# triggering fogger with PicoBoo



## Bgio13 (Nov 2, 2014)

Just received my order from Frightprops and I'm running into a little problem. I'm trying to trigger my fog machine using my new PicoBoo plus and fogger remote as shown in the diagram http://www.frightprops.com/faq/content/4/103/en/activate-a-fog-machine-from-a-picoboo-or-boobox.html from the Frightprops website. The problem I am having is I can't solder the wires as shown no matter what I do. My question is, has anyone used another method to wire their fogger to a PicoBoo that would not result in me frying a controller? Thanks for your time,

Bill


----------



## IMU (Apr 8, 2009)

Buy one of these: http://www.frightideas.com/boobox-accessories-1/fog-remote-cable-ac.html


----------



## Setarcos (Jul 4, 2015)

What type of fogger remote do you have? Can you post pics of the remote + cable and the area you are having problems soldering?


----------



## Bgio13 (Nov 2, 2014)

I have the same remote as in the link. For some reason I am having problems posting pictures. Doug at Frightprops said the solder iron might not be hot enough but I tried again and no luck. I was hoping there was an easier way to hook this up. The link from IMU might just work. I was wondering if I could just cut the power cord from the fogger and use that. Thanks for the help,

Bill


----------



## BillyVanpire (Apr 22, 2015)

when controlling fog machines it's not just a matter of turning the power on & off like a light. there is no need to cut the power cord just the remote connection, specifically the green button that fires the smoke.

is the yellow button up/off? maybe your green button is disabled when the timer is on.


----------



## Mr_Chicken (Nov 26, 2008)

It sounds like your problem is specifically with getting the solder to adhere to the circuit board? Maybe we can try to isolate the problem here...are you able to solder two wires together (not to the board)?


----------



## Bgio13 (Nov 2, 2014)

Mr_Chicken said:


> It sounds like your problem is specifically with getting the solder to adhere to the circuit board? Maybe we can try to isolate the problem here...are you able to solder two wires together (not to the board)?


That's pretty much the problem. I can melt the solder on the spool and get it to stick to the wires. I just can't get the 2 blobs of solder on the remote to melt, or the wires to stick to them. I might just get the cord from Fright Ideas, and that might end my problem. Thanks to all for the help,

Bill


----------



## corey872 (Jan 10, 2010)

Solder flux makes the world go round and is your friend - especially when re-working solder joints. If you can get the tip of the iron right in there, then melt some good rosin core solder on the tip and let it melt down (while still wet with flux) it will often melt the original blob, too. 

Otherwise you need to add some additional rosin / flux, (buy a small can separately) then melt the solder into that. Another key is that your iron should be 'wet' with solder. This helps heat transfer and further melting.

There are likely dozens of 'how to' videos on youtube which can help.

Also, don't use acid flux from the plumbing section, it will corrode the copper of your wires and circuit board.


----------



## Richie4540 (Jul 23, 2015)

also check what type of solder you are using , the new ROHS approved solder is lead free and needs a hotter tip temperature to work and can be a right pain to use, go to any good electronics store and you should be able to still buy Lead based solder ( 60/40 Tin/lead (Sn/Pb) which melts at 183 °C (361 °F), lead free solder - Sn-Ag-Cu (Tin-Silver-Copper) solders - melting point of the Sn-Ag-Cu ternary eutectic behavior (217 ˚C) - 

Lead-free solder has a higher Young's modulus than lead-based solder, making it more brittle when deformed. When the PCB on which the electronic components are mounted is subject to bending stress due to warping, the solder joint deteriorates and fractures can appear. This effect is called solder cracking


so maybe try some leaded solder might make your troubles go away, like most things practice make perfect - so strip off some cables and practice before going back to the smoke machine connections.


----------



## tarpleyg (Nov 4, 2014)

corey872 said:


> Solder flux makes the world go round and is your friend - especially when re-working solder joints. If you can get the tip of the iron right in there, then melt some good rosin core solder on the tip and let it melt down (while still wet with flux) it will often melt the original blob, too.


You said it! Lots of folks don't even know what flux is outside of an ancient reference in some old movie about Doc Brown ;-) I grew up watching my dad fix Motorola 2-ways for the PD and FD so I know a thing or three about soldering. I always take that for granted I guess.


----------

