# Making a connector for 4RPM gear motor



## Spooky1 (Aug 25, 2008)

I've seen a number of folks ask about where to find a connector for the small 4 RPM gear motor used for many animated props. https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-1587&catname=electric

My answer is to make one from connectors that can be found in an old computer power supply.

C001 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

You can make a number of style of connectors work.

C002 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

C003 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

Just cut a section of 2 free with a box cutter.

C004 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

C005 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


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## Spooky1 (Aug 25, 2008)

No haunter should be without a dremel! Grind down the edges till it will fit into the connector slot. Depending on which connector you choose you may need to do quite a bit of grinding.

C006 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

C007 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

C008 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

These motors are 12 volt DC output, 10 mA motors. You'll need a Wal-wart 12 volt power supply. The mA shouldn't matter, I've used 150 mA and 500 mA power supplies so far. https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=15-1117&catname=electric

C009 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

This power supply came with a connector I had to cut free.

C010 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


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## Spooky1 (Aug 25, 2008)

Wiring 101

C011 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

C012 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

C013 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

Connect to lines from the motor, and cover with electrical tape.

C014 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

C015 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


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## Spooky1 (Aug 25, 2008)

This bolt fits perfectly into the motor for the crank shaft.

C016 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

Add crank shaft of aluminum, wood or whatever. 

C017 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

And away you go!

Movement Video by SpookyTJ | Photobucket

Thanks to Roxy for taking some of the pictures and helping organize the pics in photobucket.


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## weaz (Sep 11, 2010)

Very useful. Thanks alot!


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## dave the dead (Jan 31, 2007)

well documented spooky1. That is exactly how I have been making connectors for this motor.


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## niblique71 (Dec 2, 2009)

Excellent post Spookie,,, Thanks


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## Bone Dancer (Oct 7, 2005)

Yes, excellent job on that, thanks.


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## IMU (Apr 8, 2009)

Yippie! Thanks for doing this AND Roxy for the pics!


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## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

Spooky thanks for the How to - The only problem with this type of connection is that the tabs in the motor case a lot of times does not touch the motor contacts. That is why this motor seems to have some bad units. It is only because the contacts are not touching the motor tabs. Two fixes one is to bend the tabs wider inside the case (think battery clip) or what I do is remove the clips completely solder the wires directly to the motor, file a small channel in the plastic and add a little hot glue in the area where the clips were. the glue is to keep the wires from being riped out. Once you have the wires coming out of the motor you can you any kind of plug that you want or even add a switch.


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## Vlad (Aug 2, 2005)

Great how to. My favorite part is the use of sharp objects and power tools with unprotected hands, lol. Are you a member of the NJ make and take group? heehee, Just teasing. Very clear How To, Thanks!


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## austenandrews (Aug 22, 2010)

How are you fixing the screw to the motor? I can't get 1/4-20 screws to fit without pounding or screwing them in, which seems like it will damage the plastic. Or is the screw solution designed to attach once and leave it there?


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## Denhaunt (Aug 18, 2006)

Great job guys. I just got a pile of these in the mail this week - perfect timing!


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## The Pod (Sep 15, 2009)

Very nice! Excelent solution for making a connector to these motors.


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## Spooky1 (Aug 25, 2008)

austenandrews said:


> How are you fixing the screw to the motor? I can't get 1/4-20 screws to fit without pounding or screwing them in, which seems like it will damage the plastic. Or is the screw solution designed to attach once and leave it there?


I'm able to screw it into motor just using my cordless drill.


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## RoxyBlue (Oct 6, 2008)

hpropman said:


> Spooky thanks for the How to - The only problem with this type of connection is that the tabs in the motor case a lot of times does not touch the motor contacts. That is why this motor seems to have some bad units. It is only because the contacts are not touching the motor tabs. Two fixes one is to bend the tabs wider inside the case (think battery clip) or what I do is remove the clips completely solder the wires directly to the motor, file a small channel in the plastic and add a little hot glue in the area where the clips were. the glue is to keep the wires from being riped out. Once you have the wires coming out of the motor you can you any kind of plug that you want or even add a switch.


Is this a problem you've seen with the motor itself or just when using this type of connector? We haven't had any issues so far with any of these, but good to know that it's a possibility and how to address it if it happens.



Vlad said:


> Great how to. My favorite part is the use of sharp objects and power tools with unprotected hands, lol. Are you a member of the NJ make and take group? heehee, Just teasing. Very clear How To, Thanks!


Vlad, you are such a hoot We consider ourselves honorary non-voting, non-appearing members of the NJ/PA Make 'n' Take:googly:.


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## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

austenandrews said:


> How are you fixing the screw to the motor? I can't get 1/4-20 screws to fit without pounding or screwing them in, which seems like it will damage the plastic. Or is the screw solution designed to attach once and leave it there?


The 1/4 20 all thread bolt will thread right in there. It will cut its own threads in the plastic. If you want to be able to remove the arm or use the motor in a different prop then I would just thread a length of 1/4 20 threaded rod into the motor spline by using a pair of nuts (one jammed up against the other). I have been able to thread these with a ratchet just start slow. Also I forgot to mention that they should turn counter clockwise against the normal thread direction. if it rotated clockwise it could unscrew the bolt from the spline if it jammed or caught on something. I would not recommend unscrewing the bolt once it is in there. it might damage the threads

Roxy - I have not seen this issue myself because I never used the pins I have soldered wires to all of my motors buy I have heard of others getting some bad motors that did not work. One some of my motors that I opened I did see that the pins were not making contact with the motor tabs.


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## austenandrews (Aug 22, 2010)

hpropman said:


> The 1/4 20 all thread bolt will thread right in there. It will cut its own threads in the plastic. If you want to be able to remove the arm or use the motor in a different prop then I would just thread a length of 1/4 20 threaded rod into the motor spline bu using a pair of nuts (one jammed up against the other). I have been able to thread these with a ratchet just start slow. Also I forgot to mention that they should turn counter clockwise again the normal thread direction. if it rotated clockwise it could unscrew the bolt from the spline if it jammed or caught on something. I would not recommend unscrewing the bolt once it is in there. it might damage the threads


Cool, that was my question. A rod instead of a screw solves the problem nicely.


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## beelce (Jul 21, 2007)

Great how-to Spooky......
Very helpful....thanks


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## Devils Chariot (May 23, 2007)

hpropman said:


> Spooky thanks for the How to - The only problem with this type of connection is that the tabs in the motor case a lot of times does not touch the motor contacts. That is why this motor seems to have some bad units. It is only because the contacts are not touching the motor tabs. Two fixes one is to bend the tabs wider inside the case (think battery clip) or what I do is remove the clips completely solder the wires directly to the motor, file a small channel in the plastic and add a little hot glue in the area where the clips were. the glue is to keep the wires from being riped out. Once you have the wires coming out of the motor you can you any kind of plug that you want or even add a switch.


I have been doing this, but I am intrigued by your idea spooky1.


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## zandiver (Oct 14, 2010)

I just bought me a motor like this for my FCG. This is what I was looking for. Thanks!


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## diggerc (Feb 22, 2006)

What is the secret to making the Motor link to work


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## Spooky1 (Aug 25, 2008)

I'm not sure what you're asking?


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## diggerc (Feb 22, 2006)

NM facepalm when i first looked at this thread the word "motor" was in red as if it was a lonk th the source to buy them, Now they are all green........I swear -___-


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## RoxyBlue (Oct 6, 2008)

D, here's the link (hopefully in green) for the motor if you were looking for it:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-1587&catname=electric

It's in the first post, too.

I just checked the link for the power supply mentioned a bit further down in the thread and the site no longer carries them, so clicking on that one won't take you to the item.


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## diggerc (Feb 22, 2006)

Thank you that worked


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## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

Diggerc if you need power supplies for these motors - I will have a bunch at the M & T on Sat if you are coming adn can give you some


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## loach160 (May 20, 2011)

RoxyBlue said:


> D, here's the link (hopefully in green) for the motor if you were looking for it:
> 
> https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-1587&catname=electric
> 
> ...


http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-276/5-RPM-GEAR-MOTOR-12VDC/-/1.html


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