# Frankenstein's Briefcase



## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

Some of you may have read my thread on the use of prop controllers. This thread demonstrates how someone can apply some of what I discussed, into the build of an actual prop.

My goal for this year, is to build a small Frankenstein scene...with an animated monster. The monster will contain few pneumatics, controlled from a central desktop prop (illustrated in the first thread). I also want to add a singing pumpkins display into the scene...with my own twist. Instead of pumpkins...I want singing laboratory jars. My jars will be controlled by a box I call...

Frankenstein's Briefcase

Hey...the name follows the prop, not the other way around. I truly wish I had come up with the name first...but I didn't. I could have created some damn fancy stitched together, skin covered, bleeding & screaming, bone jarring mess of a case. But I didn't. I created a wooden box for controlling wall outlets. And..the damn thing looks like...well...Frankenstein's Briefcase. Go figure.

So here's the theory, I want to control a series of lights. Instead of pumpkins, mine will be lit up laboratory specimen jars with corpsed heads in them. Or something equally disgusting...I haven't gotten to that yet. My controller for the project is an efx-tek EZ-8 button banger. Why?...because I have one sitting in a box. If it's going to sit in a box, it might as well be a box that does something.

I started with a thin piece of wooden, large enough to hold 4 wall outlets, some relays, and a couple controller board. Four outlets will give me eight plugs. Since I'm using one channel on the controller for triggering audio, I'll only have seven channels to control my outlets. Therefore, each of my plugs will be controlled separately, except one full outlet. Somebody is going to light up twins...or the extra will be left out. (I kind of like the thought of one dead cracked jar, lots of mold and spider webs. A poor soul who's too far gone to sing.)

The case is about the size of a briefcase - 12 inches tall by 16 inches wide and about 3.5inches thick. It's made of wood and stained. Mounted on the top of the case is a single red button. This will act as my trigger. One side is enclosed under a tinted piece of heavy plexy. This assures nobody can stick a finger in there and electrocute themselves. Obviously...to prepare the controller, I remove the plexy to access the board. Once programmed, I have no need to re-enter the box.










This prop is self controlled. The EZ-8 board holds the programming, and the audio card will produce the sound. There is no computer attached.

The reason this thing looks like a briefcase - I originally intended to hinge the thing and have it open up for access. But after I made the shell and stained it, I decided it needed to be able to stand on a table so viewers could see the controls. When I put out a prop at my office, the first thing they want to know is how it works. In this "case", the inside might be more interesting than the effect.

I could have wired extension cords directly to the relays. But I wanted the flexibility of taking the prop apart for storage...and also some flexibility in how I decide to use it. Thus...I chose to wire outlets.


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

The following illustration explains how this prop is wired. Warning...this prop uses household current that can kill or injure. Insert warning to have an electrician review all work here...[].

The primary circuit in the case...










This is the wiring that powers the outlets. The EZ-8 controller runs on 12vdc. It has a wall wart that attaches via the side of the case. There are eight channels on the controller. One will be used to trigger a sound card. The other seven trigger 12v relays. The relays control individual circuits that turn the wall outlets on or off.

Remember when wiring something like this...always maintain common/neutral. You want to trigger the hot side. (Hopefully my drawing is correct. I'm not an electrician. Insert another warning here.)

The switch on the EZ-8 board is set to 2. This runs 12v to the relays via the channels. This particular board can be programmed by button banging. In my case, (pardon the pun) I'm using Vixen to sequence the outlets.


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

Each of these relays is plugged into a relay socket. This is the no-nonsense way to attach wires to relays. Underneath the relays is a mounting rail called a din rail. (Out of my element here...correct me if I'm stating anything incorrectly). The din rail is screwed to the wood. The relay sockets snap onto the rail. Presto...very neat. (I always thought guys making these kinds of props were damn anal. Well, it turns out they aren't so organized...they are just lazy and found an easy way to mount relays.)

Each relay has two sides flipping. (reference the controller thread for further explanation) I decided for fun, I would use the other sides of the relays to control some additional leds. I was thinking the led panel would actually appear on the side of the prop. Instead...I liked the flashing look inside the plexy covered case. So I continued with it.

Here's the second circuit diagram...










Both circuits are attached to the same series of relays. It might be confusing, and if it is, don't try it at home. It's really pretty simple. If you want to learn about relays....build this part of the prop. It doesn't use the household current.

By the way...time for me to call out something that confuses the heck out of me. Question - is household voltage 110v or 120v? Well, I understand that there isn't a difference...they are both the same. Depending upon when you learned about household current, you may refer to it differently. Some say 110v. Some say 120v. In fact...the power company today is probably even sending a bit more than 110 or 120 through your outlets. You'll notice...I just like to say...household current.


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## Otaku (Dec 3, 2004)

Niiiice! I need to get into the EFX-Tek boards and start doing some programming. Sooner or later I'm gonna hit the wall with custom circuits.


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

The leds are really just for effect. They light whenever the associated outlet plug is powered. The EZ-8 controller has leds as well. For this type of display, that's useful. I'm just adding to their light show.

Notice in the image above....I'm showing channel one powered on the controller. That enables the first relay, which connects the side controlling power to the first outlet. It also connects the other side, closing the first circuit on the led panel. The leds are getting power from a 9V battery. (Note - it is not "loose" in the case. It's attached to the inside so it doesn't shift around in the case.) Since each led is controlled individually, I wired them up with a resistor on each led. The resistor is on the negative side (shorter leg). If you wire this and the led doesn't light up, re-check the legs on the led to make sure the shorter one is on the negative side.

Here's what it looks like on the outlet side....










Here's the inside....



















I'm still waiting on another sound card to arrive. It will mount near the EZ-8. Right now, I'm running sound from my PC to sequence the lights. With Vixen, it's quite easy. Note - these pictures are shown without the tinted plexy.


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

Otaku said:


> Niiiice! I need to get into the EFX-Tek boards and start doing some programming. Sooner or later I'm gonna hit the wall with custom circuits.


We don't all have your knowledge of custom circuits. The world's probably a bit safer. lol

If I had other controllers, I'd use them and illustrate them. Any vendors want to send NFR samples my way, I won't complain.

Zombie-F mentioned throwing out a contest this year for techno-props. While I'm not big on joining the competition, hopefully I'm doing a bit to educate the masses and level out the playing field.


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## randyaz (May 26, 2006)

nice job DarkLore...looking forward to seeing the singing specimin jars


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## jabberwocky (Apr 30, 2008)

You my friend, are a monster..........
Your ideas are great.

Im always hoping one of you techno guys will start offering your services or some pre-programed boards.

Keep us updated on its performance.


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## Otaku (Dec 3, 2004)

DarkLore said:


> Zombie-F mentioned throwing out a contest this year for techno-props.


Cool! I've got a couple of good ideas for entries!


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

randyaz said:


> nice job DarkLore...looking forward to seeing the singing specimin jars


Sorry....the folks in development need to eat more pretzels.

When I was looking for jars for my brain prop, some folks in the development donated some large plastic jars that contained Costco pretzels. I didn't use them for my brain jars...but I figured I'd find a use for them. I'm up to four.

Of course...for all I know...even a c7 bulb might get too hot and melt one of these jars. I'll have to test one.

I'll work on some jar labels later.

jabberwocky - I don't mind sharing my Vixen file. Anyone with the board can transfer the program to their board.

(Many thanks to KC for distributing Vixen - FREE! For links to Vixen and EZ-8 add-ons, check the efx-tek forum.)

*NOTE* - It would be best to wire the case with a grounded (green) wire. Just because I didn't, doesn't mean you should follow my bad example.


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## Dr Morbius (Sep 21, 2004)

I got some really cool BIG pickle jars when buying pickles at Costco. They are heavy and made of glass. I eat alot of pickles, right out of the jar and on sandwiches, I go through a jar ever couple weeks. Your controller case is most excellent! I agree, you are a monster!


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## morbidmike (Sep 11, 2009)

wow amazing I'm a electrician and probably couldnt build that......lol ....simpley amazing you ROCK!!!!!


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## psyko99 (Jan 11, 2008)

Dr Morbius said:


> I eat alot of pickles, right out of the jar and on sandwiches, I go through a jar ever couple weeks.


Wow, that's a lot of pickles. I didn't think they used glass jars that big anymore. Everything seems to be plastic these days.


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## hedg12 (Jul 6, 2008)

Very cool, Darklore! I like the idea of showcasing the electronics, especially when it fits into your theme.

Where did you find the relays and DIN rail?


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

hedg12 said:


> Very cool, Darklore! I like the idea of showcasing the electronics, especially when it fits into your theme.
> 
> Where did you find the relays and DIN rail?


I bought the relays, relay sockets, and DIN rail at a local electronics parts store. I don't think they ship orders.

You can find the same kind of relays at Radio Shack, but they will be a higher price. Maybe someone reading the thread can suggest an online electronics supplier. All Electronics maybe?

Efx-tek sells a relay board that uses solid state relays. The relays are sold separately. Solid state relays won't click like mine, which is less distracting to the music.


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## randyaz (May 26, 2006)

DarkLore said:


> ...Solid state relays won't click like mine, which is less distracting to the music.


Thats what I like about the solid state relays...they're quite and have a faster response


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## hedg12 (Jul 6, 2008)

DarkLore said:


> I bought the relays, relay sockets, and DIN rail at a local electronics parts store. I don't think they ship orders.
> 
> You can find the same kind of relays at Radio Shack, but they will be a higher price. Maybe someone reading the thread can suggest an online electronics supplier. All Electronics maybe?
> 
> Efx-tek sells a relay board that uses solid state relays. The relays are sold separately. Solid state relays won't click like mine, which is less distracting to the music.


Thanks. I haven't looked for them yet - just thought maybe you'd found them online somewhere. I agree that SSR's would be nicer but like you said, they're pricey!


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## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

Nice work DL - This looks similar to something that I made this year for my singing pumpkins also using vixen. I will post that in another threat I do not want to high jack this one.


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

hedg12 said:


> Thanks. I haven't looked for them yet - just thought maybe you'd found them online somewhere. I agree that SSR's would be nicer but like you said, they're pricey!


I checked the recent All Electronics catalog - arrived yesterday. They do carry them...."ice cube" relays, sockets, and DIN rail. I don't have it handy or I'd provide the part numbers.

I would suggest that you consider solid state relays.


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## hedg12 (Jul 6, 2008)

Thanks, Darklore. I don't have a project in mind, I'm just looking for reference. Besides, I think the clear relays look cool - I may want to show them off in a controller similar to your setup.


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## BackYardHaunter (Nov 16, 2009)

this project looks like somethnig i would like to do. ive been looking at this thread for a while but a few questions
- the outlets are for a light or vavle to plug into?
- if i do start this project could to help me threw it? (since this looks pretty hard)

Thanks!
-BYH


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

BackYardHaunter said:


> this project looks like somethnig i would like to do. ive been looking at this thread for a while but a few questions
> - the outlets are for a light or vavle to plug into?
> - if i do start this project could to help me threw it? (since this looks pretty hard)
> 
> ...


I will be happy to help you through it. (You can private message me if you have questions you don't want to post on the thread.) If it would help, I'll describe and illustrate it in steps.

The outlets are being used to control lights.

The controller has eight channels. Channel 8 is triggering the audio. That leaves me seven channels to control a relay. One relay per outlet. In the photo you see eight relays. I don't have eighth relay hooked up to anything.

Start by reading the sticky thread on controllers to understand a circuit and how the relay is used to switch a circuit. Then...I'd recommend making sure the parts are within your budget. (Use of Prop Controllers)

This project uses household current..so do be careful. If you aren't sure of something, before plugging it in...send or post a photo.


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

This briefcase clip isn't going to be very good...but it will provide an idea of what the output looks like. The camera wouldn't focus because I didn't have the patience to set it to a fixed position.

Video Clip

I will attempt to wire the lights through cooper tubing, connecting to a series of different jars with heads, specimens, or whatever. Something similar to the jar I used for my zombie mind control. That ought to link my prop theme a bit.










I think it would be cool to cast silicon faces of our TX/Okie M&T group for each jar. Not whole heads...partial heads and faces, each sitting in a pool of sliming, fleshy, brainy and ****. Some skull fragments, a scrap of hair, and such mixed in. A southern haunt version of Mt. Rushmore. I don't think I could get them into that...not even in the interest of prop science.

(btw....JohnnyMac on the efx-tek forum has been very helpful and pleasant in answering my dumb controller questions.)


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## fritz42_male (May 5, 2009)

Hey DL, have you seen the cuttable el-wire you can get now. This might be good for running round the inside lid of those jars to provide an eerie glow.


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

I've never played with el-wire. But I asked about it in a thread last year and the feedback at that time suggested it wasn't a viable solution. I could re-think that...but my box outlets are household current, not 12v. Doing it with 12v, the relays and outlets aren't needed. The wires would go straight to the jars from the controller. In my case, I want to use c7 lights. They should be very visible from the street and small enough for jars.

(I considered doing something similar to this project on my witches pantry...with lighted 12v bottles. When I did that project, I maintained a connection strip, just in case I want to change it in the future.)

There is a problem I'm anticipating with lighting jars the way I show in the illustration. If I want the wires inconspicuous, I'll have to feed multiple wires through the copper tubes...in one jar and back up to the next, and again. If I use regular extension cord wires, I probably can't get more than 3 in a reasonable thickness tube. With seven jars, I'd want four wired from one side and three wired from the other....with the wires converging under the table. Notice in my image, I have tubing going down both sides. (I'm actually working from a pencil sketch, not that image.)


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

*The Cabinet and Jars*

I finished the scientist cabinet for this prop. I made it out of old fence wood to compliment my witch's pantry. This one had to be wider to fit all the jars.










The shelves are removeable with grooves cut on the underside so they could be laid across a long table with the cords neatly pathed through the back. There will also be a black 2x2 along the shelve, acting as a ledge. I did the same thing with my other cabinets and it worked well. (Image)

Each jar will contain a face, skull, or corpsed skull. The jar contents in the photos are just placeholders to give an idea of how this should look when finished. I intend to cast enough silicon or latex faces to complete seven jars. The eighth jar will be busted/burned out - since I only programmed seven channels for the lights.

The faces in the jars will look something like this...


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

To anyone reading this thread who might be contemplating my method...beware. It's a tedious process to wire these things. The wires have to be thick enough to support normal current. And you can't thread them prior to bending the tubing otherwise, you'll melt the shielding on the wires when welding the tubes.

I had to first bend the copper tubing that goes to the jar. Then wire a light and feed the wire back up the tubing.....inside the coils and through the larger pipe.










You could save alot of trouble by using pvc, or just sticking to the bigger pipe. However, you can't bend the bigger pipes, you'd have to use elbow joints everywhere. To get the affect I wanted, I had to pay the price. Both wires are fed back down the t-bar intersection down the main pipe and out the back of the cabinet.


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## Dark Angel 27 (Sep 11, 2008)

wow does that ever look complicated.

i really wish i could understand all of this but i have learning problems. most of this goes right over my head.

but still it looks awesome. great work!


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## Jaybo (Mar 2, 2009)

DarkLore said:


> I had to first bend the copper tubing that goes to the jar. Then wire a light and feed the wire back up the tubing.....inside the coils and through the larger pipe.


If you have anymore tube bending and brazing to do, run a flexible metal wire (like the ones used to hang picture frames for example) through the copper pipe before bending. When you have the pipe bent and brazed, then tape your electrical wire to the end of the wire you ran through the pipe with electrical tape and pull it through the pipe.

Your prop is looking great! You keep this up and we are going to relocate you to a permanent haunt. Get you out of that garage!


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

Jaybo said:


> ...run a flexible metal wire (like the ones used to hang picture frames for example) through the copper pipe before bending.


Thanks Jaybo (& Dark Angel).

I did figure out something similar for doing the wiring. Unfortunately, the more twists, the harder it is to do. Extension cord wire is too close to the inner size of the tube. The angle of the connector to the larger pipe worked against me. I also ran out of tubing and the HDepot near me didn't have any more. Also..it takes some practice to get it to bend smoothly. I plan to redo the simpler tubes in the two in the upper right of the cabinet.

I have no plans for a permanent haunt. But I could sure use storage space. Maybe I could work something out with the Ripleys/Wax Museum down the street.


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## fritz42_male (May 5, 2009)

You can normally pick up a handheld copper pipe bender from a plumbing shop or hardware store. Another way is to fill the pipe with sand before bending - it stops the pipe from creasing in the same way as an internal wire does.

I have to say Darklore that you do a stunning job with your props - I am very jealous.

I'm about to start a version of your Zombie Mind Control box - I've picked up various vintage meters off eBay and I'm wiring 5 or 6 E14 cylinder lamps in a line at the top of a console style box. The lamps will be driven in a sequential on & off cascade fashion by a Picaxe 14M driving SSRs with the speed controlled by a pot linked to a big bakelite knob and the brightness controlled by a standard dimmer (again with a big knob) - the same Picaxe will put out a low tone at the slow lamp speed but increase the tone as the lamp cascade increases. There will be a little plasma ball built in and a Jacobs Ladder on the end all connected to knife switches.

As I turn the knob, the speed of the lamp cascade will increase and also the tone of the sound.

This will be for a Frankenstein's monster prop where I'll play the mad scientist and another actor for the monster. I'll start off by switching the lamps on at low speed, then increase speed, then switch the plasma ball on then the Jacob's ladder. 

I'm trying to work out a 'finale' where all the lights seem to explode and then come on dimly. At this point the monster will come alive and start lurching towards the TOTers


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## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

Wow Nice work! Yet another great use for pallet wood - I love your creativity!


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

fritz42_male said:


> ...I'm about to start a version of your Zombie Mind Control box...


Sounds very cool fritz. I can't wait to see how it turns out. I'd love to have a small, simple, jacob's ladder in my display, but I'm going to forego it for now.

As for the pipe bender....I have one. It works on the smaller tubing that is normally used for refrigeration, etc. Original I wanted to bend the bigger tubes (1/2"). I bought several different large benders and all failed. In more than one case, the pipes stayed straight and the pipe bender (certified for that size and beyond) broke. Later, a guy at the hardware store told me the pipes are tempered and don't bend. He was right.

For the smaller tubing, it takes some practice to bend the tube without kinks in it. Mine aren't perfect, but close enough to my original vision.


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## jaege (Aug 23, 2009)

Did we ever see a finished product? This thing really looks cool. Nice take on the singing pumpkins.


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

Hmmm. I don't know if I ever posted photos of final prop. It is storage, so I can't take any video. I think I posted video on YouTube but your guess at the link is better than mine. The only photo I see in my albums is here...

Link


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