# Paper Mache



## Evil Queen (Mar 8, 2008)

What is your favorite method or recipe? 

I've seen the instant paper mache at the craft stores and I was wondering if anyone uses it. 

Does glue, flour or liquid starch work better? 

What about strength and durability?


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## Cassie7 (Sep 16, 2007)

Well, I've been using water/flour/woodglue and it's quite strong. I do one or two layers with paper and the final layer with gauze for added strength.

I coat the finished product with a couple of coats of latex to seal and protect it.

This is my first year using it and it's strong as hell but only time will tell how well it holds up to weather.

You've got it in my head now to do a little test piece and set it outside to see what happens.


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## beelce (Jul 21, 2007)

I have had good luck using "fabric mache"...I found $1 per yard fabric at wal-mart (100% cotton...looks like heavy linen)... I use slightly thinned waterproof carpenter's glue. (THE KIND WITH WOOD FIBERS IN IT) First I coat the object with a medium coat of glue. Then immediately press the dry fabric into the wet glue...then another coat of glue on top the fabric.... The fabric drys in about 3 hours, and you can coat it again if you want it heaver. Easy to paint and each layer of fabric is as thick as 6-8 layers of paper mache.


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## Bethene (Jan 19, 2008)

I use Celluclay, instant paer mache, and finish the prop head using paper clay, per a Tutorial by Lauriebeast. What I like about the celluclay is it is very easily molded to the shape you want it, it comes kinda powdery, and mushy clay like substance when water is added. I have used strips of paper and news paper before, but find this works better for what I need, example, cut the bottom of the face off a wig head, wired the jaw open and am building up the jaw with a open mouth, and you can just stick wads of the maches where you need it, almost like using clay. It is sturdy when dry. After using paper clay on the finished project, (last year, made 2 prop heads this way, I painted them and then sealed with a matt clear finish for sealant. They were out side , we didn't get alot of rain so not sure how they would of done with alot of rain, plan on coating again this year, maybe using marine varnish to be on the safe side.


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## Vlad (Aug 2, 2005)

Hi EQ. A commonly asked wuestion, and you'll never get two people to exactly agree on method or formula, lol.
My favorite mache is a cooked mache.
3tbl spoons flour to 1 cup water and 1 tsp. salt
Heat your water and salt, slowly stir in the flour, use a wisk if you have one.. Cook simmering for a few minutes till it thickens, remove from heat and let cool. If it becomes too thick it can be thinned with water.
Flour mache mixes are the cheapest to make and as hard as glue mixes when finished. Their downside is their tendency to mold if not properly sealed, and that they attract mice if not stored indoors. Sheds and barns are a no no for flour mache props.
Glue mixes are easy to make, but you'll be spending on the glue. Their plus side lies in their more water and critter resistant nature.
The material you use with the mache mix is as varied as can be. Black Cat uses drier lint. I prefer newspaper and make my own type celluclay. As you've heard from others, some people use fabrics and material, using mache much like monster mud.
I've never been a proponent of celluclay. For what it costs, you could buy latex and cotton balls, and cheesecloth and have a waterproof prop when you're finished without worrying about storage or moisture damage. 
Try them all until you find what works best for you. There really is no right answer, or one that is "the" best.


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## Black Cat (Aug 20, 2005)

I personally can't stand working with paper mache. I tried a few times but the mess factor got to me so I devised another mache that suited my needs. 
Dryer Lint Clay. I can make several batches at one time and keep it in a ziplock bag. Mine doesn't stay long in the bag as I tend to use it up quickly. I've molded with it over styrofoam heads and wire forms. My newest use for it is to apply the lint clay over any surface and sculpt with it on my tombstones.
It dries hard as a rock. 
Here's my recipe for Dryer Lint Clay if you want to try it:
1/3 cup warm water
Approx. 2 cups dryer lint
6 tablespoons of Cheapest white glue you can find
1 tablespoon of liquid dish detergent
Mix with your hands until smooth consistancy, but not wet. Add additional lint if needed in sm. bits.


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## beelce (Jul 21, 2007)

BC- Dryer lint clay has got to be the ultimate form of recycling...and sounds like it works better than celluclay...as for cheap white glue...I get mine at wal-mart during the back to school sale. They sell the small bottle for 19 cents. Last year I bought 80 bottles. Still have some for this years work.


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## morgan8586 (Aug 30, 2006)

I use water, elmers glue and corn starch. The website I got my recipe from is attached....

http://www.home.earthlink.net/~tekvov/id2.html


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## Joe Boo (Feb 27, 2008)

I use Celluclay too, I like it because it is easily molded into shape.
And I use the water, starch and glue recipe, with paper strips.

It all depends on what effect you want.
And your personal preference.

I've heard of the dryer lent clay, but haven't tried it yet.


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## Bethene (Jan 19, 2008)

I will have to try the dryer lint clay some time, when my celuclay is gone. 
I always get my celuclay at either Michaels or Hobby lobby with the 40 % off coupons, so it isn't too bad price wise, it isn't as cheap as the paper, flour. glue mache, but I can mold it like clay, so I find it more useful . 
The dryer/lint mache sounds similar, will definately have to try it!


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## Evil Queen (Mar 8, 2008)

Thank you all for your responses. It's helpful to hear the pros and cons for everyone's favorites.

Personally I haven't used paper mache since Junior High so I'm a little rusty.

Vlad thanks for the heads up about the flour mache attracting critters. We have enough problems with rats without attracting, feeding and providing bedding for them.

Black Cat the dryer lint clay sounds like something I could handle. With 5 of us in the house, dryer lint abounds.


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## tot13 (Jul 25, 2007)

1/2 liquid starch to 1/2 water


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## Otaku (Dec 3, 2004)

I keep it simple - white glue and water. I vary the ratio depending on the load requirements. Paper towels make up the bulk of the "paper" I use, but for parts that are load-bearing or need to be sculpted a bit, I use those fancy soft napkins. When soaked in a thick mix they get almost like a clay and after drying will be very hard. Works well for adding joint support for extended arms and necks etc. I buy the glue in gallon jugs.


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## Austin:) (Jun 13, 2007)

I used 2:3 ratio ( flour to water ) for my pumpkin rot pumpkin. Worked really well, and it's pretty hard.


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## bolt (Apr 1, 2008)

*the paper*

this is my first post, so please forgive me if I do it wrong.

I spent many years as a prop builder and scenic designer and paper mache items were a specialty of mine.

while many glues worked very well, I often found that it was the paper itself that made a huge difference.

my favourite is the brown paper grocery bad. it is a very strong paper with a long oriented fiber. Tear the bag apart and remove any machined edges. place the paper pail of warm water for a couple of minutes, then scrunch it all together into a ball. This will make the paper very flexible. paint a layer of glue onto the working surface, unfurl the paper ball and "paint" a layer of paper over the piece. I generally tear off pieces that are about six inches square, and smaller pieces for intricate work. long narrow pieces work well on curves. I built the desk in this top picture using this method http://www.westerncanadatheatre.bc.ca/amadeus.htm and all surfaces (walls, floors, organ, chairs) in the pictures on this page http://www.westerncanadatheatre.bc.ca/orphan.htm were done this way. the method creates an extremely strong cover surface and allows you to cover everything from very small items to huge items. it is however not great as a sculpting product.
hope this is helpful.
Bolt


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## DeadSpider (Feb 3, 2006)

Hi Bolt! (I think i have spoken to you thru a few emails in the past - about brown bags) I agree - the brown bags are uber strong.... altho not that easy to come by I find.

Welcome to the forums, you should go to the member intro section and introduce yourself to everyone.  You are only a few hours away from me! Yay, another person from BC!


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## beelce (Jul 21, 2007)

Thanks Bolt....ALL methods are helpful...this group is always looking to improve our skills and our haunts...thanks for passing along your experience..WELCOME


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