# Great Motors



## jabberwocky

Thought i would pass this along.
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/searchprods.asp
Ive used a few myself and the are great for only costing $6.
Really good torque and alot smaller then a wiper motor.


----------



## pyro

no product shown


----------



## DarkShadows

This it?

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G16034


----------



## TommaHawk

That's it - I recently bought two of them. I found, somewhere, that these were used in GMC, Scion and other US vehicles, so I thought of looking for the wiring harness (or the female connector at least) as well. Without success, it looks like we can cut/dremel out the plactic around the male connectors with ease.

Very excited to get these into use! The $6 sale only lasts 'till 7/1!


----------



## turtle2778

So how do you power this then? The reason for using the wiper motor was the ease at which you could power it. I like the much smaller size, but i would need help with the powering up.


----------



## TommaHawk

You'd power them just like with a regular wiper motor: 12vDC. Once you have the power tabs exposed you can solder your wires to them or use quick-connects. Reversing the polarity, or the wires themselves, will reverse the direction of rotation. Lesser voltage will slow the thing down. If you're using a computer ATX power supply, kudos!


----------



## Sickie Ickie

I wish I had known about this yesterday...I just bought three other motors more expensive.


----------



## Evil Bob

5 rpm. FCG speed...


----------



## scream1973

Looks good


----------



## dave the dead

I'll testify to these motors....a fellow haunter gave me a few and I love them! They work great off a small amperage wall wart and have quite a bit of torque....best of all they are whisper quiet. Well worth the $6.


----------



## Phil

This looks like a power window motor. Haven't used this model but they are generally rugged.


----------



## Revenant

Bob Andrews said:


> 5 rpm. FCG speed...


... or a Leer. Or even just a head turning back and forth, looking around... slower is creepier, after all.

What I like is the super low amperage. I think I need to get me some of these and play!


----------



## Phil

Fed-Ex man brought my motors today and I am happy! Absolutely quiet and functional torque. Much quieter than the rotisserie motors I have used. 
The plastic case snaps apart and the connector pins are easy to completely remove for soldering wire.
Will have to get the FCG together to see if the speed looks good.


----------



## Troy

careful guys, this motor is only rated for intermitten duty!


----------



## dave the dead

Troy said:


> careful guys, this motor is only rated for intermitten duty!


I have two of them on my newest animated prop and ran it successfully for over 8 hrs at a time several sessions this weekend. My application is very light duty, but I foresee no troubles.


----------



## Terrormaster

I am curious myself and would love to see some examples connecting to the shaft which is only a 1/2" gear. This could be a suitable alternative (definitely cheaper) to the reindeer motors I want to use in my witch and stirring cauldron project I'm currently working on.

Dave if get anything functional by the weekend please post some pictures. I'm ordering my motors (along with the electronics for the talking skull hack) this weekend. I need three motors total and if I can shave a couple bucks off the grand total (which is looking to be somewhere close to the $300 mark) by getting these instead then all the better.

-TM


----------



## dave the dead

Terrormaster said:


> I am curious myself and would love to see some examples connecting to the shaft which is only a 1/2" gear.
> Dave if get anything functional by the weekend please post some pictures.
> -TM


Not sure what you mean Terrormaster? Are you wanting to know how I made and connected a shaft to the motor?


----------



## Terrormaster

dave the dead said:


> Not sure what you mean Terrormaster? Are you wanting to know how I made and connected a shaft to the motor?


Yup. Maybe it's the lack of sleep but just having a hard time envisioning it.

-TM


----------



## dave the dead

Terrormaster said:


> Yup. Maybe it's the lack of sleep but just having a hard time envisioning it.
> 
> -TM


ok, cool...It is actually really easy on these motors...I just threaded in a 1/4 -20 bolt to act as the motor shaft and drilled a small hole thru the motor sleeve and the bolt to pin the shaft in place. If you need pix let me know and I'll snap a few tonight. The crank arm can then just be drilled and be installed directly on the bolt/shaft.


----------



## midnight_moon

dave the dead said:


> I have two of them on my newest animated prop and ran it successfully for over 8 hrs at a time several sessions this weekend. My application is very light duty, but I foresee no troubles.


Dave, what new project are you working on?
Whatever it may be, I know it's going to be awsome!
I can't wait to see it, I hope you will post pics when it's done.


----------



## Terrormaster

dave the dead said:


> ok, cool...It is actually really easy on these motors...I just threaded in a 1/4 -20 bolt to act as the motor shaft and drilled a small hole thru the motor sleeve and the bolt to pin the shaft in place. If you need pix let me know and I'll snap a few tonight. The crank arm can then just be drilled and be installed directly on the bolt/shaft.


Cool, a couple pics wouldn't be bad... I'm used to working with the reindeer motors which already has a cam arm attached. Since they're DC I wonder how many of these I could run off of a single wall wart at one time before reaching noticable slow down. I'm considering powering my stirring cauldron witch with three of these babies (one for the cauldron and two for the neck) utilizing either a single wall wart or worse case (if I can find a spare in my junk pile) an ATX power supply.

-TM


----------



## Terrormaster

Anyone know how many of these we can run off a single DC 12v source? I'd like to run 3 if possible via an ATX PSU. It's a 400w PSU if that helps any.

Thanks,
-TM


----------



## Otaku

Depends on the current draw of the motor. Do you have the specs? Keep in mind that most times the stated current draw is with no load.


----------



## Terrormaster

From the website "unloaded current draw is 20mA at 12VDC". Also, since the PSU has a common ground for each voltage is there anything special I need to do on the end circuit? I would have one feeding from the +5v (the audio driver circuit) and the motors on the +12v. I have some experience with electronics but its all amateur type stuff and I've never built anything that ran off two separate voltages.

-TM


----------



## turtle2778

Okay i went on a limb and bought some of these. I currently use rotisserie motors which are pretty good, but a little loud. Im hoping these are pretty easy to wrok with and from the sounds or lack of sound on Dave's bluebury they are quiet which is great.


----------



## Terrormaster

Yea! Mine are in, now just need to pick up the stuff I need to mod the shafts and I'll be ready to mount them. Tested them each with my ATX supply and they are amazingly quiet and pack a good bit of torque. Despite having to Jimmy rig a cam on to the shaft these things are well worth the price and the time it takes to do so.

As soon as I get the stuff for the cam, Black Agnes (my stirring witch) will be motorized.

Thanks Jabberwocky and Dave the Dead!

-TM


----------



## jabberwocky

Im glad everyones making good use of these............................... 
is there any kind of finders fee? hahaha..................... no, seriously.


----------



## TommaHawk

Sure! If you can find it.


----------



## corner haunt

This is what it's all about helping each other find good deals. Heck!, even not on sale it's a pretty good deal.


----------



## midnight_moon

I bought a handfull of these motors, but have no clue how to run them.
What is a wall wart that I hear so much about? Is this something I need
to get for these motors?


----------



## Phil

These motors need 12 volts DC (direct current). Common sources for DC are batteries or power supplies. A wall wart is a small and low current power supply packaged in an oversized AC plug, like this:








PC power supplies provide 12, 5 and 3.3 volt DC at a higher output current, but for these little motors a simple 12 volt wall wart should suffice.


----------



## dave the dead

midnight_moon said:


> I bought a handfull of these motors, but have no clue how to run them.
> What is a wall wart that I hear so much about? Is this something I need
> to get for these motors?


Phill is right on this...no need to overkill it with a pc supply. I have powered these motors with as little as 4.9 V dc and they run fine. 
You can buy Wall Warts just about anywhere that sells electronic devices or batteries....check yardsales for old phones,printers,calculators,radios,r/c car chargers, etc....make sure it converts a/c voltage to D/C though.


----------



## midnight_moon

Thanks Phil and Dave. I didn't think it was that simple. I was thinking a wall-wart was some kind of electronic board I had to put together. LOL!!


----------



## Revenant

I just bought 4 of these guys. Already have a few ideas.

Damn. That sale will be over next week. Should have ordered more.


----------



## dave the dead

*New Best Price!!!!!*

OK Haunters.... check this out!!!

How's $2.99 sound for these motors?

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008063018195822&item=5-1587&catname=


----------



## buckaneerbabe

I already have more motors than I have projects for! Guess I'll just have to think up a few more at that price!! :biggrinkin: Thanks DtD.


----------



## Phil

Nice site Dave, they also have 12V SPDT relays with socket for $2.99!


----------



## Bilbo

Can anyone tell me the shipping cost (estimate is all right) for a couple of these motors? I'm at work and cannot give my email address on that webpage and would like to budget for some of these. 

Either the $6 versions or the $3 ones DtD found. Both, preferably!

Thanks, kudos and appreciations in advance


----------



## naberhoodhaunts

Bilbo Shipping is around 8.95 priority mail with a 2.00 handling fee. weight is about the same so either one shipping should be the same. That is for three motors


----------



## Mazz

I see nothing about torque on these guys.


----------



## Revenant

Mazz said:


> I see nothing about torque on these guys.


Ditto. The ad says "Originally made for use in automotive air-conditioning vents." I can't think of anything inside an A/C vent that would need much muscle. This may be the equivalent of a reindeer motor.


----------



## Phil

These definitely aren't wiper motors, but they have more torque than the reindeer or rotisserie motors that I have used and they are whisper quiet. They are rated for intermittent duty but have been reported to serve 3-4 hours of continuous operation under moderate load with no trouble.


----------



## Revenant

Phil said:


> These definitely aren't wiper motors, but they have more torque than the reindeer or rotisserie motors that I have used and they are whisper quiet. They are rated for intermittent duty but have been reported to serve 3-4 hours of continuous operation under moderate load with no trouble.


Are these the same motors? I mean the pictures on the ads look the same but... The ones on Electronic Goldmine that the thread is about draw 20 mA at 12V unloaded, while the ones on Surplus Center draw 10 mA. A difference of 10 mA isn't much I know but in this case it's one drawing twice the juice, which seems a significant difference.

I guess for 3 bucks a pop it's worth a shot anyway. Motors is motors if your props are lightweight enough.


----------



## dave the dead

Revenant said:


> Are these the same motors? .


well, I'm not 100% sure...even the rpm advertised is different...5 rpm vs 4 rpm. My guess is they are the same motor, but having purchased a decent supply from E/G, I really have no need to get more right now....next time I purchase it will be from Surplus Center.

Don't misunderstand the potential use for these....this is not a replacement for a wiper motor or a Dayton...these are intended for minor animations where weight is not an issue.


----------



## Revenant

Hey dave, ya think these things have sufficient oomph to drive a Leer prop? Or would I be better off using the wiper motor for that?


----------



## dave the dead

Revenant said:


> Hey dave, ya think these things have sufficient oomph to drive a Leer prop? Or would I be better off using the wiper motor for that?


 If you are using a blucky or have a very lightweight body then I would think so...most of the weight factor is transferred straight down so the motor really is only turning a somewhat balanced load....it would be worth a try.


----------



## Revenant

WooHoo! I got my motors finally! They're much smaller and lighter than I expected.

Now... guess I have to get up off my ass and actually build something. *_sigh_*
It always comes down to that eventually...


----------



## Terrormaster

Ah, yes it does - I too was not expecting the small size and light weight. And since the torque load wasn't heavy, simply threading the bolt in worked perfect with pinning it.

-TM


----------



## corner haunt

Revenant said:


> Are these the same motors? I mean the pictures on the ads look the same but... The ones on Electronic Goldmine that the thread is about draw 20 mA at 12V unloaded, while the ones on Surplus Center draw 10 mA. A difference of 10 mA isn't much I know but in this case it's one drawing twice the juice, which seems a significant difference.
> 
> I guess for 3 bucks a pop it's worth a shot anyway. Motors is motors if your props are lightweight enough.


$3 bucks where did you see that!? I thought they were around $6. Is that from Surplus Center?


----------



## TommaHawk

There's a link for the $3 in this thread somewhere... post #35. I ordered some but the shipping just kills you.


----------



## Doc Doom

Thanks for th elink! I've been looking all over for something like this. Just ordered three. I've got plans for two for hitchhiking ghosts and who knows with the last one?

dave the dead,
I'd love to see a pic of your shaft attachment if you ever took one.


----------



## GPSaxophone

Ground shipping is $7 regardless of how many you order (well, it may go up if you order a lot of them) but I decided to get 3 instead of 2 because of this. I need a better motor for my FCG and this just may work for me.


----------



## Doc Doom

Got my motors today. Anybody figured out an easy way to attach an arm for a FCG? Will epoxy work or should it be a more mechanical connection?


----------



## Phil

Dave mentioned simply threading a 1/4-20 machine bolt into the shaft per his grave popper thread.
Worked well for me without even tapping.


----------



## Doc Doom

Thanks for the idea. I'll give it a try.


----------



## dave the dead

Sorry for the lateness of an answer Doc Doom, but Phill took care of this one for me...tap a 1/4-20 bolt right into the center of the shaft.

The question of 'intermittent duty' has been put to rest. I successfully ran my headpopper prop from last Thursday evening straight thru to Sunday evening with absolutely no problem. If you keep in mind these are for light duty applications, you will not be dissapointed.


----------



## BTH

I used the shaft that turns vertical blinds left and right. Didn't quite fit but if you place a small piece of shaft in a drill motor and file some of the ridges down, it will fit the inside of the motor shaft perfectly. Pin it or glue it in and now you have a shaft from the motor. These little motors are great.


----------



## Doc Doom

dave the dead said:


> Sorry for the lateness of an answer Doc Doom, but Phill took care of this one for me...tap a 1/4-20 bolt right into the center of the shaft.


No problem. I took Phill's advice. The first one went in a little crooked but the other two are straight as can be.

I used the first one to power my floating candleabra. It's runs 6 hours a night, every night, for about two weeks.

The other two power my hitchiking ghosts. The upper movement is great but I'm having some torque/power issues with the one that operates the whole movement. I think the problem is something is rubbing/binding somwhere and not the motor.

I'm gonna order four more for next year.


----------



## Daphne

Help! My stirring cauldron witch currently consists of a head and a cauldron (that thankfully is stirring) and it is the 19th! I ordered 4 of the Surplus Center motors but can't find anywhere that can help me with connectors. Ace said they had nothing and Radio Shack looked at me like I was nuts. I realize some of you are scavenging from other "stuff" but I don't have any "stuff". I would have thought something like http://www.frys.com/product/2604752 would work (this is what the connector looks like on the wiper motor connector I got from MonsterGuts) but they are too big. I have an adjustable AC adapter (3V-12V) I was going to use but am not even sure that is the right thing.

Do I need a connector for each prong on the motor since the adapter has a connector that looks like a headphone adapter? What kind of wire do I need to get to hook the connector too?

There is a Fry's about 20 minutes away or perhaps I need to hit just an electrical place? If Ace doesn't have it, I assume HD/Lowes wouldn't either?

Sorry for the stupid questions. I'm not sure if my German Shepherd or I have less electrical knowledge. Probably pretty close....


----------



## Phil

Daphne, 
Slide terminals as you pictured will work if they are of the right size for the pins of the motor. I couldn't find any small enough. 
Likewise, if you have access to any old connectors from PC power supplies, Dave reported that the largest connector block from a computer power supply can be separated it into individual two prong connectors. The pin spacing is good but the connector itself needed trimmed to fit.
It was easier to me to simply snap open the case and splice directly to the wire leads from the motor, eliminating the male pins altogether.
Whichever method you choose, you do need to connect both leads from the motor. When you cut the headphone-looking connector off the wall wart and cut off a little insulation, you will find two wires inside. The configuration of which wire from the wall wart goes to which wire from the motor will determine the motor direction.
Hope that makes sense!


----------



## Daphne

Phil, thanks SO much for replying! Man, I do NOT know what I'd do without all of you!!!

I don't have any old connectors so let's go to option B.

I have the motor opened up and at the risk of SI having a field day with this.... I assume the two prongs sticking out of the case are the male pins we are eliminating?

"Splice directly to the wire leads from the motor" This means the 2 tiny prongs with a hole in them coming directly off the cylindrical motor correct? Ignore both the prongs sticking out of the case AND the extension of them sticking straight up just inside the case? The two parts that stick up just inside the case don't even touch the 2 little prongs on the motor. Everyone stop laughing, I warned you I was clueless. Even my shepherd is laughing now...

So all I need to do is separate the wire, stick one side of it through each of the tiny holes in the prongs coming directly off the end of the motor, twist the wire around the prong to hold it in and then splice the other end to the wall wart? Do I have to solder or anything inside the motor or is twisting sufficient? Do I have to rip the external prongs out so the case will shut? I assume there isn't enough room to have the wires exit the case?

What kind of wire do I get to do this and can I get it at HD? I do realize that where I connect to the wall wart I'll need to use electrical tape or one of those conical connectors you twist on since it won't be protected like inside the motor case.

Also, this adapter has several sizes of a headphone jack as well as a 9V jack. Would it be easier to attach to the 9V jack since one side is negative, one positive or am I making this too hard?

Thanks SOOOOO much!


----------



## Phil

The two prongs are what we are eliminating. Your description of connecting the wire directly to the small motor terminals is accurate, but you really do want to solder them.
Even with the terminals removed you will probably have to file the case a little in order for it to snap closed tightly.
The wire can be relatively small gauge - I think I used stranded 18 or 20 gauge.
I am not sure I understand the question about the adapter, but I assume that it has selectable voltage in which case you should use whichever adapter makes for the cleanest and easiest splice to the motor wire.


----------



## Daphne

OK, go get 18 or 20 gauge wire, rip out the external prongs for the wire to go through, prepare to file the case and go find the soldering iron. I'm on it!

The adapter has adjustable voltage (3-12V) but it has several connectors including one that looks like it would hook onto a 9V battery. I will go with the simplest path!

Thanks Phil!


----------

