# The Building of the New Jumping Spider



## halstaff

In an effort to add to the scare in the spider portion of our haunt, I added a triggered leaping spider. He'll be placed near the front door and will be the final scare the TOT's will have to pass before they get their candy. I'm planning on adding a spitter as well that will add a great hiss to him and also spray a fine mist. 
Many thanks to Ron at Halloween Overload for the design and help in building him. I had a great time learning to weld and will be adding a welder to the list of things to purchase for next year.


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## Bone Dancer

First off you did an excellent job with the camera, easy to follow along.
How much of the noise at the end of the extending will go away when this is mounted to the ground?
Lastly I figure you don't have to many TOTers make it to the door do you.


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## niblique71

First off, GREAT JOB on your lift. I like the geometry of that 4-bar design. I would love to see some vines of webs on the main lifting bar to obscure it a little bit. This was one possible project I had in mind for this year, and seing this takes the guesswork out of the design. THANKS.

I have that same picaxe kit halstaff (I think). I bought it from Chris at Hauntcast. No documentation, but the kit is complete with programming cable and breadboard and a bunch of other components. I would LOVE to see how you work your relays into the project to actuate the selenoids. Also, if your willing, I might "Borrow" your code for this project. This could be a fast and easy way for me to get this (my first) picaxe up and running. I tend to like to have success first and then get excited about the results and then start to tinker and learn more.

Can and will you have sound??

One last thing, Where did you get your pneumatic Fittings and selenoids?


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## halstaff

Thanks for the nice comments.
The mechanism is actually very quite when it's anchored down. You can hardly hear it when I stand on it. I will be drilling some holes in the outer frame and using big tent stakes to secure it to the lawn. One of the reasons I want to add the spitter is to add some noise to it in addition to the mist.
Niblique, you're welcome to use the code and I'll make sure to post it here once I get it done. Once I have the spitter, I'll finish it up.
If you're using the Picaxe 18 project board that I'm using, check out the documentation here - http://www.rev-ed.co.uk/docs/chi030.pdf With the dual power supplies, I'm controlling the solenoid directly from the board.
I could also run sound with this as there are plenty of unused outputs available but probably won't. I'm hoping the spitter will provide the "Hiss" I'm looking for. Besides, I have so much going on with many different audio tracks in my graveyard that I don't want to add another.
I get most of my pneumatic parts and fittings from Automation Direct - http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Pneumatic_Components They have great prices, the shipping charges are reasonable and I receive my orders quickly.


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## Spooky Dave

Looking awesome! Love the motion, and the bouncing legs. Too cool!


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## kprimm

Beautiful mech, nice fluid movement. You should think about making and selling these.


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## debbie5

Halstaff- Im curious & hope Im not being rude, but about how much did it cost to make that? Any idea how long it took??


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## Dixie

Oh Halstaff, what a great job. That is going to get quite a reaction from your trick or treaters, for sure! And I love how the legs wobble and shake - makes it all the more threatening! 

*Side note: I must admit that I normally zone out when I hear welding and solenoids and such, but you have the greatest voice, I think you could talk the phone book, and I would listen!


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## HalloweenRick

Halstaff could you post your PICAXE code for that, your project is real similar to my build. Also, you did run the 12v power supply through the PICAXE as well? Great job on that spider.


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## halstaff

Thanks everyone for the kind comments. I'm glad you liked it.
Debbie, it's not rude at all to ask the cost. It took me a couple of long evenings to get it built. Spent more time figuring out the exact dimensions so reproducing it would be quicker. I probably spent about $225 on it including the spitter which isn't shown in the video.
Dixie, thank you but the phone book probably wouldn't be as fun to listen to. Maybe I'll have to do more videos although no one even commented on my latest prop video.
Niblique and Rick, I'll be sure to post the code when I get back in town on Monday and have access to my other computer. I'm always willing to share although I'm still learning the programming and it could be cleaner.


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## fritz42_male

The movement is terrific and the build quality superb. If I may offer a small suggestion, a bigger head and body on the spider (I know that this one is a bought version) would be good and if you could use some 3mm red leds as eyes then the TOTers would notice the glowing eyes and then get the surprise as it leaps at them and spits!

I agree with the no sound bit as I've never heard a spider scream (though a background of faint chittering would be good and could just be a small mp3 player on a loop).


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## Dead Things

Great job as always! I notice you tend to run your picaxe off batteries. How many hours do you get from them? Is there a point where the picaxe won't function?


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## halstaff

Pat, I just use batteries to power the Picaxe if I don't have anything else running off it. I check the batteries before I start and they have no problem running for the 3 nights I have my haunt open. 

Here's the code I'm using to run it. It's very basic and easy to adapt for your requirements.

'Picaxe 18M2 Spider, PIR and Spitter

#Picaxe 18M2

Init: 'Just a starting point label 
debug 
Pause 60000 'Wait 60 secs for PIR to 'settle down 
Symbol delay = 5000 'Sets variable delay for making the whole thing wait for a while after pressing the button
high 4 'Raise spider
pause 1000
high 3 'Turn on spitter pump to prime line
high 2 'Turn on air to spitter
pause 5000
low 3 'Turn off spitter pump
low 2 'Turn off air to spitter
low 4 'Lower spider
pause 3000

Testit: 'PIR motion test
readadc 1,b0
debug b0
pause 5 'Brief pause on the checking loop
b0 = b0 + 5 * 1
if b0 < 100 then goto Testit 
goto Jump

Jump:
pause 1000
high 4 'Spider jumps
pause 1000 'Pause for 1 sec 
high 3 'Spitter on
pause 500 'Pause 1/2 second
high 2 'Air for spitter
pause 500 
low 2 'Spitter off
low 3
pause 3000
low 4 'Spider resets
for time = 1 to 75 'retriggger delay of 60 seconds
pause 3000 'Pause 
next time
goto Testit 'Go back and wait for the PIR again


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## HalloweenRick

Thanks Halstaff!


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## paulcav151

halstaff said:


> I get most of my pneumatic parts and fittings from Automation Direct - http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Pneumatic_Components They have great prices, the shipping charges are reasonable and I receive my orders quickly.


As this would be my first venture into Pneumatics, would you mind sharing a list of the pneumatic components you got from AD? I have read the Intro to Pneumatics in the forums, but there are so many choices presented on the ordering site, it would be nice to have a roadmap/list for my first purchase. I know you used this cylinder: A24100DP


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## DeathTouch

what kind of PSI are you at on this project?


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## Creep Cringle

Love this!!! Gives me a whole year to learn about picaxe and pir and what not.... Sorry me cave man no good brain...


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## halstaff

paulcav151 said:


> As this would be my first venture into Pneumatics, would you mind sharing a list of the pneumatic components you got from AD? I have read the Intro to Pneumatics in the forums, but there are so many choices presented on the ordering site, it would be nice to have a roadmap/list for my first purchase. I know you used this cylinder: A24100DP


I used a solenoid similar to the AVS-5212-120A. Make sure to get the appropriate fittings for your particular parts. You'll also need the connector parts for the cylinder. I used the APB-3 pivot bracket and the ARC-716-20 clevis rod and don't forget to pick up some air line. I use 1/4. Another often overlooked but very important part is to always use flow controls such as the FVS14-18N.
It allows you to fine tune the speed your cylinder extends and retracts. By using flow controls and adjusting the PSI from the compressor, you can dial your prop in exactly how you want it.
Hope this helps.


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## halstaff

DeathTouch said:


> what kind of PSI are you at on this project?


I used 40 PSI for mine this year but I may dial that up a bit next year to get it to jump just a little faster.


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