# My First Static Figure



## Zombie-F (Apr 12, 2004)

I started/finished my first PVC-framed dummy today! Over the weekend, I got an Emperor of Evil costume at Ocean State Job Lot for $17 (Fright Catalog wants like $30 for it), so I decided to get some PVC pipe, connectors, a wig head and some hardware cloth (leftover from another project) and went to Zombietronix to calculate the frame dimensions. A few hours later, and BAM! A new prop.

It was already dark when I finished it, so no good daylight photos just yet. I had to shine a nearby green floodlight on him to get him to show up, but here he is:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/Zombie-F/Emperor%20of%20Evil/StaticFigure-01.jpg​


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## spokanejoe (Sep 16, 2006)

Excellent....fit for any graveyard!


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## Eric Striffler (May 6, 2006)

Niceeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.


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## slimy (Jul 12, 2006)

Spooky. Yard is lookin' good.


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

Nice. What did you use to pad him up and give hime some bulk? Or do you have photos of what he looks like under the costume. Your gloves work out well and the positioning of the weapon.

I got one of those costumes last year and almost used it on my grim reaper. I more or less used the ScareFX instructions. My grim reaper's coat hanger wire hands didn't work out. The coat hanger wire was too short to make a full hand for some reason. I gave him glowing eyes and a Scary Sound maker under his chest that was a hit with the T-o-T's last year that should make up for the lasck of finish.

My scarecrow was a lot easier as it doesn't have to look human. That's using a store bought post-Halloween costume also. I want to make a Zombie now that I see Don of the Dead's. Lots of cross-posting but they're all simialr in the basic PVC static construction approach, and if I have time I'd like to bulk up my reaper and make his hands grip the scythe if I knew out how ; )


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## ScareFX (Aug 18, 2004)

That prop looks good in the graveyard Z! What amazes me about PVC dummies is how many people expect them to be "live". When you do the proportions well like you did, you'll fool a bunch of people.


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## Zombie-F (Apr 12, 2004)

To fill out the chest of him, I used some hardware cloth to form a "chest" and lower abdomen so I could tie the belt off to him. I think I still need to fill out the arms a little, and I may get some pipe insulation to wrap around the PVC for that.

You're right ScareFX, if you get the proportions just right and fill the body out appropriately, it looks like something that could easily walk at you. I may use this to my advantage and replace the dummy on Halloween with my brother wearing the same costume to mislead all those people that have seen it day in and day out standing there.

My wife came home tonight and had to go check him out because I didn't tell her I made him and she thought somebody was standing out there.


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## Zombie-F (Apr 12, 2004)

For the hands, I traced out my hand on a sheet of paper and cut five lengths of 14 guage SOLID wire to the lengths of my fingers. I then bent them into the "shape" of my hand and taped the bottom together with masking tape. I then taped the meaty part of the hand with tape so the wire would hold its shape and proportions.

From there, I used some cotton rags (the company I work for uses for cleaning products) to fill out the meaty part of the hand and taped it onto the frame. I did the same for the fingers, wrapping the cotton rags around the finger frames and taping into place.

At the bottom of the hand, where all the wires are taped together, I keep wrapping cotton napkin material and tape around it until it's of a diamater that slides into the end of the PVC pipe snugly.

Viola! Hands! If I have the time (and remember to do so) I'll make another hand and photograph the process. It doesn't take very long, and you wind up with a pretty good posable hand that works well inside a glove.


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## ScareFX (Aug 18, 2004)

Fright Zone said:


> Nice. What did you use to pad him up and give hime some bulk? Or do you have photos of what he looks like under the costume. Your gloves work out well and the positioning of the weapon.
> 
> I got one of those costumes last year and almost used it on my grim reaper. I more or less used the ScareFX instructions. My grim reaper's coat hanger wire hands didn't work out. The coat hanger wire was too short to make a full hand for some reason. I gave him glowing eyes and a Scary Sound maker under his chest that was a hit with the T-o-T's last year that should make up for the lasck of finish.
> 
> My scarecrow was a lot easier as it doesn't have to look human. That's using a store bought post-Halloween costume also. I want to make a Zombie now that I see Don of the Dead's. Lots of cross-posting but they're all similar in the basic PVC static construction approach, and if I have time I'd like to bulk up my reaper and make his hands grip the scythe if I knew out how ; )


Both of those props look good Fright Zone! As for the hands, I had to use the entire length of a coat hanger to make the fingers long enough. But to tell you the truth, the witch hands I made based on Merlin's Corpse Hands were much better for "gripping".

Zombie-F's solution seems like a real good one too!


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## Dreadnight (Jul 9, 2006)

Zombie - that really looks like a person standing there.... you got all the proportions perfect! Looking forward to the poseable hand how-to...


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## NickG (Sep 12, 2006)

He looks great! I measured myself to make all my PVC frames... I had to trim a couple down to fit the clothes I had though b/c I'm a little on the tall side...


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## kerryike (Oct 5, 2006)

Looks very nice. Proportions are excellent. 

I also like the graveyard... the lighting near the fence. 

Job well done.


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## jdubbya (Nov 6, 2005)

Very impressive! Pardon my ignorance but what is "hardware cloth"?


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## Zombie-F (Apr 12, 2004)

jdubbya said:


> Very impressive! Pardon my ignorance but what is "hardware cloth"?


It's a wire mesh similar to chicken wire. Except where chicken wire is hexagonal in the shape of the mesh, the hardware cloth is square in shape. It's also a thicker guage than chicken wire, so it'll hold a shape better.


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

Yes and as gmacted clued me in for the ice tray on the fog chillers, hardware mesh is found in the fencing section at Lowes and Home Depot, usually outside, by the chicken wire. It comes in a roll. Mine was 2ft x 5ft 19 gauge "Galvanized to resit rust" "for Screen door guard, storage bins, animal pens" they forgot "Halloween fog chillers and props" LOL. I got mine at Lowes for $6. You use tin snips to cut it and it's very sharp so maybe wear work gloves or be careful. Use black duct tape on the edges before you bend the torso into shape if using it for a prop. If using it for a fog chiller ice tray, tie it to the PVC frame with zip ties. And add a couple more zip ties to the hardware mesh like loops so you can lift up on the tray if you have to. Hardware mesh doesn't cut you easily but you know it's there if you get stabbed by it.


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## jdubbya (Nov 6, 2005)

Zombie-F said:


> It's a wire mesh similar to chicken wire. Except where chicken wire is hexagonal in the shape of the mesh, the hardware cloth is square in shape. It's also a thicker guage than chicken wire, so it'll hold a shape better.


Gotcha! Thanks!


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## Lilly (Jun 13, 2006)

that's real cool looking in that light good work.


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## Dr Morbius (Sep 21, 2004)

Nice work, Z! Now you need an ARMY of those. Thats what I like about PVC static props..quick and effective...AND you can take em apart after Hallowen for storage. I'm going to use your hand idea for Wilfred.


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## kevin242 (Sep 30, 2005)

very cool, ZF, and on a shoestring budget. Gotta like that!


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## DeadSpider (Feb 3, 2006)

awesome job. It would have me wondering for sure if it was a real person. Proportions are excellent.


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## Smelly-Skelly (Sep 29, 2006)

Great prop, but now I added this to my "to do" list for this year. Thanks for one more thing to get done. Will it ever end?


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

That's what I said when seeing his prop and Don of the Dead's Zombie, and after I built a ScareFX-inspired grim reaper and PVC scarecrow. I just realized why Zombie-F titled this his "first static prop". Everything else he's done to date talks or moves! Actually this prop looks like it could move at any time. I think the realistic gloved hands add to it. I need to shorten the shoulders on my reaper whose costume is similar (and actually I have the same costume as Zombie-F I could use) even though I used the zombietronix calculator. If the shoulders are too square it looks like a prop. I think some haunters even put foam in a triangular shape to make the muscle from the neck to the shoulders. It helps using a robe so the legs and feet don't matter. That's why a zombie would be more difficult if you wanted shoes on him. And yeah I'd like to see photos of the Zombie-F hand construction if you can get to it. Thanks ScareFX for your versions. I had acutally seen them before and thought, man I don't have time to do that, BUT it works and I may have to do it since bending a coat hanger didn't LOL.


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## Zombie-F (Apr 12, 2004)

The trick with the zombietronix calculator is to cut the PVC to the lengths it specifies, assemble the pipe to the connectors and measure the total length with the connectors assmbled. Then, figure out the difference between what the calculator says it should be and what it measures (assembled) and re-cut the PVC by the difference between the two. Get what I'm saying? 

Essentially, the connectors are adding length to the measurements and you need to cut the PVC again to account for the added length.


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

I was wondering if that was the problem. I cut down my fog chiller ice tray PVC pipes after I realized they fit into the connectors by about 3/4" (can't recall exactly) but I marked it off, pulled the pipe out then measured the marks, and there was a lot more pipe that fits inot the connectors tightly than I would have guessed. I'll have to adjust my prop accordingly as I thought. Thanks for mentioning it. 

And I'm following your hands construction after I re-read it and looked at ScareFX's links. I'm going to try it with the Bic pens and coat hanger into a PVC end cap and duct tape for starters. I can get a cheap bag of rags in the auto section at Walmart.

I was also looking at pipe insulators (that look like BMX bike handlebar pads) but they look a little thin to bulk up PVC enough. Maybe rags or newspaper wrapped around that would add bulk to the arms. Your arms look fine in that photo. I think those swimming pool foam noddle toys are thicker but it's out of season in Ohio unless Toys 'R Us still has some.


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## Zombie-F (Apr 12, 2004)

For the arms, I wound up wrapping some bubble wrap around them to bulk them up. You can't tell in the dark photo I posted yesterday, but it is VERY apparent that there was only a thin pipe under those sleeves.


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## heresjohnny (Feb 15, 2006)

It's good to know that calculator works Zombie, thanks. The prop looks cool!


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

Bubble wrap padding is a good idea since it's uniform thickness. I have some handy. And if you hit him in the arm he'll POP!


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## Smelly-Skelly (Sep 29, 2006)

What about using pillow batting or something similar from the fabric area of your local store?


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## Zombie-F (Apr 12, 2004)

Smelly-Skelly said:


> What about using pillow batting or something similar from the fabric area of your local store?


I don't even want to know what that would smell like after being rained on for a month.


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## Gloomy_Gus (Jul 11, 2006)

Last year I picked up two costume display frames from Spirit's 'Day after Halloween' sale. They use them to display the Creature Reacher costumes. I have a bunch of costumes that I cycle through each year. I wear one and I stuff the other ones (I was using towels wrapped around wooden dowels). The TOT's are never sure which one is real. 

As for the pillow batting...we made a spider's victim last year by wrapping a dummy in batting and then wrapping the batting in webbing. We did get some rain and I didn't notice a smell. You could always spray it with scotch-guard.


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## Smelly-Skelly (Sep 29, 2006)

Great information everyone, I just love this place. I understand the simple concept of using PVC for the frame work, but I have one question for the arms.

Is using coathanger wire stiff enough to hold the arms in position along with a sword, staff, etc?? Seems with the articulated joints made out of coathangers they would not have enough "stiffness" to stay in place and would sag. Am I wrong on this?


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

I also wondered about that, if it stays in place in it's pose. I went the easy but admittedly more mechanical-looking route of the 90 and 45 degree PVC bends.

Another question, the Emperor of Evil costume comes with a half mask. What did you do for the bottom half of the exposed face?


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## Zombie-F (Apr 12, 2004)

I painted a wig head with flat black latex exterior paint and put the mask on that. The "neck stump" of the PVC dummy pushes up into the hole in the bottom of the wig head perfectly, giving the dummy a head to work with.


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## Zombie-F (Apr 12, 2004)

Smelly-Skelly said:


> Great information everyone, I just love this place. I understand the simple concept of using PVC for the frame work, but I have one question for the arms.
> 
> Is using coathanger wire stiff enough to hold the arms in position along with a sword, staff, etc?? Seems with the articulated joints made out of coathangers they would not have enough "stiffness" to stay in place and would sag. Am I wrong on this?


the only thing made out of wire is the hands. The arms themselves are PVC pipe. To get the arms to hold a pose, I had to drill a hole through the 45 degree connectors and us a screw to pin it in place.

The hands, I need to find a better way to secure them to the ends of the "arms" as when it rained last night, the left hand fell out of its socket.


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## Smelly-Skelly (Sep 29, 2006)

The hands, I need to find a better way to secure them to the ends of the "arms" as when it rained last night, the left hand fell out of its socket.[/QUOTE]

LMOA That is the funniest thing I have read in a while. Gave me a great visual in my mind.

How about this for a poseable connection. Use the typical 45 connection with end cap like Zombie-F describes but instead of coat hanger wire conecting shoulder to forearm or a screw, I purchased some threaded rod (threaded the entire length) in 1/4 size.

Here is what I am thinking, cut a length of threaded rod (3-6 inches) and use 1/4 nuts, one on the inside of the end cap at the shoulder and one on the outside, and tighten. Do the same for the forearm leaving the length of threaded rod between the two pvc pieces.

The 1/4 in a short length will be stiff enough to hold weight, but you should be able to bend it with pliers.

What do you think? Maybe I need to take a picture for a good visual.


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

Yes, a picture would help! 

I'm going to make one of these to go on the opposite side of my yard haunt entrance of my reaper since I have the Emperor of Evil costume from last year and it looks cool. I have to find a good weapon for him to hold. I like the way Zombie-F made hands and arms down instead of up. It's creepier that way. My Mom got freaked out by my reaper and he didn't even have his arms. I think these things almost look more real if their arms are down and not an exaggerated pose anyhow.


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## Zombie-F (Apr 12, 2004)

Yeah, I'm not getting a good visual. The connection between shoulder and forearm is made with 45 degree couplers... not wire. How would the threaded rod attach to the hand? I really don't follow what you're doing. I get how you're attaching the threaded rod through an end cap by using nuts, but not how you attach the hand to it.


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

My reaper also has the styrofoam wig head with a hole in the bottom. I fit a 3/4" PVC pipe that I had on hand intoit, and that sets in the 4-way 1" dia PVC that connects the neck, shoulders & spine. It stays in well, but also can freely move from side-to-side. I'm half tempted to take two fishing lines and attach them somehow to the head and the other ends to a piece of board, to hold onto it and from a distance so I could move the head from side-to-side (with a simple twist of my wrist) as T-o-T's walk by.

For the hands then, I'm currently trying ScareFX's 1/4" PVC (Home Depot had fancy 1/2" I don't know what it's called it's ivory colored CPVC that's the thickness of a finger). I have pipe cleaners (the arts & crafts name for it is Chenille) but those are a little too thin. I also have rebar Tie Wire I think it's 13 gague that I may try instead of cutting coat hangers. I plan on drilling holes in the 1" PVC end caps that fit over the ends of the forearms and wrap the wrists with black duct tape. I could also just drill the holes for the wires in the top of the 1" PVC at the end of the forearm and forego the PVC end caps like others have done but it looks as though the PVC end caps are easier to work with.

I think the 45 degree connectors Zombie-F used look fine. I used a 90 degree off the shoulder to the upper arm and then a 45 at the elbow on my repaer's arm that is lower. I use the exact opposite set-up on his arm that's lifted up higher (45 degrees at the shoulder and 90 degrees at the elbow). I hadn't tried two 45's on the same arm at the shoulder and the elbow, but now I will. Zombie-F's prop looks more natural, and that tells me you don't even need the flexible joints, at least for the way the Emperor of Evil is holding his weapon.


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## Smelly-Skelly (Sep 29, 2006)

Fright Zone and Zombie-F

I figured a visual might be better. I will see if I can get something today or tomorrow. I was brainstorming a way to have some flexibility at the joints as you mentioned the "coat hanger" wire would not hold the joints stiff in position (between end caps at shoulder, upper arm and forearm).

OK I will attempt to post a pic of the rod I am talking about. My thought was to drill a hole in the end cap at the shoulder and another hole in the end cap for the upper arm for the rod to fit through (1/4 inch). Cut a piece of threaded rod (maybe 4 inches). This will fit into the end caps, connecting the shoulder to the upper arm. Secure the rod to the shoulder end cap with one nut on either side of the cap and the same for the forearm.

If you are using pool noodles, a little gap between the two shouldn't matter since you can cover it with the noodle. The rod should be easy enough to bend in an angle you could not get with a hard 45 or 90 connection. Can do the same with the upper arm and forearm for a little flexibility.

As for wire, I found 14 and 16 gauge wire at Home Depot last night in 100 ft rolls for about $6 a roll. Thick but flexible enough to use for hands. Where do you find the 1/4 pvc??? I don't think I have seen this before. I was looking at small irrigation tubing (the type you use for setting up a soaker system) last night thinking it would be stiff enough in short pieces for hands similar to using bic pens.

As for the hand attachment, I guess just using the end cap like Fright Zone is talking about, with the premade hand on the end cap would work fine as you are using the fingers for the flexibility instead of the wrist.

Maybe I am just talking crazy talk and the brainstorm has short cirtuited my wiring a little today. Hope this all makes sense and gives a better visual with the stuff I was thinking about using. Then again maybe I am over engineering this set up.


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

I could picture the rod you posted, but I didn't think those things were bendable(?)

The PVC found at Home Depot for the fingers is ivory colored instead of bleach white. It's a little more expensive like $2 something for 10ft piece. For the life of me I can't remember what it's called. They actually measure it as 1/2' which is confusing because it's noticeably not as wide around as the regular 1/2" dia PVC. The receipt says "CPVC". The OD is 5/8 compared to a regular peice of 1/2" dia PVC which is 7/8 (or .840) OD. It's confusing but this stuff can actually fit inside the regular 1/2" dia PVC because the ID is actually .602. If I get a chance I'll go ask.

http://www.pvcplus.com/PVC schedule_40_&_80_pipe.htm

As an aside, we got 1/2" PVC for my graveyard fence spindles at Lowes. Well, we start cutting it and it's really thick. Turns out more than half of it was labelled "For Drinkling Water". So the OD is the same as regular 1/2" PVC, but the ID is much thicker. Which means I have to make different sized Zombie-F stryrene triangular finials. So point being, you got to be careful what they have on those shelves. dooh! But the PVC I'm using for the fingers is right next to the regular PVC at Home Depot. The thing is once you put four fingers and a thumb next to each other it really add up so that's why regular 1/2" wouldn't work as well (although a single piece looks reasoanable if you hold your finger to it).


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## Smelly-Skelly (Sep 29, 2006)

Fright Zone said:


> I could picture the rod you posted, but I didn't think those things were bendable(?)
> 
> I will stop by Home Depot on the way home. It so nice they open one only 5 minutes from the house. The next closed one is 20 minutes.
> 
> ...


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

I was at Home Depot and they said the PVC I bought for the fingers is in fact called "CPVC" I don't know what the 'C' stands for, but it's an alternative to copper tubing for plumbing which are both better alternatives to regular PVC which tends to break down over time if used with hot water. So anyway that's what the stuff is and the OD (outside diamter) is smaller than regular 1/2" so it should work well for fingers.


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

@ Zombie-F - You said you used 45 degree PVC connector joints (?) I haven't gotten my Emperor of Evil's arms hanging down at the nice, natural angles as yours. I'm currently trying to use a 45 connector from the shoulder, then a very short straight piece from that, into another 45 connector before the upper arm in order to try to get a gradual bend, is that how you were doing it?


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## Zombie-F (Apr 12, 2004)

Yes, yes it is.


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

@ Zombie-F - Interesting. So is this what yours looks like PHOTO LINK OF MY PVC PROP FRAME? (I actually flipped my photo to match your pose). I twisted the PVC in my 45's a bit. The photo's taken from a low angle, so the left arm looks higher than yours. I assume if you did this, you also cut the shoulder straight PVC's much shorter to accomodate the additional 45's coming off the shoulders. If so, where did you measure from, the outsides of the farthest 45's? Thanx.


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## Zombie-F (Apr 12, 2004)

Fright Zone said:


> @ Zombie-F - Interesting. So is this what yours looks like PHOTO LINK OF MY PVC PROP FRAME? (I actually flipped my photo to match your pose). I twisted the PVC in my 45's a bit. The photo's taken from a low angle, so the left arm looks higher than yours. I assume if you did this, you also cut the shoulder straight PVC's much shorter to accomodate the additional 45's coming off the shoulders. If so, where did you measure from, the outsides of the farthest 45's? Thanx.


Yes, that's my set up. When I cut the PVC for the shoulders, I used the Zombietronix calculator, which tells you the total shoulder width. SO, I cut the PVC to half that (since there's two halves) and assembled it. Then I measured the overall width from the outside of the farthest 45s and re-cut the PVC based on the difference between what zombietronix says the width should be and what I was actually measuring. Essentially, you want to cut a little more the PVC pipes since the connectors actually add some more width.


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

Great Thanx! I can proceed with confidence. I figured that might be the case, but wanted to double-check before I started cutting down the shoulders. 

I got the 1" dia PVC pipe from Home Depot and the joints from Lowes. The Lowes 45's don't pressure fit snugly. It was hard to even get it to hold that pose in the photo. HD's 45's fit tightly. I have to go get some. I don't feel like adding screws to hold all the PVC in place, pressure fitting worked well on my reaper.


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## PrettyGhoul (Oct 7, 2005)

*That came out amazing Zombie! He looks so real and intimidating; pretty brave of your wife to go check him out all alone like that (if it had been me I'd have been skeptical but still taken a flashlight and a phone).  If you switch him out with your brother on Halloween (that's going to be funny) I hope you place the dummy somewhere else. I think he's just to good not to be used on the big night.*


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## Zombie-F (Apr 12, 2004)

PrettyGhoul said:


> *That came out amazing Zombie! He looks so real and intimidating; pretty brave of your wife to go check him out all alone like that (if it had been me I'd have been skeptical but still taken a flashlight and a phone).  If you switch him out with your brother on Halloween (that's going to be funny) I hope you place the dummy somewhere else. I think he's just to good not to be used on the big night.*


Oh, I totally agree with that. I'll probably stand the dummy in the pathway to the Skeleton Comedy Club. Since the first one in the graveyard moved (my brother), then they'll be skeptical about the second one as well.


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## zombietronix (Sep 21, 2006)

Zombie-F said:


> Essentially, the connectors are adding length to the measurements and you need to cut the PVC again to account for the added length.


Ugh! I've been meaning to adjust that for a while now. Sorry about having to monkey with the output. My goal was to make the results of the calculator as "brainless" as possible. Still needs work! 

Thanks for the reminder, though! (And, as always, suggestions for improvement are always welcome!)

It is a great looking prop. With the fixed proportions it looks even more realistic!


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

It's still a helpful calculator. Thanx for putting it up. The Zombietronix name is a lot of fun. One thing I noticed though and maybe I'm wrong but the measurements you enter are for the total height of a skeleton but the zombietronix calculator doesn't meaure the 5 or so inches from the bottom of the feet to the ankle, although the meaurements seem to indicate the calculator still takes that into account so the appendages still meaure in the correct proportion as if it had feet (?)


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## zombietronix (Sep 21, 2006)

Thanks for the compliments. You're right, Fright. Bone "G" (tibia) is actually a measurement from the knee to the heel (floor!).

My approach might not be what everyone else is doing (and if so I'll adjust the calc) but I haven't ever built an ankle into my props because if they were standing I need the tibia for support. In the case of laying around, I just rotate the foot slightly with a makeshift wire support inserted into the PVC.

The one time I tried to build a lower leg WITH an ankle it quickly ended up in scrap because of stability problems!


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## Fright Zone (Sep 28, 2006)

I also added a basic black horror robe hooded cape to fill out the overall visual shape of the figure. I leave the hood down, but the cape acts like Darth Vader sort of where it gives the illusion of more of an imposing figure than is actually there on top of the robes that are already present. An el cheapo $9 at Walmart - it actually has a woman on the hangtag photo and they call it a "Full Length Hooded Cape, or like this popular one for twice the price shown HERE. I also tried putting my black Docker shoes underneath him. I'll have to try that when it's in the ground on not on a working Xmas tree stand. anything to sell the illusion he's real. I dont' think I'll get him completely realistic. I may even use the green or red glow stick idea behind his maks to make the eyes glow, in which case that may blow the whole "is it real or not" illusion, but may look cooler overall at night.


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