# Triaxial Skull Labs full skull kit



## BigIron (Dec 31, 2013)

I just recevied a Triaxial Skull Labs full skull kit so am looking to get some hints and tips on the build! 

I'm a computer professional (I'm a systems programmer for big mainframe computers) but know very little about circuit design. I'm wanting a standalone 3-axis skull controller with sound. I've seen Halstaf's Frankenstein board and would like to get something like that but actually building the board is out of my league. Anyone know where I can get something already built?


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## Palmdale Haunter (Mar 3, 2012)

Try asking Steve ( Halstaff ) he's a really good guy, he may help you out...


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## BigIron (Dec 31, 2013)

I have a question about my TSL build. The jaw servo's power wire appears to barely rub the tilt's servo arm. There's not much clearance there. I'm thinking of running the power wire between the servo and the plate. Anyone else done that?


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## HomeyDaClown (Oct 3, 2009)

BigIron said:


> I have a question about my TSL build. The jaw servo's power wire appears to barely rub the tilt's servo arm. There's not much clearance there. I'm thinking of running the power wire between the servo and the plate. Anyone else done that?


You need to flip the servo over (180 degrees) and re-mount the jaw servo arm so that the cable exits on the opposite side.

OR

Fold the cable backwards and run it under the jaw servo heading towards the front.


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## BigIron (Dec 31, 2013)

*Jaw Servo Linkage Question*

I have the hole drlled in the jaw and am ready to drill the hole for the jaw linkage, but the threaded rod seems way too long. Am I supposed to cut the rod?

Also, how freely should the jaw move before being connected to the linkage? Right now, mine is a little stiff (it will stay in whatever poisition I put it).


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## HomeyDaClown (Oct 3, 2009)

The jaw rods are intentionally extra long. You may want to bend the rod into a semi-circle to accomodate the amount of jaw movement you'd like. If you have enough....by all means cut it to length.

The jaw/mandible is hinged on two small points that go into holes on the skull.
Sometimes the holes and or pins need to be cleaned out with a bit of sand paper. You can use a smal dab of grease as well to get better movement.

Personally, I drill the holes and use JB Weld to secure short 1/8" brass tubes. Then I drill out the pins on the mandible and insert either nylon for brass screws and nuts to act as pins. This is because my skulls get a ton of use and I don't want them coming off.


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## BigIron (Dec 31, 2013)

Just now getting back to this. I have my skull built and am ready to test the servos. I do not have a controller yet so what's the best way to test the servos? I understand about disconnecting the jaw linkage so it doesn't pull out the screw in the jaw. I just need a way to quickly test everything.


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## HomeyDaClown (Oct 3, 2009)

Servos require either a simple servo tester or a servo controller board to operate. R/C Servo testers are fairly inexpensive and allow you to manually test individual servos by turning a knob but you still need to provide a power source with enough current to satisfy the servos. 

A google search should get you plenty of R/C Servo testers with many around $5


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## mkozik1 (Sep 6, 2010)

Check out tstraub's Servo Tester http://www.hauntforum.com/showthread.php?t=35079&highlight="servo+tester" it works real well.


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## coldice371 (Jan 7, 2012)

bought a kit last year and was never able to get proper movement; could never figure out where i went wrong even after taking apart and rebuilding several times.


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## halstaff (Nov 18, 2009)

coldice371 said:


> bought a kit last year and was never able to get proper movement; could never figure out where i went wrong even after taking apart and rebuilding several times.


Do you have some photos or video showing your build? I'm sure we can help you get it up and running. I have 2 and am very pleased with the movement.


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## HomeyDaClown (Oct 3, 2009)

coldice371 said:


> bought a kit last year and was never able to get proper movement; could never figure out where i went wrong even after taking apart and rebuilding several times.


We have helped many people to understand the movements....they are pretty basic but it does take the right perspective to really understand what is going on.

First, the nod and tilt servo arms move/rotate very little (less than 30 degrees in most cases) so the Min/Max limits have to be set pretty tight to start. Next, the nod and tilt servo arms must rotate in opposing/reverse direction to each other...so one servo will move from Min toward Max and the other will move from Max toward Min.

The rotate servo simply rotates the whole thing up to a full 180 degrees.

Lastly to really get a good picture of the movement, you have to flip everything over and watch from the bottom up.

Start out with very tight Min/Max limits on the nod and tilt and then increase slowly until you get the desired range of motion.


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