# Using a Hertz motion light sensor to trigger a nerve center?



## mroct31 (Nov 10, 2007)

The motion light sensor runs on 110V but the monster guts nerve center only has a 12v connection on it with ground and a NO slot for triggers. I'm wondering how to use this as a trigger as I can get some real cheap right now and I know they work pretty well. I don't think just running the white wire to 12v, the black to ground and the other to the NO will cause it to work? If I buy these I can't return them or I'd buy one and test it out but I'd hate to be out even a small amount of money if it doesn't work? Anyone have any ideas?


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## mroct31 (Nov 10, 2007)

OK I'm thinking maybe all I have to run the white and black wires to a regular plug plugged into 110v then the other wire to the NO slot and with power supplied it will trigger the nerve center with the one wire just like it would do the light fixture? I was reading the nerve center manual and it says it has 12v available for triggers that need it, and as this one needs 110v I'm guessing I just wouldn't use the 12v and ground slots at all?


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## spinman1949 (Jun 29, 2009)

Mroc,

A bit confused. Can you supply a link to the sensor? Is it like the kind that has a light socket in it? Or does it just act like a switch? What powers the nerve center?


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## HomeyDaClown (Oct 3, 2009)

mroct31 said:


> OK I'm thinking maybe all I have to run the white and black wires to a regular plug plugged into 110v then the other wire to the NO slot and with power supplied it will trigger the nerve center with the one wire just like it would do the light fixture? I was reading the nerve center manual and it says it has 12v available for triggers that need it, and as this one needs 110v I'm guessing I just wouldn't use the 12v and ground slots at all?


You'll need an AC SPDT or DPDT relay with a 110v coil. Attach the coil wires as you would a normal light socket. Then you'll have isolated NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed) contacts you can wire to and trigger your controller.

Something like this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049721


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

I haven't seen any really cheap sensors. Good luck with yours. 

From the description you gave - I think Homey's assessment is correct. You need to be using relays with those sensors. There's a sticky thread under the tech terror section that explains using relays with prop controllers.


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## mroct31 (Nov 10, 2007)

I haven't found a link to the sensor online, it's exactly like the one attached to the cheap version of the Hertz Zenith motion lights you'd find at HD or Lowes. I believe it's just a replacement for those actually. The reason it's cheap is the store is going out of business so everything is 60% off. I may just go with the trigger MonsterGuts sells and not hassle with mickey mousing this item.


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## fritz42_male (May 5, 2009)

I think you mean a Heath-Zenith light?

Amazon.com: Heath Zenith SL-4151-BR1 Mission Style 150-Degree Motion Sensing Decorative Security Light, Rustic Brown: Home Improvement: Reviews, Prices & [email protected]@[email protected]@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/[email protected]@[email protected]@41xbxeWSunL

You need to wire a little 12V DC power pack/wall wart into the 110v light socket and then run the 12V DC cable to the Nerve Centre trigger points.


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## spinman1949 (Jun 29, 2009)

Fritz,

I just checked out the controller. Looks like the trigger input is just a NO or NC option. Don't think attaching a wallwart will work unless the unit is set to NC and it will respond instantly to 12 volt input. Perhaps that is why they have the NC option, but I suspect that it is for continuous loop operation. What I am thinking is that if the sensor supplies the actual voltage to power the controller, there could be a delay before it starts the routine. It is a fairly simple device. The programming is just turning relays on and off. I think the unit supplies 12 volt dc output at the relay's. I did not find a spec sheet.


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## mroct31 (Nov 10, 2007)

Actually it's this sensor just no light with it. 




The sensor has 3 wires on it, white and black which hook up with the other white and black wires from the mounting hole, and then a blue or some other color that goes to the lights. I'm wondering how it "turns on" the light from that one wire? Seems like the relay option mentioned before in the thread would be done in the sensor as from what I've seen of these lights, there is nothing more than 2 light sockets with 3 wires coming out of them but I'd hate to burn up my nerve center finding out I was wrong!


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## fritz42_male (May 5, 2009)

The white is AC live in, black is common and blue is ac power out (switched). You definitely need to use a power pack to knock the power down and then wire a 12v relay onto the end of the power pack.

I'd contact Dean at MonsterGuts to see what he suggests as well. The other opton is to get a Parallax PIR sensor and wire it in.

http://www.scary-terry.com/itw/pirsensor/pirsensor.htm


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## stagehand1975 (Feb 22, 2010)

Those sensors usually also have a timer built into them usualy a minimum of 5 seconds on time. When you connect a light to the sensor all you whites go together as a nuetral or return in ac. Power comes in on the black and as the sensor trip it send 110 out on the other color wire to turn on the light. This will not work with monster guts without a relay. An attempt to put 110v directly to the sensor input may fry it


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## mroct31 (Nov 10, 2007)

Sounds good. Guess this isn't an "easy" solution to trigger the nerve center so to speak, so I'll move in another direction. Thanks for all the help.


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## bert1913 (Oct 27, 2011)

wallmart has motion sensor lights for $10 i use a 3 input exstension cord and wire it into the sensor. (wire the female part of the cord to where the light sockets go and the male part of the cord to the black and white wires) i then wire a 12 volt relay to a 12 volt wall wart. just wire the relay to your controiller.


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