# Yet Anudder Fogger Pump Thread!



## Saturday8pm

OK, here's D p_00_p:

Fogger: Chauvet Hurricane 1050
Pump: Shinlef Micro Pump Model DSB-4 Type 40DSB 25 Watt

Problem: Pump wants to work, but it seems seized. When I loosen the outflow elbow, she purrs! Tighten it to OEM standards, it just buzzes. It can't operate this loose, she leaks otherwise. Methinx the O-Rings I rigged into it are too large and screw up operation. But it didn't work with the original rings either! Opened 'er up and found, in order of deepest to least:

Pump Housing:

Large Spring
Piston ( has gouges on one side ... metal stress due to use, or poor machining? )
Small O-Ring
Large O-Ring
Brass Washer
Small O-Ring
Large White "Piston" Cap

Elbow Outlet:

Black Backflow Ball ( attached to )
Spring
Black Gasket Washer ( rubber )

Unverified:

Internal Spring for Piston
Piston Cap ( the above spring attaches to )

These pumps are common but my parts list doesn't match some DiY info posted by members here. This pump has the usual piston / plunger with spring behind it, but it doesn't seem to feature that small "cap" atop the piston shaft. Instead, I've got a large white cap that fits into the brass outlet valve which caps the piston. I'm assuming this is a variation of the other cap design. As far as the piston shaft that fits inside the piston cap, I see no evidence of a spring inside, but there is some goop at the tip and that could be concealing the spring inside. If this system is really the same as the other design, then my pump failure is clear: the internal piston spring has become detached from the large white cap.

Net: Can anyone verify my parts list and confirm that for the Shinlef 40D pump an internal piston spring must be attached to the piston cap?

Bad Things I Did: I lost the original piston cap O-Ring. I found something comparable but slightly larger. Same goes for the black elbow gasket. I think the O-Ring I retrofitted with it is incompatible as it seems to be impeding the piston cap's free movement. There's only so much range of parts one can frankenstein for these pumps that your average hardware store will carry.

I have two. They're newer units, but I didn't store them with fog juice or distilled H2O. Me bad. If I get 'em operational, will do.

_Please help me turn this thread from a "Thumbs Down" to a "Thumbs Up"! 
_
Thanks.


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## Saturday8pm

Anyone have success resurrecting one of these pups?


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## Saturday8pm

Whoever Scott and Gary Adams are, thanks! Those articles are the best yet.

Still can't get it to work though ... I _do_ seem to have the cap in the plunger though, so that may not be my problem ...


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## Saturday8pm

Anudder cloo:

When I reassemble the pump with all the washers in and tighten it all the way, 
it seizes, but when loosened significantly, it works. Of course, it leaks ...

Help!!!


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## Saturday8pm

I MAY HAVE FOUND THE ANSWER TO MY ORIGINAL QUESTION.

It seems that the replacement washers I bought may be slightly big ... now, the ones I found at Ace are EVERYWHERE, Hillman I believe, but I'm going to have to find another supplier that'll have the smaller washers / O-rings. Good Luck there ... common plumbing suppliers don't carry 'em either.


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## Otaku

Saturday8pm said:


> Whoever Scott and Gary Adams are, thanks! Those articles are the best yet.


Gary is me, glad the pump repair how-to was of some help. Yeah, oversized parts could definitely be a problem. If you're havng trouble finding the right ones, check the metric sizes - most of these pumps are built in China etc.


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## Palmdale Haunter

You might try looking online at mcmaster.com they have a huge selection of parts...


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## Saturday8pm

thank you, Thank You, THANK YOU for responding!

Yes Gary, it is a help. Thanks for that link, Palmdale, I'll check into it.

The problem happened when I opened it up. Pump was clean inside but the seal on the elbow got ruined. That's the "washer" you see first. It's an odd piece since it allows the moving parts to flutter inside the elbow. It was flat and had a line depression around the midpoint of its circumference, which allowed the fluttering similar to a heart valve. Then I lost the small O-Ring that went on the underside of the plastic piston cap.

I'll try to measure them as close as possible in metric and see what McMaster offers.

As for my other fogger of the same make, I'm gonna swap out the old rubber hose and not touch the pump at all – I figger I'll try to refill it with juice and let it sit a few days THEN fire it up.

Thanks, guys!


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## Saturday8pm

:ninja:

It's been a looong time since I lurked here last.

Never got back to the workbench on this project and it's best to scrap the old pumps.

Does anybody know of a suitable replacement for the Chauvet 1050? I don't have it in 
front of me and I've read in different places that a good ol' fashioned auto window 
washer pump will suffice but I don't have the volts/amperage. Not just that; I've read 
that replacement pumps are usually sold by the pallet, hence my question. Pallet? 
No, I _don't_ think so!

What have you done?


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## Saturday8pm

Hmmm ... totally forgot this site has a dedicated forum for this; did a cursory search and 
Yowza! found FrightBoy's thread. So ... I'm gonna guess this puppy from American DJ will 
suffice? I've seen windshield washer pumps go for about $6 ...


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## Saturday8pm

*Success!!! Woot! Woot!*

The Unit: Chauvet Hurricane 1050. 
( x2; Circa 2006 )

The Original Complaint: No Fog.

The Original Suspect: The Pump.

The TRUE Villain: The Heater Block.

Summary: Purchased both in 2008, used once. Swapped out LOTS of parts and through trial and error managed to bring them back from the dead, close to their original output. Added two timers and will turn both into Fog Chillers.

The Bad Thing I Did: Foggers need help to die and lack of proper operation will surely kill these things in short order. Clamping the Start button to avoid buying a timer is one of many things one can do to cause the unit to overheat and alas, burn fog solution inside the aluminum Heater Block and cause an irreversible clog.

The Remedies: First, yes, one Shinlef Pump was fried. The tiny spring inside had broken and, just as with others' experiences, was lost over the course of repair, as was a critical O-Ring. Strike One.

Two New Pumps, the Antari SP-35A, as the Shinlefs cannot be had within reason. $44 online. New spade connectors, new holes to mount, new 1/8" vinyl tubing fed through a new rubber stopper on the Fluid Tank ( since the stopper was solid, I drilled a hole ). WILL NOT USE WHITE VINEGAR TO MAINTAIN THE UNIT EVER AGAIN.

Bypassed the clog and instead bored a NEW hole straight through the length of The Heater Block's aluminum tube core. The result is a slightly larger path by which one can actually clean the heater should it clog again, which it surely will. NO HARSH CHEMICALS NECESSARY.

Now, all this fooling around stripped the brass nipples at both ends of The Heater Block, the Antari necessitated a new connection scheme between the heater and The Fluid Tank, so it was off to find standard parts to fit non-standard Chinese connectors. Granted, some of these parts weren't easily had. Thanks to local plumbing suppliers, McMaster-Carr I was able to cobble together a new connection scheme.

Parts:

Antari SP-35A Pump
3/16" Pliable Copper Tubing w/Brass Compression Sleeves
Brass Nipple w/Adapter: 3/8" Male x 1/4" Female + 3/16" x 1/4" Male Pipe
( McMaster-Carr Parts 4429K412 and 5220K63 )
Rubber Stopper w/Two Brass Insertion Sleeves
1/4" Push Connect Male Adaptor ( replaced connector on the Antari; too small )
1/4" Vinyl Tubing
Fiberglass Insulation
Plumbing Tape
Spade Connectors for wiring

So, because The Brass Nipples had been stripped and the openings on either end of The Heater Block were of a non-standard bore, I had to re-bore these too so I could fit new connectors. The new pump required new tubing as the existing Copper Tubing was rigid and I hadn't the tools to safely bend them. I also found The Vinyl Tubing I originally bought, 1/8", was not drawing a safe amount of Fog Fluid to the pump, so I refitted the 1/8" push connector on The SP-35A to a 1/4".

I couldn't save the insulation jacket that covered The Heater Block so I used some of the pink attic fiberglass insulation I had hanging around and wrapped that in Plumbing Tape to hold the whole thing together. To add a layer of heat protection to The Circuit Board, I stuffed a small pillow of insulation between The Heater Block and that panel.

To Test: Remarkably, it worked, well. On one.

The Dead Fogger: I knew both Pumps worked as I swapped them out between the working unit. What could it be? Doing continuity checks, I found the culprit, eventually. I do know scanning YouTube® accounts that there's a black Relay Switch on The Board that can go bad, the Sanyou SRD-S-112D. It's that larger black square component on the board that governs The Pump once The Heater Block comes to temperature. This will "click" when The Heater is ready and The Red Light will glow. If this part goes bad, you will get an open circuit. Also well worth mentioning is The Thermal Switch that sits atop The Heater Block: If this goes you will have an open circuit. It acts as a fuse to prevent a fire. Also, there's a Leveling Switch built into this too. If the unit is operated at an unacceptable angle, that switch will open the circuit. I knew the unit was equipped with one but didn't know which part. It wasn't until I had The Thermal Switch unfastened and dangling during a test I realized The Leveling Switch was built into The Thermal Switch. I don't know if these parts are readily obtained.

The problem was none of these. To compound the confusion, both foggers, while the same model, did NOT have the same wiring scheme! One must've been made on a Monday. After doing further continuity tests, I determined it was not The White Neutral Wire going to The Pump, rather it was a short length of The Black Hot Wire that was the culprit. I discovered this by jumping the soldered terminal of The Black Hot Wire to The Pump by using some wire I had and - VOiLA! A closed circuit! So, I cut the first length of The Black Hot Wire from The Spade Connector to the first factory-made wire splice and it worked. Somehow that last short bit of wire either shorted or had become loose.

NO MORE DEAD FOGGERS. We'll finally have fog for the first time since '08.

Now, I know what you're thinkin': WHY didn't I just ship these units back to Chauvet for $60 each? For that they'll get your unit going again. Simple: I thought I could do it cheaper. NOPE. I probably spent $100 each after botching parts and wasted time. Lesson learned? Probably not. Once you open that thing up and start tinkering, all bets for that are off.

PLUS: You're at an advantage: Now you can service your own clogs without nasty chemicals.

The Risk? Well, that Antari is NOT the same spec as The Shinlef, obviously. So I could face a time, Hell maybe this Halloween, where the draw on that Antari will fry The Board.

Hey, ya gotta try.


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