# alternative to paper mache



## discozombie (Jun 21, 2012)

Good Day haunters, 
Well while cleaning the garage this spring I discovered I was unknowingly feeding a small army of mice in my garage with my mache scarecrow prop. Well my prop is pretty much down to the armature. so I was kicking alternatives to mache to cover it with. Something water proof and not tasty to rodents. So besides monster mud what else can I use? I was thinking fiberglass resin and cheesecloth or fleece. Im not looking for strength or at least no more than news paper and flour/glue can provide. But ive never worked with fiberglass before so I dont know its limitations, working time etc. Any insight would be great or alternative suggestions. 
thanks
DZ


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## deadSusan (Jun 26, 2013)

I had the same problem. Two winters in a row. So the next time I repaired it I didn't use flour. Just glue with water. 
Another haunter uses shop towels dipped in latex paint. It sounds like a good idea, though I haven't tried it yet.


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## Bone Dancer (Oct 7, 2005)

White glue (elmers) and water would be less tasty to the mice then flour and water mache. Part of the problem is that mice will chew on anything not only for food but for making bedding. I checked around and found that putting the item in a plastic bag and putting in dryer sheets (cheapest no-brand), or moth balls in an old sock would help repel mice. Since they are sealed up it will last longer.


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## fontgeek (Jul 24, 2006)

The resin is not cheap, and you really have to be all ready when you go to use it.
That means all of your cloth needs to be already cut to size and laid out, and your armature has to be set up, all ready to work on before you mix the resin and the catalyst/hardener together. Your work area needs to be REALLY well ventilated and you have to have clothes and gear you can either trash or throw away when you are done.
If you use fiberglass cloth or matting, then you also need to be very careful in cutting and handling it. Those tiny threads give you tiny paper-cuts and will make you itch like nobody's business. You would need to wear full covering, a respirator, and ideally gloves too. The gloves need to be able to hold up to the resin and catalyst, that mixture can melt some gloves because of the solvent and or the heat generated by the hardening resin. Brushes need to be disposable too.


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## discozombie (Jun 21, 2012)

thanks Fontgeek solid advice.


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## fontgeek (Jul 24, 2006)

You might consider something simpler than the laminating resin. Maybe a thick polyurethane finish, like you'd use for gym floors. Put your burlap/cloth sack over the head of your scarecrow and brush it down with a coat of the finish and let it dry. Repeat the process 'til you are happy with the results. You can come back and scuff the finished surface with a fine sandpaper or Scotchbrite pad to give it more of a cloth/matte look.
I'd test the finish with a scrap of the cloths you intend to use to make sure that they are compatible BEFORE you apply it to the finished piece.


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## tot13 (Jul 25, 2007)

I use liquid starch and cut it with a little warm water


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## heresjohnny (Feb 15, 2006)

I use starch, and coat finished products with polyurethane well before painting. Unprotected mache, even with starch, get chewed up if I leave them around too long before adding urethane. I know some people who have used sculpt or coat, and bondo can work well in some cases.


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## tot13 (Jul 25, 2007)

Agreed. My outdoor mache props made it over a month in the woods with no damage, weather or rodents, because of spar urethane.


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## matrixmom (Aug 20, 2011)

Ditto - spar urethane, and no flour.


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## matrixmom (Aug 20, 2011)

I just posted on stolloween thread how he prevents this from happening since he is the king of paper mache.


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## heresjohnny (Feb 15, 2006)

Yup, I use Stolloween's recipes and techniques too, works great


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## STOLLOWEEN (Apr 13, 2008)

Yes, papier mache props and mice or squirrels or chipmunks can be a problem. We store a majority of pieces in our garage which is separate from the house and have had a couple of winters where mice have gotten in and had a field day. First I'm not 100% convinced that the flour aspect of paste makes your props a target...mice chew everything including cardboard, blankets, sleeping bags, canvas, etc. I have found that they usually don't chew surfaces covered with a sealant (polyurethane, spar urethane, acrylic) but if the prop is hollow such as a skull or a pumpkin they will chew it from the inside where there I have not coated with sealant. A few suggestions as to storage.
1. Store in an area without rodents, instead of a shed or garage keep them in an attic or basement.
2. Take measures to make your garage mouse free. After the first year of mice we emptied and cleaned our garage, sealed gaps in the siding, caulked windows, set traps, etc.
3. Store your props in containers that mice can't enter. Large plastic bins, large plastic bags such as artificial Christmas tree bags...even consider building a large crate or small room from plywood that can be sealed and act as protection.
4. Finally I have read about a number of rodent deterrents...dryer sheets, peppermint oil, etc, sonic device...maybe give one or two of these a try, for the record I have never tried any of these methods. 

Make Halloween prop storage and protection part of your seasonal build...it sucks to put a lot of work into your props onl


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## divinedragon7 (May 29, 2009)

I had the same problem, little field mice stripped a full sized paper machie gelatin to the chicken wire frame one year. I've found putting on a few coats of water proofing seems to keep them away from the rest of my stuff.


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