# What solenoid / air valves do I need to pull this off with a BooBox?



## trexmgd (Sep 16, 2007)

Here is what I'm working on - a pneumatic lifter (frame w/cylinder) and a spitter (paint gun). I need an air valve that will direct air to lift and hold the prop, then lower it. I need a second air valve that will feed air to the paint gun for the spitter effect.

If I get the BooBox 4, can anyone suggest what valves/solenoids to get? I'm thinking I need a 4 way valve (feed,lift,lower, exhaust) at 120v for the lifter with 1/4" fittings (cylinder fittings are 1/4") and a 1 way valve for the spray gun (just let the air through when tiggered) again at 120v.

So overall, the prop will be resting in "ambient" mode with audio track and lighting. Once triggered, prop will lift & lighting/sounds changes to "active" mode, then spitter is activated and finally all is reset.

Secondary question would be if BooBox is the way to go here.


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## jabberwocky (Apr 30, 2008)

Depending on the strength of your cylinder and weight of the prop, you might beable to just splice a second airline off the cylinders air line to go to the spitter.
You can use a ball valve to control the flow to the spitter.
It shouldnt take away enough air to effect the lifting, provided your sending adequate amount of air.


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## trexmgd (Sep 16, 2007)

While I'm no expert, I don't think that would work because my spitter would be going off even before/as my prop lifted.

What you do have me wondering though is can I just feed air to the one side of the lifter's cylinder and then let it exhaust out the other rather than pumping air in it to close it. So now I'm down to a 3 way valve??? Air Feed, Air to cylinder, Exhaust from cylinder other end?


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## jabberwocky (Apr 30, 2008)

Sorry, I didnt catch that you wanted the spitter to activate after the prop is fully erected:laughvil:...............

As for the prop retracting without a 5port, I do it all the time with a 3port, as long as the weight will suffice.
So save the money and use that to purchase an extra smaller one for the spitting end.
Something like this(a 2way) should work for the spitter:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008100701540636&item=20-1400&catname=air


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## gadget-evilusions (Jan 26, 2007)

As long as your cylinder is under a 2" bore and less than 6" in stroke, a 1/4" solenoid valve, 4 way 5 port will work best for raising and lowering the lifter.

http://evilusions.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=26_36_63&products_id=85

or in kit form http://evilusions.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=26_191&products_id=230

A 2 way valve is what you would need for your paint sprayer/mister, I use this valve, http://evilusions.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=26_36_68&products_id=68 with mine, but it's not made from a paint sprayer, it looks like this, http://evilusions.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=179&products_id=489.


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## rbrittigan (Sep 8, 2008)

I used the 'splitter' method - by the time the paintgun actually starts spitting, the prop has already lifted. Having the split configuration also helps on the return side - the 'exhaust' is actually what pours through the paintgun and causes the cylinder to return! (the return is assisted by the weight of the prop - including the water resevior)
It's all enclosed in a trash can, so even if I do have a bit of overspray, no big deal...


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## trexmgd (Sep 16, 2007)

gadget-evilusions said:


> As long as your cylinder is under a 2" bore and less than 6" in stroke, a 1/4" solenoid valve, 4 way 5 port will work best for raising and lowering the lifter.
> 
> http://evilusions.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=26_36_63&products_id=85
> 
> ...


Thanks for the response - I'm sending my business your way! One question on Terminal options - I'm not sure what I'm getting here. One says DIN with LED indicators - What DIN/Pin configuration would I get here with the 120VAC option? Does it come a matching DIN connector to wire up? The 12" wire leads with Grommet - I'm guessing this is may be the way to go for me, but I like the LED idea thats only listed with the DIN option. Could you further explain it or have any pics of each option?


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## gadget-evilusions (Jan 26, 2007)

I will take pictures this evening to show the difference. I prefer din for everything, not only because of the led indicator to show when power is applied, but also it allows you to wire in your own length of wire easily. Both do come with wire leads. 

Our haunted attractin closes at 1am tonight, so i will take the pictures tonight and link to them here in the morning.


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## michael myers (Sep 3, 2007)

gadget-evilusions said:


> As long as your cylinder is under a 2" bore and less than 6" in stroke, a 1/4" solenoid valve, 4 way 5 port will work best for raising and lowering the lifter.
> 
> http://evilusions.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=26_36_63&products_id=85
> 
> ...


I sure am glad that I saw this...nice to know that someone has all of the parts and pieces (and know what they will/will not do) that I need for my next couple of creations. It gets so frustrating to go to Grainger and order the stuff, and the counter guy can't tell you exactly what it does, and when it comes in, half the time I have to return it because it won't do what I wanted. I am definitely bookmarking your webpage g-e!


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## gadget-evilusions (Jan 26, 2007)

Even if someone isn't buying from me, I still have no problem if someone wants to call me, or email me to ask pneumatic questions. I work with pneumatics and automation almost 24/7m and i am willing to help anyone who needs it.


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## trexmgd (Sep 16, 2007)

Update on pics? I want to order asap... Just want to confirm that I can go DIN with 120vac and that I get the connector to wire up.


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## gadget-evilusions (Jan 26, 2007)

Din Connector attatched









Din Connector removed









Din Connector disassembled (you can easily attach your own longer wire)









Grommet (molded in) wires


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## trexmgd (Sep 16, 2007)

Got it - THANKS!


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## trexmgd (Sep 16, 2007)

Got the Solenoids today - Thank You.

Now for a couple of questions...

1) The 5 way is throwing me off by only having two leads (power). I've used a 2 way before and you either energize it or de-energize it to open and close. How do I direct this solenoid to fill port A, then port B?

2) I assume it's OK to loosen the nut on the solenoid and rotate it 90°s to the airvalve, yes?

3) What is the little blue, slotted, tear drop, button/knob on the side for?

PS - Love the push-in connectors and tubing... beats the heck out of using threaded hose !


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## gadget-evilusions (Jan 26, 2007)

trexmgd said:


> Got the Solenoids today - Thank You.
> 
> Now for a couple of questions...
> 
> ...


1. The valve works very similarly. Air will normally go to port A, when you energize the coil, air is then directed to port B while A is exhausted, allowing your cylinder to move.

2. Yes, you can rotate the solenoid, just tighten the nut back up.

3. Blue button is a manual operator, if you press it, the valve will cycle, just like when putting power to the coil.

Yes, push to connects are 100 times better than anything else I have used.


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## trexmgd (Sep 16, 2007)

OK, so I'll always be charging air into my cylinder in the prop's "inactive" position. Is this safe/good for the cylinder? I'm probably looking at 80-100 psi to get the effect I want.


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## gadget-evilusions (Jan 26, 2007)

That's perfectly fine, normal, and is standard practice. Most standard pneumatic cylinders are rated to 250 psi, so 80-100 can be applied 24/7 and no damage will occur.


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