# HeadPopper How-To



## dave the dead

I have made a modified version of the BairdManor Headpopper prop. This prop was the group project at the IN/KY Make N Take for August, 2008.

Thanks to BairdManor for the inspiration.
http://www.my-mania.com/halloween/headpopper.html

My version utilizes the same mechanism, but has a much smaller (and less expensive) motor. This version is designed to use a styrofaom head or skull since the motor will not lift as much weight as the wiper motor used by BairdManor. This mech will work with a 30 in tall tombstone, but can be easily modified to fit other size stones.

Materials: ( all purchased at Menards other than the motor/wallwart)
16" square of 1/2 inch plywood, cut in half (two 8" X 16" pieces)
20"long 1" X 4" wood slat
1/8 X 1/2" aluminum bar stock, cut into 5" and 25" lengths
3/8" X 4-1/2 inch lag Screw Eye 
two 1/4-20 X 1.5" Bolts
three 1/4-20 Nuts
two 1/4" lock washers
one 1/4-20 locking nut
two 1 1/2" wood screws
Motor http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008063018195822&item=5-1587&catname=
12Vdc wallwart










Start by assembling the platform as pictured. Screw the wood slat in the center of one of the plywood pieces and then screw the two plywood pieces together to form an 'L'. Drill a 1/4 inch hole sixteen inches from the bottom of the wood slat, and install the Lag Screw Eye.









Drill a 1/4 inch hole in each end of the small aluminum bar. This will become the crank arm. Install the 1-1/2 inch bolts, nuts, and lock washers as shown.









Thread the bolt shown into the motor shaft. It may be necessary to use a 1/4-20 tap to make threads inside the motor shaft. 









Screw the assembled motor/ crank arm to the 4"wide wood slat. Make sure to align the motor shaft with the center of the slat, and that the crank arm has approx. 1/2 inch clearance at the platform base.


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## dave the dead

Next, install the 25" long piece of aluminum stock thru the lag eye screw and onto the crank arm bolt. Loosely secure it with a locking nut, leaving space for the long bar to rotate freely on the crank arm.

















Secure the foam head or skull to the top of the aluminum bar.Secure the tombstone to the front of the platform, making sure the foam head or skull does not hit the stone while the motor is rotating.(add in a spacer board between the platform and the tombstone if necessary. 









behind the scenes video
headpopper prop :: headpopperprop.flv video by davethedead - [email protected]@[email protected]@http://vid105.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid105.photobucket.com/albums/m240/davethedead/headpopper%20prop/[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@m240/davethedead/headpopper%20prop/headpopperprop


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## Ghoul Friday

Thanks Dave. I GUESS this is as good as being there in person for the make and take *kicks heel into the dirt*...I guess.


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## sharpobject

thanks Dave - bookmarked it for next year.


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## Devils Chariot

I got mom in law to try this as her first "fancy" prop. Thanks for the great tutorial Dave!


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## Tyler

http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CgWRUz15TQ
Ok here is the prop.


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## beelce

thanks Dave...looks easy


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## Runfromron

Great looking prop, Dave!

The only concern I have is that when I looked on the Surplus Center link, it listed the motor as "intermittant duty". 

I made the mistake of buying an intermittant duty motor (actually, two of them) from them a few years ago, not realizing it until I had them in my posession. They refused to take them back, since they are an electrical item, and I was stuck with two half-horse motors that would kick out on thermal overload after running for a minute or two. Hope you don't have the same problem.

Ron


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## dave the dead

Runfromron said:


> Great looking prop, Dave!
> 
> The only concern I have is that when I looked on the Surplus Center link, it listed the motor as "intermittant duty".
> 
> I made the mistake of buying an intermittant duty motor (actually, two of them) from them a few years ago, not realizing it until I had them in my posession. They refused to take them back, since they are an electrical item, and I was stuck with two half-horse motors that would kick out on thermal overload after running for a minute or two. Hope you don't have the same problem.
> 
> Ron


Not to worry about the "intermittent duty"...I have several of these motors in use this year, and have tested them for 6 to 8 hours at a time with absolutely no problem.


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## Holyhabanero

Thanks for the howto Dave. I'm putting this on my must have list.


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## edwood saucer

Fun work - great job!


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## Phil

simple and effective is a great combination. thanks for a solid how-to. 
where did you find connectors to fit the motors?


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## farewell_goodbye2u

Very creative. thanks!


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## midnight_moon

Thanks for the how-to Dave! This will go great in my cemetery!


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## Aelwyn

Very cool! I might just have to give this a try next year.


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## dave the dead

Phil said:


> simple and effective is a great combination. thanks for a solid how-to.
> where did you find connectors to fit the motors?


Phil, as with any good prop, the connectors are hacked from something else. I took the largest connector block from a computer power supply and separated it into individual two prong connectors. The pin spacing is perfect, but the connector itself needed trimmed slightly to fit. I can post pix if you need them....:devil:


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## Lady Nyxie

I want this one too.


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## fg4432

I really like this idea and thank you Dave for sharing. One thing I thought about some more though, was the movement across the top of the tombstone. If someone wants to just have a head pop straight up and down, could this be the way to do it? (If this is a repeat which is probably is, sorry in advance)

straight movement2 on Flickr - Photo [email protected]@[email protected]@http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3069/[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@973c29cdbc

A - Head assembly connected to your rod, thru two eye lag bolts, to a metal plate. That metal plate would work to allow up and down movement without allowing the rod assembly to move sideways. 
B - Wiper motor assembly showing the dashed movement or arc of what it would follow. Place a bolt through the end of your crank arm that had no threads for smooth movement and a couple of washers to keep your square plate (A) from slipping off.

Any opinions on this?

Also, if you wanted to have sideways movement instead of up and down you could easily take the plate and attach it with the slot going up and down.


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## CreepyCanmore

Great prop. Another project to steal...er, adopt....thanks for the posts Dave.


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## Fiend4Halloween

Great find ! Kinda' looks like Casper.....hey!!! That's a good idea, Casper !! Time to get sculpting !!!


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## dave the dead

fg4432 said:


> I really like this idea and thank you Dave for sharing. One thing I thought about some more though, was the movement across the top of the tombstone. If someone wants to just have a head pop straight up and down, could this be the way to do it? (If this is a repeat which is probably is, sorry in advance)


I think the simplest way to get an up and down motion would be to add a second eye bolt to create a vertical track for the head bar to follow.
http://www.flying-pig.co.uk/mechanisms/pages/reciprocate.html

I just may have to try this out...it would be a nice change-up since I plan on having several of these...thanks fg4432!


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## Lilly

that looks good dave ...
Hmm that gives me an idea for the up and down
would that work if it was horizontal/ what would the weight limit be on that also?


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## dionicia

This is cool. 

I'll have to pick up a few of those motors. 

Having a Make and Take in a few weeks.


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## fg4432

Lilly,

I would say weight limit is all in how much structure the prop has and what parts you use. If you use smaller or thinner metal then you have a higher chance to bend things in the process. All is fair in trial and error.

Dave,

Adding a second eye bolt will not necessarily keep your prop head more up and down, it could cause your motor to swing outside the available arc that the two eye bolts would allow and simply stop your motor or start bending/breaking parts. However, your link to the up and down motion is a little more complicated to make, imho. You have to keep your head attachment in a track system and provide another bend/rotation point near the top. If you find that you have the parts for either way, I say go for it. Best of luck.

Felipe


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## Revenant

Dave -- I thought I posted this last night but for some reason it's not here today -- I see you're using one of those black plastic gear motors. I have a few as well and have been wondering what kind of load they can carry. I'm making a small skull (little smaller than adult... maybe Bart sized) out of Celluclay. I want to then put a couple layers of guaze/Creepy Cloth on it for a sort of wraith/reaper hood. Think this will still be light enough for one of those motors? I hate to use a rotisserie motor for this application because the ones I have make a racket when you position them upright.


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## Spooky1

That's a great prop. I'll have to put it on my list for next year, but I'll buy a few of those motors soon. Thanks for the how-to.


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## dave the dead

I believe you are right Felipe....didn't really think it thru.

Revenant...as for the weight load...all I can say is give it a try. I briefly tried a bucky skull on this setup and the motor was laboring quite a bit. Lighter would obviously be better, but just how much weight will a cheap little motor move? 

I don't know...let's ask Mr Owl....


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## morgan8586

thanks dave


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## AnubisCrypt

*Power Supply*

Dave,

I saw you used a walmart 12vdc power supply. Do you know what the amperage was for that powersupply that you used? I have noticed that there are quite a few variances on that from .5 to 3.3 amps.

Thanks,
Randy

PS. I like your version of the prop, much cheaper at the end of the day than using a wiper motor.


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## AnubisCrypt

Dave,

Nice prop, I like the fact you incorporated another motor. It really cuts down on the cost when that can be done.

Question: What amp powersupply did you use? THe 12vdc plug in type vary from .5 to 3.3 amps.

Randy


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## dave the dead

AnubisCrypt said:


> Dave,
> 
> Nice prop, I like the fact you incorporated another motor. It really cuts down on the cost when that can be done.
> 
> Question: What amp powersupply did you use? THe 12vdc plug in type vary from .5 to 3.3 amps.
> 
> Randy


It is a very low amperage supply...300 milliamps if I remeber correctly...will check later today.


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## dave the dead

The smallest wallwart I have used with this motor is 9Vdc 200mA. I don't think you will have any trouble with a small amperage, AnubisCrypt.

In other news, I made a mock-up of the reciprocating mech this evening to provide an up and down head movement....It is an easy set up that involves a crank arm, a linkage twice the length of the crank arm, and the main "piston" rod that the head will be mounted to.( I will be using 1/2 inch pvc as the track to guide the piston rod) I should be able to put this modification together and get some pix this weekend...thanks for the prod on the different motion, fg4432!


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## fg4432

Always happy to push people's buttons, er ideas.

Could always throw a setup behind a tree to spook people waiting in a line. 

One of the things that scares me the most isn't the guy who starts up the chainsaw, it's the monster/prop that appears from nowhere right beside you almost silently or around a corner. Best prop I ever have used was my wife... she was standing in plain sight and dressed up as a witch, she wouldn't move until a couple of the people walked by asking if she was real. 

Felipe


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## dionicia

Great How-to Dave. I have one question though, what gauge of wire and type of connectors did you use to connect the wall wart to the motor? Can't see it from the pictures.

Gonna have some folks over this weekend to build a few of these. 

Thank you.


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## dave the dead

dionicia said:


> Great How-to Dave. I have one question though, what gauge of wire and type of connectors did you use to connect the wall wart to the motor? Can't see it from the pictures.
> 
> Gonna have some folks over this weekend to build a few of these.
> 
> Thank you.


the connector is hacked from a computer power supply. The main block of connectors on the supply are all hooked together in a run of 8 or 9 individual connections. The pin spacing is the right size for the motors, so I just sliced the connector into individual 2-wire connectors. I haven't found anything else that works any better for these little motors.


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## dionicia

Where did you get the wire connectors if you don't mind me asking? Computer store or auto shop?


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## dave the dead

dionicia said:


> Where did you get the wire connectors if you don't mind me asking? Computer store or auto shop?


I have a bunch of computer power supplies scrounged to operate wiper motors...the connectors are from them.


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## dionicia

Hi.

We made one of these today at a Make and Take. We switched out the 25" aluminum bar for a 1/2" PVC pipe and switched out one of the bolts for a 2" I believe and the prop ran like a trooper. It turned out better than the windshield wiper one I made last year. Just need to make a tombstone that is the right size and Leroy is ready to go. 

Thanks again for posting this.


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## lowdwnrob

Well Dave I finally finished mine the other day. I had to cut down the 25" piece and the board that holds it so I could use a smaller tombstone. I hooked it up and my daughter loved it. Thanks for the help and time getting the materials together.


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## drazster

Wow, I love this prop for it's simplicity and it's effectiveness. Great job. I would love to try a version of this.


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## dave the dead

drazster said:


> Wow, I love this prop for it's simplicity and it's effectiveness. Great job. I would love to try a version of this.


This is exactly what I love about the design, and what inspired my to try the wonderful tutorial from BairdManor.


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## dionicia

We came up with this one last week. A friend of mine was able to get it to move up and down.

http://azhaunters.ning.com/video/video/show?id=2259168:Video:1722

Now I just need to learn how to embed a video.


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## ithurt

I just got three of these motors and had a little trouble with 'em.
I tried a 12vdc 500 ma wallwart, and it just vibrated. then I used an adjustable wall wart rated from 3.5 to 12 200ma it would work from the lowest setting up to 9v, but not on 12v.
the web site says they are 12 v. So I then used a 14V wall wart and it worked fine. Do you think 14v is to much? I like the speed of the 14v.
anyway cool little motors very quiet and surprisingly strong.

thanks for the tutorial and link to the motors 
oh yeah the power supply connectors work great


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## skarson

*My first HeadPopper*

Well, here is my first attempt. Many thanks to Dave the Dead for a great how-to!!!!

I was unable to find the correct computer power supply connector to use, so I cut off part of the housing around the connectors and soldered the wire directly to the terminals. I then slide on heat shrink over the terminals, then covered it with Gorilla glue to seal it up. I used a 9volt 600ma Wall Wart to power it, and I spliced @ 15' of 18/2 cable to be able to place it anywhere in my small front yard, without the need of another extension cord. I picked up a tombstone at Walgreens for $7, some hardware at Menards, and I had the rest of the supplies around the house. My 6 yr old had a blast painting everything black, and he made sure he got everything. I still have to properly mount the skull, but I'm happy with it.


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## dionicia

Where did you get the hands at?


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## skarson

The skull head and the hands are from a bag of bones, I bought at Walgreens for $10, to make some spider cocoon victims.


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## dave the dead

Looks good Skarson! My only tweak would be to cut up those hands and re-glue so it looks like they are gripping the tombstone. The motion is flawless.

ItHurt...are you sure your 12v wart was DC and not AC? I hooked up two different AC warts carelessly, and they did the same thing you are describing.

Glad everyone is finding this useful...please be sure to thank mymania for the original how-to (bairdmanor) since this is where I got the idea from. All I have done is re-size everything to work with a different motor.


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## -ND4SPD-

What was used for a power supply. I didn't see it in the parts list but saw it in the picture? Also did the motor come with the connector & lead wire to splice into or did you have to solder the wire directly to it?


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## dave the dead

-ND4SPD- said:


> What was used for a power supply. I didn't see it in the parts list but saw it in the picture? Also did the motor come with the connector & lead wire to splice into or did you have to solder the wire directly to it?


Power supply is a 12vDC wall wart. Amperage can be very small...in the range of 300mA or lower will be fine. You can use smaller voltage, but 12VDC will give you full power and torque.
The motor does not come with the wire leads. You can solder directly to the it like Ithurt did, or if you are lucky you can find a matching connector.


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## skarson

Ok, I had to make some adjustments, due to the fact that our yards in the city are so small, I could not place the gravestone anywhere in the yard, and not expose the linkage to someone walking to or from my house. So my solution was to cover the linkages with a thin black Plastic tablecloth, and I used Insulation support wires, to make a frame to keep the plastic from getting caught in the linkage. I also slide a spine piece, from the bag -o -Bones, onto the long aluminum stock, to cover it, then I attached the black plastic to the spine, then I checked for clearances, and tacked the plastic to the tombstone, making sure it did not bind, or get pinched , in the linkage, as it moved through it's cycle. No time to fix the hands this year, they'll have to do, and maybe I'll replace the plastic with a thin cloth.

Thanks again for a great and easy to follow how-to.


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## octoberist

dave the dead said:


> I think the simplest way to get an up and down motion would be to add a second eye bolt to create a vertical track for the head bar to follow.


The project I'm linking to achieves the straight up and down movement by adding some rails. I made a prop based on it and it came out very nicely. (It does add more weight and I opted for a rotisserie motor.)

http://perronhalloween.homestead.com/pkboo.html


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## -ND4SPD-

Just wanted to say thanks for this great how-to. I stole a lot of the idea's & added some of my own twists.

- bracket for power supply
- adjustable crank 
- stakes to secure into the ground


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## -ND4SPD-

I liked this project so much, I'm already planning a similar prop. I'll post more as that seperate project comes along.


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## ithurt

my head popper ran awesome all night. sweet little motors.
thanks dave!


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## -ND4SPD-

Here's a quick little vid I made in the garage. Thanks to everyone for the info & letting us all steal your idea's!

http://s277.photobucket.com/albums/kk57/ND4SPD27/?action=view&current=MOV05025.flv


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## dave the dead

Nice solution with the eye-bolt retainer...I'll bet that really helped smooth out the motion.


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## -ND4SPD-

dave the dead said:


> Nice solution with the eye-bolt retainer...I'll bet that really helped smooth out the motion.


It does. I'm still playing with it as the aluminum on aluminum causes some rubbing noise. Some grease/ lubercant helps a lot with that. I also tried using duct tape & it as just as good as keeping the head from flopping around.


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## Haunted Bayou

Very nice tutorial. 
I like the face and hands that light up.


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## -ND4SPD-

I wish I could take credit for that but originally I started out with a glow in the dark skull I had laying around. 

I set out on a search of the local Halloween, costume, theatre stores locally to find some hands to go with it. I stumbled across the head & hands I used kind of un-expectedly. It's actually suposed to be a store bought prop that you lay in your yard to look like someone's coming out the ground. I recoginized the prop from a youtube video I'd seen of someone else's head popper they had made with the same guy. 

I liked how the hands looked like they were grabbing something already. Figured they'd be perfect for this project. I didn't know it lit up till I got home. The factory actually wired the hands up to the wrong sides so I took that opportunity to cut the wires, extend them a bit (since I already hand them cut), & soldered the hands back on the correct sides. 

FYI- For my setup's crank ratio & movement it would have still worked with the factory length of wire but it was pretty close to being tighter then I'd like to see.


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## Phil

*Meet Bob*

Had to make one of these for the graveyard and it was popular with the kids. My wife named him Bob after his endearing end-of-cycle head bob. Big thank you to Dave!


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## Spooky1

I'm heading to Home Depot this weekend to get the materials for this, and will get started once my motors come in.

Tyler, what did you use for the hands on your tombstone? I like the added touch.


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## Tyler

They are actually the dollar tree ones, heated, and then bent. I then wood staind them.


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## MikeS

How much power does the motor have? Would it run a flying crank ghost? Would it rock a rocking chair?


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## dionicia

I was checking out surplus center and I came across this which might be good for this project. http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009080216132747&catname=&item=11-2232


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## mroct31

MikeS said:


> How much power does the motor have? Would it run a flying crank ghost? Would it rock a rocking chair?


I just got three of these motors and while they seem robust with decent torque I'd be hard pressed to use them in a FCG or rocking chair prop. First off my rocking chair has a full size bucky on it so weight would be a concern. They might run a FCG but since I have a Dayton on mine and don't need another one I'll never know until someone else tries it!
Just a FYI, as I wasn't sure based on reading the part of the computer power supply you want to use is the motherboard power connector off of any computer power supply which works perfect for these. These connectors are in rows of 2 so if you cut off 2(just like slicing bread) with the wires attached, may need to trim a bit, it fits right onto the power connectors of this motor making it very easy to hook up a wall wort. I know it was mentioned early in this post about using the big connector from a power supply just thought I'd clear it up a bit!


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## Hallow

Thanks Dave. i just recieved my motors and tested them for hours they have no problem running for long periods of time. These motors are great for this type of animated project. I can't believe how powerful this motor is for just three dollars. Great find


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## Gothyc Designs

Ressurecting a thread here...lol. Anyways, I built one of these props and developed a problem with mine......squeaking ! As the arm was moving up and down for the skull to do its rotation, the metals started squeaking. I'm curious if its because I used a aluminum flat stock as mentioned or should I've used steel? I even used tape on the edges to help quiet it down. But after a bit, it wears thru the tape and then again its squeaks.

So any ideas on how to cure this problem if anyone had the same problem? Or direct me to a thread explaining the fix? ThX


GD


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## dionicia

White Lithium grease will help. I got a tube and it stopped the squeaking on mine.


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## jdubbya

dionicia said:


> White Lithium grease will help. I got a tube and it stopped the squeaking on mine.


Good to know. One of mine squeaks terribly so this will hopefully do the trick. Thanks!


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## lowdwnrob

I used electrical tape on mine and it was fine all night.


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## Roger144

*motor question*

THe forum's are cool and the props are cool. I have a question regarding the motors. (Motor http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...-1587&catname=). What do you use for the male plug? According to customer service the motor doesn's come with one.


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## heresjohnny

Roger144 said:


> THe forum's are cool and the props are cool. I have a question regarding the motors. (Motor http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...-1587&catname=). What do you use for the male plug? According to customer service the motor doesn's come with one.


You can break off the tabs around the connector and solder the wires directly to the tabs, or you can use a plug from a computer power supply and cut the plug into pairs of connectors (if you search a little in the forum I am sure you can find specifics on how to do this).


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## weaz

These motors seems to have so many uses. Thanks for the how to.


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## HauntCast

I'm working on this project right now. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the tute.


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## Creep Cringle

WHy have I not made one of these yet! Great job!


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## dave the dead

Creep Cringle said:


> WHy have I not made one of these yet! Great job!


Seriously, Creep...WHY???? Lol. Good luck, and be sure to post up your prop when finished!


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## Jooky

Does anyone know of another site to get these motors? Surplus center is out of them and their site now says that they are discontinued.


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## Pumpkin5

:jol: DTD (dave the dead) thanks for starting this post and to all the members who have posted their versions. I am so excited about getting one of these made this year. I love the way the Headpopper moves from side to side. Thanks for sharing, one of these guys will make my graveyard even better! Maybe I will add some LED eyes to mine. :jol:


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## BobC

Surpluscenter does not carry this motor anymore. Where can you buy them? or does anyone know a good replacement?


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## psyko99

BobC said:


> Surpluscenter does not carry this motor anymore. Where can you buy them? or does anyone know a good replacement?


This sucks. I only bought five when I ordered mine, thinking I could always order more.

The only place I could find is All Electronics. Of course the price is higher, but Surplus Center always got you on shipping.


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## coolbotz

I use the 16163982 black vent motor in my props. $5 apiece.They turn @ 150 degrees but are easy to modify for continuous rotation. They have a control line for direction and pot feedback. They run on 12vdc but probably need 5vdc too for microcontroller interface.


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## RoxyBlue

^Kindly let people who are interested know where they can find that motor for $5. I'm not seeing it anywhere for less than $90-100. I even checked under the new part number (89018365).

Also, so as not to hijack Dave's thread, please continue the discussion of motor availability here:

http://www.hauntforum.com/showthread.php?t=27860


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## coolbotz

Look on Ebay for black vent motor or flying crank ghost motor.


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## -ND4SPD-

Just wanted to update this thread with my latest little tweak to this prop allowing the head to move smoothly up & down.

I used kitchen drawer slider to isolate the vertical movement from the rotational movement (think piston in a motor). The drawer slider was like $12, It's self contained, rolls on ball bearings, is strong & worked great.










Halloween 2011 :: 10-4-11004.mp4 video by ND4SPD27 - Photobucket

Halloween 2011 :: 10-4-11005.mp4 video by ND4SPD27 - Photobucket


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## dionicia

That's brilliant. Yet another advancement in the evolution of the head popper.


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## psyko99

dionicia said:


> That's brilliant. Yet another advancement in the evolution of the head popper.


I echo Dionicia. It looks like that would hold up quite well. I noticed the lights in front. Were you going to use the motion sensor to trigger the prop and light it?


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## dave the dead

dionicia said:


> That's brilliant. Yet another advancement in the evolution of the head popper.


Yep..great upgrade! I have done similar with a push rod threaded thru two eye bolts...same concept but not nearly as smooth. Cool idea!


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## -ND4SPD-

psyko99 said:


> I echo Dionicia. It looks like that would hold up quite well. I noticed the lights in front. Were you going to use the motion sensor to trigger the prop and light it?


Exactly. I use the motion sensor to trigger the light & fog machine last year (since I didn't get the prop finished).










Took me 3 attempts before getting the movement I was looking for. I was never really able to get the other methods I've seen others use to work correctly. Lots of issues with binding or not getting the amount of lift I needed. For this particular prop "Samara" from "The Ring" rising from the well I wanted something smooth.


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## mrdonl

been using those motors for several years without issues


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## turtle2778

Anyone have any idea where I can get 4-5 of these motors or a substitute one? I need them for a MNT to do this prop?? Help!!!


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## RoxyBlue

Closest substitute is probably this one:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?catname=&qty=1&item=5-1702


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## Lunatic

Real nice smooth mechanism ND4SPD. Thanks for sharing!

However, I must say that the Dave-the-Dead version is what I made some years ago and I still love the dual motion....up, around the top of the tombstone and back down. Also, my prop speed varies due to the weight of the prop head moving up slowly while the motor is under load. It creeps out and over the top and then speeds up on the way down as if it's quickly hiding back behind the stone. Not designed that way but works out well to look more of a random movement.


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