# Wallbreaker Ghost Mechanism How-to



## heresjohnny

Hey everyone, finally got the how-to for the Wallbreaker ghost finished. Have fun, and please tell me if you find any errors or have any questions. This how-to is updated for correction, the latest version will always be available at the link below.

Click here for the How-to, last updated 10/25/2010
Click here for templates. Print as letter sized document














 








More information available at my blog


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## Sickie Ickie

I'm on it like scum on a pond! You rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## pagan

Like a rat on a cheeto! Thanks!


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## RoxyBlue

Like a fly on a dung heap...oh, wait...:googly:


Man, I just knew Sickie would be the first to jump on this Thanks, Johnny! I'm definitely going to look at the how-to.


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## heresjohnny

Sickie Ickie said:


> I'm on it like scum on a pond! You rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Dang Sickie, I barely hit the enter key  Hope it helps!


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## Sickie Ickie

I just looked at it and my jaw hit the floor! Now I know why it took so long. Those diagrams are outstanding and the instructions are broken down enough so even I understand them! Dude, the time you spent on this shows! Incredible!


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## morbidmike

great how to very well explained and the schematics are incredible


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## Jaybo

Wow.

That is one detailed How-To. I've already downloaded and printed the document. Will be stopping by the hardware store tonight on the way home from work. Thank you for such a great addition to the community!


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## GhoulishGadgets

That's a great how-to, well illustrated - must've taken significant effort, it's really appreciated.

Si


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## 2dragon

Wow! Thank you.


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## Aquayne

Fantastic work! Thanks for the tute.


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## Dead Things

WOW! And I mean, like, umm...WOW!


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## HalloweenZombie

That tutorial was a ton of work! We are not worthy!


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## apetoes

This is fantastic, very well written, excellent diagrams. I can't wait to start working on one! Thanks for putting all of the time and hard work into this, it is greatly appriciated!


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## Just Whisper

Wow, quite a novel. Can i wait for the mini series to come out? I can't believe how much work you put into that tutorial. Thank you so much. It is amazing.


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## Doc Doom

Dead Things said:


> WOW! And I mean, like, umm...WOW!


What he said!


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## heresjohnny

Thanks everyone. Any of you that try it, please ask questions and post progress pictures. I will be providing some smaller how-tos on using pully's, making hands and forms, etc.


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## TNBrad

OH YEAH BABY!!!... OH No .... my lovely lady is going to get so mad at you johnny... 
NOW I have... ANOTHER PROJECT LOLOLOL.

thanks this looks like it will be great fun.


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## Spooky1

I'll get right on this.... as soon as I finish my degree in mechanical engineering.  :googly:


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## heresjohnny

Spooky1 said:


> I'll get right on this.... as soon as I finish my degree in mechanical engineering.  :googly:


LOL Spooky no engineering required, everything is already figured out. Two basic parts to the how-to, first the dimensions to cut the wood and drill the holes, second how to assemble the peices.

Cutting the wood peices may be more than some want to take on, I am open to providing kits with all the peices pre-cut and drilled, all you would have to do is assemble it.


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## hpropman

my vote for how to of the year! thanks!


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## Erebus

I am about half way through with the tutorial, and found a few things that could use adjusting, or more wording. I will send you a PM about what I am talking about once I get closer to being done jsut to help others out. I haven't run into any problems with it mechanically, just getting confused at a couple of parts. You will understand when I send you the PM. Thanks for the how to by the way.


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## heresjohnny

Erebus said:


> I am about half way through with the tutorial, and found a few things that could use adjusting, or more wording. I will send you a PM about what I am talking about once I get closer to being done jsut to help others out. I haven't run into any problems with it mechanically, just getting confused at a couple of parts. You will understand when I send you the PM. Thanks for the how to by the way.


Thanks for the update Erebus, I welcome all feedback good and bad, and will update the how-to based on any feedbcak that comes in. I am fine with you posting it here if you like so everyone can see, or a PM works also.

I cranked up the original for a stress test today (it's running now) and I learned a few things that will get added to the how-to. One, using a quetip with a little 3-1 oil on the lines next to the eybolts helps, especially if it has been sitting in storage for a while. Two, I am adding the use of 2 5/16 washers at each shoulder, and optionally at the torso pivot. Three, I am adding detail about mounting and using pully's for the torso movement. Four, I am expanding the parts list to include a range for some parts (i.e. the fender washer does not have to be exactly 1 1/2"), and to include some I missed (#10 x 20 1 1/4" nuts and bolts for mounting the motor, #8 will work also). The updated howto should be available within a couple of days.

I have a couple of kits going out for beta testing, so hopefully have results from that soon.


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## RoxyBlue

HJ, I'm with HP on this one - you are the "How To Man of the Year"


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## heresjohnny

hpropman said:


> my vote for how to of the year! thanks!





RoxyBlue said:


> HJ, I'm with HP on this one - you are the "How To Man of the Year"


Thanks!


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## heresjohnny

The original went 6 hours before the torso line snapped, that was better than I thought. I will wire up the new version that uses pullys and nylon cord for the torso and stress test it tomorrow. I expect it to last way longer, but the test will tell.


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## kprimm

First let me say that it is a very impressive prop, and the how to is even more so. This is probably the best most clearly written how-to that i have ever read. I can't believe all the work you put into this prop. It looks very cool and i think i will also tackle this prop in the future. I have already downloaded the how-to. Thank you for another great prop and the inspiration to build another cool prop.


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## Erebus

HJ, did you use the normal fishing string? I know you said it was a 20# line, but I hav always used a string called spiderwire because it is a dark green color and won't reflect light since it is an actual fabric (i think) string and not the clear plastic looking fishing line. I am not sure if that will help with the eye bolts or not but that is what I plan on using and I will let you know how it goes. 

As I followed the instructions, there were a couple of parts that I was lost at. First is the 3 penny nail (or 3d in the PDF). A 3 penny nail is 1-1/4" and your instructions says 1". I not this part ins't that important and could pretty much use anything, but people like me that want's to follow the instructions perfectly, the will get caught on it. I jsut plan on using a cotter pin so I don't put any stress on the dowel and cause it to split.

In the Block section, first part where we need to cut the 2x4's into 10 blocks of 1.5 x 1.5 x 1", it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and tell them to label them #2 - #11. THen in part 4-8, tell them to grab block 4 and 5, or 2 and 3, and etc. I got a little lost there and almost cut a few more peices. (just to clarify things a little better)

Figure 40. The eye bolt in D2 (e9) is suppose to be vertical, correct?

I haven't got to this part though, but D5, "3/8” dowel 3 ½”. Sand hole A in #14 carefully until D5 will fit snuggly but turn freely in #13, hole A" (copied from PDF). D5 doesn't fo to #13, does it? The picture looks like it should fit snuggly in #4 and #5 and go freely through #14 (figure 41). If it is suppose to go to #13, it doesn't say which hole on #13 is hole A. I hope I am not comfusing you.

I left my printed out "how-to" at home so I am tryin to go off the top off my head on what I remember. That is all I can remember right now though. I plan on finishing this thing at the M&T this weekend with Jaybo so if we encounter any problems, I will let you know.

BTW, you did an awsome job on this how to. I don't want to discourage you with me trying to correct a few things or trying to simplify things. Trust me, if I ever have a how to this detailed, I will be sure to contact you because I am horrible about leaving small things off and just leaving people in the middle of a project with a huge peice missing. I don't even want to know how much time and effort you have in this because it is probably insane. I am jsut letting you know to help you out and our fellow haunters.


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## PropBoy

All that motion from that one little motor???
What kinda motor is that?

That is a sweet prop, I may have to try this for my haunt.
-PB


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## heresjohnny

Erebus said:


> HJ, did you use the normal fishing string? I know you said it was a 20# line, but I hav always used a string called spiderwire because it is a dark green color and won't reflect light since it is an actual fabric (i think) string and not the clear plastic looking fishing line. I am not sure if that will help with the eye bolts or not but that is what I plan on using and I will let you know how it goes.


I have the second wall breaker with the A/C vent motor running a stress test right now. I am using the pullys on the torso movement (I need to get the details on that posted), and have actually dropped down to a 12 lb test monofilament for the remaining lines. It seems like the heavier the monofilament the more it sticks in the eye bolts, and I was thinking of trying some different types of line this morning. Any ideas you have for the line would be most helpful, and I an very interested in how the line you use turns out. I just wired up the second wallbreaker, and I found it neccesary to use a little oil where the line goes through the eye bolts, and it has to run a little for everything to loosen up and smooth out, I think because the monofilament is sticking to the eyebolts. Where do you get spider wire?



Erebus said:


> As I followed the instructions, there were a couple of parts that I was lost at. First is the 3 penny nail (or 3d in the PDF). A 3 penny nail is 1-1/4" and your instructions says 1". I not this part ins't that important and could pretty much use anything, but people like me that want's to follow the instructions perfectly, the will get caught on it. I jsut plan on using a cotter pin so I don't put any stress on the dowel and cause it to split.


You're right, they are 1 1/4". I will correct that, and add this to my list of parts for which there are several options, not just exactly what I listed.



Erebus said:


> In the Block section, first part where we need to cut the 2x4's into 10 blocks of 1.5 x 1.5 x 1", it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and tell them to label them #2 - #11. THen in part 4-8, tell them to grab block 4 and 5, or 2 and 3, and etc. I got a little lost there and almost cut a few more peices. (just to clarify things a little better)


Good idea, I will do that.



Erebus said:


> Figure 40. The eye bolt in D2 (e9) is suppose to be vertical, correct?


Yes, I will clarify. Actually I need to clarify that as you wire this thing up you will turn some of the eye bolts a little so the line going through them wraps around the eyebolt as little as possible.



Erebus said:


> I haven't got to this part though, but D5, "3/8" dowel 3 ½". Sand hole A in #14 carefully until D5 will fit snuggly but turn freely in #13, hole A" (copied from PDF). D5 doesn't fo to #13, does it? The picture looks like it should fit snuggly in #4 and #5 and go freely through #14 (figure 41). If it is suppose to go to #13, it doesn't say which hole on #13 is hole A. I hope I am not comfusing you.


I think I should be the one saying I hope I am not confusing you! Good catch, that is supposed to say "3/8" dowel 3 ½". Sand hole A in #14 carefully until D5 will fit snuggly but turn freely in #14, hole A." Block #14 will revolve around D5, and #14 does need to turn freely in #14 with as little play as possible. Too much play the torso will wobble around and it is that much harder to keep everything running smoothly. D5 will be tight enough #4 and #5 so it is held in place, but this will not be glued because it is very helpful to be able to pop D5 out and remove the torso from the mount.



Erebus said:


> I left my printed out "how-to" at home so I am tryin to go off the top off my head on what I remember. That is all I can remember right now though. I plan on finishing this thing at the M&T this weekend with Jaybo so if we encounter any problems, I will let you know.
> 
> BTW, you did an awsome job on this how to. I don't want to discourage you with me trying to correct a few things or trying to simplify things. Trust me, if I ever have a how to this detailed, I will be sure to contact you because I am horrible about leaving small things off and just leaving people in the middle of a project with a huge peice missing. I don't even want to know how much time and effort you have in this because it is probably insane. I am jsut letting you know to help you out and our fellow haunters.


Not a problem, I know this would require some tweaking, and some rewording so someone other than myself could understand it. I really appreciate you working through this, I think you are the first ones to try it. Yeah I probably spent more time than I should, but I'm glad to pass this approach to ghost making on to other home haunters.


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## heresjohnny

PropBoy said:


> All that motion from that one little motor???
> What kinda motor is that?
> 
> That is a sweet prop, I may have to try this for my haunt.
> -PB


The motor was salvaged from an animated reindeer. Details on where you can get one are available in the howto.


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## heresjohnny

heresjohnny said:


> The original went 6 hours before the torso line snapped, that was better than I thought. I will wire up the new version that uses pullys and nylon cord for the torso and stress test it tomorrow. I expect it to last way longer, but the test will tell.


When I went to resurrect the ghost this morning, I found that the dowel that supports the torso actually worked its way out, so apparently it still had some life in it. For those who will only run it a few hours at a time the eyebolts might work.


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## The Pod

Very nice work!!! That must have taken some time to figure out all them strings/wires and where to place the eye bolts. Truely amazing how you managed to get all that movement from a single motor.


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## Erebus

heresjohnny said:


> Where do you get spider wire?


I am pretty sure you can get it at Walmart, or any fishing supply place like bass pro or academy. It is more expensive than others (would probably made you go over $20 on your prop challenge), but it is very good. It is like a fabric that is threaded. It is very strong and I use it for all of my halloween props because others have broken with half the weight of the line limit. I want to say a roll of it is like $10 or somewhere around that.

Also, I forgot to mention that it would help if you added what size hole we needed to drill in D13 (where the nail goes through). In the dowel section, it just says to drill a hole and doesn't refer to the nail so I had to look through it until I found out what that hole was for. You could add something simple like "drill a hole at 1-3/8" line for your 3d (3 penny) nail to fit snuggly". That way it would help other know what that hole is for and can adjust it if the have a smaller or bigger nail.


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## Erebus

For all of the people out there that think you can't do this, you can. I have about 2 hours total in this so far and I have all of my wood cut out, and everything marked. All I need to do is start putting it together. With the great instructions, it is very very easy to build.


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## dave the dead

walmart has spiderwire. I use it almose exclusively for Halloween props because it is strong, nearly invisible, and very abrasion resistant. 

example...you can bite regular fishing line to cut it, but you will need a knife or scissors to cut the spiderwire.

anxious to start playing with this...good proofreading erebus.

thanks HJ!


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## heresjohnny

picked up some spiderwire, will try it tonight.


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## Doc Doom

I bought 10, 20, 50 and 60 ponund test spyder wire at Walmart. Great stuff for props as it is invisible at night with no reflectivity.


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## heresjohnny

The spiderwire worked GREAT! Thanks Erebus, and everyone that chimed in. The movement with the spiderwire was smooth and quite. I am going to update the howto with all the latest information and get it posted. The video below shows the second walbreaker I built while doing the howto, rewired with spiderwire tonight. It also shows the pully setup for the torso.


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## Erebus

That's awsome. I am glad that the spider wire works. I am waiting for tomorrows M&T to start building mine but I have everything cut, drilled, marked, and alot of the eye bolts in place. I just need to find my spider wire. I can't wait to get this thing up and running.


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## Lunatic

Wow HJ, that is awsome! I can't see some of the pix because I'm viewing from work...shhhh, don't tell anyone. I'll have to take a closer look when I get home. Congratulations on the new prop!


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## Doc Doom

Love the skull and hands. Where did you get them?


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## Jaybo

Doc Doom said:


> Love the skull and hands. Where did you get them?


He made them. Check out his build on his blog.


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## heresjohnny

Howto has been updated. The changes are:

•	Replace monofilament with spiderwire for line
•	A 3 penny nail is 1-1/4"
•	Reworded block numbering
•	Corrected wording for D5 to turn freely in #14, not #13
•	Added section on using pullys for torso
•	Added washers for shoulder and torso pivots
•	Corrected e1 placement, 4 ½”
•	Changed measurement for e1, 2, 3, 6, 7 and 8 to be 2” from top instead of 3”. Change e4 and e4 measurement from 3 ¼ to 2 ¾. This will leave room to use eyehooks on end of line to avoid the holes in the fender washer. Add use of eyehooks where connecting to fender washer.
•	Move e2 to 1” below e3, makes room for pully
•	Move e6 to 3”, this allows more side to side head movement.
•	Added size of hole to drill in D13.
•	Show hole location for mounting eyebolt on blocks #2 and #3
•	Corrected measure for 3/8” in #10 and #11 (Figure 20) to ½”
•	Eyebolts e23 and e22 will be mounted on the ends of the dowel
•	Move e21 out to the side so wire can be wrapped around eyebolt to adjust head up and down movement.
•	Lower e11 and e12 1” to avoid rubbing against head up and down.
•	Reword line wiring directions. Includes correcting some incorrect eyebolts


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## heresjohnny

Another update, the mount holes for the motors were wrong.


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## Erebus

OK, I ran into a problem. In figure 42, it shows that D7 and D8 should be close to the top of block 12, going away from the x. Then in figure 46, it looks that we need to rotate block 12 around so that the "x" is still on top, but towards us. Then we install both D12's and they are coming down towards us. When we insert D14, D7 and D8 should be on top of D14, correct? Then in figure 51, it shows that D7 and D8 should be under D14. Some close pictures of it would help a lot.


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## heresjohnny

Have I told you how much I appreciate you working through this.

I see the problem, figure 42 should have the X's on #15 and #16 above D7 and D8, not below. When you insert the D14's they will go above D7 and D8, the orientation in figure 51 is correct. D7 is pulled down to raise the head. Below is a picture of mine which shows all the dowel and block labels, let me know if you need more detail.


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## Spyder

This has got to be one of the most awesome props I have ever seen! I would love to build this. I do have a question though. How well would this prop hold up outside in the elements/weather? My haunt is totally outside, I would love to make this coming out of a large tombstone or crypt. Will it hold up?


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## heresjohnny

Spider said:


> This has got to be one of the most awesome props I have ever seen! I would love to build this. I do have a question though. How well would this prop hold up outside in the elements/weather? My haunt is totally outside, I would love to make this coming out of a large tombstone or crypt. Will it hold up?


The mechanism itself is pretty sturdy, the original got tossed around and dropped and kept working. The problem I foresee is what you cover the frame with. I used very light weight paper mache, cloth and cheese cloth, and my concern would be this getting too heavy if wet. I don't keep my ghosts up outside in the rain, so I don't know for sure. If you could come up with a weather resistant, light weight cover it might work, for example I have use a foam skull that should resist the elements.


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## Spyder

Thank you, will try to do the original justice.
Please be prepared for alot of questions! LMAO


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## Erebus

Well, I didn't finish but I have it all together and the glue is drying. The holes for the motor still didn't line up though. I will take it to work and see what the dimensions are. All I need to do know is mount the motor and put the fishing string on.


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## heresjohnny

What motor are you using? Did you get the updated layout for the motor holes (check the latest how-to)?


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## Erebus

I am using the TRW motor. I used the new measurements, unless you haven't updated the how to yet but I thought you did. I left the motor at home but I will try and see what I can figure out. I just ended up placing the motor on the middle, and drilled it out using the motor and not measuring. I will re-measure your new measurements and just see if I had them wrong or something.


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## heresjohnny

Erebus said:


> I am using the TRW motor. I used the new measurements, unless you haven't updated the how to yet but I thought you did. I left the motor at home but I will try and see what I can figure out. I just ended up placing the motor on the middle, and drilled it out using the motor and not measuring. I will re-measure your new measurements and just see if I had them wrong or something.


Cool, in case you didn't know I had the center lines for the motor axis on the 1x4's as a guide in case you needed to use a different motor or mount. Did you use those? I will re-check the motor mount dimensions when I get home. If you orient the motor so the little arm with the mounting hole sticks out on the right, this arm should fit into the notch cut out of the 2x4.


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## puterdoc

Absolutely fantastic prop. 

I plan to start this one over the weekend, but after looking at the updated plans I found a couple of questionable items in the "Wiring the Line" section.

1) Both steps 6 and 14 reference eyebolt E15. Are there actually two lines running thru the eyebolt?
2) Both steps 8 and 12 reference eyebolt E28. Two lines in the same eye bolt?
3) In step 8, it's noted to start at E3 and then go to E3 again. Is that correct? Or is there a different eybolt following E3?

Has anyone thought about maybe mounting this on a pole in their graveyard to perhaps make this a stand alone ghost? Just a thought.

Thanks for all the effort put into this for a great prop.


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## heresjohnny

No, each eyebolt is supposed to have a single line, thanks for catching this. I thought I had updated this section but apparently I didn't :googly:. I will correct the document this afternoon, including updates from what Erebus has found and post the update.

I appreciate everyones feedback, and especilly those of you who are working through the steps and helping tweak the how-to . Hopefully we just about have the kinks worked out.

PLEASE treat the how-to as a living document, in other words it has already been updated about 5 times, and there are likey more changes in addition to ones I plan on this afternoon. The link at the beginning of this thread will always point to the latest and greatest, and I suggest you reference the online version until it appears that the changes are done. At that point it would probably be safe to print out and refer to the hardcopy.


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## lele

i am probably dumb... and i have to ask some explanation. When you cut 7 1" long pieces from a 2x4 and then you cut the 5 pieces along the lines, don't you obtain 10 blocs of 1 ½" by *2"* by 1" instead of 1 ½" by 1 ½" by 1"?


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## lele

i am probably dumb... and i have to ask some explanation. When you cut 7 1" long pieces from a 2x4 and then you cut the 5 pieces along the lines, don't you obtain 10 blocs of 1 ½" by *2"* by 1" instead of 1 ½" by 1 ½" by 1"?


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## heresjohnny

lele said:


> i am probably dumb... and i have to ask some explanation. When you cut 7 1" long pieces from a 2x4 and then you cut the 5 pieces along the lines, don't you obtain 10 blocs of 1 ½" by *2"* by 1" instead of 1 ½" by 1 ½" by 1"?


No such thing as a dumb question. A 2x4 is actually 1.5" by 3.5", thats why you end up with 1.5" by 1.5" by 1" peices. If a 2x4 were actually 2" by 4" as advertised you would be correct.


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## Erebus

No, because you measure in 1.5" from each side, and cut along those lines. In the end you actually discard about 1/2" from the middle.


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## lele

ah ok, sorry. i am not familiar with it, and i thought that 2x4 was exactly 2" by 4" 
and sorry also for the double post..i don't know how it happened


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## heresjohnny

Here are the corrected steps for wiring, will be included in an updated howto later this evening.

6. Rotate the motor until the crank arm is pointing half way between e2 and e6. Run the line through e6 (see Figure 53), then* e16*, then e25, then e20, then e23, and secure the line to e23. Pull the slack out of the line until both lines that control the head left and right are tight, then cut the line about 4" past where it reaches the fender washer. Tie of the line off into a swivel clip, then clip to the appropriate hole in the fender washer, allowing about an inch of slack in the line.

8. Upper arms - Rotate the motor until the crank arm is pointing directly at eyebolt e3. *Run the line through e3 (see Figure 53), *then e28, then e31, and tie off at e31. Pull the slack out of the line until the upper arm is slightly lower than the dowel D12 coming forward from the shoulder, then cut the line about 4" past where it passes through the fender washer. Tie of the line off at the fender washer, keeping the slack out of the line so the upper arm maintains the positioned just described.

12. Lower arms - Rotate the motor until the crank arm is pointing directly at eyebolt e4. Run the line through e4 (see Figure 53), then e17, *then e12, then e26*, then e33, then e34 and tie off at e34. Pull the slack out of the line until the lower arm is with the dowel D12 coming forward from the elbow is even with the upper arm, then cut the line about 4" past where it reaches the fender washer. Tie of the line off into a swivel clip, then clip to the appropriate hole in the fender washer, keeping the slack out of the line so the lower arm maintains the positioned just described.

14. Rotate the motor until the crank arm is pointing directly at eyebolt e7. Run the line through e7 (see Figure 53), then e15, then *e11*, then e27, then e32, then e35 and tie off at e35. Pull the slack out of the line until the lower arm is with the dowel D12 coming forward from the elbow is even with the upper arm, then cut the line about 4" past where it reaches the fender washer. Tie of the line off into a swivel clip, then clip to the appropriate hole in the fender washer, keeping the slack out of the line so the lower arm maintains the positioned just described.


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## Wildcat

Absolutely amazing. 
I browsed the instructions at first but the diagrams on the last few pages were to complex to get without thoroughly reading. So I just got through reading the instructions and wow not only can you design an amazing prop. You can even make me understand how it works. Well done.


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## Lunatic

Holy Cow HJ you are a serious pro! I love that freakin thing! Sensational job and thanks for the tutorial!


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## Lunatic

Alright seriously, I just read your blog and watched your vids and had to reply once again. Wow, I'm very impressed with your methods. That is one fine contraption you built. You must be proud of it. I would be extremely happy to build one. Props like this amaze people. Thanks again for sharing!


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## heresjohnny

Wildcat said:


> Absolutely amazing.
> I browsed the instructions at first but the diagrams on the last few pages were to complex to get without thoroughly reading. So I just got through reading the instructions and wow not only can you design an amazing prop. You can even make me understand how it works. Well done.


Thanks for the feedback, I am trying to make the howto usable by as many of you as possible.

Thanks everyone else for all the positive feedback, I am glad I can contribute something back.

The howto is updated with the wiring corrections, and the corrections from Erebus last night about assembling the shoulders.


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## heresjohnny

Lunatic said:


> Alright seriously, I just read your blog and watched your vids and had to reply once again. Wow, I'm very impressed with your methods. That is one fine contraption you built. You must be proud of it. I would be extremely happy to build one. Props like this amaze people. Thanks again for sharing!


Thankyou very much!


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## heresjohnny

Erebus said:


> Well, I didn't finish but I have it all together and the glue is drying. The holes for the motor still didn't line up though. I will take it to work and see what the dimensions are. All I need to do know is mount the motor and put the fishing string on.


I checked the dimensions and they match what I have. Below is a picture. Is it possible there are different mounting schemes for these motors?










Please let me know if there is anything else you need help with.


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## dave the dead

Johnny,
I seem to remember having motors with two mounting ears and then having some with three ears...the stuff is buried too deep to verify, though.


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## heresjohnny

Thanks. If any of you find different mount mounts on the TRW motor please let me know what they are.


----------



## Erebus

Well, I guess I need to apologize HJ. I looked at it last night and it wasn't the fact that the holes didn't line up, but the side of the motor was hitting the 2x4 and that caused them not to line up. Thats what I get for playing on the internet at work. I tried to work on it last night but I visited my dad in the hospital for alittle bit, then had to make another run to home depot because the bolts to mount the motor to the base board weren't long enough. Does your motor have 2 small dots on the bottom of the motor that make them stand a little off the base board? Nto sure if that was it or if I ended up using 3/4 for the base board. Oh, also, I couldn't find a 1/4 x 1-1/2 fender washer, so I just ended up going with the 5/16 x 1-1/2. I might have to take another run up to HD because my cap nut won't stay on. Ahhhhhhhh. Questions though, are the shoulders just sitting on the end, and the fishing line keeps them from falling off? I will wire it up tonight (hopefully) and I will be able to tell then but I am bored at work, again. Thanks for all of your help. If I finish it tonight, I will post a video.


----------



## heresjohnny

Erebus said:


> Well, I guess I need to apologize HJ. I looked at it last night and it wasn't the fact that the holes didn't line up, but the side of the motor was hitting the 2x4 and that caused them not to line up. Thats what I get for playing on the internet at work. I tried to work on it last night but I visited my dad in the hospital for alittle bit, then had to make another run to home depot because the bolts to mount the motor to the base board weren't long enough. Does your motor have 2 small dots on the bottom of the motor that make them stand a little off the base board? Nto sure if that was it or if I ended up using 3/4 for the base board. Oh, also, I couldn't find a 1/4 x 1-1/2 fender washer, so I just ended up going with the 5/16 x 1-1/2. I might have to take another run up to HD because my cap nut won't stay on. Ahhhhhhhh. Questions though, are the shoulders just sitting on the end, and the fishing line keeps them from falling off? I will wire it up tonight (hopefully) and I will be able to tell then but I am bored at work, again. Thanks for all of your help. If I finish it tonight, I will post a video.


No need to apologize, it can be hard getting time to work on this stuff. I hope your dad is okay.

The motor will fit snug against the 2x4 on the right, with one arm from the motor base sitting in the notch cut in the 2x4. Is it hitting the 2x4 on the side, or in the notch? Did you draw the lines at 3 1/4" as shown in figure 6, and line 2x4 D with the line? It looks like I did not point that out in the how-to, and will correct that. I would suggest the following steps, I disassemble mine like this all the time:

Remove 1x4's F and G.
Remove the screws that hold 1x4 E, and 2x4 A to the plywood base.
Carefully remove the ghost from the base (the ghost will still be mounted to 1x4 E and 2x4 A, remove A and E from the base and the ghost will come with it).
Remove 2x4 D
Mount the motor
Replace 2x4 D as close to the line at 3 1/4 on the plywood base as possible.
Remount A and E, then F and G.

Let me know if this doesn't make sense.

I used 1/4 plywood, I bet you used 1/2 and that made the 1 1/2 inch screws to short to mount the motor? I need to point that out in the how-to. And the fender washer should be fine. And yes, mine has the 2 dots that hold it off the base.

Yes, shoulders just sit on the end, the tension on the strings keeps them from sliding off. This makes it very convenient to take the ghost apart for adjustment and storage.


----------



## Erebus

I finally finished mine YAY


----------



## Erebus

Ooops, double post.


----------



## heresjohnny

That looks familiar! It's great to see that you got it working. When you add hands the arms will hang down better. Let me know if you need any info on dressing it up.

Awesome, you are officially the first to use the how-to


----------



## Erebus

heresjohnny said:


> Awesome, you are officially the first to use the how-to


Yay!!! It was well worth it though. I ran into a couple more things but I will post those tomorrow. I need to read the updated version because the site was down and I had to go by the old ones. I will check and make sure they aren't already corrected and will let you know. I might add a counter weight at the bottom of D4 to try and help the motor out a little bit. I wonder if it will have enough strength to add a candle to each hand. The tea light candle kind made out of PVC. Hmmmm.


----------



## Dixie

Just incredible. Erebus, thank you so much for letting me sit and stare at you working on this for a few hours, it's amazing watching all the work and concentration into it, and then watching it work just a day or two later. You really did a great job.

And HJ, thank *you* so much for working so hard on this how to, which will not only allow many people to make your amazing prop, but to learn from the workings of it, and explore endless options from there. Thank you thank you thank you!!!


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## heresjohnny

You are very welcome!


----------



## Erebus

The how to looks good to me. I just went over it and remembered all of the things I encountered last night but they have all been taken care of. Now to build the second one. Haha


----------



## Jaybo

Erebus said:


> I finally finished mine YAY


Sweet! Good job! Hopefully, I will have time to get mine up and running by this weekend.


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## Erebus

Jaybo said:


> Sweet! Good job! Hopefully, I will have time to get mine up and running by this weekend.


Give me a call if you need any help. My phone number is somewhere in the mess of PM's we got before the M&T.


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## Doc Doom

Erebus, your work and problem solving is awesome. I'm starting my "kit" this weekend and you've already paved the way.


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## heresjohnny

Erebus said:


> The how to looks good to me. I just went over it and remembered all of the things I encountered last night but they have all been taken care of. Now to build the second one. Haha


What ended up being the issue with the motor, the way the 2x4 was mounted to the plywood, or something else?

You can compensate for weight in the hands by keeping the upper arms lower, and the lowerr arms higher. This is the same as tucking your elbows by your side and bringing your hands back closer to your shoulders, the closer your hands are to your shoulders, the more weight they can hold.

Another way to counter weight in the torso movement is to have it lean out the least amount possible by tightening up the torso line until it almost hits the crank arm.


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## heresjohnny

How-to updated, all minor changes. I think we are just about there.


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## Lunatic

Wow, you guys have been busy! Excellent job Erebus! Can't wait to see the final product. Thanks for the video!


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## Magic Taco Truck

Erebus said:


> Give me a call if you need any help. My phone number is somewhere in the mess of PM's we got before the M&T.


You should host a M&T for this in the Dallas area


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## Erebus

We do have a M&T in Dallas, but I don't host it. James (Darklore) or Anne (spideranne) usally hosts them. If you are intersted, we are having another one in August (click here if you are intersted). I will probably be there and will take my wallbreaker so everyone can see it work.


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## Ripper

Well, yet another fantastic project (this one will have to wait till 2011) I can't wait to get started on it. What an amazing prop!

THANK YOU!


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## heresjohnny

Learned something today that will help the glue joints be much stronger. I started putting 3-4 little notches in the end of the dowels so the glue has a place to go between the dowel and the block. Now that I think about it, dowels used in good woodworking always have parallel ridges for this purpose. Otherwise most of the glue gets squeezed out.


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## heresjohnny

I am going to update the how-to to use only 3/8" inch dowels (using 5/16 in some places was a money saving step for the $20 prop contest). Also, if you have the drill bit, use a 25/64 in place of the 3/8 drill bit. Once Doc Doom gets through the wiring I will update the how-to.


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## lowdwnrob

I dont think I will get to this this year but will diffenitly be something I build for next year. Thanks for the how to and thanks to everyones input to make it perfect.


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## heresjohnny

Update on the blog on making hands for the ghost, and adding cheese cloth to the head and hands. I should have another entry soon on making the forms for the arms and torso for the leer ghost that can be applied to a wallbreaker.

FYI, the wallbreaker is the mad prop on hauncast this month! http://hauntcast.net/


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## Doc Doom

The hands how-to is just in time. I just finished my assembly from your kit.

Here's a quick video clip.


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## heresjohnny

A big THANK YOU to Erebus and Doc Doom for building the initial wallbreakers! 

1. There is what will hopefully be the last update to the how-to coming in the next couple of days.
2. FYI, Michaels is selling foam skulls for $5.99 that would work well on this ghost or something like a leer ghost.
3. I am getting things in place to sell wall breaker kits. Please PM if you are interested, will hopefully have the details worked out in the next couple of days. Right now the price will be $50 for just the wood, and $70 for all wood and hardware like the kit Doc Doom got. If you need a motor let me know. Price includes shipping.
4. I am planning on providing templates and dimensions for the forms I used to cover the wallbreaker, I will make these as I cover my second one.


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## puterdoc

This is coming along fantastic..........

I did run across another question. In Figure 8, the "G" piece shows the eyebolts with E6 between E7 and E8. When I look at Figure 53 showing the fender washer and it's wiring, it shows E6 above E7 and E8 as I would expect (all in order E1 thru E8). Which one is correct? I'm assuming Figure 53 is the correct one.

Thanks again for all the effort put into this prop. I hope to start working on it over the weekend.


----------



## heresjohnny

puterdoc said:


> This is coming along fantastic..........
> 
> I did run across another question. In Figure 8, the "G" piece shows the eyebolts with E6 between E7 and E8. When I look at Figure 53 showing the fender washer and it's wiring, it shows E6 above E7 and E8 as I would expect (all in order E1 thru E8). Which one is correct? I'm assuming Figure 53 is the correct one.
> 
> Thanks again for all the effort put into this prop. I hope to start working on it over the weekend.


Good catch puterdoc, thanks! I had changed the location of eyebolt 6, figure 8 is correct. I will update the how-to later this evening, I have had a few more changes come in also.


----------



## Daphne

OH MY GOSH! What an amazing prop!

Is everything in the kit pre-drilled/etc so you just put it together?

Wonder if it could be adapted to mount on a standing figure versus a wall-mount. The teenagers that drift around in my cemetery are bailing on me this year (although that could change at least 6 more times) and I need a replacement. It would be draped with white cheesecloth or something light, it just couldn't walk around.

This is just so cool. I NEVER come up with stuff like this, shoot, I have a hard time building stuff like this with the instructions! Well done!!!


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## puterdoc

At present, I am planning on mounting this on a short pole and stand it up in the middle of my cemetery. I am experimenting with a smaller backing plate (where the motor mounts) to save some weight. The main "body" of the prop will be the same.

This is a great prop plan.


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## heresjohnny

Daphne said:


> OH MY GOSH! What an amazing prop!
> 
> Is everything in the kit pre-drilled/etc so you just put it together?
> 
> Wonder if it could be adapted to mount on a standing figure versus a wall-mount. The teenagers that drift around in my cemetery are bailing on me this year (although that could change at least 6 more times) and I need a replacement. It would be draped with white cheesecloth or something light, it just couldn't walk around.
> 
> This is just so cool. I NEVER come up with stuff like this, shoot, I have a hard time building stuff like this with the instructions! Well done!!!


The kit comes with all the wood cut, drilled and pre-marked (wood only kit). The complete kit has the wood plus all screws, washers, eyebolts etc, including 2 pullys, spiderwire, and the TRW motor on request.

When covering the ghost, care is needed to keep the cheese cloth out of the lines. My blog has some pictures of the forms I used (see the contest entry), and I plan on providing more details on how I build the forms and cover the ghosts in future blog entries.


----------



## heresjohnny

puterdoc said:


> At present, I am planning on mounting this on a short pole and stand it up in the middle of my cemetery. I am experimenting with a smaller backing plate (where the motor mounts) to save some weight. The main "body" of the prop will be the same.
> 
> This is a great prop plan.


Please post pictures/video when you can, I would love to see it! I am thinking about having one of mine on top of a column on an entrace gate, if I have time.


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## RoxyBlue

I am so impressed with the amount of time and effort folks have put into beta testing this prop and helping with suggestions for improving the amazingly detailed how-to. Great job, guys!


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## dave the dead

I started assembling a beta test kit last night. First off, I have to say for anyone on the fence about attempting this build, Johnny has done an outstanding job of spelling out the step by step instructions, and it is getting better with each edit that is made. 
Second, for anyone considering purchasing a kit...It is going to be a HUGE time saver. I opened the box last night and went straight to the assembly instructions, completly bypassing the entire section on making all the wood components and going to the store to purchase the hardware pieces. Well worth the cost of the kit to get the fast track to assembly!
I am 1.5 hrs into the build( while watching tv at the same time...lol), and have already assembled the torso pivot. 

The only minor thing I would add to the how-to so far is a caution to predrill thru the 1x4's to eliminate splitting them with the wood screws when assembling the base.

creating slots in the wood dowel ends to help the glue hold can be done by crimping the dowel ends with a pair of normal pliers.


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## Lunatic

Super glad to hear that the how-to, builds and kits have become so successful! I too am extremely impressed with the time and thought put into this project. Even more so that HJ is so willing to share his design. Thanks man!


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## heresjohnny

Thanks for the kind words everyone, I really apprecaite them. I have posted a thread over in the classifieds for selling the kits. There will be a how-to update in a day or two.


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## heresjohnny

Hey everyone, updated the howto with the following changes:
1. state hole drill depths
2. resolve use of e11, e12 (kept them)
3. checklist (included with kits)
4. mark orientation of base 1x4's 
6. Correct #10 and #11 diagram to use a 1" block
7. Pre drill holes for base 1x4's
8. drill 1/16 for eyebolts, 5/64 for 3d nails
11. Correct hole size for #10-32 bolts
12. Base assembly step 5, reference fig 38 for E
13. Secure Shoulders
14. Note about 1/2 screw for Pully P1

Thanks again to everyone that has helped make this happen. I am working on a blog entry about how I built and added the forms to change the 'wooden terminator' into a ghost. Part of it will include a video where I add the forms from the original wallbreaker to the second one I built for the how-to, shown below...


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## turtle2778

Okay sooo if we purchase a kit is this the thread we search through to find the updates or will it come with updates in the box?


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## heresjohnny

turtle2778 said:


> Okay sooo if we purchase a kit is this the thread we search through to find the updates or will it come with updates in the box?


The first post in this thread has a link to the how-to that I keep updated, you would need to use the assembly portion of this how-to. That link will always point to the latest how-to. Reviewing this whole thread may help with ideas to do other things, but will not be necessary to build the kit.


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## heresjohnny

How-to updated. Minor corrections, predrilling holes in dowels for eyebolts, using aluminum stock for crank arm.


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## jjm2958

VERY cool prop! I'm definitely going to try and make one of these! Quick question though - maybe I missed it, but is there a complete list of parts listed somewhere? I didn't see it specifically in the how-to or on the blog. I'd like to go to the store to get the parts, but I'm afraid I'll miss something if I have to read through the instructions and parse out the necessary equipment.

Thanks!
Jared


EDIT: Nevermind, I'm an idiot - CAREFULLY read through the How to and saw the list later on  Doh! I was too excited about building this prop that I forgot how to pay attention.


----------



## heresjohnny

I have a parts list that I use, I will include it in the how-to next update.



jjm2958 said:


> VERY cool prop! I'm definitely going to try and make one of these! Quick question though - maybe I missed it, but is there a complete list of parts listed somewhere? I didn't see it specifically in the how-to or on the blog. I'd like to go to the store to get the parts, but I'm afraid I'll miss something if I have to read through the instructions and parse out the necessary equipment.
> 
> Thanks!
> Jared
> 
> EDIT: Nevermind, I'm an idiot - CAREFULLY read through the How to and saw the list later on  Doh! I was too excited about building this prop that I forgot how to pay attention.


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## TNBrad

ok question>>>
Do you think that this could be done useing the foam bones from walmart? to cover the arms and the hand and skull?
or would that cause to much stress on the rigging?

thank you for sharing


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## heresjohnny

TNBrad said:


> ok question>>>
> Do you think that this could be done useing the foam bones from walmart? to cover the arms and the hand and skull?
> or would that cause to much stress on the rigging?
> 
> thank you for sharing


I think that would be light enough, and I have come up with a way to compensate some for adding some weight by using rubber bands or springs (I am putting together a blog entry on that this weekend, will post when done). The way I made the forms held all the cheese cloth away from the rigging so things would not get tangled up (blog entry for that will be done this weekend also). If you are planning to have this so it was viewed at a distance, and the bones were UV reactive that would probably work, but up close the rigging would become visible.


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## TNBrad

Good tips.
I know the bag of bones I got from walmart have a wire frame in the hands


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## Brad Green

I didn't use the bones on the Wallbreaker, but the hands and skull worked out just fine without any apparent load on the motor. They don't look as nice as the ones that John made, but they do work.


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## heresjohnny

The first of a couple of posts I wanted to get out there. I tried 3 changes or additions to my wallbreaker to try and improve performance, and I think they all worked:

1. Doc Doom suggested wax where moving wood peices meet (even with a washer). Mine had developed a noisy right shoulder, and adding wax resulted in a smoother movement, and it removed the noise. Thanks Doc! I would defintely recommend rubbing a little wax (or equivalent) on the wood blocks where they touch other moving blocks.

2. Even though mine ran something like 9 hours without a hitch, I wanted to try and have a way you could compensate for any forms or decorations you added to the wallbreaker that seemed to strain the motor. I added rubber bands to some of the joints that carry the most load, and I think this will give you a way to reduce strain on the motor, and compensate for a higher load by using a stronger rubber band (or spring).

3. Dave the Dead suggested aluminum crank arms, and I now provide aluminum crank arms in the kits. In addition to increasing the reliability, using the aluminum crank arm reduced the noise that was coming from the wooden crank arm.

All three of these can be seen in this quick video.


----------



## FMX1

Hollycow Johnny! I viewed a couple of the posts and watched some of the vids’ and was mesmerized by the workings. Heck! The thing runs like an old time clock. I’ll be patiently waiting for the box to arrive. Kwel very kwel!


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## heresjohnny

Thanks FMX1!

Here is the second post. I am providing downloadable templates for the forms I used here. I am also adding this link to the first post so you don't have to search for it later. If you print these templates as letter size documents they should be the correct size.

I have added detailed directions on making the forms on my blog at http://johnnysghost.blogspot.com/2010/08/building-wallbreaker-forms.html. The video that shows the forms coming together is available below.






Let me know if you have any questions!


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## dave the dead

perfect timing! Thanks Johnny!


----------



## Brad Green

OK, I guess I'm the first to assemble one of these fantastic creations from a 'Block-Only' kit, so here's my attempt at a product review. First, let me say that John has been beyond generous in both his efforts with these kits and the amount of work he has invested in the highly detailed instructions. There's alot of work invested in the blocks alone and well worth the price. The only problem I ran into was that dowels sizes don't seem to run true from one vendor to the next which made for some loose fits, so it's best to check sizes before you start cutting. With that aside, I finished the basic build in a weekend's time and am really happy with the results, this thing is a hoot!


----------



## heresjohnny

Thanks for the update Brad! That is a good suggestion that if you get a blocks only kit, take some sample blocks to check the dowel sizes. I now make the blocks with pretty tight tolerances for wood (1/64" over for dowels that are glued, and 1/32" over for dowels that need to turn), and the dowels at Home Depot have been very consistent in size.


----------



## FMX1

I'll keep an eye out for the problems that have been expereinced when it comes time to assemble mine. I'll also head over to your site Johnny to us it also. http://johnnysghost.blogspot.com/2010/08/building-wallbreaker-forms.html
I'll be watching.
Thanx


----------



## Doc Doom

dave the dead said:


> perfect timing! Thanks Johnny!


I agree. I just finished my head and hands and am ready for the body.


----------



## FMX1

Received my kit from the mail today. Wow! It was like opening up a model kit. There's even a packing list so I can check and become familiar with all the parts. I printed the assembly instructions from your web site Johnny along with the body form templates. It looks like you’ve gone through a lot of trouble to make sure this wall breaker works as advertised.
Kwel! Very, very kwel! 
I will start the production of putting this feller together tonight. Don't kow how far I'll get, All I know is Halloween is coming up quick.


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## heresjohnny

A big Thank You to Brad Green and FMX1, there were still a few smal errors on page 31 and 32 and they figured them out, got dowels D1 and D3 a little mixed up. The how-to has been updated, the only changes are on pages 31 and 32 so this is all you would need to print out.


----------



## Lunatic

I should have responded by now. No disrespect HJ!

I received my complete kit last Saturday. Wow, it was like being a little kid on Christmas morning opening up my first Erector set. I held it closely, hugged it and pet it for awhile. I treated it like a naughty little circus pet and... well, you get the idea. The kit was firmly and methodically packed. I down loaded the templates and how-to. Loads of thought and work done. Thanks Johnny!

I read the updates in this thread and thanks to everyone for their suggestions and corrections. That makes my build way easier. I will wax the joints for a more fluid motion. 

Now I just have to get past a few personal obstacles that inhibit my build.
Dave, Doc, Brad & FMX1, you are way ahead of me. After reading the details for the build I'm getting a little anxious that I won't get it done in time. If I can figure out how to upload pix I will show you what I get done. I'm thinking of adding some motion to the bottom half of the prop.

Thanks again.


----------



## TNBrad

Great job Johnny.
I would like to see a pictures of your new aluminum design/build, you had talked about.


----------



## heresjohnny

TNBrad said:


> Great job Johnny.
> I would like to see a pictures of your new aluminum design/build, you had talked about.


The only thing aluminum is the crank arm, it can be seen in operation in the following video






It's 1/8 by 3/4 aluminum stock with 2 1/4 holes, same hole layout as the wooden crank arm.


----------



## Brad Green

wallbreaker ghost video by bradg896 - Photobucket
Here's a video of the Wallbreaker 'skeleton' (pun intended), I should have it dressed out this weekend. Please forgive the weird background vocals, I tend to forget about the mic being active when using the video function of my camera.


----------



## TNBrad

Wow Brad that looks great
Brad here lol.

Another question:
Would it change the stress levels or be to much stress on the workings...
if the hands were more ???? ummm
in a more natural position on the end of the arms?


----------



## heresjohnny

TNBrad said:


> Wow Brad that looks great
> Brad here lol.
> 
> Another question:
> Would it change the stress levels or be to much stress on the workings...
> if the hands were more ???? ummm
> in a more natural position on the end of the arms?


The weight of the hands, and how far they stick out will affect the amount of work required to raise both the upper and lower arms. You can compensate some using rubber bands and springs. I don't know how far you can push this design, I do know the setup I had with paper mache hands hanging down ran for 9 hours straight with no problem. I imagine with light hands (paper mache or foam) you could do what you are thinking. You could maybe even attach the hands via a pivot point, and have the motion of the lower arms move the hands also. Only thing I can suggest is to try it and see if it works. If it does, please let us know!


----------



## heresjohnny

Brad Green said:


> wallbreaker ghost video by bradg896 - Photobucket
> Here's a video of the Wallbreaker 'skeleton' (pun intended), I should have it dressed out this weekend. Please forgive the weird background vocals, I tend to forget about the mic being active when using the video function of my camera.


Sweet!!!!!!!! You are getting a great range of motion with the arms!


----------



## RoxyBlue

Just watched Brad's video of his kit build - LOVE the motion on this creature.

At this rate, there's going to be an army of these wallbreakers across the nation


----------



## TNBrad

thank you Johnny

I will


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## Lunatic

Looks great TNB!


----------



## FMX1

> Here's a video of the Wallbreaker 'skeleton' (pun intended), I should have it dressed out this weekend. Please forgive the weird background vocals, I tend to forget about the mic being active when using the video function of my camera.


That turned out really well, big kudos Brad. 
I have completed all of my "skeleton" (dowel and block glueing) and am now starting on the head and hands. I have had a really good time putting this prop together. I am getting anxious to see how well it will perform.

I've got to move faster, it driving me crazy!


----------



## GRP

Brad, Where did you get your skull in the video your posted?


----------



## Brad Green

GRP said:


> Brad, Where did you get your skull in the video your posted?


That's an inexpensive foam skull that was purchased at a local Walgreen's Drug last year, but I've run into them at Walmart, Spirit and Halloween Express as well. Pretty much the same skull that comes in those 'Bag o Bones' setups, you just need to glue the jaw back into place.


----------



## heresjohnny

There are foam skulls at Michaels for about $5.00, I have also found them at K-Mart.


----------



## heresjohnny

Hey everyone, a big thank you to FMX1 for finding some corrections in the how-to, these have been incorporated into the latest which is now available for download. One change I wanted to point out is that I have found chapstick to work very well for lubing the mmoving wood joints.


----------



## puterdoc

Hey HJ, thanks for the update.

I thought I'd share what I did during construction to keep the pivot points from binding. It works great. While picking up some parts at a local surplus store, I found some nylon shoulder washers that fit the 3/8" dowels. They are just loose enough to allow the dowels to turn without binding at all. You need to drill the pivot holes at 1/2" and then use a washer on both sides of the block. The shoulder portion of the washer also has the added benefit of giving you spacer where the blocks come together. These things are available all over the web, but at the surplus store they were pretty cheap.

I've still got an issue with the line rigging that I'm working on. A few of the lines get very loose whilr the motor is turning. I'm not sure why this is as I followed the How-To step by step. Anyone else seeing the lines getting loose as the motor turns?


----------



## heresjohnny

puterdoc, I am aware of 3 of the lines that will get some slack in them while turning, but I have not had any problems with them to date. The line that pulls the head back will get a fair amount of slack in it. If it is getting tangled on you let me know and I will try to devise a work around. We may be able to lengthen the dowel the line attaches to to get rid of the slack.

The other lines I am aware of getting slack are the ones that turn the head. I think the dowels that the head turning lines attach to could be lengthed to the point where there would be no slack.

If these are not the problem please let me know. I will post anything I find out looking into it.

Anyone else having any success, or problems?



puterdoc said:


> Hey HJ, thanks for the update.
> 
> I've still got an issue with the line rigging that I'm working on. A few of the lines get very loose whilr the motor is turning. I'm not sure why this is as I followed the How-To step by step. Anyone else seeing the lines getting loose as the motor turns?


----------



## heresjohnny

puterdoc said:


> Hey HJ, thanks for the update.
> 
> I thought I'd share what I did during construction to keep the pivot points from binding. It works great. While picking up some parts at a local surplus store, I found some nylon shoulder washers that fit the 3/8" dowels. They are just loose enough to allow the dowels to turn without binding at all. You need to drill the pivot holes at 1/2" and then use a washer on both sides of the block. The shoulder portion of the washer also has the added benefit of giving you spacer where the blocks come together. These things are available all over the web, but at the surplus store they were pretty cheap.


This is good idea! I have found that using the 13/32 drill bit for the shoulder holes provides just the right size hole. That, and using the washer provided in the kit, and lubing the joints with wax (I use chapstick) works well too. Not sure if as good as the solution puterdoc is offering, time will tell.


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## puterdoc

heresjohnny said:


> puterdoc, I am aware of 3 of the lines that will get some slack in them while turning, but I have not had any problems with them to date. The line that pulls the head back will get a fair amount of slack in it. If it is getting tangled on you let me know and I will try to devise a work around. We may be able to lengthen the dowel the line attaches to to get rid of the slack.
> 
> The other lines I am aware of getting slack are the ones that turn the head. I think the dowels that the head turning lines attach to could be lengthed to the point where there would be no slack.
> 
> If these are not the problem please let me know. I will post anything I find out looking into it.
> 
> Anyone else having any success, or problems?


These are the same lines I am seeing slack in. As long as they do not cause any tangling, it should not be an issue. Thanks again for a great prop idea.


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## Bob Foster

Thanks for the "how to". Very detailed. I will need to try this next year.


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## skaunit

don't laugh, but this is the one project I am creating for my decorations this year, hopefully I will be able to get it done in time.

HJ, I am having trouble finding some pulleys that will work? Where did you get the ones pictured and what were their original purpose [as in, what department?]
I checked both my main hardware chains [home depot and orchard supply hardware] and neither carried any swivel pulleys that small, or that I could mount in both fashions as shown in your pictures.

I am nearly done cutting my wood, and look forward to completing the mechanisim, hopefully by the end of the weekend.


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## heresjohnny

Good luck! I have found it takes a little longer to skin the mechanism than build the mechnism, just for your planning purposes.

I got my pully's here, which are provided with the kits.

http://cgi.ebay.com/100-7-8-Nylon-P...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item22ff9eb30b

If you cover shipping I'd be happy to send a couple your way, PM me.



skaunit said:


> don't laugh, but this is the one project I am creating for my decorations this year, hopefully I will be able to get it done in time.
> 
> HJ, I am having trouble finding some pulleys that will work? Where did you get the ones pictured and what were their original purpose [as in, what department?]
> I checked both my main hardware chains [home depot and orchard supply hardware] and neither carried any swivel pulleys that small, or that I could mount in both fashions as shown in your pictures.
> 
> I am nearly done cutting my wood, and look forward to completing the mechanisim, hopefully by the end of the weekend.


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## heresjohnny

How-to updated. The AC Vent motor needs a 12 volt DC power source.


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## dynoflyer

Does anybody have this how to? The link seems broken.


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## RoxyBlue

I sent a PDF I'd saved of the plans a while ago to Hauntiholik and she's posted it elsewhere so it wouldn't get lost. If I can find the thread where we talked about it, I'll get the link.

(moments later) - Here you go - Haunti gives a link in her post in this thread:

http://www.hauntforum.com/showthread.php?t=30295&highlight=Johnny's+ghost


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## dynoflyer

Got it! Thanks for the link to the how-to Roxy! Let's see, 196 days to Halloween, better get started.


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## heresjohnny

Hey everyone, I have fixed the link at the beginning of this thread, and on my blog. Sorry it was down for so long. Its a new way of hosting files for me, give it a try and let me know if it works for you.

WallBreaker.pdf

I've got some new designs in the works that will get away from using strings, and hopefully be more reliable.


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## RoxyBlue

Works for me - thanks for reposting the PDF for everyone

Stringless designs - sounds intriguing.....


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## Vlad

thanks HJ !!


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## SkullyBones

Man, this is the kind of stuff that makes me love Halloween forums! Thank you VERY much for sharing and for the how to. I'm adding this one to my future prop's list!


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## dan dolan

Are the links broken? I cant see anything on the How Tos.


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## RoxyBlue

Dan, I just checked the How To link and it does work. It's a PDF, so you at least need Adobe Reader to view it.

The second link to the templates is not currently working.


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## heresjohnny

I just rehosted the templates and updated the link at the beginning of this thread and my blog. Here is the link.


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## Pumpkin5

:jol:Your Wallbreaker is one of my all time favorites...thanks for the easy to read instructions.....hope they are likewise 'easy to do', Ha ha!


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## heresjohnny

Several people have made the wallbreaker, maybe they can chime in and say how easy it was. Personally I am afraid it was probably difficult. It was a cool ghost but too complicated, and too many things could make it stop working. The leer ghost was far simpler and more reliable, I hope to get plans for that pulled together some day.


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