. 
You need a different cable for the 4 channel button banger as it uses a different chip.


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## 65ragtop

I got my new Frankenstein board today, and Steve, youu've done it again. It's absolutely beautiful; I don't know where you have the boards made but it is top notch. Your dedication to the craft is unparallelled and the quality of your work is first rate. Thanks to you for your hard work and dedication.


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## graveghoul

This is just what I need! I have two 3-axis skulls that have never seen a Halloween. Where do I get a Frankenstein board? 

Thanks again!


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## BigIron

*Standoff Size?*

I have my new Frankenstein controller up and running but need to mount it to some type of enclosure. I see Halstaff uses plastic storage containers which would work for me, but what size of Standoff do I use?

Also, I purchased a PIR at Radio Shack but didn't buy a cable for it. Can I just use a female to female servo connector? Or is there something else? Also, should it be re-trig or N-Retrig?


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## halstaff

Just use a long enough standoff so there's a little "breathing room" between the solder joints and the container. I've even used heavy duty, double sided tape to attach the board to the box.
Yes, a servo cable will be fine and use the positive trigger option on the Frankenstein board.


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## BigIron

Steve, on the PIR there is a jumper for retrig or N-retrig. Which one should I be using?



halstaff said:


> Just use a long enough standoff so there's a little "breathing room" between the solder joints and the container. I've even used heavy duty, double sided tape to attach the board to the box.
> Yes, a servo cable will be fine and use the positive trigger option on the Frankenstein board.


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## halstaff

This is the header to use on the PIR's I use


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## curtis_1966

*Standoffs*

I'm using these standoffs.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nylon-Hex-Spacer-Screw-Nut-Assorted-Kit-Stand-off-/201123179431?

They work fine and you have many sizes to use


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## BigIron

*LED Voltage?*

My next question is what voltage (and size, 3mm, 5mm, ?) LEDs do I need for eyes? I've ordered some acrylic eyes from this place: http://www.schoepferseyes.com/products/glastic-realistic-round-eyes-acrylic in 24mm (only 8.61 for a pair).

I tried to study the schematic to determine voltage, but I just don't know enough yet.

I'd like to get pre-wired LEDs and it looks like LightHouse LEDs have them.


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## halstaff

BigIron said:


> My next question is what voltage (and size, 3mm, 5mm, ?) LEDs do I need for eyes? I've ordered some acrylic eyes from this place: http://www.schoepferseyes.com/products/glastic-realistic-round-eyes-acrylic in 24mm (only 8.61 for a pair).
> 
> I tried to study the schematic to determine voltage, but I just don't know enough yet.
> 
> I'd like to get pre-wired LEDs and it looks like LightHouse LEDs have them.


You'll want to get the LED's at the same voltage you're running to the servos, probably 5V or 6V. I've used eyes similar to the ones you reference and I think the 5mm fit inside them.


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## BigIron

The power supply is model YH-3018 and says:

OUTPUT: 12V ---- 2A
6V ---- 2A

From the power supply, Red is connected to X1's (+), black to X1's (-) and white to X2's (+). X2's (-) is empty. What voltage would that be?



halstaff said:


> You'll want to get the LED's at the same voltage you're running to the servos, probably 5V or 6V. I've used eyes similar to the ones you reference and I think the 5mm fit inside them.


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## halstaff

6V which feeds the row of 3 pin headers.


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## curtis_1966

Hey Halstaff, what kind or PIRs do you use? The ones I have are the cheap Adrino ones, seems to trip all the time.


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## halstaff

curtis_1966 said:


> Hey Halstaff, what kind or PIRs do you use? The ones I have are the cheap Adrino ones, seems to trip all the time.


The Parallax ones work great but I have also gotten them off Ebay.
I also put a short length of pvc on mine to focus the beam and reduce false triggers.


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## JeffHaas

> Hey Halstaff, what kind or PIRs do you use? The ones I have are the cheap Adrino ones, seems to trip all the time.


This drove me nuts when I first worked with PIRs. I would have one pointed at a blank wall, and even with it in a plastic tube so it could only see straight ahead, it would register that something was there for a brief second. Either it was seeing air currents, or it's cheap...or both.

The Parallax and the Chinese clone PIRs all work the same way. The only way to tame these things is to have a microcontroller (Picaxe, Arduino, EFX-Tek Prop 1, etc.) read it and then use the right code with them. You need to detect a warm body for a period of time before telling your prop to go.

If you need this code, just ask - there are a few slight variations of it used here and I we can get you a version that will work.


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## curtis_1966

From what I understand the signal from the PIR uses a logic level output so when high its only a 3.3v.

Yeah Jeff a code be nice, I'm using a Picaxe 14m2 with a HC-SR501 PIR, Data sheet here (http://www.mpja.com/download/31227sc.pdf) I appreciate your help


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## JeffHaas

Here's a basic Picaxe program to control a relay with a PIR. I've commented it pretty well. Look at the Check_PIR section for the code I was talking about.



Code:


; *******************************
;    Filename: 3-Stage Timer.bas 		
;    Date: 			
;    File Version: 	
;    Written by: Jeff Haas 		
;    Function: PIR and Relay template.  		
;    Last Revision: 8/26/2012
;    Target PICAXE: 08M	
; ******************************* 
;      Includes blinking LED for PIR warmup and easy to change values for prop timing.
;
;	Use with a PIR and a relay.

#picaxe 08M 			'Change this if using 08M2
#no_end


; Prop time values 
symbol WarmupTime = 20	  'Change this value for different PIR warmup time.  Time in seconds.
symbol PropWaitTime = 1	 'Pause before props go off.  Time in seconds.
symbol RelayRun = 1000	  'Change this for relay run time. 1000 = 1 second.
symbol ResetTime = 5000	 'Change this for reset time. 1000 = 1 second.

; Connections
symbol PIR = pin3  	     'Assigns pin3 to PIR.  Need to be a variable, not a constant!
symbol LED = 4     	     'Assigns pin4 to LED.
symbol RELAY = 1	 	 'Assigns pin1 to relay

; Timing bytes
symbol PIRWarmup = b0	   'Byte for tracking warmup loop
symbol TIMER = b1  	     'Byte for debounce timer
symbol PropWait = b2	    'Byte for PropWait timer

Init:
	
	for PIRWarmup = 1 to WarmupTime 	    'Define loop for PIR calibration time
		high LED 				   'Switch on LED
		pause 500 				  'Wait 0.5 seconds
		low LED 				    'Switch off LED
		pause 500 				  'Wait 0.5 seconds
	next PIRWarmup 				   'End of loop


Main: 

	TIMER = 0 		'Reset Timer byte
	
Check_PIR:	

	debug					'Open Debug window.  Slows down program!  Use to monitor how the PIR is responding.
 			
	pause 5				     'Brief pause on the checking loop
	TIMER = TIMER + 5 * PIR		 'Add 5 to byte 0 and multiply by value of PIR.  Movement = high
	if TIMER < 10 then Check_PIR	  '10 is a good value for this.

Prop_Trigger:

	for PropWait = 1 to PropWaitTime 	   'Pause before props go off.  If this needs to be zero, comment it out.
	pause 1000					  'Otherwise the processing time needed to skip over it keeps the code from
	next PropWait				     'feeling like it "instantly triggers".

	
'	high LED 			  ' When PIR spots movement, blink LED twice.  Optional feature for debugging.
'	pause 500  			' Uncomment this section to make this feature work.
'	low LED
'	pause 500
'	high LED
'	pause 500
'	low LED
	
	high RELAY 			 'When PIR spots movement, trigger RELAY
	pause RelayRun    		'Wait for the amount of time specified in RelayRun at top
	low RELAY   			'Turn relay off
	
		
	pause ResetTime		   'Reset time.  Allows PIR to settle down again, and gives you a pause in the show.  Change ResetTime if needed.

	goto Main


----------



## BigIron

Steve, with your Frankenstein board, is the head supposed to be in continuous motion even when not triggered?

I used the positive board option and connected the PIR to pin C7. When powered on, the head moves until the prop is triggered, then the voice/sound track is played.



halstaff said:


> The Parallax ones work great but I have also gotten them off Ebay.
> I also put a short length of pvc on mine to focus the beam and reduce false triggers.


----------



## halstaff

BigIron said:


> Steve, with your Frankenstein board, is the head supposed to be in continuous motion even when not triggered?
> 
> I used the positive board option and connected the PIR to pin C7. When powered on, the head moves until the prop is triggered, then the voice/sound track is played.


That is how we have it programmed. Feel free to adjust the programming to suit your needs but please share it if you do.


----------



## BigIron

Thanks Steve! Just wanting to make sure it's not something I screwed up! I won't have time to study Picaxe programming this year but certainly will after halloween and yes, I will absolutely share.



halstaff said:


> That is how we have it programmed. Feel free to adjust the programming to suit your needs but please share it if you do.


----------



## BigIron

Okay, all you Audacity gurus out there. I have a sound file imported into Audacity and have split the tracks. I make a selection and click on generate tone. I now have the proper 12khz tone but is there an easier way to change the length (increase or decrease) of the tone by dragging? I've searched the tutorials but can't seem to find it.


----------



## Dead Things

What I do is split the stereo track, put the slider over to the far right for right track, left for left track, generate a tone around 1000 hz on the full duration of the right track , (this is not too unpleasant of a tone). I then cut in silences using Ctrl+L. This seems to work the best for me.


----------



## curtis_1966

Hey thanks Jeff, just now saw it. I'll check it out tonight.


----------



## Hellspawn

For those who have been working with this board, is there a way to trigger it from a prop controller like T Straubs 4 button banger?

I was thinking about hooking up the trigger to one of the relays (with no power), similar to a foot pad, but I don't know what I need to do with the Frankenstein controller for that to work.. any ideas?


----------



## halstaff

If you're using a push button or step mat for the trigger, choose the positive trigger option and wire your trigger following the diagram below.


----------



## Hellspawn

halstaff said:


> If you're using a push button or step mat for the trigger, choose the positive trigger option and wire your trigger following the diagram below.


Thanks Steve!

If I am reading this correctly, I need to add a 1k resistor to the lead going to the 5v pin and a 10k resistor going to the neg pin.. do I have that correct?


----------



## Batbuddy

Thats Right. What you are basically doing is protecting the pin C.7 from a direct short to either 0V or 5V the resistors resist current flow so that you don't fry the picaxe chip. BTW I used to live in SLC, Where abouts are you?


----------



## Hellspawn

Batbuddy said:


> Thats Right. What you are basically doing is protecting the pin C.7 from a direct short to either 0V or 5V the resistors resist current flow so that you don't fry the picaxe chip. BTW I used to live in SLC, Where abouts are you?


South end of the valley, Herriman.

Most people don't know where it is, its directly west of Draper on the other side of the Valley, up against the Oquirh mountains

Thanks Batbuddy, I feel confident I can wire this up without frying something now.

I really appreciate the reply


----------



## BigIron

I have my Frankenstein board running but I'm having trouble getting each track to play. When triggered it plays the first track, but each subsequent retrigger it still only plays the first track. I have the board options set to 6 tracks (I have 6 audio files). I reformatted the SD card and copied my files over one by one but yet the other tracks don't play. And according to Drivesort, they are in the order I want. The files are named 001.mp3, 002.mp3, etc.

I don't have the 02 folder that contains the setup voice files, but I wouldn't think that matters.

What am I doing wrong?


----------



## BigIron

*Amplifier and Speaker Options*

My 3-axis pirate just couldn't get loud enough for people to hear it very well. I'm running one of Halstaff's Frankenstein boards and used Logitech S120 powered speakers with it. The S120's specs say 2.3 watts.

I'm looking at getting one of these amps, http://www.adafruit.com/products/17...bBvcRzRoRru0B2zKb-umrIXCvBjzMtGwHgaAhO88P8HAQ

and one of these speakers to go with it, http://www.adafruit.com/products/1732

Anyone see why this wouldn't work?


----------



## Hellspawn

I use cheap guitar amps (10.00 from pawn shops) or in a pinch, mid price-range computer speakers.

I really like guitar amps and if you look around, can find them pretty cheap, they don't need to be large either, the ones I use are the cheap "first act" ones they used to sell at Walmart, they are about 12'' x 12'' and put out more than enough volume.

id go that route before anything else personally.



BigIron said:


> My 3-axis pirate just couldn't get loud enough for people to hear it very well. I'm running one of Halstaff's Frankenstein boards and used Logitech S120 powered speakers with it. The S120's specs say 2.3 watts.
> 
> I'm looking at getting one of these amps, http://www.adafruit.com/products/17...bBvcRzRoRru0B2zKb-umrIXCvBjzMtGwHgaAhO88P8HAQ
> 
> and one of these speakers to go with it, http://www.adafruit.com/products/1732
> 
> Anyone see why this wouldn't work?


----------



## Batbuddy

I had the same problem with not being able to hear wee enough so I ended up using an old HiFi amp that I had kicking around. It worked great. You can take the output from the Frankenstein board and send it into any line level on any amplifier and it will work. The output on the Frankenstein headphone level. So all you need to do is make a custom cable or buy one and you can plug it into any amp. I plan to build my own amps for this very purpose because I want to power some bigger speakers so that the skull has a more booming voice. Here is my skull in action on Halloween.


----------



## halstaff

The new version of the Frankenstein software is now finished and can be found at http://www.haunthackers.com/frankenstein/driver.shtml
It's been completely rewritten and now allows for an ambient track and the ability to set the volume level along with other upgrades. Also included in the download is some additional documentation and a sample vocal track.
A BIG thank you to ScaryLane for all his work on the new program. He took every upgrade we discussed and found a way to fit it all in. His mad programming skills continue to impress me!
Hope it works out for everyone.


----------



## Abunai

Thank you, very much halstaff and ScaryLane. 
I've got 3 Frankenstein boards that I'll be working on for this year's haunt. 
This new software will be great.


----------



## halstaff

Abunai said:


> Thank you, very much halstaff and ScaryLane.
> I've got 3 Frankenstein boards that I'll be working on for this year's haunt.
> This new software will be great.


Please post some video when you get them finished. We'd love to see how people are using the boards in their haunts!


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## djsiuk

Hi. Can we purchase the 3 axis pcb?

Kind Regards Si


----------



## halstaff

djsiuk said:


> Hi. Can we purchase the 3 axis pcb?
> 
> Kind Regards Si


Send me a pm and we can work it out.


----------



## grumpy2076

*intresded*

i would be very intrested in some of these boards, were can i get them and how much thanks .


----------



## halstaff

grumpy2076 said:


> i would be very intrested in some of these boards, were can i get them and how much thanks .


Send me a pm and we can discuss how to get them to you.


----------



## scampa123

*Power supplies?*

What are the amp ratings on the required power supplies for the board?

12v ?amp...
5v ?amp..,

The links in the parts list are no longer valid and do not provide the amp details. I want to make sure I get something with enough power to run the 3axis setup.

Also, do we need both a 12v and a 5v power supply or is it either/or? I noticed in one of Halstaffs postings that he says he is only using a 5v for a setup without 3axis...So I guess I'm wondering if I'd only need the 12v...If you look closely in his demo video it looks like only 1 power wire is connected...

Any help would be appreciated!!

Thank you!


----------



## halstaff

scampa123 said:


> What are the amp ratings on the required power supplies for the board?
> 
> 12v ?amp...
> 5v ?amp..,
> 
> The links in the parts list are no longer valid and do not provide the amp details. I want to make sure I get something with enough power to run the 3axis setup.
> 
> Also, do we need both a 12v and a 5v power supply or is it either/or? I noticed in one of Halstaffs postings that he says he is only using a 5v for a setup without 3axis...So I guess I'm wondering if I'd only need the 12v...If you look closely in his demo video it looks like only 1 power wire is connected...
> 
> Any help would be appreciated!!
> 
> Thank you!


It is important to run separate power supplies to the servos and to the controller. Trying to power the board on a single power supply can cause jitter in the servos.
More amps is always better. I use a power supply that includes both a 12V, 2A and 5V, 2A line. Here's is the link to the ones I just purchased - http://www.ebay.com/itm/161370343615?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
If you are using 2 separate power supplies, you could get by with less amps on the 12V line but I would use a 5V supply with at least 2A as that is what powers the servos.


----------



## sreynolds

Hey halstaff what do you use for an enclosure for your controller?


----------



## halstaff

sreynolds said:


> Hey halstaff what do you use for an enclosure for your controller?


Since my props are used in my home haunt and I am very careful with them, I find that the plastic food containers work great. They come in a variety of sizes and they are easy to find. I used to get them from the kitchen but my wife got tired of always being out of them. She now buys them for me and it doesn't even come out of my haunt budget!
If I was putting the controllers in a pro haunt or even a home haunt where they were subject to more abuse, I would go with a purpose built enclosure which is more rugged. They are more expensive of course but necessary if you need the extra protection.


----------



## 69-cat

With my Haunt, my stuff is outside for days before Halloween so I do have my boards in a project box but that is still water tight so I just use zip lock freezer bags (the cheaper ones) to protect the boxes, power packs and the PIR sensors from the weather.
Dave


----------



## FistJr

*Kudos to Halstaff and Frankenstein!*

Hi all, I just wanted to give Halstaff a shout-out for his easy-to-use Frankenstein controller. My 13-year old daughter had an "independent study" project in school where, for two hours a week for 6 weeks, the kids could make whatever type of project they wanted to make. In a decision that warmed her father's heart, she chose to make a comedy routine talking to an animated talking skull! The skull her dad provided (made from the MonsterGuts kit), but it was up to her to make the controller and implement the routine.

She went with Halstaff's Frankenstein controller for its ease of design and use. While her teachers freaked out when she first came to class with a soldering iron and a bag of components (thinking this was an impossible task), the board was very clearly labeled and, with the help of the final board picture, she was able to populate the board and solder in the components. Then all she needed to do was connect it to the skull, calibrate it using the built-in calibration voice prompts, (so easy!) and she was all set to go. It was a great project and she loved it. To finish it off, we added a wireless trigger to the board so that she could say her lines, click the wireless controller in her pocket, and then the skull would give a wise-guy response to her. The track sequencing setup of Frankenstein made it simple to have 8 sequential responses to her "routine." The class (and 
teachers!) were blown away.

Thank you Halstaff for all of the time and energy you put into designing the Frankenstein board, and for your generosity in making it available to the haunt (and junior high!) community.


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## hpropman

Do you have a video of your daughters routine we would love to see it!! Great job!!


----------



## Rick

What size does the SD card need to be (2GB)? It does not specify in the parts list.


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## halstaff

I use whatever I have on hand which are usually 4GB.


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## viccez

Thank you Halstaff for the Frankenstein Board! This is my greater. He tells short stories before Trick or treaters enter the walk through. This year the audio problem is fixed.


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## sreynolds

halstaff said:


> It is important to run separate power supplies to the servos and to the controller. Trying to power the board on a single power supply can cause jitter in the servos.
> More amps is always better. I use a power supply that includes both a 12V, 2A and 5V, 2A line. Here's is the link to the ones I just purchased - http://www.ebay.com/itm/161370343615?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> If you are using 2 separate power supplies, you could get by with less amps on the 12V line but I would use a 5V supply with at least 2A as that is what powers the servos.


Hey halstaff how did u wire the power supply to take advantage of the 12v and the 5v? Do u have a pic of it?


----------



## Thisaintmayberry

*Anybody use an ATX power supply with this board?*

I have a bunch of ATX power supplies that provide both 12vdc and 5vdc outputs, with tons of amps. Has anybody used one of these to power Halstaff's Frankenstein board? On paper, it seems like a cheap and easy solution. BTW, MPFLY is currently out of the MP3 boards but says they'll have more in next week.


----------



## Thisaintmayberry

*And Homey's gone?*

Went to the Triaxial Skull Labs website to order my skull kit and saw the store was closed. Did some research here and found the thread on Homey . I've been off the forums for awhile and I'm still catching up, but what the heck? Don was one of the good ones.

So...

I'm looking for referrals for a skull kit. Anybody have a preference? Is the Monster Guts kit the only game in town?


----------



## halstaff

As far as I know, the Monster Guts kit is the only one currently available. I have several of these and they are fantastic! They provide the best motion of any of the designs I have tried. I will be purchasing more!


----------



## Jack Mac

Thanks for the review Halstaff. I have been eyeing the Monster Guts 3 axis setup as well but wasn't sure if it was worth the price tag. By the way, do you happen to have any of your Frankenstein controllers available?


----------



## halstaff

I do still have a few boards on hand. Shoot me a pm and we can work out the details.


----------



## Jack Mac

Will do! Thanks Halstaff.


----------



## Batbuddy

If you are interested in building you own, I put a tutorial here.I used simple tools and easy to find parts and supplies. You can have a scull for way less this way.


----------



## scampa123

I seem to be having issues getting my Frankenstein board to be stable. I'm looking for ways to test/isolate the problem. Yesterday I thought it was working correctly, but then it went back to not working correctly. At the moment if I add speakers and power (no servos attached) LED1 lights for boot, the sounds card lights and flickers for where there would be sound and I hear some "chirps" coming through the speakers. For some reason if I hold the setup button it will very clearly speak "Welcome"...and then that is it. I tried rotating the Program dial, but nothing. I've already replaced the sound board since the original was making the LED1 flash (meaning something was wrong)...but currently the LED1 is not flashing...I'm not sure what is going on... Any help would be appreciated. I tried reflowing solder joints but can't seem to make it work reliably...


----------



## halstaff

scampa123 said:


> I seem to be having issues getting my Frankenstein board to be stable. I'm looking for ways to test/isolate the problem. Yesterday I thought it was working correctly, but then it went back to not working correctly. At the moment if I add speakers and power (no servos attached) LED1 lights for boot, the sounds card lights and flickers for where there would be sound and I hear some "chirps" coming through the speakers. For some reason if I hold the setup button it will very clearly speak "Welcome"...and then that is it. I tried rotating the Program dial, but nothing. I've already replaced the sound board since the original was making the LED1 flash (meaning something was wrong)...but currently the LED1 is not flashing...I'm not sure what is going on... Any help would be appreciated. I tried reflowing solder joints but can't seem to make it work reliably...


Can you post some pictures of the front and back of your board as well as how you have the everything plugged in?


----------



## scampa123

Here are some shots:


----------



## scampa123

Halstaff,

Do you see anything amiss on the board?

Thanks!!


----------



## mroct31

Pics are microscopic if you're looking for detailed viewing!:eekin:


----------



## RoxyBlue

^If you click on the individual images, it will take you to a larger view.


----------



## mroct31

Not for me and I tried, Chrome, Firefox and IE?


----------



## RoxyBlue

Hmmm, I have IE and it worked for me, so don't know what to tell you.


----------



## halstaff

scampa123 said:


> Here are some shots:


Possible cold solder joint shown in red in this image - http://screencast.com/t/57yKolZbSkz
What audio do you hear on start up?


----------



## scampa123

halstaff said:


> Possible cold solder joint shown in red in this image - http://screencast.com/t/57yKolZbSkz
> What audio do you hear on start up?


I do not hear any sounds at startup, however the sound board is flashing like it is playing something. If I then press and hold the setup button I hear "Welcome" and then it trails off and I do not get the rest of the message. At times when it did seem to work, once it booted the board it would automatically play "Welcome ..." and continue on...

I'll check the solder joint you pointed out. Thank you for taking a look and trying to understand what's going on!


----------



## scampa123

Halstaff,

Let me know if you still have boards. I may want to try to make another and see if I have better luck.

Thanks!


----------



## sreynolds

I'm trying to setup the jaw servo. Says to remove all audio source. Removing L/R select shunts. My jaw opens full as soon as it is powered on and when I turn the threshold it does not move the jaw.


----------



## sreynolds

Is the jaw servo backwards?


----------



## FistJr

sreynolds said:


> I'm trying to setup the jaw servo. Says to remove all audio source. Removing L/R select shunts. My jaw opens full as soon as it is powered on and when I turn the threshold it does not move the jaw.


Are you using a MonsterGuts kit? If so, I believe the jaw servo needs to be reversed (Halstaff correct me if I am wrong here.) You can either crack the servo open and do some surgery to modify it (doable, but not trivial) or buy a servo reverser. I'd recommend the second option.

Here's a link to one available on Amazon Prime, you should be able to find them a little bit cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...1_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=N6VAYY47MCN9YX8WMFRR

- Fist


----------



## sreynolds

Yes fist it is the monster guts kit. Thanks for the advice and the link.


----------



## halstaff

FistJr said:


> Are you using a MonsterGuts kit? If so, I believe the jaw servo needs to be reversed (Halstaff correct me if I am wrong here.) You can either crack the servo open and do some surgery to modify it (doable, but not trivial) or buy a servo reverser. I'd recommend the second option.
> 
> Here's a link to one available on Amazon Prime, you should be able to find them a little bit cheaper:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...1_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=N6VAYY47MCN9YX8WMFRR
> 
> - Fist


Exactly right! If you are using the Monster Guts kit and a Hitec servo, you will need to reverse it. I have done the hack many times but now go the route Fist suggested and use a servo reverser.


----------



## sreynolds

Thanks Hallstatt for confirming what fist had said. I just order a servo reverser. It should arrive by Friday. I can't wait until I get my skull talking. Thanks again guys. Happy haunting


----------



## Thisaintmayberry

*Servo wire length - How long can I go?*

Anybody know whats the safest length I can go on a servo wire extension without running into trouble? Using the MG kit with Hitec servos (4) and Halstaff's board. Best recommendation?


----------



## FistJr

I have gone 8-10 feet with multiple patched together servo connectors with no problems.

If you need longer, consider a servo-to-CAT6 connector. It accepts 4 servo connections, then converts them into a single CAT6 (Ethernet) cable.

https://www.servocity.com/cat6-sending-board-non-boosted

You will need a transmitter, a receiver, and 4 male-to-male servo connectors (https://www.amazon.com/RAYSUN-Servo...&sr=8-1&keywords=male+to+male+servo+connector)

- Fist


----------



## Thisaintmayberry

Thanks Fist! I only need to go about 36" so I'll try the standard extension cable route. I also saw your thread on the servo reverser for the jaw servo problem so I ordered one of those too, assuming I'm going to have the same issue.


----------



## sreynolds

*Jaw servo*

Is there a video showing how to set up the jaw servo?


----------



## sreynolds

I'm stuck I can't get it to do what it is suppose to . Setup for Jaw Servo
1 Turn on the power and remove all audio source. This can be done by removing the L/R select shunts
2 Turn the threshold adjustment clockwise until the circuit trips(the LED will light and the servo will move to the open position)
3 Adjust the MAX adjust to your desired full open position.
4 Slowly turn the threshold adjustment counter-clockwise until the circuit resets(LED will turn off and servo will move to the closed position)
5 Adjust the Min adjustment to your desired full closed position.
6 Add your audio source and adjust the gain as needed to make the circuit trip and reset with the audio


----------



## Batbuddy

I had that same issue with mine and I finally traced it to a circuit design flaw. The Jaw control portion of the circuit is based on the "Scary Terry" circuit found elsewhere online. There is a design issue with that circuit that is centered around the 555 IC and related components. When you set the duty cycle to less than 50% then an additional signal diode is required in order to get it to work correctly. I know that most of the guys that use this board have not had this issue but I sure did, and it drove me nuts. I did a bunch of research and figured it out on my own. In the end I "hacked" my board and re routed a couple of resistors and added a diode and it works flawlessly now. You can read about the 555 timer issue here. http://electronicsclub.info/555astable.htm Basically when the timer is set for anything less than 50%, say like 30%, for an example, the diode is required. Why most peoples boards are working without it , I don't know. It may be based on which brand and age of 555 you use, but all I know is that in analyzing mine the duty cycle was less than 50% and so the diode was the solution.


----------



## sreynolds

So u had the same issue with seting up the jaw. Like we're it says turn the threshold and the circuit will trip? When I move the max and min I can get the jaw to open and close.


----------



## sreynolds

How did you fix it? Did you make how to video?


----------



## wrasse

Batbuddy said:


> I had that same issue with mine and I finally traced it to a circuit design flaw. The Jaw control portion of the circuit is based on the "Scary Terry" circuit found elsewhere online. There is a design issue with that circuit that is centered around the 555 IC and related components. When you set the duty cycle to less than 50% then an additional signal diode is required in order to get it to work correctly. I know that most of the guys that use this board have not had this issue but I sure did, and it drove me nuts. I did a bunch of research and figured it out on my own. In the end I "hacked" my board and re routed a couple of resistors and added a diode and it works flawlessly now. You can read about the 555 timer issue here. http://electronicsclub.info/555astable.htm Basically when the timer is set for anything less than 50%, say like 30%, for an example, the diode is required. Why most peoples boards are working without it , I don't know. It may be based on which brand and age of 555 you use, but all I know is that in analyzing mine the duty cycle was less than 50% and so the diode was the solution.


Are you able to take a close-up photo of the hacks and post them for us?


----------



## halstaff

Batbuddy said:


> I had that same issue with mine and I finally traced it to a circuit design flaw. The Jaw control portion of the circuit is based on the "Scary Terry" circuit found elsewhere online. There is a design issue with that circuit that is centered around the 555 IC and related components. When you set the duty cycle to less than 50% then an additional signal diode is required in order to get it to work correctly. I know that most of the guys that use this board have not had this issue but I sure did, and it drove me nuts. I did a bunch of research and figured it out on my own. In the end I "hacked" my board and re routed a couple of resistors and added a diode and it works flawlessly now. You can read about the 555 timer issue here. http://electronicsclub.info/555astable.htm Basically when the timer is set for anything less than 50%, say like 30%, for an example, the diode is required. Why most peoples boards are working without it , I don't know. It may be based on which brand and age of 555 you use, but all I know is that in analyzing mine the duty cycle was less than 50% and so the diode was the solution.


I have built dozens of these, both the original Scary Terry board and then the various versions of the Frankenstein board and always got them to work by following the instructions posted above. The required adjustments can be very, very small and it does sometimes take some fiddling, but it always worked for me. In fact, there will be over a dozen of these in operation at my haunt.
In light of this circuit design flaw, I will no longer be making these available as I do not want anyone to have an issue with one of my designs.


----------



## sreynolds

halstaff said:


> I have built dozens of these, both the original Scary Terry board and then the various versions of the Frankenstein board and always got them to work by following the instructions posted above. The required adjustments can be very, very small and it does sometimes take some fiddling, but it always worked for me. In fact, there will be over a dozen of these in operation at my haunt.
> In light of this circuit design flaw, I will no longer be making these available as I do not want anyone to have an issue with one of my designs.


No please still make them available. I still think it's something I may be doing wrong. I probably to on a job that was more difficult then I should have. With that being said I don't want to take away someone's chance to get their hands on a great board. You worked very hard on this board and great work. Please please still make it available.

Do you have a video on how to setup the jaw servo? I think I'm just missing a step or something.


----------



## sreynolds

I found the problem I had bad solder joint. I went through all them before but I missed one on R2 I believe and started work after that. No design flaw. Just my inexperience. Halstaff thank you for all your hard work. I'm sorry that my inexperience cause this. Please still make the board available. I love the board and all the hard work you put in. I was just stressing out cause Halloween is fast approaching and I was think of using the skull to ask my girlfriend to marry me.


----------



## Batbuddy

Yes I can. I was going to get the skull out tomorrow anyway, so I will take some pictures and maybe a video and post back.


----------



## Batbuddy

I was not finding fault with Halstaffs design. Just the Scary Terry circuit it is not a bad issue and it is a simple fix, I only mentioned it because it caused me a great deal of trouble initially, I of course could be wrong but I would encourage a second look by a more qualified electronics engineer that Me. I am still pretty sure that there is an issue with the circuit and duty cycles, but it may just be because of the combination of components I was using to populate my board...some of which were old stuff I inherited from an uncle who used to repair electronics for a living. I still hold Steve's creation in high esteem, as well as him he is great and a talented designer. I just felt like the trouble I had was due to the aforementioned issue.


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## scampa123

What MicroSD card are folks using? If you are using the SD card, what size?

I've built 2 boards now and both exhibit the same behavior. Odds are against I made the same exact issue twice!

I've ordered 2 more sound boards, I've reprogrammed the Picaxe...

I'll test the new sound boards once they arrive but I figured I'd try to rule out other things which could be different. I'm wondering if the SD card could be incompatible with the sound board...

Any info would be appreciated!!


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## halstaff

scampa123 said:


> What MicroSD card are folks using? If you are using the SD card, what size?
> 
> I've built 2 boards now and both exhibit the same behavior. Odds are against I made the same exact issue twice!
> 
> I've ordered 2 more sound boards, I've reprogrammed the Picaxe...
> 
> I'll test the new sound boards once they arrive but I figured I'd try to rule out other things which could be different. I'm wondering if the SD card could be incompatible with the sound board...
> 
> Any info would be appreciated!!


I use 2gb SD cards in all of mine. Full size, not the micros.
What does the board do on power up? Any LED's come on either on the Frankenstein board or the audio player? Do any audio tracks play?
The biggest issue with using this audio player is getting the files loaded on the SD card properly. Formatting the SD card in FAT32 and then transferring the files over in order. Some computers will load the files out of order and you need to use a program such as Drive Sort to get them sorted correctly. Have you tried using the zip file that has the audio files? We provided it to help with this issue.


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## scampa123

halstaff said:


> I use 2gb SD cards in all of mine. Full size, not the micros.
> What does the board do on power up? Any LED's come on either on the Frankenstein board or the audio player? Do any audio tracks play?
> The biggest issue with using this audio player is getting the files loaded on the SD card properly. Formatting the SD card in FAT32 and then transferring the files over in order. Some computers will load the files out of order and you need to use a program such as Drive Sort to get them sorted correctly. Have you tried using the zip file that has the audio files? We provided it to help with this issue.


So at power-on the Yellow LED1 comes on for a moment , then goes off. The power light on the sound card is on. After LED1 goes off the red status light on the sound card starts to flash..but I hear no sound. If I then press and hold the SETUP button then release, I'll hear "welcome" and nothing more...silence...

My MicroSD is 32GB...So I'll see if I can find a 2GB...

As far as the files, I have the card formatted to Fat32 and they look like they are in the correct order. I used the .img from your site for the files. If I insert the SD into my computer I can certainly play them....


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## halstaff

That may be the issue. When I first started using this board it was suggested to use cards up to 2GB which was the norm when I first designed the board. I will update the build doc to reflect this. 
Also, to enter setup mode, push the setup button immediately after powering up the board.


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## scampa123

Thanks, I'll report back to the thread once I receive my sdcards! Hopefully I'll wind up with 2 working boards in the end!


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## Thisaintmayberry

*No sound*

I seem to be having the same issue that Scampa123 posted last September, but I didn't see a posted resolution to the issue. Here's what I have:

Board boots and gives a steady yellow led.

Sound card board gives a steady red led and a second flashing led (indicating sound being played?)

16gb Standard size SD card formatted FAT 32 and loaded with frank931.img using Win32DiskImager.

Picaxe loaded with frank_version9_3_1.bas.

Brand new powered computer speakers.

I follow the setup procedure by powering on while pressing the setup button. After the yellow led stays on I can see the red led on the sound card flashing, presumably indicating a sound file being played - but no sound. I swapped the speakers and also tried a headphone; nothing. Close up inspection on the solder side of the board and everything looks good. No response from any servos. Removed all servo wires from board, same result. Re flashed the Picaxe and the sound card. I even tried the jaw servo setup routine listed in the instructions; nothing.

What am I doing wrong?


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## halstaff

I responded to this issue in post #169.
More than likely, your issue is the 16gb SD card. These boards usually don't work well with SD cards larger than 2gb.


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## Thisaintmayberry

*Scratching head*

Still not working. Switched the SD card to a 2gb FAT 32 formatted one with the .img file copied on. Confirm the directory structure is:
02
a001.mp3
a002.mp3
a003.mp3
a004.mp3

03
*empty folder*

04
a001.mp3 to a101.mp3


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## Thisaintmayberry

If I power up with the SD card removed, LED1 one blinks slowly indicating a player problem as per instructions. Put the SD card back in and power up without holding the SETUP button down, I'll get full servo extension after the 6 second boot up procedure, but still no sound, although the red LED on the soundcard is blinking as if a sound file is being played. (I shut it down after a few seconds to prevent servo damage).


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