# Ideas for a Pirate Cave walls



## roadkill_be (Jun 14, 2012)

Hey folks,

I have figured my theme out and it will be a Pirate Cave with Pirates protecting a treasure.

I have a old rowing boat, I found a treasure trunk and some plastic money, jewelry and have a deal with a local Carnaval rental store that end of May I can go and pick up some pirate costumes which are not rent-able anymore but suits my needs for a few bucks

Now I need some tips for making an quick and easy to assemble cave entrance/walls

part of the cave will be in my shed so that seems to be straight forward but a part of the side-panels and the entrance will be outside in the open (the shed is not big enough to be used on itself)

I would like to make the Cave a L-shape so people can't see the setup straight away.

Because of the Belgian weather in October it needs to stand up to rain and winds.

another issue is that I have to do it myself (Halloween is still very basic here and I am still the only one who is doing it for several miles around).

last year I had about 120 people visiting my cemetery yard and even local tv has made a piece on it, so i am am willing to do more, but need tips.

Paper mache does not sound right because of the weather, but what about chicken wire and spray-foam? :jol::jol:


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## Bascombe (May 18, 2010)

I've used that method before, Roadkill. Works pretty well. When I've used the spray foam, over chicken wire, I have put some gauze or cheesecloth over the chicken wire to give the foam a tighter surface to cling to. Less overspray that way. The chicken wire gives the shape and the gauze provides a substrate for the foam to adhere to.

If you are planning to use GreatStuff or it's equivalent in Belgium, I'd consider seeing if there is a spray urethane guy there that can do it cheaper. GreatStuff is great in small quantities, but I think it can get really spendy when you're working on a big project.

Here in Idaho, we spray the insides of potato cellars with urethane foam insulation. The foam guys take pride in getting it as smooth as possible. When they work for me, I want a lot of texture. First time we did it, they were having a hard time of that, but they got over it.


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## roadkill_be (Jun 14, 2012)

Tnx, I got thinking about the cost and considering that a can of 310ml foam cost about 10-15€ per can will drive the cost op considerably and I am on a budget from the wife 

So maybe the foam approach is to costly, maybe a cheaper alternative? what about plastic sheeting, like the one people use for covering floors while painting?

still using a chicken wire mesh but covered with this plastic ans by using a heat gun for texture combined with monster mud and paint?

would it work?


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## wandererrob (Aug 8, 2007)

I think you're likely to run into problems getting the mud and paint to adhere to the plastic. Will people be able to touch the walls? If not, the paint may be ok. Monster mud may be too heavy to stay on.

It may be more time consuming, but maybe burlap over the wire then monster mud. And paint? If there's a coffee roaster near you, you might get some free/cheap burlap. Of if you have access to it, roll of jute netting or other erosion control fabric could work as well.


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## fontgeek (Jul 24, 2006)

You might consider saving/collecting blocks of styrofoam, and using chicken wire as an armature to adhere/stick it to. I'd glue the foam up into bigger blocks where possible ahead of time, then add the remaining pieces once those larger blocks are fastened to the armature, then chisel away to get the desired texture. You might use a steel brush attachment on a drill to help get the desired texture, someone else used that method to build some really nice pillars for his graveyard. You can use a can of spray foam to fillin any gaps or holes you might find or cause. Once you are done carving up your cave entrance, give it a coat of latex house paint, then you can use any kind of paint on it youwant.


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## Bascombe (May 18, 2010)

Kraft paper also works. It's stiff, creases easily and you can adhere it to the chicken wire and monstermud over it

comes in four foot rolls


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## roadkill_be (Jun 14, 2012)

ok, i tested the cave construction, and the frame and chicken wire works well, but the foam did not.

I made a frame of 2.00x2.00m to see how much foam I can get out of a can,










not much it seems so I would seem,

this is one can, so this would mean that I would need about 50-60 cans at least, at 5€ this would mean about 300€, eeeeeh not if I want to stay married.

another problem is that the foam most sold here is low expansion stuff, foam that expands ea sealy cost about 10-15 per can.

I contacted a few of those company's that do foam insulation and that would cost me about 500 €, again not an option

I had a last idea: what if i still used the frame and wire but cover it with sheets soaked in plaster and sand (for texture).

what about the weight and how to seal it from the elements?

I still want to doe it but I really need the cost manageable.

:googly:


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## Front Yard Fright (Dec 23, 2005)

You could use flat gray paint apposed to plaster. Simply dip your sheets in the paint and strain the extra paint off. Sand could still be used for a slight texture, but the paint would make it 100% weather poof.

:jol:


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## Bascombe (May 18, 2010)

Try getting mis-tinted stucco from a paint shop. I bought a five gallon bucket of that stuff for five dollars. Not sure how that exchanges with the pound, but it provides a great texture as well.


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## GCWyatt (Aug 30, 2012)

As with most construction projects, this one has three aspects and you'r only going to get two. As the old saying goes, "Fast, Cheap, Good. Pick two." But I think in this case your axiom is, "Cheap, Light, Good. Pick two." In other words, I don't think you can make this lightweight and inexpensive. There have been some good ideas, especially from fontgeek and Bascombe, namely using chicken wire, scrap polystyrene, and craft paper.

If I were you I'd build the wall out of a sturdy frame of 2x4 with chicken wire over it pulled into the rough shape of the cave surface. So I think you're very close with the frame and wire you have now. I'd add additional wood to the frame to increase stability and stiffness, and a base piece to pull the wall out at the bottom. I would then restretch the wire over the frame making it as rumply and rock-like as I could, supporting the inside of the chicken wire with more wood frame. Then it's a matter of coating the surface. If you can find a commercial urethane foam sprayer that would be the way to go, but failing that I think you'd have to try blocks of scrap foam sheet stuck to the wire and then coated with stucco. You might even try taking the little bits of urethane "pebbles" that come off the sheets when you cut them and mix them into the stucco to make it lighter. Or, if you get really good coverage out of bits of urethane sheet then maybe the canned foam might be cost effective if the gaps that need filling aren't too big.

But seriously, the first thing I would do is make the wall more dimensional. You've got a good start here, I just think it needs to pop out a bit.


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## Jaybo (Mar 2, 2009)

Front Yard has the right idea. Build the frame out of wood and chicken wire, then cover it in paint soaked sheets. They will soak up much less paint than burlap, be MUCH lighter, and withstand the elements better. Just make sure you use exterior house paint and you should be fine. Paint it black, then sponge several different shades of gray, and it will look like rock. Oh, and throw a little sand into the finish to give it that rough texture.


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## roadkill_be (Jun 14, 2012)

Tnx,I will give the sheet covered in particular paint a try


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## Just Whisper (Jan 19, 2009)

I am building a cave in my yard this year also. After asking for suggestions to add to my own I have come to a decision to make a frame from pvc bent into large arcs to act as the support structure. I am using painters canvas to cover the arcs. Then I am using monster mud and a little bit of great stuff over the canvas. I will be using scrap styrofoam and packing peanuts underneath the monster mud and GS for added texture, and adding some skeletal parts as well. This may not work for your set up, as mine will be sandwiched between a 6 foot fence and a temporary wall for added support. But it may give you some additional ideas.


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## Thrice1337 (Apr 10, 2013)

What about that spray on newspaper insulation? Then spraying something like this over it to harden it up. Don't know how expensive newspaper insulation is... just an idea.


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## Rahnefan (May 1, 2009)

Get the cheapest broom you can find and use it to spread out the foam. It will cover a lot more and give it an interesting (less foam) texture. It will ruin the broom but you will not need 50 cans.


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## fontgeek (Jul 24, 2006)

Just Whisper said:


> I am building a cave in my yard this year also. After asking for suggestions to add to my own I have come to a decision to make a frame from pvc bent into large arcs to act as the support structure. I am using painters canvas to cover the arcs. Then I am using monster mud and a little bit of great stuff over the canvas. I will be using scrap styrofoam and packing peanuts underneath the monster mud and GS for added texture, and adding some skeletal parts as well. This may not work for your set up, as mine will be sandwiched between a 6 foot fence and a temporary wall for added support. But it may give you some additional ideas.


I think you better have a super strong structure to support the monster mud.
That's a fair bit of weight to support for most PVC pipe and fittings.


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## The_Caretaker (Mar 6, 2007)

How about a kit like this:


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## Sideshow.Zombeau (May 4, 2013)

Schedule 20 PVC gives you more flexibility.
Schedule 40 PVC is roughly middle ground, and usually has the best deals.
Schedule 80 PVC gives you the strength you would need for monster mud, if you want to go that route. (Personally I wouldn't. A weather proofing stain works well for me, in Florida. )
PVC Professional glue (the purple stuff) is really strong a little goes a long way.
Keep in mind, you probably want to wear latex or latex free rubber of gloves when using PVC glue. 
If you are making a structure that people are walking under you will need to do more re-enforcement, like running another length of pipe between the angles.
PVC sounds like a cheap idea, but the costs do add up faster than you realize.
 You have been warned


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## Palmdale Haunter (Mar 3, 2012)

What about burlap?
When painted it can quite convincing and if you look around home centers it can b had in rolls in the garden area?...


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## The Pod (Sep 15, 2009)

I would suggest wood frames with chicken wire to shape. Then use burlap dipped in monster mud over the top of the chicken wire.


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## roadkill_be (Jun 14, 2012)

Tnx for the ideas, I am still not sure how to proceed, but I will get there 

anyhow? here is a step further in the experiment, it is pieces of fabric (old sheet cover) completely covered with monster mud and draped over the chicken wire.

lets see how it will work out, it is warm but windy so a good test


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## kprimm (Mar 14, 2009)

Another idea could be Monster mud, for maybe the entrance area where it will have more contact with people. The monster mud can be painted with outdoor weatherbeater type paint and then sealed with resin. I used this method on my giant monster mud reaper and have had no issues with weather for many years now.just remember monster mud is heavy but fairly strong. The chicken wire foam method would definately be better for the meat of the cave, especially behind where people will not get to it.


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## nimblemonkey (Aug 21, 2011)

I like what you've got so far! Have you got an update? Cave walls are one of my to do items for next years haunt (this year's is already planned and underway).


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

I have used cheap water based caulk to make props. I water them down just enough to make them the consistency of pancake batter then use a brush to apply in layers to paper or various surfaces. 
I wonder about squeezing 2 or 3 tubes of caulk in a bucket then dipping a cloth sheet in it and applying as a rock wall. The rougher the better and seems can be smoothed out with more caulk. It is a low tech, low cost, low weight way to get a water proof wall of rock.


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## scubaspook (Dec 16, 2010)

Check out this video as it may help with the wall issue.


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## TNBrad (Sep 10, 2007)

I can't wait to see top of the skull added


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## BioHazardCustoms (Aug 5, 2009)

Well, I've just seen this thread, and scuba has beaten me to what I was going to suggest. That is the method that I plan to use when I build my dungeon tunnel.


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## waldiddy (Aug 4, 2008)

I didn't quite catch how the guy in the video made his wall. He was painting a 4 to 1 mix of Monster Mud on what exactly? It was some kind of mesh screen mounted on a wood frame and crumpled?


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## scubaspook (Dec 16, 2010)

waldiddy said:


> I didn't quite catch how the guy in the video made his wall. He was painting a 4 to 1 mix of Monster Mud on what exactly? It was some kind of mesh screen mounted on a wood frame and crumpled?


 He was applying it to screen door mesh the aluminum kind that way it holds it shape when bent.


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## waldiddy (Aug 4, 2008)

That is very nice! I see now where his frame is just some foam boards, but I"d probably be tempted to use wood, perhaps 1x2s at least. This would be great, for doing cave walls, a theme I definitely want to try some upcoming year.


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