# skull milk jug



## mystang

Re


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## Allen H

Fun! I have a similar technique I wll eventually do a video on, but this is nice and simple. Love it!


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## Pumpkin5

:jol:I love this idea! Wow! My husband drinks like a gallon of milk a day...I will have an army of melty, delicious skulls...soon....very soon.....


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## mystang

Mark by the "ear" on both sides and cut about 3/4 of the way up


















Remove from skull










Apply corpsing with plastic drop cloth.


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## Sytnathotep

That is genius. So trying this, thanks for posting!


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## mystang




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## mystang

Yeah I was trying to make some ground breakers and trying to do some skulls on the cheap. So I tried my hand at paper mache which worked okay just took to long for my taste. Also had issues getting the mache to "release" when I tried wd40 and Pam cooking spray. I thought I would "shrink wrap" the skull which would make it easy to remove it from the skull. Then I thought humm wonder if u can use a few layers of heavy trash bag/drop cloth. Well this did not work so well. Then I was thinking of some heavier plastic I could use. Well I wastaking trash out and went humm....


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## mystang

Sytnathotep said:


> That is genius. So trying this, thanks for posting!


Thanks for the compliment but I used your "skeleton" technique with the rebar wire and drip tubing


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## Hairazor

Nice!!!


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## Vlad

Simply awesome!!


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## pennywise

This is awesome! I wonder if empty soda bottles and water bottles would do the same? I'll be trying this one out soon!


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## mystang

pennywise said:


> This is awesome! I wonder if empty soda bottles and water bottles would do the same? I'll be trying this one out soon!


I tried with some thinner clear plastic it turned white after cooling and was very brittle. Also when I was corpsing with the plastic drop cloth it some what melted the jaw. As it was thinner plastic. Let me know if it works because I can only get the head without the jaw from one gallon jug now. Would be nice to use a 2 liter for the jaw since I have a lot of those as well.


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## GhoulishCop

I am going to drink a gallon of milk tonight just so I can try this. I wouldn't have thought the plastic from the container would melt so nicely. Fantastic technique!

Rich


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## mystang

GhoulishCop said:


> I am going to drink a gallon of milk tonight just so I can try this. I wouldn't have thought the plastic from the container would melt so nicely. Fantastic technique!
> 
> Rich


Yeah nor did i , I will warn you it takes a while to heat up and one more tip I just found out. When it gets nice and hot it becomes real pliable so take a paper towel and ball it up and use it to "form" the plastic. This will really help when doing the jaw. Also from your last blog I thought you were taking a break for a minute during the winter besides dismantling microwaves....

Also I found that the blue plastic from Walmart laundry detergent works real well for this as well.

On this one I was going for the look of his jaw being broken and hanging somewhat.


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## GhoulishCop

"_Also from your last blog I thought you were taking a break for a minute during the winter besides dismantling microwaves...._"

Heh! I always say I'm going to take some time off from prop building, then I see something I like and I'm immediately drawn back in. I saw this technique and thought "I gotta do this!"

How did you shape the jaw? Same way: putting plastic over the jaw and heating the plastic? OR did you just cut out a shape from the jug that replicates the jaw shape?

Being lactose intolerant, I'm going to take a beating on this technique, but it's worth it!

Rich


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## mystang

GhoulishCop said:


> "_Also from your last blog I thought you were taking a break for a minute during the winter besides dismantling microwaves...._"
> 
> Heh! I always say I'm going to take some time off from prop building, then I see something I like and I'm immediately drawn back in. I saw this technique and thought "I gotta do this!"
> 
> How did you shape the jaw? Same way: putting plastic over the jaw and heating the plastic? OR did you just cut out a shape from the jug that replicates the jaw shape?
> 
> Being lactose intolerant, I'm going to take a beating on this technique, but it's worth it!
> 
> Rich


I also heat the plastic and let it form to the jaw, j found it helps when you see the plastic become soft to help form it per say as it becomes like a putty by taking a couple paper towels and balling them up and push on the plastic to help it along. I also like to hit it with water to help freeze it in position. The one above is only my second one I have done so am no expert.

I


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## niblique71

Really Great Idea!!! I'll have to find some milk Juggs and give it a whirl. I don't drink milk either .


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## mystang

niblique71 said:


> Really Great Idea!!! I'll have to find some milk Juggs and give it a whirl. I don't drink milk either .


 I would say you can get the sweet tea in the gallon jugs but since you and ghoulish live up north maybe kind of hard to find that as well as that is what I used for the one in the pictures.


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## Copchick

Great idea!


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## Lunatic

That's a great technique Mystang. Pretty nifty. Thanks for sharing.


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## spideranne

Well isn't that cool.


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## Bone Dancer

OMG, I have been throwing out skulls for years and didnt know it. Thanks for sharing this. I was thinking you could get gallon jugs where they sell water and have empty jugs for sale.


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## Jack Mac

Fantastic idea! I will definitely be giving this a try. Thanks for sharing.


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## pennywise

For those who don't drink milk, there are also 1 gallon jugs that hold orange juice and, as mentioned above, water too. I tried this last night and it did take some time to melt the plastic and it is also a great idea to build a stand like in the tutorial since I burned my fingers twice lol. This is really awesome and since I have been addicted to melting plastic with a heat gun to build props for the past month or 2, this is perfect and I'm going to keep experimenting with it. I got a full bucky skeleton and I'm thinking of possibly making an entire corpse using this method and allen's plastic corpsing.


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## GhoulishCop

Well, I wasn't able to drink a whole gallon last night, but I did put quite a dent in it. Should be done today and I'll be able to start this afternoon! (I was actually just kidding about being lactose intolerant)

A quicker way of getting a gallon jug (or two or ten) would be to go to your local recycling yard. They're sure to have thousands. This past summer when I was making corn stalks, I went to the recycling center and was able to get dozens of plastic water bottles for free to make the ears of corn. Had mystang figured this technique out months sooner, I could have also picked up milk jugs too and not have risked squirting milk out through my nose because I tried downing a whole gallon of it at one sitting.

Depending on my success at finishing the glass or two left in the jug, I'll probably end up hitting up the recycling center soon though. 

Rich


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## beelce

Nice technique..........thanks


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## pennywise

so far I haven't had much luck lol. I turned an empty milk jug into a melted empty milk jug, but that's all lol. Still trying though!


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## mystang

pennywise said:


> so far I haven't had much luck lol. I turned an empty milk jug into a melted empty milk jug, but that's all lol. Still trying though!


I find short sweeping motion or circles tend to help. You are not going to get it in one pass, I find that it may take a few passes to shrink it down some and move on then come back. Next time I do one I will see if I can do a short movie.


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## GhoulishCop

mystang,

So I'm guessing those photos you posted above weren't your first attempt. I need to work on my technique a little as I had a few issues like my milk container moving on me, but that's because I didn't have PVC T fittings for my skull stand so I was working with 90-degree elbows and it wasn't quite as sturdy.










But I actually think I got the hang of it. Like you said, doing multiple passes helps. I also used a length of PVC pipe to help shape the melted plastic around the skull. I'm thinking if I had a spray bottle with water in it it would help also because as I would push the plastic into an undercut -- say at the cheek bone -- the soften plastic would want to sag back out a bit. If I could hold it in place with the PVC pipe and then spray water on it, it might immediately take the shape I wanted.

As I said, my jug shifted on me and my stand wasn't appropriate, but I think if I fix the one problem the other will solve itself. Looking forward to trying it out again. It seems like it's going to be an easy way to make a lot of skulls.

mystang, did you "burn out" your eyes with the heat gun, or did you cut them out? I opted to cut them out after removing it from the skull and as you can see it has sharp edges. Maybe blasting it with the heat gun afterwards would soften them up a bit.

Rich


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## fontgeek

Apply the heat slowly, work from the bottom edges up. Heat rises, so while you are working on the lower parts, the areas above will be softening.
Try using something like an OvGlove or two while you are working, also, having things like wooden spoons, a set of metal measuring cups (cooks and bakers use these for measuring out ingredients all the time), an old butter knife, a golf ball or two, etc.
These odd items let you push the desired shapes into place without the worries of cutting the plastic, with the possible exception being the butter knife. Because it doesn't have a sharp or serrated edge, it allows you to get find relief lines for areas like definition for teeth, suture lines on the top of the skull, etc.
The plastic will typically curl away from the heat, so use that to your advantage, heating the intended eye sockets, then pushing a measuring cup, the spoon or it's handle, or the golfballs into those areas can let you get a smooth, natural looking depression. If you have or can make a ceramic skull to use as a basic form, you will have less worries about the form being damaged during the production of skulls (from the heat at least).


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## mystang

GhoulishCop said:


> mystang,
> 
> So I'm guessing those photos you posted above weren't your first attempt. I need to work on my technique a little as I had a few issues like my milk container moving on me, but that's because I didn't have PVC T fittings for my skull stand so I was working with 90-degree elbows and it wasn't quite as sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I actually think I got the hang of it. Like you said, doing multiple passes helps. I also used a length of PVC pipe to help shape the melted plastic around the skull. I'm thinking if I had a spray bottle with water in it it would help also because as I would push the plastic into an undercut -- say at the cheek bone -- the soften plastic would want to sag back out a bit. If I could hold it in place with the PVC pipe and then spray water on it, it might immediately take the shape I wanted.
> 
> As I said, my jug shifted on me and my stand wasn't appropriate, but I think if I fix the one problem the other will solve itself. Looking forward to trying it out again. It seems like it's going to be an easy way to make a lot of skulls.
> 
> mystang, did you "burn out" your eyes with the heat gun, or did you cut them out? I opted to cut them out after removing it from the skull and as you can see it has sharp edges. Maybe blasting it with the heat gun afterwards would soften them up a bit.
> 
> Rich


I think a stand will help a lot as well as being able to hold items in place and hitting them with water (cheekbones, eye sockets,). The pictures I posted where of the second skull I did. I think my previous experience with using plastic drop cloth (Allen from stillbeast) for corpsing gives you a idea of how the plastic is going to act.

As far as the eye sockets go the first one I heated up and held in place and hit with water to keep the shape, and made hot glue eyes and teeth (finished groudbreaker that was posted). The skull I posted i just wanted to have empty holes so i just blew thru them with the heat gun and trimmed as necessary
I don't worry to much about the cheek bones areas


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## mystang

Cheek bones areas as I like mine to look a bit more "fleshy" then boney as the corpsing will tend to cover over the lower depression area would be anyway. But same with the eye I heat the area up and use either a balled up paper towel to hold it in place to set up or the handle of an exact knife.


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## kprimm

holy cow, never would have thought about melting a milk jug over a skull like that. Looks very cool.


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## pennywise

A short movie would be great. I had the same problem as Ghoulish Cop. the milk jug slid all over the place which is why I ended up with a melted blob instead of a skull. I wonder if I can do this over the plaster skull I made as a sculpting armature without worrying about damaging the it. I'm going to try this again today with a smaller skull because I only have an empty 1/2 gallon OJ jug to work with. Thanks for the tips. I think that heating up the plastic then press it down wit something would lessen the likelihood of damaging the original since you wouldn't need to keep heating until the plastic conformed to the skull.


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## mystang

pennywise said:


> A short movie would be great. I had the same problem as Ghoulish Cop. the milk jug slid all over the place which is why I ended up with a melted blob instead of a skull. I wonder if I can do this over the plaster skull I made as a sculpting armature without worrying about damaging the it. I'm going to try this again today with a smaller skull because I only have an empty 1/2 gallon OJ jug to work with. Thanks for the tips. I think that heating up the plastic then press it down wit something would lessen the likelihood of damaging the original since you wouldn't need to keep heating until the plastic conformed to the skull.


I am using a resin skull from anatomical chart company (4th quality or Halloween type) cost like 13 bucks or so I think. You can throw these in the oven (was attempting to quick dry mache) and the pvc stand would go soft before skull.

Also I always do a pass on the face and lower portion of the head. Which I guess keeps the jug from moving around.


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## pennywise

That's what I'm using as well. i may try to attach the the milk jug to the skull and put the whole shebang in the oven for a few minutes then pat it down is run under cold water


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## mystang

pennywise said:


> That's what I'm using as well. i may try to attach the the milk jug to the skull and put the whole shebang in the oven for a few minutes then pat it down is run under cold water


I thought about that but the fumes cant be good as well as it smells. I melt them outside with the heat gun wearing a resperator.


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## pennywise

My second attempt went way better.


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## mystang

pennywise said:


> My second attempt went way better.


That looks way better then mine, did you use the oven method or?


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## pennywise

I used a heat gun. What I discovered was that when the plastic is hot enough it will turn clear and then you can take a damp sponge or other object to press it to the skull. I used a balled-up wad of newspaper and it gave a great texture that can't really be seen in the crappy iPhone pic lol. I don't think it looks better than yours, I just took care to prerss the plastic into every nook and cranny lol


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## GhoulishCop

pennywise, that looks great! I like the idea of the sponge. Okay, off to finish off another gallon of milk!


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## pennywise

Thanks. I'm going to try this out again later. The one I did was small and used a 1/2 gallon OJ jug, going for the life-size one as soon as I get a jug. Also going to tryt a few other techniques. This really is a great idea!


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## mystang

pennywise said:


> Thanks. I'm going to try this out again later. The one I did was small and used a 1/2 gallon OJ jug, going for the life-size one as soon as I get a jug. Also going to tryt a few other techniques. This really is a great idea!


Before to much longer this is going to turn into show us your milk jug skulls thread


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## GhoulishCop

Hey, nice jugs!


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## Pumpkin5

GhoulishCop said:


> pennywise, that looks great! I like the idea of the sponge. Okay, off to finish off another gallon of milk!


:jol:Less talking....more chugging Rich....


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## Otaku

I'm constantly amazed by the creativity and ingenuity of haunters. Great work, all!


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## the bloody chef

Loved this idea! But since I don't drink milk, I figured I would raid the curbside recycling bins in town....I should be able to get loads of milk jugs in a short time! I'm also gonna try this technique on some other things- like gargoyles and buddhas..:xbones:


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## phillipjmerrill

Awesome. I love this forum. Always someone with a new idea.


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## Joiseygal

I knew I really liked that idea of the milk jug for your skull. This is a great tutorial and thanks so much for sharing!


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## Tinman

Does this require any sort of release agent or does the cooled plastic jug not really stick to the resin skull. I'm sure the molten plastic will probably stick to skin long enough to need some serious aloe or skin grafts if we're not careful.


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## GhoulishCop

Tom,

No release agent necessary. The plastic pops right off the skull. Doesn't quite reach a molten state...unless you really want it to!

Rich


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## MommaMoose

Thank goodness my boy are not lactose intolerant like I am. Looks like I dig out my resin skull tomorrow. Thanks so much for the tutorial!!


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## widowmakerproduction

great technique. Can't wait to see what other people can use this for.


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## mystang

Okay as promised I made (3) videos of how i do the milk jug skulls, but i am not sure how this forum does the embedded code..... I put them on the first post and here, anybody help me out?


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## Pumpkin5

:jol:Nice videos Mystang. Can I just applaud you on your safety measures? Well done sir, well done! Very helpful addition to your picture tutorial....okay...and I will just come out and say it...the Golden Retriever??? He/She is gorgeous and what a camera hog! Love the vidoes, love the dog more.....


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## GhoulishCop

mystang,

The videos were helpful. We just made a whole bunch of skulls today at our M&T and we got the technique down pat now. We were able to get a great amount of detail from the resin skulls we were using.

One thing we found was getting a large area of the jug to turn transparent from the heat gun and then pressing it into the skulls gave us better results than doing small areas. And rather than using a sponge, we used an artist's brush, about 1" wide, to press the plastic against the skull.

Standing our base in a foil pan, it allowed us to have plenty of water on hand to immediately cool the melted plastic and hold its shape. Also, when I removed the skull from the resin form rather than cut the ear at the side I made a slit up the back of the skull to the crown and they generally came off with just a little effort.

Additionally, we used an old soldering iron to seal the joint back up. It made a virtually invisible seam by melting the two pieces together. And one last thing, prior to removing the head from resin skull, we dunked the entire thing in a bucket of cold water. We noticed the resin skull retained a lot of heat after we had finished and dunking it so cooled the entire thing off immediate and made the plastic skull hard so that removal became easier.

Here's are two pictures of one of the skulls I made today using this technique:



















It's a really great technique and I'll point out to the lactose intolerant amongst us that they also sell water in these jugs for less than a dollar. Thanks for sharing it mystang!

Rich


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## mystang

Pumpkin5 said:


> :jol:Nice videos Mystang. Can I just applaud you on your safety measures? Well done sir, well done! Very helpful addition to your picture tutorial....okay...and I will just come out and say it...the Golden Retriever??? He/She is gorgeous and what a camera hog! Love the vidoes, love the dog more.....


She was a rescue dog and same with the German shepard. She is a golden retriever mix of some sort but just not as big.

I was not sure how they would turnout considering my first tutorial and shooting with my cellphone.


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## niblique71

I Hearby Dubb this technique "Skulljuggery"


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## mystang

GhoulishCop said:


> mystang,
> 
> The videos were helpful. We just made a whole bunch of skulls today at our M&T and we got the technique down pat now. We were able to get a great amount of detail from the resin skulls we were using.
> 
> One thing we found was getting a large area of the jug to turn transparent from the heat gun and then pressing it into the skulls gave us better results than doing small areas. And rather than using a sponge, we used an artist's brush, about 1" wide, to press the plastic against the skull.
> 
> Standing our base in a foil pan, it allowed us to have plenty of water on hand to immediately cool the melted plastic and hold its shape. Also, when I removed the skull from the resin form rather than cut the ear at the side I made a slit up the back of the skull to the crown and they generally came off with just a little effort.
> 
> Additionally, we used an old soldering iron to seal the joint back up. It made a virtually invisible seam by melting the two pieces together. And one last thing, prior to removing the head from resin skull, we dunked the entire thing in a bucket of cold water. We noticed the resin skull retained a lot of heat after we had finished and dunking it so cooled the entire thing off immediate and made the plastic skull hard so that removal became easier.
> 
> Here's are two pictures of one of the skulls I made today using this technique:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a really great technique and I'll point out to the lactose intolerant amongst us that they also sell water in these jugs for less than a dollar. Thanks for sharing it mystang!
> 
> Rich


I will have to give it a try with the artist brush.


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## mystang

GhoulishCop said:


> mystang,
> 
> The videos were helpful. We just made a whole bunch of skulls today at our M&T and we got the technique down pat now. We were able to get a great amount of detail from the resin skulls we were using.
> 
> One thing we found was getting a large area of the jug to turn transparent from the heat gun and then pressing it into the skulls gave us better results than doing small areas. And rather than using a sponge, we used an artist's brush, about 1" wide, to press the plastic against the skull.
> 
> Standing our base in a foil pan, it allowed us to have plenty of water on hand to immediately cool the melted plastic and hold its shape. Also, when I removed the skull from the resin form rather than cut the ear at the side I made a slit up the back of the skull to the crown and they generally came off with just a little effort.
> 
> Additionally, we used an old soldering iron to seal the joint back up. It made a virtually invisible seam by melting the two pieces together. And one last thing, prior to removing the head from resin skull, we dunked the entire thing in a bucket of cold water. We noticed the resin skull retained a lot of heat after we had finished and dunking it so cooled the entire thing off immediate and made the plastic skull hard so that removal became easier.
> 
> Here's are two pictures of one of the skulls I made today using this technique:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a really great technique and I'll point out to the lactose intolerant amongst us that they also sell water in these jugs for less than a dollar. Thanks for sharing it mystang!
> 
> Rich


I will have to try out the artist brush technique.


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## GhoulishCop

Detail isn't always clear when shooting the plastic, so this morning I decided to paint one up and see how it goes. Yesterday we tried using a plastic-adhering spray paint and then spraying a regular paint on top of it. While the plastic paint stuck no problem, the top coat wouldn't adhere and gave it a Dios de los Muertos look to the skull. Not bad if that's what you're going for, but I wasn't.

So today I used regular latex white paint and applied two coats to the skull with no problem. I then used a redwood stain (it's all I had on hand at the moment) over the top and then gently wiped it off. If you rub too hard you can definitely remove the base coats.

I think it ended up coming out okay. Perhaps a little corpsing over the top would complete the look if you wanted to use it on a groundbreaker or other prop.

Here's the completed skull:

















The original skull and the replica:


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## GhoulishCop

And for what it's worth, here's my Dios de los Muertos skull


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## nimblemonkey

Awesome technique and great tutorial videos. I've already been saving milk jugs as I was going to do another technique of transforming them but I like this one better. I have a heat gun and know how to use it! Just have to get a respirator. Thanks for posting this.


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## pennywise

Those look great GhoulishCop.
Thanks for posting the video, mystang. It helped a lot seeing how you do it. What I was doing with the sponge and the balled up newspaper is using it to press the soft plastic into the details of the skull. I started another one today, maybe I can finish it up and post it tomorrow.


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## GhoulishCop

Just figured I'd post another pic of a skull I made using this great technique. This one, though, I filled with Great Stuff to provide some mass and it worked out just fine.

I filled it about half way and it ended up expanding well beyond the confines of the skull, so I trimmed it down with a serrated knife prior to painting. I have another jug just waiting to be melted, which I think I'm going to try a corpsing method on and maybe an open mouth this time. I really do love this technique! So many options.

Rich


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## mystang

Rich 

Looks good what did you use for the hair and how did you attach it


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## GhoulishCop

mystang,

I picked up hair extensions at the local dollar store and cut off a length that seemed appropriate. I then attached it using hot glue.

You gotta be careful with these extensions though if they're going to be around heat. I don't know how anyone could even wear them because they easily shrivel and burn. When I sculpted a head last year I was able to get a neat hair style for it by using a heat gun to get the needed look, but it scares me that people might actually be putting these things on their heads. LOL!

Rich


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## mystang

GhoulishCop said:


> mystang,
> 
> I picked up hair extensions at the local dollar store and cut off a length that seemed appropriate. I then attached it using hot glue.
> 
> You gotta be careful with these extensions though if they're going to be around heat. I don't know how anyone could even wear them because they easily shrivel and burn. When I sculpted a head last year I was able to get a neat hair style for it by using a heat gun to get the needed look, but it scares me that people might actually be putting these things on their heads. LOL!
> 
> Rich


That is what I figured u had used, I bet you get some odd looks buying those... and even more explaining its for Halloween when its Feb.


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## Pumpkin5

GhoulishCop said:


> Just figured I'd post another pic of a skull I made using this great technique. This one, though, I filled with Great Stuff to provide some mass and it worked out just fine.
> I filled it about half way and it ended up expanding well beyond the confines of the skull, so I trimmed it down with a serrated knife prior to painting. QUOTE]
> 
> :jol:Not trying to hijack Mystang's thread or anything, but I am so glad that someone posted that they could be filled with GreatStuff. I wondered about that and hated to start something I would regret. I agree how versatile this skull is and I think we all owe a big THANK YOU to Mystang for coming up with this great money saver for cheap skulls that still look pretty dang good.


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## pennywise

Pumpkin5 said:


> GhoulishCop said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just figured I'd post another pic of a skull I made using this great technique. This one, though, I filled with Great Stuff to provide some mass and it worked out just fine.
> I filled it about half way and it ended up expanding well beyond the confines of the skull, so I trimmed it down with a serrated knife prior to painting. QUOTE]
> 
> :jol:Not trying to hijack Mystang's thread or anything, but I am so glad that someone posted that they could be filled with GreatStuff. I wondered about that and hated to start something I would regret. I agree how versatile this skull is and I think we all owe a big THANK YOU to Mystang for coming up with this great money saver for cheap skulls that still look pretty dang good.
> 
> 
> 
> AGREED! Thank you so much mystang for thid awesome technique!!
Click to expand...


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## mystang

I figure I have stole and will continue to steal ideas from this site so might as well give something back


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## mystang

Busy morning and three jugs later


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## Pumpkin5

:jol:Nice work! You are really perfecting the method, looks really great.


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## RoxyBlue

Those look wonderful!


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## GhoulishCop

mystang,

Making these skulls is like taking crack. I can't stop! LOL!

I make them now as I finish a gallon of milk, and today went food shopping and bought a gallon of water ($0.88!) just so I could make another one still. The last one I made I fashioned it into a skull with an open mouth, cutting off the lower jaw and then reattaching it using the wood burning tool to solder the plastic together. I then filled the cavity with Great Stuff and cut out the mouth area:










I think it currently gives it too much of a smiling look, more like the Joker from Batman, but probably because I attached it too far back. I'll be using stretch spider webbing on this one for the corpsing and I'll try to narrow down those "laugh lines."

However, I like your jawless skulls and think I'll be making a bunch of them next.

Rich


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## susan from creepy hollow

Ingenious!!!!


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## pennywise

I too make them as fast I empty a jug lol. I got family holding jugs for me. I'm even thinking about calling the local recycling center and asking if I can pick up 25 or so. I have 3 now and staring a fourth tomorrow. I had a few mishaps and wasted (I think) 3 jugs. The next one I will attempt to complete with Allen H's plastic corpsing tutorial, since I have an over abundance of think pellet fuel bags


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## mystang

pennywise said:


> I too make them as fast I empty a jug lol. I got family holding jugs for me. I'm even thinking about calling the local recycling center and asking if I can pick up 25 or so. I have 3 now and staring a fourth tomorrow. I had a few mishaps and wasted (I think) 3 jugs. The next one I will attempt to complete with Allen H's plastic corpsing tutorial, since I have an over abundance of think pellet fuel bags


I corpse them with Allen's technique and I find that it works best and no need to fill them with greatstuff


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## ladysherry

We did this at our MnT on Saturday. We made 3 skulls and I will be seeing if painted with drylok and grey paint it will look like concrete. If it works then it will be on one of my headstones as the centerpiece. This technique has SO many possibilies.


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## mystang

ladysherry said:


> We did this at our MnT on Saturday. We made 3 skulls and I will be seeing if painted with drylok and grey paint it will look like concrete. If it works then it will be on one of my headstones as the centerpiece. This technique has SO many possibilies.


Post some pictures when you do as that sounds like i may have to steal that idea.


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## QueenRuby2002

I have foam skulls do you think this would work on them or would I need a releas agent? If not I might have to spring for a better sckull just so I can do this.


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## RoxyBlue

QR, I think the issue might be the heat melting the foam skull as well as the plastic.


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## mystang

QueenRuby2002 said:


> I have foam skulls do you think this would work on them or would I need a releas agent? If not I might have to spring for a better sckull just so I can do this.


I would think that the foam would "melt" from the heat. I would say you need to get a resin bucky skull. You can get the for about $15 after shipping


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## ladysherry

mystang said:


> I would think that the foam would "melt" from the heat. I would say you need to get a resin bucky skull. You can get the for about $15 after shipping


You have to watch the resin ones. I melted mine doing the milk jug skulls now I use a concrete skull form. Just make sure you keep cooling it off with water.


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## Dark Angel 27

Cool!


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## pennywise

I made a silicone mold of a plastic skull, then cast it in hydrocal. I now use this plaster cast to form milk jug skulls.


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## spinwitch

I finally tried my hand at this--pretty good for something that's free!


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## Daphne

Yes, I know, here I am on another ancient thread.... Pennywise indicated that the thin water bottles were a fail because they got super brittle and turned white. Has anyone tried using thicker clear plastic bottles? Voss, CranGrape and OJ bottles are all quite a bit thicker but are clear. I am curious about using this technique for flames as well as skulls but want it to stay clear. The clear bottles are more rigid than a milk bottle so I'm concerned they won't work any better than the thin ones. The videos are gone but I remember them from when they were initially posted but am sorry the dog pic is gone. Thanks.


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