# Prop controller for newb



## joker (Sep 25, 2007)

Last year I made my first pneumatic prop. It was a simple pop-up with a pneumatic cylinder triggered via remote control. Basic on/off. I want to try and do some more things that are more than likely going to require a controller.

Looking at the EFX-TEK prop1 & 2 which would be a better long term investment, but still be good for playing around with?

Thanks in advace!


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## bourno (Jan 21, 2006)

Are you going to need more than 7 outputs to control and have a long, complex control sequence? If no, I would recommend the Prop-1 mainly for pricing and more simple programs already out there to slightly modify for your use. The Prop-2 looks nice, but is really needed for the extra outputs and more memory versus cost???

Myself, I have bought the Proto SX-28 boards for $10 a pop. I did at that time, bought their $99 starter package for them, but they did add later a cheaper programming key for the boards. The downside, you would need to add some basic hardware to it, ie: relay driver chip, a few resistors, and maybe a terminal block for easier wire connections. One can download their free programming utility for convert Basic type programming into assembly language to program up the chip. But, this may not be some people's "cup of tea".


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## joker (Sep 25, 2007)

Basically what I want to be able to do is trigger a device by remote, PIR, mat switch, etc... and then have a controller turn on a light source, audio source, possibly trigger fog machine, and trigger a pneumatic valve on/off 3-4 times at various predetermined intervals.


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## DarkShadows (Feb 6, 2006)

I'll first off say that I am still a newb at this but this is what I learned so far..

A prop 1 sounds exactly like you need.. Pick up a prop-1 board, 12 or 24 volt wall wart (I only use 24 volt if my solenoids are 24 volts, simplifies it up instead of using a relay because you can use that power source straight fro mthe board), Serial port to USB connector, a PIR sensor they sell (actually doesnt work too bad!) An 3 wire servo aka PIR extension cable, and the little chip board to hook the serial port up to the prop 1..

Then write up a code for all the outputs you want it to do. They can help you over there with writing a code. 

Now to run the fog fachine and the lights ( 120 volts), pick up some 12 or 24 volt relays, which ever your using to power the board. For example, you power the board with a 24 volt wall wart.. The output is going to give out a 24 volt signal. 

Wire the relays to the output screw terminals. I believe output 6 or 7 is going to be your trigger command. To hook that up, the PIR sensor plugs right into the board with a 3 prong connector.

Easiest thing to do is actually have one in front of you and mess around with it. I only fried one which was 2 years ago, but it was only the ULN chip that went.


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## joker (Sep 25, 2007)

DarkShadows said:


> I'll first off say that I am still a newb at this but this is what I learned so far..
> 
> A prop 1 sounds exactly like you need.. Pick up a prop-1 board, 12 or 24 volt wall wart (I only use 24 volt if my solenoids are 24 volts, simplifies it up instead of using a relay because you can use that power source straight fro mthe board), Serial port to USB connector, a PIR sensor they sell (actually doesnt work too bad!) An 3 wire servo aka PIR extension cable, and the little chip board to hook the serial port up to the prop 1..
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info DS. Getting one in front of me is actually what i'm wanting to do. I just didn't want to spend money on one thing to learn and realize later that for X dollars more I could have got what I needed even with a slightly harder learning curve.

So if I want to trigger anything that is 120 volts I'll need a 12 or 24 volt relay for that, correct? Are they pricey? Currently I have two air valves that I can use for my pneumatic props and they are 120 volts. How many outputs on a prop 1 can I setup that way?


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## bourno (Jan 21, 2006)

The prop-1 has 8 I/O. So, you would need one as an input trigger and then 7 left for output controls.


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## joker (Sep 25, 2007)

bourno said:


> The prop-1 has 8 I/O. So, you would need one as an input trigger and then 7 left for output controls.


Thanks bourno!

One more question and really it's probably to advanced for my current abilities, but was just wondering. Would it be possible if I created a scene/prop/whatever that required more than 7 outputs to use an output of one controller as a trigger for a second?

Say I want to build a scene with 3 props and I setup each prop with it's own prop-1. Could I then basically control the timing and sequence (triggers) for each of those props via a 4th controller? Keeping in mind that each prop1 would then control it's own events for its designated prop .


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## The_Caretaker (Mar 6, 2007)

Sure you can, but it might be better to go with a prop-2 with 16 i/o


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## joker (Sep 25, 2007)

The_Caretaker said:


> Sure you can, but it might be better to go with a prop-2 with 16 i/o


Thanks TC!

I was thinking having multiple prop1's might be an advantage giving me a more modular setup allowing me to mix/mingle props with future changes/additions. Although I'm sure there are more benefits to the prop2 besides more I/O's.


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## DarkShadows (Feb 6, 2006)

> So if I want to trigger anything that is 120 volts I'll need a 12 or 24 volt relay for that, correct? Are they pricey?


If your solenoids are 120 volt, I'd go with 12 volt wall wart to power the prop-1, ALOT cheaper and easier to find than a 24v one..Also the relays are sold at radioshack or you can get m online for about 2 bucks. What ever you power the board with is the size relay you need.


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## JonnyMac (Apr 5, 2007)

The Prop-2 runs 5x faster and has 8x the memory of the Prop-1. The language, PBASIC 2.5, seems more familiar to those with experience in other dialects of BASIC than PBASIC 1. That said, if you buy an EFX-TEK controller we will happily help you with the coding -- all you have to do is make a request in our tech support forums (forums.efx-tek.com).

Jon
EFX-TEK Hollywood Office


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