# Cemetery Fence - Wood or PVC?



## Terrormaster (Sep 27, 2007)

Gonna be starting my fence this weekend and looking for some tips. I've read through all the tutorials over at Monster List and Haunt Project and have a good grasp at what needs to be done.

I noticed that 90% of the tutorials do a PVC/Wood mix and at least one did all wood. Other than weight and cost differences I was wondering what some of the pro's and con's were between the two methods. While I love PVC as it's one of my absolute favorite building mediums, I'm not looking forward to drilling all those holes in about 100' of 1x2's (2 times 50').

Thanks,
-TM


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## Monk (Aug 26, 2008)

Personally, I prefer the wood fence for no other reason than I had lots of pallets, a jigsaw and tons of paint laying around the last time I did a fence. I have never attempted making one from PVC.


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## scream1973 (Dec 23, 2007)

I did the all wood myself.
It went together alot quicker and easier than a pvc one would (drilling holes and such) plus i figure it will be alot more durable as PVC isnt the most durable material.

Banged out 48 feet of fence in like 2-3 hours including ripping all the scrap to size on the tablesaw


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## Hawks Hill Haunter (Apr 1, 2007)

I too want to start my fence. But I'm not sure I want to deal with the weight of the wood during set-up, take down or storing. Plus PVC would give more of the wrought iron look - very cemetery-ish. 

I'm also wondering how one might "anchor" the fencing? Living in the colder climate, the ground is often frozen or close to it which causes a problem for staking things sometimes.


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## Turbophanx (Jun 30, 2008)

I spent about $100 for my 40 Ft fence made from real wood pickets sold at the home depot. That with some wood screws and 1x1's for the bracing...
I also bought some stakes that are used for markers on construction sites.

What I did was make the fence in 8ft sections and mounted them on 2 stakes. Then every Halloween I can just pull the fences out of the garage and stake them in the yard. Works like a charm.


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## ithurt (Jun 23, 2008)

drilling the holes does suck. I just stacked them up and drilled through 'em all.
We started with 1x2, but they would keep breaking at the not hole or at the drill hole
So we used 1x3 instead, oh and pvc conduit (seemed cheaper)


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## Hellvin (Jul 6, 2008)

To be honest, I found the PVC to be too flimsy (for rails or stiles/pickets) and wood would be a preferrable alternative in my mind. When I did my sections (I had 24 cast iron fleur des lis finials to use), I used 1/2" and 1" EMT (metal conduit) found at any home hardware supply. While they do look good -- they required a tremendeous amount of cutting, drilling, and screwing. I would guess about 2 weeks of 2 hours per evening.

The 1/2" EMT ran about $5.50/pc and I used about 5 pieces (lengths at 10' ea.). The 1" EMT ran about $11/pc and I needed 4 pieces (again 10' lengths). So, $72 got me 2 fence panels each of 4' and 6' spans (pillar to pillar). Add a few bucks for sheet metal screws, 1/2" metal drill bit, and black paint and I'm at about $4/ft of fence. Doesn't include cost of finials or pillars.


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## Spanky (Oct 8, 2007)

ithurt said:


> drilling the holes does suck. I just stacked them up and drilled through 'em all.
> We started with 1x2, but they would keep breaking at the not hole or at the drill hole
> So we used 1x3 instead, oh and pvc conduit (seemed cheaper)


I agree but I had great success with the 1x2 furring strips, as crooked as you can find. Theres no stacking/drilling those. I'm currently doing my fence now, and pvc conduit (grey stuff) is definantly the way to go. 
Yes 100ft of drilling = tedious, but if its worth doing...


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## Xpendable (Sep 19, 2006)

I did the 1/2" wood strips and PVC for my fence last year. It was a decent amount of work, but the drilling was the easy part. Painting it all proved to be the hard part! Well that, and building the corner faux-cement forms, which was much harder. And my fence was only 2' tall! Anyway, I have pictures of my fence during construction at http://www.hauntsoft.com if you scroll down a bit.


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## turtle2778 (Jul 9, 2006)

I went with the wood/pvc combo using 1x2's and 1/2" pvc. Drilling the wholes really wasnt that bad and I have 10 holes per 8ft section and have 20 sections of fence so 40 1x2's. I did 5 sections at a time and it took me about an hour to drill the 10 pieces. I used a drill press so it went really fast. If you are hand drilling may god have mercy on you. LOL. I wil say that in the pvc is lighter than all wood, which i needed and it allows me to be able to unscrew it and store it vertically in a large cement tube and take up almost no space. Last year when i left them all put together it takes up an 8'x4 foot print on my garage floor WAY too much space to lose and that was with them standing up. I dont screw in every piece which adds to the more uneven look but you need to screw in some of them to keep the weight off the 1x2's. My only complaint is painting them OMG, talk about mind numbing HOURS of painting only to have it chip or scratch off with the slightest bump. Theres no way to have hand painted those using latex paint so I spray painted them. Im sure i should have used a better paint, but I was going with cheapest method and 89cents a can versus 3.50 a can seemed the way to go. I will say that I had several people who lived by me say thats REALLY PVC??? They thought it looked real.


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## Bone Dancer (Oct 7, 2005)

I have had good luck with my fence going on three years of use. Made with 1/2 pvc and 1x3's (8ft) for the cross supports which are drilled for the pvc and with a screw to hold the pvc in place. Menard has 1/2 pvc on sale ever few weeks at .99 for 10ft sticks. When painting the pvc, first lightly sand the pipe to remove the gloss and the paint will hold much better. I use steel rod ( rebar, threaded rod, ect) 18" long. Half in the ground and half up. The pvc will slid over it and stay up nicely. You could contect each section for more support if you wanted. I store it outside with only minor touch up painting.


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## Bone Dancer (Oct 7, 2005)

One more point on painting. Instead of painting each tube one at a time, I lay them all out on a flat surface and side by side. Then I paint them all at one time, roll them a quarter turn and paint them, roll and paint until your all the way around the tube. About ten minutes of dry time between rolling is all you need, but let them cure over nite. Don't forget to sand the tubes before painting. Just a fine grit to remove the gloss so the paint sticks.


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## eanderso13 (Apr 10, 2008)

I think it all depends on the look you want. If you want a cemetery/Wrought Iron look(like I did) then commit to building one with the PVC and 1X2s or 3s. If you want rickety, run down shack shack look, or something, then hop on craigslist, find some company giving away pallets for free (I found a GREAT source in Kansas...a company that builds giant custom swing sets!) and rip 'em up!

Me and my fiancee built about 7 8-foot sections 2 years ago...HUGE PAIN IN THE A$$!! But people have a hard time realizing it isn't real. It's held up all this time, through two moves (VA to MI, MI to KS) and the warped pieces have even straightened out over time. We're just finishing up three more sections, because our new yard is way bigger than our last one...and we will hopefully never have to deal with building fence again!!  So yeah...personal preference is everything.


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## samhayne (Jul 3, 2008)

I will try to a fence as well for this coming halloween, what distance you guys put in between the bars ?


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## Gory Corey (Nov 17, 2006)

TIP:

Use 2x4s, drill holes with a long shaft spade bit through the width.
We use a 2" hole saw or forstner bit to cut a profile out of the 2x4 ends - this allows you to have a slight pocket to fit the profile of the 2" PVC posts which we use a slip connection to hang the fence on...more on that in a bit.
Then rip (3) 1" wide strips or (4) 7/8" strips from each 2x4, you have now reduced your work by 1/3 to 1/4.

We use air staplers to fasten the PVC thru the holes, which takes maybe 3 minutes per section (13 stiles).

We use an air sprayer with latex to paint the fence sections standing and stacked offset outside.

One change is when making the fancier fences with the double rings between rails, is we went to ABS, not PVC, cut in 3/4" wide rings. the staples do not split the material like it did with PVC.

About the slip connection mentioned earlier:
On the fence ends with the 2" profile cut out, a simple 1.5" x#8 phillips head screw with about 3/16 of the thread exposed, is a perfect hanger. 
On the posts, drill a hole just larger than the screw head size, and another just wider than the screw thread size, below (important point) the first hole.
Now take a jigsaw and connect the 2 cleanly.
The screw fits thru the holes and the fence sections hang perfectly on the posts.

We make 100 ft of fence out of (5) 10' 2x4s in about 5 hours start to finish including painting. 200' can be done in under 8 hours since we can aggregate steps.









Anymore info wanted, just ask.

You can find my tutorials here:
http://www.minionsweb.com/projects.htm


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## CraigInPA (Sep 28, 2007)

I went the wood and pvc route. I have about 100 feet of fence. To make the assembly go quicker, I set up my electric chop saw (electric mitre box) at the exact distance from the wall I wanted my fence posts to be and put up a holder half way between the saw and the wall. Then, I worked in "production mode", picking up each piece of plastic conduit, pushing it against the wall, cutting it, letting the cut length fall to the floor, and then cutting the next length from the conduit, and repeating the process. I was able to cut the 180 or so pickets I needed in less than 20 minutes. 

I then took all the pickets and cleaned them using pvc cleaner soaked into an old towel (you could, of course, lightly sand them instead). Following that, I laid them out on an old tarp, each tight against its neighbor, and sprayed the whole lot with flat black 96 cents a can wal-mart spray paint. When it dried, I rotated the whole pile about 90 degrees, and repeated the process again, again, again, then touched up any spots I missed individually. This took about an hour plus the time for the paint to dry, about 4 hours of elapsed time. 

For the horizontal rails, I used 1x2's. I very carefully measured one, marking the exact distances (I used 6" on center, beginning 3" from the end). I then laid the other top pieces next to it in groups of 3 or 4, and transferred the marking. Then, with a small jig I made with a pair of wood scraps, I marked the center point of each hole to drill. Finally, I nailed the marked ones to unmarked ones in pairs, and drilled the holes in pairs using the drill press. Next, while still nailed together, I drilled, using a hand-held electric drill, a small pilot hole in the top and bottom rail where the drywall screw that holds the rail to the pvc post is to be inserted. This was to prevent the wood from cracking when I ran the screw in. 

Then, I separated the rails, keeping the pairs together and painted them with the same flat black paint. The rail prep took about 2 hours plus the paint dry time, about 4 total hours. 

I then laid out the rails on the nice flat garage floor, slipped in the pvc sections, aligned them using a jig made with 2x4 on each end, a pair of 2x4 ends, and 4 1x2 scraps that marked where the rails were supposed to be (push the rail against the scrap and it's in the right spot). I then screwed them together using the pre-drilled pilot holes. 10 sections took less than an hour to complete, plus 10 minutes for the jig. 

A bit of heat to the top of each pvc post and I put on my plastic finials. The fence was done. 

I completed 100 feet of fence in less than a day, with lots of breaks while waiting for the paint to dry.

The fence was outside for 5 weeks last year. It still looks nice and black, so it's going out without re-painting this year. I guess that Wal-mart 96 cents per can paint is ok!

If you are going to use 1x2's, buy select grade stock. Fewer knots means fewer problems when drilling. Also, get the straightest ones you can find if you are going to drill in pairs.

Lastly, the final post on either end should not have a screw in the bottom rail if you intend on using rebar to make your fence stand.


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## Gory Corey (Nov 17, 2006)

CraigInPA said:


> I went the wood and pvc route. I have about 100 feet of fence. To make the assembly go quicker, I set up my electric chop saw (electric mitre box) at the exact distance from the wall I wanted my fence posts to be and put up a holder half way between the saw and the wall. Then, I worked in "production mode", picking up each piece of plastic conduit, pushing it against the wall, cutting it, letting the cut length fall to the floor, and then cutting the next length from the conduit, and repeating the process. I was able to cut the 180 or so pickets I needed in less than 20 minutes.


Could you have done more than 1 at a time this way?
When cutting stiles (PVC), I do have the advantage of having a slide table on my table saw (do production work, you buy production tools) so it will be set up to have 20 or so pieces cut to the same length in the same pass.
Jigs can be made for the same purpose.



CraigInPA said:


> Lastly, the final post on either end should not have a screw in the bottom rail if you intend on using rebar to make your fence stand.


This is why I prefer pneumatic staples, they bend easily out of the way, if you use the stiles to mount the fence over rebar. 
I do not, instead the posts slide over the rebar, this way my fence does not sit on the ground, it is suspended by the posts.

About that, if you buy 1.5" x 3/4" adapter bushings, you can solvent weld then into the end of the 2" PVC posts. We use 2, with a piece of spare stile cut-off between the 2.
Once slid into place, you can add a few machine screws to make it permanent (have had a few of the solvent welds fail because there is still a 1/16-1/8" gap between the fitting and the 2").
Then just slide the posts over the rebar, nice n snug.


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## Terrormaster (Sep 27, 2007)

Sorry for any confusion, when I said all wood I didn't mean picket fence style. I still meant wrought iron but using 1x1 sticks of wood instead of PVC and perhaps nailing to the edge of the 1x2 instead of drilling holes.

Like here: http://www.geocities.com/zombies_alive_mx/cemeteryfence.html










TBH, most all of the wrought iron fences I've seen here in CT have square 1x1 bars, not round.

I love all the responses this thread is getting - it has the potential to become another fog chiller type thread.

Thanks and keep em coming...
-TM


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## Sickie Ickie (Jun 20, 2006)

I use wood lathe strips. $7 for about 50 to the bundle. I do a run down shack type and then after Halloween, I throw 'em out. Cheap and I don't have to store it.


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## Gory Corey (Nov 17, 2006)

I would go with wood, if I had a steamer!
Then I could get the twist often seen in the wrought iron stiles.

Until then I stick with PVC, hell it fooled the city inspectors, cited to anchor wrought iron fence to code


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## Hellvin (Jul 6, 2008)

samhayne said:


> I will try to a fence as well for this coming halloween, what distance you guys put in between the bars ?


Sam - I went with 5" c/c on the pickets which makes for 4.5" clear between when using 1/2" material. This then allows for use of 4" ABS pipe which is 4.5" OD. The pipe can then be sliced on a table saw or in a mitre box and used as the ring detail between horizontal rails and vertical pickets.


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## CraigInPA (Sep 28, 2007)

Gory Corey said:


> Until then I stick with PVC, hell it fooled the city inspectors, cited to anchor wrought iron fence to code


I had two neighbors compliment me on my new iron fence, only to realize that it was plastic and wood with foam columns when they got within a few feet of it. The local building inspector also stopped by for a look.


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## CraigInPA (Sep 28, 2007)

Gory Corey said:


> Could you have done more than 1 at a time this way?
> I do not, instead the posts slide over the rebar, this way my fence does not sit on the ground, it is suspended by the posts.


I suppose I could have cut two or three stiles at a time with the chop saw, but my reputation as a "Tim the Toolman" klutz might have sent me to the hospital. One was easy, and, by spending only a few seconds to position, cut, and stack each one, it didn't take that long to do the 180 I needed.

My columns have L brackets to hold the fence against them. I use the rebar in the two outside stiles to keep the fence upright. I recall reading somewhere that, over time, the weight of the pvc and finials would cause the horizontal wood rails to warp and the fence to visibly dip in the middle. So, I allow the stiles to touch the ground. The grass, which I leave long for the season, hides that (and all my extension cords, too!).

Interestingly, quite a number of houses in my neighborhood have iron fences that escaped the WWII scrap metal drives. Nearly every one touches the ground. Some touch because the fence has designed or installed that way, others because the weight of the iron over the last 100 years has warped the horizontal rails. There's one local mansion that had replacement iron fence sections hung about 6" off the ground about 10 years ago. The amount of deflection in an 8' length is 4" or 5" right now. Because they don't have have grass there, the fence looks "melted".

Craig


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## Gory Corey (Nov 17, 2006)

CraigInPA said:


> I had two neighbors compliment me on my new iron fence, only to realize that it was plastic and wood with foam columns when they got within a few feet of it. The local building inspector also stopped by for a look.


I know exactly where you are coming from.
About 7 yrs ago, acquaintances bought the house next door from the family divorcing that had been there 20 yrs or so.

They are very sweet, very not run of the mill, but at times extremely naive.

The mother & husband come by and remark on the lovely iron fence, and how did I get the city to allow me a short fence against the street like that?
I explained of course and they ooh'd and aah'd.

Shorty after I put up the columns for the gate (all how to projects on the page I linked in earlier in this thread) a person pulls in the end of my drive and my friend and I walk down to see if he needs help.

He says "I was just being amazed...I drive by here most days, and never noticed columns here before...did you put them up today?"

I said "yep" to which he asks "did you do the masonry yourself? or hire someone"

My friend and I start laughing....bewildered he asks "what is so funny"...

I tell him to get out of the car, and check them out. a moment or so later he has a curious look on his face will running his hand over them...they wobble a bit (first year, not sufficiently anchored yet) when I explain it is a prop, all foam...his jaw drops.

He spent 15 minutes just praising us. pretty danged funny. He now makes a haunt up the street, pretty nice from what I hear...


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## Gory Corey (Nov 17, 2006)

CraigInPA said:


> I suppose I could have cut two or three stiles at a time with the chop saw, but my reputation as a "Tim the Toolman" klutz might have sent me to the hospital.


Arr arr arrr arr arrr



CraigInPA said:


> So, I allow the stiles to touch the ground. The grass, which I leave long for the season, hides that (and all my extension cords, too!).


Same here, grass gets last cut September 30th if needed, then no more until the haunt gets packed up. Agreed - helps to hide everything, I do not rake leaves either.

My fence sags about an inch or so, barely perceptible and adds to the aged appearance. Doesn't hurt that I web them, add ivy and moss, spray rust coloring here n there.... then with the grass growing up around the posts and the fence bottom, it all just works.



CraigInPA said:


> Interestingly, quite a number of houses in my neighborhood have iron fences that escaped the WWII scrap metal drives. Nearly every one touches the ground. Some touch because the fence has designed or installed that way, others because the weight of the iron over the last 100 years has warped the horizontal rails. There's one local mansion that had replacement iron fence sections hung about 6" off the ground about 10 years ago. The amount of deflection in an 8' length is 4" or 5" right now. Because they don't have have grass there, the fence looks "melted".


See what I mean....


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## Terrormaster (Sep 27, 2007)

Think I'm really leaning towards all wood - 1x2 cross beams, 1x1 bars, and 2x2 posts. Gonna most likely do them in 4-6' sections. Any advice on getting them to stay upright?

-TM


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## Spookie (Aug 26, 2008)

Since people seem to have a issue with drilling lots of holes, I was wondering if you couldn't use two wooden horizontal cross bars that would be situated between your vertical support posts and attach (using screws on the backside of the fence) those plastic clips I've seen that are made to slip tubular bars through (pipe, wire, conduit whatever)...sorry I'm not a hardware person so don't know what the clips are called. I've also seen clips that are made to hold the base of holiday lightbulbs to fences and eaves and wonder if those might not work. The clips are kind of like a C in design and you push/snap the item into the clip. I figure using clips, screws and a power screwdriver would make quick time of the fence project (as long as you measured it out properly!). The clips could be left on the wood and the bars (pvc) could be pulled out of the clips at the end of the holiday for storage.

I still have my fence to build so unfortunately can't provide pics yet. I am also thinking of hinging sections of fencing together so it can be collapsed and stored easier.


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## Spanky (Oct 8, 2007)

Heres a pile of fence sections I'm working on-
8' long with roughly 36" pvc stiles roughly every 8" starting 4" from the end. The bottom and middle 1x2s are roughly 6- 12" from the top and bottom. 
The 1x2s are all bent and the rough measurments help accentuate the old twisted effect. I still have to add _floor-dee-lays _or such, and paint, of course.
Oh the holes on the ends are for actual wrought iron anchors, seen here.


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## Turbophanx (Jun 30, 2008)

Terrormaster said:


> Think I'm really leaning towards all wood - 1x2 cross beams, 1x1 bars, and 2x2 posts. Gonna most likely do them in 4-6' sections. Any advice on getting them to stay upright?
> 
> -TM


Exactly what I did....use wooden stakes from home depot attached to the bottom of your fencing to stake it in the ground.

or use metal U clamps to slide over rebar that you stake in the ground.


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## Mister_Data (Aug 25, 2008)

I made my PVC/1x2's fence 3 years ago and instead of drilling holes to attach the PVC to the wood, I simply made sure the holes were drilled slightly bigger so the PVC pipe would slide in easily and then hot glued the heck out of it to fill the space between the PVC and wood. I would lay down the piece of fence, aligned all the PVC pipe and hot glued one side of the fence first. Then turned the fence around and glued the other side. Over the course of 3 years only 2 pieces of fence needed 1 or 2 pieces of PVC re-glued.


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## Dr Morbius (Sep 21, 2004)

Spanky said:


> Heres a pile of fence sections I'm working on-
> 8' long with roughly 36" pvc stiles roughly every 8" starting 4" from the end. The bottom and middle 1x2s are roughly 6- 12" from the top and bottom.
> The 1x2s are all bent and the rough measurments help accentuate the old twisted effect. I still have to add _floor-dee-lays _or such, and paint, of course.
> Oh the holes on the ends are for actual wrought iron anchors, seen here.


Love it..Where did you get the iron anchors?


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## scream1973 (Dec 23, 2007)

heres some of my fence..all wood with plastic finails


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## Terrormaster (Sep 27, 2007)

scream1973 said:


> heres some of my fence..all wood with plastic finails


Where did you get your finials and what size are they? The instructions for the fence I showed a page back used 1". But he had to shave the tops of the bars down for them to fit. I'm thinking of going with a slightly larger size so I don't have to do that. If I'm gonna put the work in to shave the tops I'd rather stick with PVC bars and just drill the holes.

-TM


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## Spanky (Oct 8, 2007)

Dr Morbius said:


> Love it..Where did you get the iron anchors?


Menards -the one by me has a pretty big section on fencing.

scream- awsome looks great with the wood.


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## Mister_Data (Aug 25, 2008)

Terrormaster: those finials look like they come from www.decorativeiron.com

http://www.decorativeiron.com/products.php?view=subcategory&category_id=7&subcategory_id=61

I think I recall buying the 3/4 inch fleur-de-lis and 3/4 inch spear safety ball versions 2 years ago. I routed out the inside a bit, so they will fit over 1/2 inch PVC pipe. Others use a heat gun to soften the bottom of the final and and force/press it over the PVC end.

DI usually has a free shipping offer right before halloween on orders over 50 bucks.


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## Terrormaster (Sep 27, 2007)

Mister_Data said:


> Terrormaster: those finials look like they come from www.decorativeiron.com
> 
> http://www.decorativeiron.com/products.php?view=subcategory&category_id=7&subcategory_id=61
> 
> ...


Nice, thanks... What are the dimentions on the horizontal and vertical slats? I found 1x2 is fairly cheap and sold in 6', 8', 10', and 12' length at a fixed price per length. While 1x1 or even 11/16 x 11/16 was sold by linear feet at roughly 1.30 and 0.62 per LF respectively. Going by that I estimated my costs to be in the neighborhood of $270 for 60' of fence (not including paint,nails, or tax even). PVC may be cheaper but then again, ya get what ya pay for. Wanna make a decision tonight as I need to get a move on this.

Thanks all,
-TM


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## scream1973 (Dec 23, 2007)

I got the finails from kingsmetal.com in the 3/4" size(same place the groupbuy did) and for the most part they slid right on with a lil tap so nice and snug. Some of pieces of wood weren't quite 3/4 x3/4 so i filled those ones with great stuff and stuck them on and then fired a brad nail on each side to keep them down.

Mine was 2x2 for the horizontals ( i just ripped a 2x4 in half on the table saw since i had them kicking around). My verticals are 3/4 x 3/4 idealy but due to having alot of scrap wood in the fencing the thickness wasnt always 3/4.

My total cost on 48' of fencing with the scrap wood i salvaged was approximately $60 including the finials and oops paints.


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## Mister_Data (Aug 25, 2008)

Terrormaster, I went to my garage today and measured my fence for its dimensions:

I used 1/2 inch PVC, 40 inches in length for the vertical slats at 8 inch spacing. The horizontal slats are 1x2's at 10' length.

The finials are of the 3/4 inch type from www.decorativeiron.com. P/N's are:
fleur-de-lis: 16.2030.
safety ball: 16.2028.
My 2006 picture page shows my fence in action.


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## billman (May 3, 2006)

Just wondering how much they want for shipping on the plastic finails?


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## scream1973 (Dec 23, 2007)

From Kingsmetal i think i paid like 28.00 for 90 of them with shipping to Buffalo NY.


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## Mister_Data (Aug 25, 2008)

Several weeks before halloween decorativeiron.com usually has a promotion for free shipping if ordering 50 bucks or more. So that is why I got the fleur-de-lis ones as well to make the order reach 50 bucks. I could then choose if I wanted the safety balls only or a combo on my fence. I did the combo in the end


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## dutton (Sep 6, 2008)

what we have used is pvc with wooden stakes. we take 2 10' lengths of pvc 1 for top and 1 for bottom then we cut some shorter "pickets" and just tie wrap with black tie wraps 1 on top and 1 on bottom. seems to hold up pretty good quick and easy and storage is alot easier torn apart. And it looks old and rickety.


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## Revenant (Mar 17, 2007)

That's cool dutton... it's exactly the opposite of the usual way lol PVC crossbar with wood uprights... got any pics of it assembled?


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## Terrormaster (Sep 27, 2007)

Okies... After much deliberation, price shopping, and designing, I've relegated myself into wood/pvc fences. The real deciding factor is that I spent my power-tool budget on a miter saw instead of a table saw. Buying 1x1 wood would have cost over $168 bucks (1x1 is priced over $1 per LF) to do a measly 60' of wrought iron style fence. If I had a table saw I could have just gotten 1x2x6 and split it into 1x1x6 at $1.74 for 2 6' lengths. The math just didn't work out so I'm gonna suck it up with the holes and go PVC.

So today I bought all the materials for 60' of fence (including wood, pvc, screws, and paint) and two 5' columns (including foam, wood - no luck on milk crates , adhesive, nails, and paints) all for close to $400 total. Next weekend I start on the columns - pics to come.

-TM


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