# Fog machine trigger?



## insanehobbies (Nov 3, 2008)

Can you trigger a fog machine from a motion sensor?


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## The Creepster (Sep 18, 2009)

Yes, but you still need a controller to fire the fog machine. The motion sensor is just a trigger device.


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## Mr_Chicken (Nov 26, 2008)

Now I don't know much about motion sensors, but I have a hunch you could hook one up to a relay, and the relay to the fog machine...


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## The Creepster (Sep 18, 2009)

Mr_Chicken said:


> Now I don't know much about motion sensors, but I have a hunch you could hook one up to a relay, and the relay to the fog machine...


can't wire 12v d/c to 110v a/c.....Bbzzzzzzzzap


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## spinman1949 (Jun 29, 2009)

*Uhhh !!!*



The Creepster said:


> can't wire 12v d/c to 110v a/c.....Bbzzzzzzzzap


I think Chicken is saying the relay will be energised by the motion sensor, and the fogger would be wired to the NO side of the relay. I suspect the demand circuit on a fogger is not 110 volt AC but more than likely 12 or 24 volt DC. It would be useless to provide main power to the fogger, because of the time it takes to heat up. So to do this sucessfully, the demand circuit of the fogger or wired remote would need to be hacked. This is nothing more than a NO momentary switch. Bypass this switch and use the relay as the switch is what Chicken is talking about I believe. If one uses a motion sensor controlled light, then a outlet plug could replace the lamp and an extention cord could be routed to a 110 volt relay. The hacked demand circuit of the fogger gets wired to the NO side of the relay.

Oh and here is a post from another forum you may find interesting.

http://www.halloweenforum.com/halloween-props/79749-hacking-motion-sensor-fog-timer.html


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## insanehobbies (Nov 3, 2008)

Thanks you for your responses. This is what I have---- 110v motion sensor set on test (black, red, white) wires, black (hot) red (trigger) white neutral. Fog machine pluged in keeping warm--- remote on fog machine (black, light gray, white) wires. The switch on the fog machine (when you flip it connects two of them together). So this is my? If I buy a relay 110v NO and connect it to the (red & white wire) on the sensor and the two wires on the fog remote will this work. I'm kind of new at this stuff and I don't know if my thinking is correct on the one.


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## insanehobbies (Nov 3, 2008)

I failed to mention that this is for a MIB project and I'm using a PC power supply to run my wiper motor with the 12v. Is there a relay that I could use that is NO that I could connect to the 5v of that power supply to connect to the remote on the fogger or could I connect both the wiper motor and the relay to the 12v. My thinking was that with both hooked up to the 12v that it would draw too much and not run the wiper properly.


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## spinman1949 (Jun 29, 2009)

*Relays*

A relay is a switch. And just like a switch they are available in various configuratiuons. I suggest you google relays and see what you find. But the quick answer to your question is yes. You need to understand that a relay is just a switch that is activated by a magnet. All you are doing is completing a circuit, and depending on what type of relay you get, you can in effect control a number of circuits. Now to be clear, depending on the throw configuration of the relay, you will control circuits in groups of on or off aspects. What I am trying to explain is this. With a Double Pole relay, you can have a 110 volt circuit on one pole and a 5 Volt circuit on the other. Each pole is isolated from the other. I hope this helps.


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## asterix0 (Nov 5, 2008)

If you're trying to drive the relay with 110V consider this relay http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049721&currentTab=features&tab=#showReviews. However, if it were me, I'd use as little 110V as possible and simply buy something like this http://www.pimpmyprop.com/RelayTimerDetails.htm. Spend a few dollars and don't electrocute yourself or others.


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## The Creepster (Sep 18, 2009)

asterix0 said:


> If you're trying to drive the relay with 110V consider this relay http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049721&currentTab=features&tab=#showReviews. However, if it were me, I'd use as little 110V as possible and simply buy something like this http://www.pimpmyprop.com/RelayTimerDetails.htm. Spend a few dollars and don't electrocute yourself or others.


lol everyones afraid of the big bad 110a/c


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## Otaku (Dec 3, 2004)

The Creepster said:


> lol everyones afraid of the big bad 110a/c


Not really, some are just not as comfy with it as others. If one's understanding of it is limited, it's probably best to err on the side of caution until one gains experience and wisdom.

And don't forget Murphy's Law.


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## The Creepster (Sep 18, 2009)

Otaku said:


> Not really, some are just not as comfy with it as others. If one's understanding of it is limited, it's probably best to err on the side of caution until one gains experience and wisdom.
> 
> And don't forget Murphy's Law.


you write fortune cookies too?


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## fritz42_male (May 5, 2009)

The Creepster said:


> lol everyones afraid of the big bad 110a/c


What Otaku said. We use 240V - worse. An electrician I know was electrocuted so if it can happen to a trained person with 2 decades of expertise it can happen to one of us.

Always use an ELCB or RCD somewhere in the circuit. I for one could never forgive myself if someone got hurt at my haunt.


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## spinman1949 (Jun 29, 2009)

*I concur.*



fritz42_male said:


> What Otaku said. We use 240V - worse. An electrician I know was electrocuted so if it can happen to a trained person with 2 decades of expertise it can happen to one of us.
> 
> Always use an ELCB or RCD somewhere in the circuit. I for one could never forgive myself if someone got hurt at my haunt.


As a technician working on pretty big equipment, I have been zapped more than a few times in my career. Never the pleasure of 220 or 240 thank god. But to make fun of someone stating to be cautious around electricity in general is to my way of thinking in poor taste and somewhat irresponsible. Being comfortable around electricity is a sure way to end up dead. I am sure the Creepster was kidding to some extent. Course he may be a bit adled since he claims to be 95 years old. I guess I have been replaced as the old fart around here.


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## 5artist5 (Jul 10, 2007)

I have actually decided that I am going to use all AC relays and solenoids wherever possible from now on. I am tired of mixing and matching dc voltages all the time. And really AC relays are much easier to find.


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## fritz42_male (May 5, 2009)

spinman1949 said:


> As a technician working on pretty big equipment, I have been zapped more than a few times in my career. Never the pleasure of 220 or 240 thank god. But to make fun of someone stating to be cautious around electricity in general is to my way of thinking in poor taste and somewhat irresponsible. Being comfortable around electricity is a sure way to end up dead. I am sure the Creepster was kidding to some extent. Course he may be a bit adled since he claims to be 95 years old. I guess I have been replaced as the old fart around here.


Snap. My original teacher used to wire up all sorts of booby traps. You would go to open a door or pick up a toolbox and you would get a (non damaging) shock. After a few weeks of this, you automatically made fleeting contact with ANYTHING before picking it up.

I've still had more shocks than I like to think about but never anything serious. The worst I've had was trying to find a dry joint in a TV and getting zapped by the high tension output on the flyback trannie - it actually destroyed part of my fingerprint and I had a small hole in my fingertip for a while.

Play safe guys - it isn't worth the risk.


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## Fester (Sep 17, 2006)

I used this method last year to trigger a LiteFX 700 using the remote that came with the fogger:

http://www.automat3d.com/electronics/motion-sensor-switched-output-hack/

I just spliced onto the two wires that wire connected to the switch itself in the remote to close the switch and fire the fogger.

The only drawbacks were that I felt that the test setting was a little too long and that the motion sensor does not take into account the warm up period on the fogger.

Here is a thread that I had asked on getting a little more control over the fogger by using an interval timer that gave me some good feedback.
http://www.hauntforum.com/showthread.php?t=18251


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## insanehobbies (Nov 3, 2008)

First I would like to thank everyone for there help! I've purchased the Radio Shack version which is #275-0218 DPDT 10a at 110v or 24vdc. Now the hard part, I haven't connected on of these before, and it has 8 prongs for connection!!!! This is what i have. Fogger with remote, remote has three wires black green and white. There is power to the black and green 110v when the fogger is warm when I flip the switch the power is then on white and black 110v when the switch is turned on. On the other end I have the motion sensor 110v with black white and red wires. I know the black and white are power on and red is trigger on. I'm thinking that if I turn fogger switch in the on position and disconnect the white wire and connect it to the relay (not sure witch prong) and solder on to the black wire and connect to relay (again not sure witch prong) then use the red and white from the sensor I'm in business. Just not sure how to connect to the relay. If someone could help me out I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks again.


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