# Fog machine revival - fixing foggers with little or no output



## charlie

I've had an American DJ Fog Hog for 10 years. It has been perfect in every way, good output + reliable. I have never done any sort of cleaning and it has worked perfect... until last year. A few days before my haunt I brought it out of storage and it worked great for the first few cycles, then the output decreased dramatically. After a more minutes it was putting out almost no fog, I could hear the pump humming though. I called AMDJ asking about buying a replacement motor but they were no help at all. I tried running distilled water and vinegar through it and it just got worse.

Later I found a PDF about disassembling the pumps and cleaning them, so I tried it. I cleaned the piston, spring, and housings with a rag and water - oiled them and put it back together. It began outputting at a higher volume, but the next day it was back to nothing. So, I repeated the process only this time instead of oil I used Vaseline. I brought the fogger out again this year and it worked, however the hose from the tank to the pump was leaking (it was dry rotted).

I went to Home Depot and bought the closest thing that I could find, it is a little larger than the original hose though. WHAM! The output is every bit of what it was when I bought it 10 years ago, possibly ever more.

Overall I spent about $3 and a few hours.

Here is a link to the PDF that I used - essentially I only looked at the pictures to see how the pump would come apart. I used my own cleaning method - http://wolfstone.halloweenhost.com/_LocalMirror/How to Resurrect a Fogger.pdf

charlie


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## Darkside

Thanks, I hadn't seen that. I had one die last year. I opened it up took it all apart cleaned everything, but never did get it going again.


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## Sickie Ickie

I wonder if your hose was clogged, too?


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## charlie

Sickie Ickie said:


> I wonder if your hose was clogged, too?


I don't think mine was actually clogged, but it was very narrow compared to the one that I installed now - and it had some cracks around the ends which I think reduced the amount of juice being sucked in by the pump.

charlie


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## wandererrob

Thanks for posting this!

I've got a dead American DJ fogger here that was about to get trashed. I'll give this a try and I've traced the trouble to the pump not pumping.

Here's hoping!


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## heresjohnny

I have 2 foggers, one that has weak output and one where the fogger heats up but the ready light does not come on. I'll try the instructions out this weekend, thanks for posting.


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## Moon Dog

In one of my past jobs, repairing foggers (along with all kinds of DJ & band equipment) was one of my daily routines.

Great work!


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## heresjohnny

Moon Dog said:


> In one of my past jobs, repairing foggers (along with all kinds of DJ & band equipment) was one of my daily routines.
> 
> Great work!


Do tell! Any ideas about the ready light not coming on? I'm thinking loss connection or bad thermal switch. Anything that can be done about a bad thermal switch?


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## charlie

I received a new type of fog fluid today - the instructions said to run distilled water through the system before adding the new fluid. I followed the instructions and then added the new fluid. Within 10-15 minutes the fog output began decreasing dramatically and the pump began to act as if it was going to seize up again. I removed the new fluid and put the old stuff back in, within 3-4 cycles the output was completely restored and it was running great.

This is exactly what happened last year when I added TheatreFX fluid. The fluid that I am using that it works great with is green, but I have no idea what brand. I am trying very hard to find out what it is and where to get more because the density of the actual fog is incredible and it seems to lubricate the pump much better than the other brands I have tried. There is a local store that sells Rosco fog juice (which is available in green) so I am going to get some on Monday and give it a shot.

charlie


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## sherry

My fog hog is not working, getting ready to disassemble the pump and clean it like the pdf explained but before I do that just wanted someone to tell me if that is probably the problem. It heats and the lights are on but it will not do anything else and i don't even hear a hmming sound from pump. Guys let me know what you think before i tear into the pump to clean. Thanks alos


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## Vlad

A trick I use to get a seized pump going, is to take a large syringe, like a kitchen baster, and fill it full of fog juice, then when the fogger is heated, and the ready light on, and remote activated, shoot the fog juice down the tube. It often will unseize the pump, and or dislodge blockages and air pockets, other likely culprits.

HJ, Sometimes the ready light not coming on, is the result of a bad contact where the remote plugs into the machine. Try unpluging and repluging the remote repeatedly to make contact.


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## Otaku

These guys sell fogger parts:

www.americandjparts.com

Some of them look pretty generic and may work in different foggers. Early next week I'll be posting a how-to that deals with repairing a plunger valve failure in the pump. I've found that many foggers use the same oscillating magnet pump design, so it may help those with dead pumps.


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## sherry

*Help*

I am new at this so would u guys please help me out. I have a AMDJ mobile fog hog machine that will not work. It heats and the green light comes on but when i push the remote for fog nothing at all happens. You cannot hear or see the pump respond at all. I have tried taking the pump apart and putting it back like the pdf said but still nothing.
Is it in the pump or could it be in the switch someway. Is it possible that the pump can burn up and be impossible to get started again. Any suggestions or help you guys could come up with would be greatly appreciated. Thanks alot


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## NickG

Last halloween my fogger had very little output by the end of the night... I've just gotten to taking it apart and I found that the pump motor worked great, and the heater heated up fine, so I took apart the heating element / combustion chamber and found it full of junk... looks like sand, bits of silica and some carbon... the tip was clogged with the stuff. I only use "black label premium fog fluid" which I get at a local DJ equippment store that is $25 a gallon, and it's clear. This was my second season on the fogger, previously purchased "as new" off ebay. I sandblasted the contaminates out of the combustion chamber (it's irregular sufrace wouldn't allow for any other cleaning method that I could think of) and I've put it back together resealing it with high-temp RTV (which is what was there to begin with) I'm waiting for the insulation to dry out before I put it back together... but I'll let you know how it does.


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## Sickie Ickie

I'll be interested to know.


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## NickG

just got it back together and tried it out, works better than it ever has....oodles and oodles of *thick* fog. I resecured the fiberglass insulation by wrapping some copper wire around it to hold it in place (had to cut it along the side to get the element out) The RTV says it's rated at constant 500 degrees, with peaks up to 600.. not sure what the heater runs at. I might use a temp gun to find out. Even without access to a sandblaster I'm sure folks could get a bit more use out of DOA foggers due to this issue.


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## charlie

A side note. I am confident the reason that my fogger seized in the first place was because of bad fog juice. I did quite a bit of experimenting with various brands this Halloween and it almost seized again with one particular brand - fog output went from great to almost nothing and the pitch of the motor changed. I quickly swapped in another brand and it came back to life and worked like a charm.

charlie


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## Sickie Ickie

What was your "good" brand?


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## charlie

Sickie Ickie said:


> What was your "good" brand?


Unfortunately, I have no idea. The juice that I swapped in was the mystery green juice that I was trying to track down initially. I never did find out what it was for sure - but I found what I consider to be the best fog juice ever made - Rosco. It was expensive, but I bought it because it was green (and I was in search of my mystery juice). It produced the most dense fog I have ever seen, and it hung forever. Before my haunt began I filled my main fogger with the Rosco (all other foggers went outside because the Rosco was so thick one fogger was more than enough). After 3 hours I checked my fogger to find that the fluid level had only gone down about 1 inch. Depsite 3 hours of having my garage completely fogged (its a 3 car garage) I only used a small amount of the juice. At this rate 1 gallon of Rosco will last like 10 years!

1 full pump of Rosco out of my Hurricane 1700 was enough to fog my entire front yard and street to the point where you couldn't see more than a few feet in front of you. We had to stop because we were worried about causing an accident. Afterwards the huge cloud of fog moved as a unit down the street slowly - it is amazing how well it stays together, despite some wind.

Anyway, I'll never put another type of fog juice in my main fogger - there is no reason. Not only does the fog look better, but I have to spend less time messing with it to keep my haunt evenly fogged - and it takes far less juice to do it.

charlie


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## flyinpolak

seems that the fog hog`s tend to break quite easily i looked at a few other forums, u can call amdj and ask for a _*vaporizor pump*_ that should do it, along with some ingenuity and some hardware. BTW... does anyone know where to get a replacement pump for an old gemmy fogger, i went online on their website..... nothing there... sooo i dropped them a line, and they dont make replacement parts... kind of stupid. so i was thinking maybe a car window washer pump? lol please help me out here!


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## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

*Looks like a lite fx constant fogger block*

The pumps in the lite fx constant foggers are REAR WINDOW WASHER PUMPS they have more push than the regular ones.
You will need some deacon 1400 degree gasket sealant to seal the block back up right, the heater block gets up to about 800 degrees in some spots.
You have to use a pliable gasket sealant that can handle 1400 degrees constantly and allow for expansion and contraction of the heater block as it heats and cools.
DO NOT GO TO AN AUTO STORE AND GET AUTOMOTIVE SEALANT IT WONT WORK FOR VERY LONG and the fog fluid will break the sealant down.
How do I know all this wonderfull stuff?
I own a fx shop.


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## Otaku

Good info! Is the same pump used in the Lite F/X 1741? I have one that is several years old and still going strong, but eventually it's going to die. It'd be good to know what pump to use. Thanks! Oh yeah, welcome to Haunt Forum!


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## trexmgd

Here is a link to an old thread I started and a lot of people jumped in to help: Clogged Fogger

Some internal Pics on page 2


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## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

*Fog Machine Repair*



Otaku said:


> Good info! Is the same pump used in the Lite F/X 1741? I have one that is several years old and still going strong, but eventually it's going to die. It'd be good to know what pump to use. Thanks! Oh yeah, welcome to Haunt Forum!


Thanks for the welcome!
It's been a while since someone tried to send one of those to my shop for repair but I would be willing to bet that it's the same pump.
90% of the cheap foggers that use a 12v transformer to convert the 110 use a rear window washer motor for the pump, there are some lite fx machines like the 400w and 700w version that use micro solenoid pumps which are near to impossible to get unless you get them in bulk from moia over in china where the stupid things are built but they are junk anyways.
ALWAYS BUY EUROPEAN PUMPS! They last forever!
Heres a interesting tid bit for you guys and gals, about 4 yrs ago we got board at the shop and took a 1200w constant fogger heater block and canned the pump and replaced it with a kick AZZ high pressure 350ml out put micro pump and now that fogger runs circles around the VEI V-950 fogger.
See lite fx actually made a hellofa heater block when they made the 1200w constant fogger but they put a nickle and dime pump on it, so ya upgrade the pump for $80 and a little work and have a nice dependable fog machine, personally I like the little built one we did better than the chauvet 1200w or even the 1200 fogstorms, the smoke seems to be whiter and not as grey.
I know no matter what happens that pump will never die, I would bet the bank on it!
Did I mention you cant even hear the pump run even after 4yrs of complete abuse, the only way to tell its running is to touch it and feel it.
Personally I think the 1200w constant fogger is nice toy after you do a little work to it and fix the issues but then you have to remember this is comming from someone who works on foggers all the time so it's not a big deal to me.
I still like my Glaciator best though, LOL!


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## monty1269

K-
Thanks for the additional info... After this season, I'm SURE I'm gonna tackle building a monster-size fogger. I'm gonna call it "Franken-Fogger"!! Heater or two from one machine...pump from the auto-parts store or salvage yard, etc.

Anyone have a how-to for a home-made fogger?? i.e. SAFE build. I dont mean that flat iron crap. I'm talking using components from this one and that one...Cuz' you KNOW these are gonna be all over ebay in a month or two.

OR....Is there actually a fogger that lives up to the hype. As we have seen, some foggers (Chaveut) are advertising 1200watts but their actual heaters are only drawing about 800w !!


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## monty1269

kentuckyspecialfxdotcom said:


> ...
> I still like *my Glaciator *best though, LOL!


 Yeah....a $10,000 fog machine BETTER do a fantastic job!! WOW!!

fog envy....


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## Otaku

Now that's some interesting info, alright. It sort of sounds as though some of the low-end foggers suffer from a lack of pump output more than heater capacity. Another observation about Chauvet foggers (and others) is that the heater power cuts off during pumping. Is this because they didn't want to spring for a DPDT heater relay? It seems that by using a DPDT you could keep the power going to the heater block when the pump is running and still have the protection of the thermostat, and prevent the heater temp from dropping so rapidly. There may be a good reason for cutting the heater power, but I can't see it.


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## Flying Dutchman

*Thanks for the tip*

I have 4 foggers. I had trouble with them last year. I'm going to try cleaning them, but running out of time! Thanks for the tip.


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## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

Otaku said:


> Now that's some interesting info, alright. It sort of sounds as though some of the low-end foggers suffer from a lack of pump output more than heater capacity. Another observation about Chauvet foggers (and others) is that the heater power cuts off during pumping. Is this because they didn't want to spring for a DPDT heater relay? It seems that by using a DPDT you could keep the power going to the heater block when the pump is running and still have the protection of the thermostat, and prevent the heater temp from dropping so rapidly. There may be a good reason for cutting the heater power, but I can't see it.


There actually is a reason why they do the whole stop, reheat deal.
Once the heat block get low on temp we all know that if the pump keeps going it will just spit out raw juice or brown syrup, LOL!
But the manufactures have to not over heat the blocks cold clash cappability.
By cold clash I mean when a block is hot and you hit it with cool or even cold fog juice, I have seen several heater blocks that cracked because the temp sensor on the block didnt shut off and the block got way too HOT HOT HOT and then the unaware user hit the block with cold juice and then SNAP! You got one hell of a fogger on your hands for sure for a couple of minutes, fog starts shooting out from every orifice of the unit, it's actually kinda cool, monty1269 would apprecieate seeing something like that with the whole franken fogger idea.
If you guys need hard to find stuff let me know I have pumps out the wazu and if you guys ever want to get rid of fog machines that still heat up but the pump is shot let me know, I buy broken foggers all the time espically the higher end ones, I usually wind up giving away a couple of repaired foggers here and there, we have a couple of families here in Louisville that dont have much money at all so we see to it that the low income families have uber cool props for halloween.
After all halloween to me is what christmas is to the normals.


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## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> Yeah....a $10,000 fog machine BETTER do a fantastic job!! WOW!!
> 
> fog envy....


You wouldnt want one.
It uses enough eletricity in just a few hours to run your friggin house for a week.
It drinks premo fog juice like a alcholic and even though the fog is super thick and low, if you get a breeze outside it still gets wisked away.
It's not worth the 7900 I paid for it, I got a discounted demo.
The only reason we have it is for BIG indoor events so we dont have to use ice, ice equals water on the stage floor and that means our insurance reps eyes start to blink with dollar signs.
And the same goes for c02 effects or cyrogenics, trying to explaine safe c02 usage to your insurance rep is like saying we have this gas and were going to unleash it on this crowd but trust us we know what were doing, were profesionals, LOL!


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## Moon Dog

Welcome to the site kentuckyspecialfxdotcom!

Good to have another "techie" type on board!


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## evil-within

i have a fogger pump that laid down on me i tried cleaning and the vaseline thing but it just wont work.... i hate to say it but its a cheapo from china via ebay.... anyways the pump is a 120v 60hz motor and also has 30dsb-zjf on it will the rear window washer pump work for mine or do i need to buy a fogger from walmart steal the pump and take it back? lol


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## monty1269

evil-within said:


> ....... anyways the pump is a 120v 60hz motor and also has 30dsb-zjf on it will the rear window washer pump work for mine *or do i need to buy a fogger from walmart steal the pump and take it back?* lol


 I'm totally shocked at this thought.... the very thought that a fellow american would encourage such activity...One time...or twice.. But to "long-term BORROW" THREE pumps, would just be applauding.


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## monty1269

kentuckyspecialfxdotcom said:


> .... You got one hell of a fogger on your hands for sure for a couple of minutes, fog starts shooting out from every orifice of the unit, it's actually kinda cool, monty1269 would apprecieate seeing something like that with the whole franken fogger idea.


aaawww man...dont squash my dreams. LOL! <long pause> ...but that would be cool to see. LOL! 



kentuckyspecialfxdotcom said:


> ....I usually wind up giving away a couple of repaired foggers here and there, ....


I've given the neighbors a few of my older 400W units to encourage them a littel bit. - it helped! hooray!



kentuckyspecialfxdotcom said:


> ....
> After all halloween to me is what christmas is to the normals.


OH yeah!!!  but then again...*I* do the winter holidays too! Yep, I've got issues. ... but after scarin the poop outta the kids on on holiday, I make 'em smile the next couple months. ying-yang kinda thing I guess...??

If yer interested in helping/suggesting next years' FRANKIN' FOGGER let me know!! I'm now on a mission to find the best parts and piece one together.


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## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

Moon Dog said:


> Welcome to the site kentuckyspecialfxdotcom!
> 
> Good to have another "techie" type on board!


WAZZUP MOON DOG!


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## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

If yer interested in helping/suggesting next years' FRANKIN' FOGGER let me know!! I'm now on a mission to find the best parts and piece one together.[/QUOTE]

I will post a pic of the fogger we built, if you guys want some of this decon high temp sealant you can have all you want just send me a couple of bucks ( 5 bucks is sufficent), the stuff has a shelf life of one year before it has to put into service and we have a crap load of it, it comes in a rope type reel in a big can and you wont find a better high temp sealant.
One of our shop guys has a hot rod and used it ( A CRAP LOAD OF IT WITH OUT MY PERMISSION ) as a header gasket on his alcohol hot rod, so im pretty convinced it will seal what ever in the hell you want it to.
I mean look up the specs on decon 3300 its good from 500 deg to 1600 degrees.
About 4 inches of it will seal a constant fogger screw down plate you just slice it into strips.
THE ONLY CATCH is you will have to break the sealant in right becasue for the first few hours it stinks but after it cures its well worth it.
As always you guys can call me after halloween for details AFTER HALLOWEEN though, LOL!
My wife came out of the office and reminded me ( by smacking me in the head with bucky arm ) that I still dont have the decos for the yard done so looks like my works not over yet, DAM! I can't get a break!

Mike Bisch Kentuckyspecialfx.com 502-836-1674


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## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

evil-within said:


> i have a fogger pump that laid down on me i tried cleaning and the vaseline thing but it just wont work.... i hate to say it but its a cheapo from china via ebay.... anyways the pump is a 120v 60hz motor and also has 30dsb-zjf on it will the rear window washer pump work for mine or do i need to buy a fogger from walmart steal the pump and take it back? lol


I would get another cheap fogger.
Unless you can send me a pic of inside.
The window washer motor wont work unless you have transfomer stepping the voltage down remeber they are 12v.
By the time I got you a 120v pump and shipped you could have bought another 19.00 fogger, plus it's the 30th we all know the next few days are gonna be like friggin christmas on foggers, hell, I bet you could find em for about 15.00 in some places.


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## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> I'm totally shocked at this thought.... the very thought that a fellow american would encourage such activity...One time...or twice.. But to "long-term BORROW" THREE pumps, would just be applauding.


Great now foggers all over the place are going to be missing pumps! ROFL!


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## monty1269

Well...If they built 'em right the first time, i.e. american made, they wouldnt need to 'fix' them so much.

and lets talk about this sealant. your 'hot rodder' guy used it as a header gasket!?!? Wooo-boy. I'm not too sure 'bout that one. Hopefully it was a emergency repair and has replaced it since.?? (I'm also the Director of the Florida LX Club... Chargers, Magnums (mine), 300's, Challengers)


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## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> Well...If they built 'em right the first time, i.e. american made, they wouldnt need to 'fix' them so much.
> 
> and lets talk about this sealant. your 'hot rodder' guy used it as a header gasket!?!? Wooo-boy. I'm not too sure 'bout that one. Hopefully it was a emergency repair and has replaced it since.?? (I'm also the Director of the Florida LX Club... Chargers, Magnums (mine), 300's, Challengers)


Nope he actuallly used the stuff a his gasket for perm, he couldnt get the machine shop to cut him the thickness of copper he wanted in time for some big race so he went to our supply wall and helped himself.
Still works just fine and dandy to this day not one black mark and he runs his stuff rich as can be so you would be able to spot a leak a mile away.

Ive got a 74 Nova - Purple ( The Wife Said So ) - SS Aluminum Craigers - Straight Lake 4in Side Pipes - Hooker Comp FL Headers - 383 Blue Print Stroker Block - SLP Aluminum PandP Heads - Dual Matched 4150 Holleys w/ 671 B&M Intercooled Blower 18 psi - Tubbed 4inch in Rear with Moser rear setup - Turbo 400 Trans Cottman - 12 point cage - Aluminum floor and guts - Wilwood brakes front + rear and a hidden go go juice bottle just in case.
It looks heavy untill you get close then you can see the work. 
Ever since I started the business I havent had time to go racing ( wife still drives it ocassionally though ) every time I drive it I get in trouble, LOL!
I still cant get the car to launch straight, once the wheels come up it pulls hard to the left.


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## monty1269

Severe thread jack.... sorry guys.

WOW!! :drool: 
Until about a year ago there wasn't any tuning abilities for these cars. Diablosport stepped up and the superchargers have been flyin' off the shelves! just wish *I* could afford it!  
All I've done to my 4200+ pound beast, is throw in a cam, JBA hi-flow cats, SLP catback, AirHammer intake, and tuning of course. (5.7 hemi) Lifting the tires off this thing is only gonna be done with a jack!


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## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> Severe thread jack.... sorry guys.
> 
> WOW!! :drool:
> Until about a year ago there wasn't any tuning abilities for these cars. Diablosport stepped up and the superchargers have been flyin' off the shelves! just wish *I* could afford it!
> All I've done to my 4200+ pound beast, is throw in a cam, JBA hi-flow cats, SLP catback, AirHammer intake, and tuning of course. (5.7 hemi) Lifting the tires off this thing is only gonna be done with a jack!


Don't feel bad with gas as high as it is I actually cant afford to drive the dam thing, Avi Gas is redicolus, last I checked it was $9.20 something and at 4 miles to the gallon, well lets just say I dont think so,LOL!


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## NickG

fogger made it about 2 hours and I suspect the gasket failed. I accidentally ran it dry for about 5 minutes and refilled it, about 30min after that it had quit working and was out of fluid again, emptied it's self out via the inside, took it apart afterward and looks like that's what happened anyway. Still, got through the majority of the haunt and that thing had the WHOLE yard tough to see through, as well as up and down the street a few times.


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## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

NickG said:


> fogger made it about 2 hours and I suspect the gasket failed. I accidentally ran it dry for about 5 minutes and refilled it, about 30min after that it had quit working and was out of fluid again, emptied it's self out via the inside, took it apart afterward and looks like that's what happened anyway. Still, got through the majority of the haunt and that thing had the WHOLE yard tough to see through, as well as up and down the street a few times.


I assume it was the lite fx constant fogger?


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## NickG

kentuckyspecialfxdotcom said:


> I assume it was the lite fx constant fogger?


yep. got it for $40 shipped.. this is it's 3rd halloween - so far... mixed performance.


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## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

You wont get decent proformance out of it untill you hack the crap out it, bigger pump, trash the transformer, seal up the gasket properly.
The heaters are good long life heaters with repairable cleanout, you just have to have the right sealant to seal up the block and the pump is doo doo.
Halloween isnt really over yet and the emails are already starting to come in for repairs on foggers on our website, LOL!


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## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> Severe thread jack.... sorry guys.
> 
> WOW!! :drool:
> Until about a year ago there wasn't any tuning abilities for these cars.


Monty you would have died if you were here at the shop, we had the fire department making smoke in the area runs 6 times before they stopped in front of the shop and realized it was comming from us.
Eventually we had our rosco 2000 watt and our hacked lite fx constant going, for 4 residental blocks surrounding us people were driving around with the high beams on and creeping, I will have pics for ya all ASAP, I remebered to take pics of just the hacked lite fx running just for you, please when you see the pics keep both hands on the PC. LOL!
We took a chance tonight and pushed the heater block right to the point of where it got ready to start sizzling and sputtering it was rolling fog out all night long like a champ.


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## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> Severe thread jack.... sorry guys.
> 
> WOW!! :drool:
> Until about a year ago there wasn't any tuning abilities for these cars. Diablosport stepped up and the superchargers have been flyin' off the shelves! just wish *I* could afford it!
> All I've done to my 4200+ pound beast, is throw in a cam, JBA hi-flow cats, SLP catback, AirHammer intake, and tuning of course. (5.7 hemi) Lifting the tires off this thing is only gonna be done with a jack!


Hey monte heres the link to my myspace pictures of a few pics of the fog not a lot but I should have more comming.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...viewPicture&friendID=377634831&albumId=998779


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## monty1269

Sorry...typing with one hand is time consuming...especially when there's cleanup involved! LOL! Next time, I'll just swap out keyboards... 

I'd be interested in a parts list of your hacked fogger. Most likely can use one of these windshield washer pumps (or goto a fuel pump! LOL!) and dial it back a bit using a flow control like you have done. Actually...to go 'cheap' I wonder if a 'pond pump' would work?? HD and/or Lowes are dumping those type of 'seasonal' things right now!

What *I* found, while crackin' open all the 400W's and the 1000's ...is that they all use the same little pump in there. same EXACT numbers, etc labeled on them. So I repaired my 1000w pretty easy. Sure woulda figured they would put a slightly larger capacity pump in there - but nope! 

this year I had 20knot winds to deal with - yippie. Although for the Party we had on Saturday, I just cranked all the fog machines up!! LOL! It went with the dragon/gargoyl/rennaissance theme... Was pretty cool with all the yard torches lit-up, and the obvious lighting that happened. Wasn't quite the expected turn-out, but the hundred or so that *did* show up, certainly appreciated the efforts. - i.e. 5am Sunday :googly:


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## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> Sorry...typing with one hand is time consuming...especially when there's cleanup involved! LOL! Next time, I'll just swap out keyboards...
> 
> I'd be interested in a parts list of your hacked fogger. Most likely can use one of these windshield washer pumps (or goto a fuel pump! LOL!) and dial it back a bit using a flow control like you have done. Actually...to go 'cheap' I wonder if a 'pond pump' would work?? HD and/or Lowes are dumping those type of 'seasonal' things right now!
> 
> What *I* found, while crackin' open all the 400W's and the 1000's ...is that they all use the same little pump in there. same EXACT numbers, etc labeled on them. So I repaired my 1000w pretty easy. Sure woulda figured they would put a slightly larger capacity pump in there - but nope!
> 
> this year I had 20knot winds to deal with - yippie. Although for the Party we had on Saturday, I just cranked all the fog machines up!! LOL! It went with the dragon/gargoyl/rennaissance theme... Was pretty cool with all the yard torches lit-up, and the obvious lighting that happened. Wasn't quite the expected turn-out, but the hundred or so that *did* show up, certainly appreciated the efforts. - i.e. 5am Sunday :googly:


We havent found a pond pump yet that would work, short of the bigger ones where you have to submerge it into the fog soulition container, which at some point you have to be practical, but then again look at what madness were doing.
The fuel pump will work to a certian extent you want to use the older electric low psi ones for carb injected engines not the electronic fuel injection ones off your wifes car they usually put out over 60psi and at that rate youll be shooting fog juice from one end of the house to the other ( Tried it, LOL!) , you have two options knock it down with resistors, or even a dimmer switch but then you will loose the pressure needed to keep the hot juice from comming back at the pump.
The parts list is as follows for the Evil Fogger.
1 - Section of 1/4 OD copper tube aluminum would be better we just use what we have in stock to repair the higher end ones.
1 - 1/4 OD compression 2 way adjust valve ( water supply adjuster I think )
1 - Constant heater Block.
1 - Pump prefrence is 1/4 outlet to insure you have the flow capability to cool your line.
2 - 90 Deg. 1/4 2 way compression elbows.
1 - 1/4 2 way connector
1 - section of high temp gasket sealant, copper seal wil not work but for a few hours, you need something like deacon 3300 or if you really wanted to take a few hours and cut and trace a gasket from a sheet of HT silicone then you have more patience and time than me.
1 - storage tank
1 - Tube bender for 1/4 tubeing
1 - PINK TEFLON TAPE - The white stuff get broke down pretty easy by fog juice the pink holds up a lot better.
1 - Fiber glass wrapping ( local Hardware stores carry this in winter by the truck loads BUT YOU MUST USE THE YELLOW NOT THE PINK PANTHER, the yellow is the old itchy real deal fiberglass insulation.
1 - Board to mount all this madness to.
1 - Pump the pump in the pic is our replacment pump for the $2k ROSCO foggers.


----------



## monty1269

kentuckyspecialfxdotcom said:


> ...they usually put out over 60psi and at that rate youll be shooting fog juice from one end of the house to the other ( *Tried it*, LOL!) ,.


Got videos of THAT!?!? LOL! I'm sick huh?? :devil:



kentuckyspecialfxdotcom said:


> ...
> 
> 1 - Constant heater Block.
> 
> .....
> 
> 1 - section of high temp gasket sealant, copper seal wil not work but for a few hours, you need something like deacon 3300 or if you really wanted to take a few hours and cut and trace a gasket from a sheet of HT silicone then you have more patience and time than me.
> 
> ....
> 
> 1 - Pump the pump in the pic is our replacment pump for the $2k ROSCO foggers.


Constant heater block? You using one from a "broken" fogger?? If so, what flavor?? etc..

Gasket sealant.- Patience?? uuummmm...NOPE! LOL!

Pump - I still like the idea of matching a heater block that can take 60psi pump-age !!  ..but for my first Evil/Franken-fogger attempt, I'll go with the washer-fluid pump...??


----------



## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> Got videos of THAT!?!? LOL! I'm sick huh?? :devil:
> 
> Constant heater block? You using one from a "broken" fogger?? If so, what flavor?? etc..
> 
> Gasket sealant.- Patience?? uuummmm...NOPE! LOL!
> 
> Pump - I still like the idea of matching a heater block that can take 60psi pump-age !!  ..but for my first Evil/Franken-fogger attempt, I'll go with the washer-fluid pump...??


No, I dont have a video of us covering our selves in fog juice, although I can honestly say it didnt taste too bad but we all got sprayed because the pump didnt have any resistance and hit the block at full force and our faces were about 2 ft from it ( we were all three looking for any leaks and what not ), fog juice in the eyes does burn a little though and that film makes everything blurry for a little bit.
My favorite heater block is the 1200w lite fx constant fogger the main reason is the block cannot be clogged up simply because you can take the lid off if it gets too much crap in it but 9 times out of ten you can remove the nozzle and fish any **** or junk out of it.
You wont find a heater block that can handle 60psi unless you put a plug or a jet in line and use a .040 or .035 drill bit to make a flow hole.
A lot of the uber high end fog machine companies are using jets or as they call them pills to regulate flow.
The fule pump idea might work now that I actually thought about it for a while, the electric pumps that are for the old carb cars seems the be the best way to go, matter of fact dosent felpro or mr gasket make a small fuel pump for carb engines, I could have swore they did, HMMMM!
Need to break out the old jegs and summit book.
We need to have our own event / contest to see who can make the best fogger from parts I guess the only rule would be is you have to have all mismatching parts, LOL!
That outaa make for a interesting meet, FOG STOCK!


----------



## monty1269

kentuckyspecialfxdotcom said:


> ....
> My favorite heater block is the 1200w lite fx constant fogger the main reason is the block cannot be clogged up simply because you can take the lid off if it gets too much crap in it but 9 times out of ten you can remove the nozzle and fish any **** or junk out of it.


NICE!! Time to hit ebay and find one I guess?? Or got a source? 



kentuckyspecialfxdotcom said:


> ....A lot of the uber high end fog machine companies are using jets or as they call them pills to regulate flow.


so what you are saying is.... Use Nitrous jets?? Wont that be funny! Me stripping down a guys nitrous system to "borrow" his jets! LOL!



kentuckyspecialfxdotcom said:


> ....The fuel pump idea might work ... a small fuel pump for carb engines, I could have swore they did, HMMMM!!


How about a small fuel pump for an outboard boat motor?? I just had to pick one up recently, but I cant remember the brand at all. Sorry 



kentuckyspecialfxdotcom said:


> ....
> We need to have our own event / contest to see who can make the best fogger from parts I guess the only rule would be is you have to have all mismatching parts, LOL!
> That outaa make for a interesting meet, FOG STOCK!


LOL!!!!


----------



## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> NICE!! Time to hit ebay and find one I guess?? Or got a source?
> 
> Thats what I do during the off season, untill christmas is over.
> 
> so what you are saying is.... Use Nitrous jets?? Wont that be funny! Me stripping down a guys nitrous system to "borrow" his jets! LOL!
> 
> You could use NOS Jets but your going to have to go after the really small ones like the 50 to 100 shot shot pill.
> This is acceptable because you have to remeber your not flowing HP Gas your flowing a viscous fluid that while may seem wattery it does have some thickness to it.
> 
> How about a small fuel pump for an outboard boat motor?? I just had to pick one up recently, but I cant remember the brand at all. Sorry
> 
> Funny I just the new Jegs and summit in the mail today, if I get time ill flip though and see if I can find that low press pump, I was sure it had 1/4 fittings. I still cant remeber it's been a while.
> LOL!!!!


Ill tell ya this, I have personally been eye balling the heater and pump parts from VEI here lately, the price isnt bad for the pump but 80+ for the heater sounds a bit ludicris since we all know we can get broke foggers on ebay for next to nothing.


----------



## monty1269

I might be able to get a handful of 50 or 100 shot pills from the guys... If I can, you interested?? I'll send a couple your way...


----------



## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> I might be able to get a handful of 50 or 100 shot pills from the guys... If I can, you interested?? I'll send a couple your way...


Im in, let me know what I owe ya, I can send ya a paypal.
Remeber the ones were looking for are the .030 .035 .040 ( Memory serves me correct i think that is the lowest NOS or ELdebrock Makes ) with those three we will be able to do what ever we want, here at the shop we actually have a dec. drill bit set that starts at .020 and goes all the way up to 2.0 so we can take those jets and make what ever the heck we want, not to metion if you need a pill milled out it can be put in a letter and mailed for change.
AHHHH! SImplicity at it's finest!
Im pretty sure the three jet sizes should be real close to what were needing and worse case if theyre too small we can percision increase them as we see fit.
This will be rather nice cause now we can get rid of the adjustable valve on the evil fogger, dont get me wrong it's nice to be able to adjust on the fly, but IT IS TOUCHY, IF you go one hair over you could be dumping out too much juice, the jets are surely the way to go.
Espically since most of the big names are doing similar stuff but they just hide the stuff so it's not very visible
Now that I think about it, even the stock brass inlet on the constant lite fx has a step down inside of it, I dont remember if it is built into the fitting or not but I do remember it is not adjustable and it was way to hard to try to drill out from two different angles and get them right so we canned the stock intake inlet fitting all together.

Let me know what you find from the guys as far as to what they have.
Make sure you check with JEGS SUMMIT ELEDBROCK or NOS Price guide to make sure they arnt screwin ya over.


----------



## monty1269

kentuckyspecialfxdotcom said:


> ..My favorite heater block is the 1200w lite fx constant fogger .


hhmm.. Really? Seems like a "cheap" unit to be able to handle the output that we are talking about here.... Is there a big-bad monster heater somewhere? What is inside these heater blocks? Is it just a electric oven coil wrapped-up in a ceramic blob with a tiny copper tube running thru it?? (horrible description)... but what about ripping up a toaster oven...or an actual oven :laughvil: coil and making your own heater??

on those 'jets' ..I've already got a couple of guys digging thru their parts box to see what they have...One guy suggested, "What about a needle valve, you can get pretty precise with them. try swagelok or someone like that" - I have NO CLUE what that is, but it was a suggestion...


----------



## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> hhmm.. Really? Seems like a "cheap" unit to be able to handle the output that we are talking about here.... Is there a big-bad monster heater somewhere? What is inside these heater blocks? Is it just a electric oven coil wrapped-up in a ceramic blob with a tiny copper tube running thru it?? (horrible description)... but what about ripping up a toaster oven...or an actual oven :laughvil: coil and making your own heater??
> 
> on those 'jets' ..I've already got a couple of guys digging thru their parts box to see what they have...One guy suggested, "What about a needle valve, you can get pretty precise with them. try swagelok or someone like that" - I have NO CLUE what that is, but it was a suggestion...


The heater blocks are not much more than a series of tunnels or passage ways in usually an aluminum block with an inlet and exit.
I wouldnt go spraying a toaster or the old iron down with fog juice, that poses a problem, you have to heat the juice enough to seperate the water from the actual soultion but too hot and you wind up getting carcinogens over over burnt fog that has that all time favorite smell of formaldhyde.
Its better to stick with the heater block.
You have to have pressure to seperate the chemicals into a perfect steam.
In other words dont get any bright ideas about putting a gallon of juice in a frying pan, if you do youll need to go ahead and get the fire department on stand by cause youll be in for a treat not to mention the black smoke will have you paint the whole house in a few days.
Believe me I tried all kinds of lucridous ideas to come up with mass ammounts of fog in under a few seconds, to maximize the fluid it needs to be steamed under controlled pressure.
AND NO MONTY, DONT PUT IT IN THE GAS TANK EITHER, ITS NOT A FUEL ADDITIVE, LOL!


----------



## monty1269

kentuckyspecialfxdotcom said:


> AND NO MONTY, DONT PUT IT IN THE GAS TANK EITHER, ITS NOT A FUEL ADDITIVE, LOL!


Why you always gotta squash a man's dreams... GEESH!!

Anyways... TOTALLY forgot that one of the Members of my club is very well connected.. Ever hear of Wilson ?? As in the racing scene WIlson manifolds, Wilson nitrous systems...BINGO! (the light bulb went on!) Well...I guess the only REAL question is.... gimme three/four jet sizes you wanna try... I'll see what he can do. Yes, he drives a 300 SRT8 that does NOT have the giggle-gas on it - YET! He's got them from .016 to .122....


----------



## monty1269

I'll be going to the "candy store" this afternoon!! woohooo!!


----------



## JohnnyL

I had a big pro-fogger that wouldn't pump out any fog, yet it made a noise like it was trying and heated up. I simply took the fog liquid tube and started a siphon and inserted it back into the pump area. Then it worked and hasn't stopped for years. Just needed a little push.


----------



## monty1269

aaaaaand.... what about sno-machine application?? (i know... wrong forum)


----------



## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

JohnnyL said:


> I had a big pro-fogger that wouldn't pump out any fog, yet it made a noise like it was trying and heated up. I simply took the fog liquid tube and started a siphon and inserted it back into the pump area. Then it worked and hasn't stopped for years. Just needed a little push.


Sometimes you get lucky and all ya have to do it kick start the pump, sometimes, but that's a sure sign that it's getting ready to go out, just a matter of when.


----------



## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> aaaaaand.... what about sno-machine application?? (i know... wrong forum)


Very seldom do we see snow machines, most theaters and venues use the big foam stuff, every now and then you get the people who have unlimited money and stick a few snow machines on theyre house so the guest inside during the holidays look out and see snow.
Other than that we never have much call for big end snow machines.
Hell last time we worked on one was like 2 or 3yrs ago.


----------



## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> Why you always gotta squash a man's dreams... GEESH!!
> 
> Anyways... TOTALLY forgot that one of the Members of my club is very well connected.. Ever hear of Wilson ?? As in the racing scene WIlson manifolds, Wilson nitrous systems...BINGO! (the light bulb went on!) Well...I guess the only REAL question is.... gimme three/four jet sizes you wanna try... I'll see what he can do. Yes, he drives a 300 SRT8 that does NOT have the giggle-gas on it - YET! He's got them from .016 to .122....


 jet's .016 WOULD BE AWSOME, from there we can make any thing.
The smallest jets we can get is the supreme start point, then we can drill them out to what ever pump we want to use.


----------



## monty1269

man... nothing around for broken fog machines - ebay quiet too... Let alone finding that particular heating block. "lit fx 1000 constant". Well...like I said, I'm going to the nitrous specialists this afternoon!! so what flava jet ya thinkin 'bout??


----------



## monty1269

.016....COOL!! I'll see how many he can find rollin around the shop floor...


----------



## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> .016....COOL!! I'll see how many he can find rollin around the shop floor...


.016 is the way to go, a few of those would be nice


----------



## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> man... nothing around for broken fog machines - ebay quiet too... Let alone finding that particular heating block. "lit fx 1000 constant". Well...like I said, I'm going to the nitrous specialists this afternoon!! so what flava jet ya thinkin 'bout??


HEY MONTY, FOUND SOMETHING FOR YA!

EBAY Item number: 110306163562

I just asked the guy how he knows that the heater is 1000w, there are no stampings on the block or bracket which makes me think that might be for some of the lite fx 400w or 700w blocks.
So I wouldnt grab them up just yet, but im keeping an eye on them, if he can prove they are 1000w I will take surely take a few.


----------



## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

kentuckyspecialfxdotcom said:


> HEY MONTY, FOUND SOMETHING FOR YA!
> 
> EBAY Item number: 110306163562
> 
> I just asked the guy how he knows that the heater is 1000w, there are no stampings on the block or bracket which makes me think that might be for some of the lite fx 400w or 700w blocks.
> So I wouldnt grab them up just yet, but im keeping an eye on them, if he can prove they are 1000w I will take surely take a few.


Never mind monty, the guy replied " YES THE HEATERS ARE 1000W 
THOSE ARE THE ONLY HEATERS THAT WE SALE''.

Sorry but that's not good enough, I need proof that they are 1000w heaters and not 400w or 700w junk heaters that are being passed off as 1000w heaters.
Anybody can sell a 383 stroker motor but how do we really know that its a 383 and not a 350 bored and worked over.
Details Details Details.


----------



## monty1269

AAaahhh..remember that the Chauvet machines have been tested here by Otaku (and others) and they are NOT drawing 1000W!! Only about 780 if my memory is correct.


----------



## monty1269

On another note.... I've got the jets!!! I've got two .016's and two .022's. Shoot me an addy and I'll send 'em to you!! - I'll keep one of the .022's for myself tho  

and lemme tell ya the Wilson Manifold is a SICK shop to go to!! WAY too many toys to play with!! Monster parts to play with.... All I could do is drool everywhere... Clean-up general production area....and R&D dept.... ANd nitrous dept...etc. 5-axis machines carving away at blocks of aluminum like CRAZY! Which starts the mind wandering... :evilgrin: Anyone sliced one of these heaters open??


----------



## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> AAaahhh..remember that the Chauvet machines have been tested here by Otaku (and others) and they are NOT drawing 1000W!! Only about 780 if my memory is correct.


Yeap! and thats why his last reply was ' I have no information I can release '

Well! Isnt that nice!
Lets sell a product, call it what what we think will sell and provide no proof, man im in the wrong business, sounds like the guy worked politics before he was on ebay.


----------



## monty1269

I say we paint the plastic case of the 400's .. slap a sticker that says "Super Fogger 1400" and sell 'em for 149.99 (reg price 199.99) 

Geesh!! ebay crap. Somebody slap 'em!


----------



## monty1269

got it!! mail already went ou ttoday...I'll get 'em out Monday. SO get a machine broken down, and get ready... Also, I can get the "plumbing" parts too. I'd be all aluminum, and would have really cool fittings! 

Custom heater blocks ???? That's why I asked if you've ever cut one of the heaters open to see what's really going on inside?? I'd DEFINITELY need a pic and details. Maybe create a larger heater block to stay hotter longer.....


----------



## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

monty1269 said:


> got it!! mail already went ou ttoday...I'll get 'em out Monday. SO get a machine broken down, and get ready... Also, I can get the "plumbing" parts too. I'd be all aluminum, and would have really cool fittings!
> 
> Custom heater blocks ???? That's why I asked if you've ever cut one of the heaters open to see what's really going on inside?? I'd DEFINITELY need a pic and details. Maybe create a larger heater block to stay hotter longer.....


Im probably goin aluminum myself, we have acumilated a lot of that here latly for soem reason.
Plus copper is getting too pricey to be chopping up for goffing off.

Let me see if we have any heaters that have gone kaput usually we tossem cause space is limited to keep too much junk around but im sure we have something.


----------



## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

kentuckyspecialfxdotcom said:


> Im probably goin aluminum myself, we have acumilated a lot of that here latly for soem reason.
> Plus copper is getting too pricey to be chopping up for goffing off.
> 
> Let me see if we have any heaters that have gone kaput usually we tossem cause space is limited to keep too much junk around but im sure we have something.


I found one monty, not sure what or where it's from but im hacking it half in a little bit so you guys can see the guts, LOL!.
I think its an older chauvet probably a 750 hurricane


----------



## Vlad

Hi guys, you're so far afield from where this thread started, I'll separate it off later into it's own, lol. Please don't add any more to it until I get a chance too.


----------



## monty1269

tick-tock.....


----------



## Sunkenbier

Can someone post a link to where the new thread will be/is


----------



## monty1269

searching for that link/thread myself! LOL!


----------



## wayne

*fogger newby*

We also have always said we do Halloween much better than we do xmas.
As such we tried to add a fogger to our setup this year. It was a cheapo Crazy Fogger picked up at one of the Halloween stores. (I know you get what you pay for). It worked for a bit then stopped putting out.
It is not clogged as I can force squeeze some juice through the tube and it will spit out fog but the pump wont draw anything through. I have opened it up to examine the pump and kicked it on. I hear it buzzing but it doesnt pump.
I figure the impeller or diaphram in it is frozen.
Any way to fix that?
It is labeled 
Micro pump DS8 Type 40DSB 120v 20w
Tried to find such on the web but no luck
Is it worth even chasing?
Is there another pump I can sub or should I trash it and try to step to a more expensive unit


----------



## Longtimer

Wow! This might be an old thread, but it has more information in it than I've found everywhere else on the web put together. 

THANKS!


----------



## DieTodtenReitenSchnell

I just wanted to add...two years later...that Rosco is a professional fog machine manufacturer (as well as other theatrical things). The F-100 is a staple theatrical fogger. Although I am not as knowledgeable about fog juice as I wish I was, I can only assume that the Rosco fog juice is of the highest quality in existence. That said, I should comment that the more I research foggers and fog juice, especially the cheapo Party City kind, the more I learn that the pump and heater expect certain qualities to the juice, in particular at what temperature it atomizes at.


----------



## smokedogg

I too am having the same problem. With 2 of the Chauvet 1250's. The pimp just makes a weird buzzing noise with very little (looks like its at idle) smoke coming out. So I took them apart and opened the pump and found really nothing wrong or out of the ordinary and just re-installed. For what ever reason it now makes more noise and has Zero fog coming out of it. Alls I did was clean the pump and re-installed it the same exact way I took them apart. Any help?


----------



## spinman1949

*Manual tests.*

I am very familiar with this pump. You should be able to manually test the pump. If you wish you can send me the pump and I will test for you. I also have an extra pump for parts. PM me if you want me to have a look at your pump. One thing to be careful on this pump. Make sure you put the correct spring in its location. If you switch the springs it will not work.


----------



## smokedogg

Hmmm...Perhaps I may have switched the springs around but I am pretty damn sure I did it the correct way. Cause I had the other one right next to me to make sure i did everything correctly. But i can take pictures of it disassembled in order, or yeah, I could send them to you too. That'd be cool. Thanks.


----------



## smokedogg

Sorry for the double post, but I forgot to mention something else that I have had no success finding. That is the copper tubing that goes from the pump to the fogger. I only keep finding tubing without the bubble type things at the end were the screw-on nut is. Reason being because awhile back when working on 1 of my machines i gave just 1 extra turn too tight which snapped the nut. Thanks.


----------



## djscarface

*fog machine*



Moon Dog said:


> In one of my past jobs, repairing foggers (along with all kinds of DJ & band equipment) was one of my daily routines.
> 
> Great work!


hey...how can i fix my fog machine...it doesnt put out any fog..but it heats up


----------



## djscarface

djscarface said:


> hey...how can i fix my fog machine...it doesnt put out any fog..but it heats up


you can reach me at [email protected]


----------



## stagehand1975

I had the same issue with all of my fogers. And it was cuased by how I was storing them in my unheated garage. The left over fog juice is not freeze thaw stable. Some of the glycol in the juice seperated and hardened and got suck into the pump. So to everyone, make sure you store your machines and juice in heated space.


----------



## scarymovie

I too have tons of foggers if mines did not work I would just buy a new one! They can be expensive though... thanks for posting this link! When my foggers dont work I will try fixing them instead of throwing them out!


----------



## Dead Things

Bought 3 Gemmy fog machines at the end of season in Nov. Made sure they worked and stored them in my basement with fog juice in them. Took them out today and only one of them worked. Can hear the pumps on two of them but no output and the third, the pendant didn't work although the machine worked with one of the other pendants. Not $#%*& amused. Sent a customer complaint to Gemmy but don't think much will come of it. I've talked with my boss from the sfx company I work for and he says even the $300 foggers are crap. Suggestions on how to convince my wife I need a $1000 fogger?


----------



## The Archivist

Fog machine revival, sounds like a religious thing. I've never had a problem with the club's fogger. At the end of each night's run, one of us take apart the foggers and clean them out so that there's no fog juice residue to gum up the pumps and heater.


----------



## Casketrepair

Just so it's out there

The Lite F/X 1200 watt foggers use a rear window washer pump (Like KentuckySpecialFX said)

*Taap/Windshield Washer Pump Part # 7-564*

Available through autozone fits the circuit board perfectly

About 10 min and a soldering iron was all it took and I filled my kitchen with pea soup

Hope this helps


----------



## SEFD111

*Fogger problem*

I have one of the cheap halloween store foggers that a friend of mine asked me to look at. I had the same model with same problem that I repaired by rebuilding the pump. Cracked open his with all the confidence in the world assuming the fluid would be trickling from the pump or not flowing at all. WRONG!!! the pump sprayed fluid a good two feet. Put it back together and I get an occasional discharge puff of smoke and that is it. Any ideas on this one??


----------



## Otaku

Can you hear the pump running when the fogger heats up to operating temp? If so, the heat exchanger and/or the nozzle is clogged. I had a Lite FX 1741 clog up and had success cleaning the exchanger with 70% alcohol and compressed air.


----------



## timberloon

*help with VEI 945 fogger*

worked great beside my 940 then the 945 went cold, no heat output but the light is on , heaters are cold and the fuse is good...? help what in the board went bad and can I find it at digikey? Thanks for any help.


----------



## Brood11384

OMG I needed this! My haunted went through soooo many fog machines this season. We ran about 6 during the whole show for 5 hours at a time, 6 days a week. They blew up pretty quick. Going to check some of them and see if I can fix it! Thanks!


----------



## DracJack

Greetings! I am new to this forum. Can someone here send or direct me to a achematic diagram showing how the parts of t he 30DSB-ZJF pump used in so many fog machines go together? My machine stopped working and I took the pump apart to see if I could determine the problem, but I don't now know how the parts go back together.

THanks!


----------



## RoyZ

charlie said:


> Here is a link to the PDF that I used - essentially I only looked at the pictures to see how the pump would come apart. I used my own cleaning method - http://wolfstone.halloweenhost.com/_LocalMirror/How to Resurrect a Fogger.pdf
> 
> charlie


My 400 W "Spirit" unit has the 300 DSB-ZJF pump. I followed the link above and it helped to give me some ideas on how to proceed.

My pump is designed with two major pieces: the AC coil/housing and the pump module that screws into it. After loosening the nut connecting the copper output line to the pump and disconnecting the plastic tubing from the supply tank, the pump module can be removed by unscrewing the large "nut" (on the output side of the coil housing). This plastic module can be completely removed from the coil housing (you will probably have to remove the pump from the frame first in order to fish it out of the unit as in the link above).

This pump module can be further disassembled by gently twisting and pulling the two ends apart. Inside, I found (from the input nipple to the output coupling) a spring, a steel core (more later), an O-ring, a plastic piece, a couple of o-rings, a flat ring, another o-ring, a spring with a stopper on one end and the output housing. Pay attention to the order, orientation, and location of the various pieces as you take them out.

The steel core looks like one piece, but in reality, it has a spring inside which holds a cap on the small end of the part. The steel core is flattened on two sides. This is the actual moving piece that pumps fluid. The end cap on mine was stuck with goo. I gently cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and used a small wire to ensure the passage was clear. Be careful not to overstretch the spring or break it. This is the most fragile piece of the pump. The fluid path needs to be cleaned of old sticky fluid. The rubbing alcohol seemed to do the job quite well.

When the pump is activated the steel core vibrates back and forth. As it moves towards the input port, fluid is forced up its center and out the spring-captivated cap. As the core moves forward the cap pushes it against the other spring into the output chamber. The flat sides of the core allow the core to move without creating too great a vacuum. The springs and caps keep the fluid from flowing backwards in the pump. The O-rings provide the pressure seals to keep the fluid from leaking out of the pump.

After cleaning and re-assembling the pump parts, I loosely re-inserted the pump module back into the coil housing. I filled the supply tubing with water and, before tightening the pump module down all the way, I re-connected the supply tubing to the pump input, filled the tank with water, and put the end of tube in the tank. I turned the system on and let it warm up. Once the unit was ready, I turned on the pump. I then adjusted the position of the pump module by screwing it in and out of the coil housing until I got maximum flow from the pump. You may want to put a towel or sponge under the pump to soak up the water as you work. NOTE: It is most likely that the pump module will NOT be fully seated in the housing when it is at its max. This is a good thing! Torquing it down all the way will jam the steel core and spring and prevent it from operating. The O-rings keep it sealed so it won't leak.

Disconnect the power, re-mount the pump if you previously removed it, re-connect the output line and tighten the output nut. Be careful not to allow the pump module to rotate in the housing while tightening the nut on the output tube.

Empty the water from the supply tank and re-fill it with fog juice (or cleaner). Don't drain the water from the line. You want it filled so that the pump doesn't lose its prime. Re-connect the power and allow the system to get up to temperature again. Allow the pump to run or cycle until the water is fully purged from the system. In my case I ran cleaner through the system because I was still not getting good flow through the heater. But the pump was once again working.

There are two critical parts to this kind of pump. I've noticed some posts here and elsewhere talking about cleaning the system multiple times to restore flow. None of those posts discussed finding the sweet spot for the pump module location with respect to the housing. I suspect when the pump finally started to work for them, it was not tightly torqued down so that the core was free and could actually move. This is critical. On my pump, the module was about a half-turn from its fully seated position. The other critical concept is to be sure the spring restrained cap on the core is not stuck and that it is clean.

If the pump winding is not burned out, and if the parts are clean and not damaged, and if the pump module is not over-torqued, the pump will work.


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## NickG

it's about time to dig up this thread isn't it?

I started to clean out the garage yesterday in preparations for halloween and such, and came across two foggers my neighbor gave me saying he had given up on them. I found one of the remote/timers didn't work, popped it open and had a look. Made a simple repair and it's back in action. Not sure why it failed, possibly manufacturing defect / bad section of circuit track on the board.


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## LittleBlueBMW

What is the consensus on cleaning foggers with things like Froggy's cleaner?

Why I ask is....

I may have killed the chauvet 1250 (2 years old in october). It was sort of running weak so I ran the froggy's cleaner through it and the output went to zero and it started sounding very bad. I turned it off for the night, after 3-4 hours of trying to help it. Ran it this morning and got some fog output, albeit not as much, and there were still some poor mechanical sounds. Ran it again tonight, sounds great, volume is still meh.


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## Otaku

Try removing the outlet nozzle and cleaning the tiny hole with a needle. I had to do this now and then with my 1250.


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## LittleBlueBMW

Excellent starting point! Going downstairs now!


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## LittleBlueBMW

hmm that did not help. Going to take it apart this weekend. Got my 1300, 1100, and 901 ready so hopefully I can save the 1250


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## timk519

*Fog Commander Lite F/X 1752*

Thanks for an excellent read on this thread so far!

Every year I setup a frame on my driveway, cover it with a tarp, turn on the spooky tunes, and then fill it with fog.

Last year, my machine failed me, and with halloween approaching I decided to do some debugging. What I've found so far is that the heating element works, and so does the pump. I'm guessing there's a thermocouple or some kind of switch which controls when the pump runs - my question is, which part is it, and what do I replace it with?


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## I.Heart.Halloween

*F/X fog machine*

Hello Halloween fans! I've been a lurker for a few months now and decided to join today! The help, knowledge, and friendships i read about is awesome. I have an issue i hope someone out there can help with. First i will admit, i know very little when it comes to fog machines. I am learning as i go with my current issue.

I have a FX-8 (by Spencers) fog machine. It's 700w. I've owned it for 7-8 years now. It runs for about 3 hours on Halloween and gets put away until next Halloween. This year i've decided to clean it, only because i never did before. 
So after reading online from a few sources, to use a mix of distilled water and white vinegar. I ran that mix thru for about 10-15 minutes. Then i "rinsed" the system with just distilled water 10-15 minutes. It all seemed to be great. I then made a mix of Glycerol/distilled water 20/80 ratio. I poured it in the reservoir tank but the fogger stopped working. None of this mix made it thru the system to create the fog. After reading on here, looking at photos and watching a few videos, i took apart the fog machine and systematically cleaned the hose going from the tank to the pump. Then took apart the pump and cleaned that. The elbow at the end had a little crud in it, and i cleaned that out. Then the copper pipe going from the pump to the heater. Then took a pin and cleaned the heater and the end nipple where the fog shoots out. After assembling everything back together, it still won't create fog.

The heater heats great, the pumps seems to draw liquid, but nothing comes out the other side of the pump. The pump sounds like it wants to draw, it sounds strong (compared to videos i've watched of other pumps and how they sound).
Without comparing parts of the pump to an identical pump, it's hard for me to figure out if anything is wrong with the parts of the pump. Someone who has a good working knowledge of these pumps, please check this photos out to see if something looks wrong to you or if anyone has any advice. Thanks.



















#8 (a spring) went inside #7. But look at that spring. Is that the way it should look? it seems the end of the spring is "uncoiled" a little.




























This is the type of pump. If i can't get this working, can i find this pump anywhere? what about an aquarium pump? any ideas?

Thanks in advance for any advice. I hope this helps others too.


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## Saturday8pm

Heart, GREAT POST. Spring #8 may be my stumbling block. I also managed to lose the seal 
in the elbow and the flat rubber washer atop the piston cap.

Back to the spring. Mine never fell out or was discovered while I disassembled the pump;  
I thought it would freely spill from its perch. Now that your post verifies that I probably also 
have the same spring in my pump, I'll have to go back in there and look for it. Turns out it may 
be jammed in there with the **** that's pasted inside the piston. Did yours ever attach to the 
plastic cap? Another iNet PDF "How To" file indicates the spring does attach to it, and this may 
be the source of our collective fogger failure. Reattaching it, however that works, may get it going.

Comments?


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## camsauce

LittleBlueBMW said:


> hmm that did not help. Going to take it apart this weekend. Got my 1300, 1100, and 901 ready so hopefully I can save the 1250


My 1250 had problems this year as well. I took off the nozzle, scrubbed it down with vinegar and made sure the hole was clear. The copper/brass filter connected to the hose inside the tank also was removed (it unscrews into two parts) and scrubbed down with vinegar. I then blew into the hose several times, which was gross because I got a taste of vinegar and after letting it sputter a few more cycles it came back to life. I've said this elsewhere, but I think the advice of leaving fog juice in the machine the off season is a bad one. I think it would be much better to store it dry/clean.


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## Saturday8pm

This is the article: Clickety.

Still, the author describes there yet ANOTHER part and haven't sussed that one either.


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## I.Heart.Halloween

Saturday8pm said:


> Heart, GREAT POST. Spring #8 may be my stumbling block. I also managed to lose the seal
> in the elbow and the flat rubber washer atop the piston cap.
> 
> Back to the spring. Mine never fell out or was discovered while I disassembled the pump;
> I thought it would freely spill from its perch. Now that your post verifies that I probably also
> have the same spring in my pump, I'll have to go back in there and look for it. Turns out it may
> be jammed in there with the **** that's pasted inside the piston. Did yours ever attach to the
> plastic cap? Another iNet PDF "How To" file indicates the spring does attach to it, and this may
> be the source of our collective fogger failure. Reattaching it, however that works, may get it going.
> 
> Comments?


Thanks for the response! I am very ignorant when it comes to pumps and whats normal and what isn't. Trying to learn as i go. When i took the pump apart, nothing was really attached to each other. The O rings seemed to be in the proper places (seated in the places i think they belonged). Should that spring #8 look like that? Should it be attached to something? Did it detach from something? Questons questions


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## Saturday8pm

Most welcome. Nah, I haven't gone back into it. Not as motivated now the day has passed,
what with the weather mess'n'all. I can confirm mine had no cap atop the piston as that article 
I posted, could be a differing design.


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## I.Heart.Halloween

Thanks again Saturday. I hope this issue and question stumbles upon someone who can answer these haunting questions. I wonder if making a dedicated thread will attract more advice/help? :dunno:


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## MikeBru

#8 looks like a rod, not a spring. #9, the spring, appears normal.


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## MikeBru

Ok, now i see it. #8 looks like a spring with a flair on it to prevent it moving, to mount it.

BTW, what happened to the discussion on building a fogger from parts and making something you can rely on or at least fix? Once the moderator "moved" the discussion.... nothing.


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## Haasmama

I am definately going to try this. Three of my five are not working...


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## Hippofeet

Well, here he is, the bane of all cheap (and sometimes expensive) foggers. I think any discussion about designing a better fogger starts with this guy. I've got a 700 dollar fogger torn apart right now. Someone let it run dry, and the pump died. Broken springs. The pump in the higher end fogger is the same style as the 400 watt pump, just a bit bigger. A reciprocating piston, or solenoid pump. I see them called both, probably other names, too. So I'm looking for a completely different type of pump, rotary hopefully, and dry running. I googled a bit today, but no joy. Hard to find the dimensions and capacity I'm looking for in an AC rotary micro fluid pump. The medical pumps would work, and some have very similar specs as the fogger pumps, but hoo boy! Mucho Dinero!

I'm supposed to be designing a fogger from the ground up over the next few months (I have a lot of props to build, and this isn't high priority) and the pump is where I'm starting. 110 VAC, to plug right into existing foggers. Oil and acid resistant. Dry running (at least for a while). Good to a few hundred degrees (some of the fogger pump specs I could find show upper temps in the 150 to 200 range, makes no sense for the application, I know the fluid cools the pump, but come on, there's a giant heater block, like, right there) Rotary or diaphragm, geared if I can get it. Metal case and rebuildable without tweezers, a magnifying glass, and seven different o-rings from ace hardware (with a trip for each one).

I don't think it's too much to ask.


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## Hippofeet

So, this is what I built today.

2 1500 watt heating elements, 2 large solenoid pumps from 3000 watt machines, jumped the thermistors, disconnected the thermometers, pulled the cards and replaced with a 2 channel controller that triggers ONLY the pumps, stuffed it all in a (returned for shipping damage) fogger case. the original rocker switch powers the entire unit, the controller is inside the case, along with a 12 VDC power supply card wired directly to the 110 VAC rocker switch hot sides, with a rocker switch to trigger the controller, so that the heaters heat up, then you trigger the controller and it cycles until the reservoir runs out of fog fluid, or the power cord melts. It blows the 15 amp fuse supplyed with the original fogger, so I jumped it with a solid steel 1/4 inch rod.

it runs great, and never cools down. I am cycling left/right on the heater elements at 10 second intervals, with no problems. It does run on a 20 amp circuit breaker, but really needs a 30.

Ill get some video of it in action.


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## Hippofeet

the youtube vid.






For some reason the left heater element seemed a bit starved for fluid, or a bit cold. I usually let it warm up for 5 minutes before triggering the controller,but of course for the vid I got impatient and warmed up for a minute or so.

The fluid level was low enough that one of the intake lines had curved up out of it a little, maybe that was it. I will let it cool down completely overnight, and then tomorrow put it outside and run it non stop until it dies, or im satisfied that it is going to be durable.

anyway, just an idea for a fogger that doesnt have a warm up/cool down cycle.


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## Hippofeet

*Inside*

The guts.


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## kentuckyspecialfxdotcom

*Fogger Pump*

A while back we built a franken fogger out of a constant 1500 lite fx with a adjustable flow valve to match the heater on a ply wood plank to kinda explain how foggers work that and we cut a fogger heater in half to show the inner workings of a heater block.


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## Hippofeet

kentuckyspecialfxdotcom, (woah, that's a lot to type, lol) thanks.

I didn't have to cut a heater apart, it became exposed when the aluminum flowed across the welding table in a liquid state.

I was thinking that the Rosco's and some others were made continuous that way, by regulating the flow somehow. But then, the output is 25 percent. So you pay for a 1500 watt fogger, but its only a 1500 watt for a few minutes right at the beginning, then its a 400 watt all day. As far as output. But I would need to watch one in action for a while, maybe its better than I think.


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## Hippofeet

I see you have waterproof fuse .. That automatically makes you good people in my book.


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## kennyt15

#2 in your diagram is backwards. The rubber stopper should be towards #3. Otherwise, the stopper will "clog" your elbow preventing fog juice from going through pump. This spring and stopper work like a check valve. I just fixed a pump on a fogger that had been sitting for over 2 years and once I got the pump running I lost suction in the intake. This stopper was the culprit....


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## HavenHaunt

Thanks this thread helped me fix mine.


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## JJohansen

*1250 repair*

So, my 1250 would only spit smoke. I ran vinegar through it and still the same. I took apart the pump and cleaned the small screen but saw nothing else mucked up, still did not work. Finally I took out the heater and inside the aluminum core there is a spiral piece that was completely clogged up - cleaned it and it is better than when it was new. Might test it out by not putting the spiral piece back in - theoretically it should provide a greater volume of smoke, but more heat up interruptions.
Being that the heater does not heat when the pump is running I might change that set up and see how she goes.
I will post later with the results.


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## Tank top

*Fog machine not working*

I have a FX-A Spirit fog machine that is not working. Had it three years and no problem. Any suggestions?


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## Saturday8pm

*Still Losing Here*

FIVE YEARS AFTER JOINING I'm still trying to cure my Chauvet.

The original problem was it ran dry on the very first use. YEAH. 
Ecch, what a mess. So I replaced my 1050, now retired, with an 
Antari SP-35a, a superior pump. At first I was worried that it was 
a different rating and therefore might smoke the board. Not so yet.

So, I've basically gutted the transport system.

• New 3/16" copper tubing
• New rubber stopper on fluid reservoir
• New vinyl tubing to pump


Pump works fine, NO small pieces as the old one that would fail easy. 
Biggest problem was getting the distilled water to stop leaking at the 
compression points. Rebent new copper tubing fixed this. Taped ends.

The Heating Block is still clogged. This is the aluminum heating element 
employing the internal spiral dowel that, in answering my own question, 
is basically NOT serviceable. It has resisted all attempts to clean it. There 
is the tiniest of a path allowing steam ... but it's clearly compacted.

Things I've tried that didn't clear the clog:

• Not the outlet nozzle. Clean.
• Not the inlet/outlet. Tried vinegar, isopropyl alcohol.
• The clog clearly is in the spiral dowel.
• Tried the vinegar/distilled water flush - it only screwed up the pump.
• Immersed the block in "CRL", Calcium, Rust and Lime. For days.
• Vinegar passed through a pump reacts poorly to the pump's lubricant.
• 14 gauge wire will go barely 1/4" into the inlet. Same with fish hooks.
• Braided picture hanging wire attached to a drill, auger-style, failed.
• Banging the dowel out with a brass drift. DIDN'T BUDGE. I suspect that 
after being subjected to high temperatures, the shaft fuses to the block.
• MOST RECENT FAILURE: Immersing in a 70% water-to-vinegar hot bath 
and compressed air. Slight path still; no improvement.
• CURRENTLY FAILING: Immersing in a 50% water-to-isopropyl alcohol 
hot bath and compressed air. Slight path still; no improvement.


Things I have NOT tried:

• Rapidograph Pen-style ultrasonic cleaner.
• Shop-level compressed air or bicycle pump. The latter would require 
a new nipple to mate with the smaller bike pump threading.
• Boring a new hole straight through the block.

I'm at wit's end, people! This heater block design SUCKS. If it can 
be built, it at least should be _serviceable_.

I'm seriously considering taking it to a shop to have a new hole bored 
straight through the shaft. At least I'll have an opening that CAN be 
serviced if it clogs again.


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## Saturday8pm

Tell you what.

I'm going to experiment ... tomorrow I'm gonna cook 
some fog fluid in a pan 'til it's black. Then I'm gonna 
whip out various potential solvents to see what breaks 
it up best. Will report back.


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## Saturday8pm

WELL I got a lot of fog in the kitchen, so at least I know 
the fluid's still good. It's been open 8 years now.

Not enough remained to properly assess.

At least I know that it's one way to get fog for Halloween: 
a camp stove! Set it out back in two pans and boil away.
Primitive and non-directional, but I'll have fog.


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## Saturday8pm

Success, finally.

So: Broken pump. Replaced the Shinlef® Micro-Pump 
( more like SkinFlint ) with an Antari® SP-35a. Larger 
and you can fix it far easier than the former. DON'T use 
vinegar - it reacts poorly with the lube within the pump. 
If you do, you'll have to break it down and re-lube with
Vaseline® or similar.

Clogged Heater Block: So, I had two of the more common 
problems with these things. What worked? Boring a small 
hole straight through the center of the shaft. This does two 
things. First, your fogger will FINALLY have a working path 
to pass fluid; and second, you can service it should it gum 
up. So I strongly urge those who want to save their old junk 
to secure a bench press and go for it.

Yay. Finally. FOG.


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## JCChiro

Happy New Year, 2018!
May I bring back, from its demise, a discussion of fog machine repair?
I have an Eliminator Lightning EF1000 (1000-watt) fogger. I sense that it is not necessary to describe all my efforts to salvage this beast, however I am lead to ask a question: are conditions possible that the 1000-watt heat block could be shorted?

I have been told multiple times to buy a replacement fog machine, but where is the fun in that?

The block, itself, has an ohm reading of 15.1 ohms. I have read that heaters can produce 20-40 ohms. Should not the electrodes leading into the heat block be insulated from the outer housing? Presently, a continuity test shows that the electrodes are creating a level of continuity (and ohm readings), when brought in contact with the heat block housing/ground.

Thank you for your insights, times, and energies.


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## exascale

Does it get hot? Or does it trip the closest circuit breaker? 
If the answer is no and yes then it is probably shorted. Check the continuity from the plug to the heating element and through every component in-between. Look for anything that resembles a fuse, circuit breaker, thermal fuse, thermal cut off switch, etc. It it is a blown fuse, consider the possibility that it blew for a reason before you simply bypass it. Other thermal cutoff components might have failed open just from normal usage. Use caution if you are considering permanently bypassing a failed one.


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## JCChiro

Thank you very much for your insights. The unit does not have enough time to heat, since the fogger's circuit (when including the heat block) immediately blows the circuit-breaker. You are right about the heating unit being shorted, since its two electrodes also appear grounded to the outer casing of the heat block and to the fog machine's ground. 

Previously, I replaced the main fuse of the fog machine and the thermal safety fuse (not the thermal disc, which regulates the overall temperature and fog juice pump) that attached to the heating unit.

I agree with you, bypassing any safety component within the fogger would not be the wisest choice. That might create a Halloween nightmare.:jol:

Thank you again, for your time and energies.


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## NightWalkUT

I just had the same issue, thank you for posting!


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## Sweetpeabaker

charlie said:


> I've had an American DJ Fog Hog for 10 years. It has been perfect in every way, good output + reliable. I have never done any sort of cleaning and it has worked perfect... until last year. A few days before my haunt I brought it out of storage and it worked great for the first few cycles, then the output decreased dramatically. After a more minutes it was putting out almost no fog, I could hear the pump humming though. I called AMDJ asking about buying a replacement motor but they were no help at all. I tried running distilled water and vinegar through it and it just got worse.
> 
> Later I found a PDF about disassembling the pumps and cleaning them, so I tried it. I cleaned the piston, spring, and housings with a rag and water - oiled them and put it back together. It began outputting at a higher volume, but the next day it was back to nothing. So, I repeated the process only this time instead of oil I used Vaseline. I brought the fogger out again this year and it worked, however the hose from the tank to the pump was leaking (it was dry rotted).
> 
> I went to Home Depot and bought the closest thing that I could find, it is a little larger than the original hose though. WHAM! The output is every bit of what it was when I bought it 10 years ago, possibly ever more.
> 
> Overall I spent about $3 and a few hours.
> 
> Here is a link to the PDF that I used - essentially I only looked at the pictures to see how the pump would come apart. I used my own cleaning method - http://wolfstone.halloweenhost.com/_LocalMirror/How to Resurrect a Fogger.pdf
> 
> charlie


I can not get the pdf for the pump! 😕


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## corey872

Welcome to the forum. When all else fails, sometimes a search for the file name will turn up a new link, a mirrored site or similar document:



How to Resurrect a Fogger.pdf - Google Search





http://www.gearhack.com/Forums/Community%20Support/Spencer.s_Spirit_Halloween_Fog_Machine_FX-A.files.hidden/How%20to%20Resurrect%20a%20Potentially%20Dead%20Fog%20Machine.pdf


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