# Spark cage/ fences



## Dan The Welder (Jul 18, 2012)

I wanted to make a huge spark cage with galvanized fencing and steel posts, would this be conductive enough. I dont mind advice on those that you have built either


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## Lord Homicide (May 11, 2012)

Are you talking about stronger than sparks from a car battery or charger?


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## Dan The Welder (Jul 18, 2012)

I planned on using a car battery if thats what your asking


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## Zurgh (Dec 21, 2009)

I would strongly advise against the use of a battery, or worse, using both battery and charger together. I would recommend if you do this, to use only a charger, on a GFCI outlet that is also on a switch. Additionally, to keep this turned off at the outlet switch when not in use and/or left alone...

Links on this subject...

Nightmare on Elm Street Spark Grid

 sparks in haunt???


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## Dan The Welder (Jul 18, 2012)

Thanks for the words of wisdom


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## corey872 (Jan 10, 2010)

If you can find a plain steel fence, that would be the ideal way to go. The galvanizing is not the end of the world, but not the best thing to breathe as the sparks vaporize the zinc. In high concentrations, zinc oxide can lead to 'fume fever'.

As far as power source, some say just a car battery charger, some say a welder, some say a charger hooked to a battery, etc. There is some concern that constant shorting may damage a battery - or in an instance where the leads happen to short directly together, the battery may explode or at least spit/boil acid. I'd tend to lean toward a welder or something similar. Sure the chances of exploding a battery may be 1 in a million, but considering how many spark fences may be in use and how many times an arc is struck - a battery is bound to explode sometime - so better safe than sorry.

As far as sparks, you may experiment with different metals dragging across the fence...there is the typical iron and steel, but things like aluminum, magnesium, titanium, etc might give brighter / whiter sparks if that is what you're after.

If you happen to have a DC power source, the positive electrode tends to be the most sparked / eroded, so you may use that to what ever advantage/use you need.

PS - I also see the (faster typing) recommendations above - though I don't know there is any huge benefit to a GFCI. A GFCI doesn't work across a transformer, so it would not 'save' you from any shock on the output side. Though if someone did come in contact with the primary side of the transformer / extension cord, there may be some benefit.


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## Dan The Welder (Jul 18, 2012)

Well im aware of the dangers of galvanized, they tought us in welding. Its the only thing i have atm so ill take the fall for my haunt if i must


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## BioHazardCustoms (Aug 5, 2009)

If you have an arc welder or stick welder as some people call them, those make GREAT sparks. I don't know about the galvanized fencing and stuff, but I have used a portable welder to great effect on a spark fence.


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## Dan The Welder (Jul 18, 2012)

The sparks from a welder will cause partial blindness though


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## BioHazardCustoms (Aug 5, 2009)

Good point. please disregard my previous statement.


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## Dan The Welder (Jul 18, 2012)

We all make mistakes, it makes us human. Dont worry


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## Haunted Spider (Sep 6, 2010)

I know all you have at the moment is galvanized fence but I think you will be disappointed in the results. You get the sparks from jumping across the fence sections to another one and making the arc. If you are going between fencing (galvanized), the spacing is too large and you will not get the sparks you orginally wanted. I have used 1 inch wire mesh fencing but the best is a sheet of stretched steel. It just works, gives sparks constantly, and has the best effect. Just my 2 cents on materials. 

The arguement is there to not use a battery and for safety reasons it makes sense. That said, a Haunt I worked at uses a battery and has used the same one for the past 6 years running, sometimes with a charger hooked up when the battery is low. They have never had an issue, although I know they could. Most batteries now are pretty well sealed up and won't cause the issues of older batteries. But being a safety manager and up on all my OSHA stuff, sparks and batteries in general are a bad bad thing.

In my display, I now use a battery charger hooked to a GFCI on an extension cord. Between the charger and the cord, I use a kill switch. It is one of the oulets on a remote that turns it on and off for Christmas lights. Bought it last two years ago before Halloween from Home depot. It turns the power on and off from a button in my pocket so when I am done playing with sparks, if someone comes up, the grate is not live. 


Your biggest thing to help your effect no matter how you use it is darkness, total darkness. If the cage is in the open with light around the effect is dwindled to a few sparks and not the effect you are looking for.


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## TheOneAndOnlyKelly (May 7, 2009)

If you have access to a welder and some steel rod, you can make your own grid so that you don't have to deal with the galvanized at all. Just replace part of your fence with you own section.

Also, you might see about grounding yourself so if the spark leaps to you, you don't get burned or worse.


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## Dan The Welder (Jul 18, 2012)

I think ill ask my uncle if he has any left over chicken wire


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## Zurgh (Dec 21, 2009)

Spiderclimber, you're doing the spark grid the right & safe way.

I have seen transformers fail, and continue to produce line power to the load side. (In other words 120v ac into a dc transformer, 120v ac out...) While rare, it has occurred, hence the recommendation for use of a GFCI... it is also easier to reset a GFCI that is near by, than to go off to the electrical panel to reset a breaker, that may also shut down a circuit that is powering part of your haunt. Putting the GFCI on a switch, means you can kill the line power without unplugging the charger... so you could take a break & not leave it connected to line power...

A problem with the car battery + charger set up is that charging a car battery produces hydrogen gas as a byproduct... 
*should* someone think that it would be OK to set this up in a poorly ventilated area (like inside), let the battery charge for a long while, then use it... boom.

Explosions are not likely to happen outdoors, but gas buildup in a car battery with it's caps on can pop the caps off and splash acid about...

They tend to put warning labels on things for a reason...

















...and DO NOT 'Ground' yourself... Insulate, yes, by wrapping the handle (if conductive and the connection) in (preferably) 2-3 overlapping wraps of 10 mill electrical tape, or lots of regular electrical tape (not duct tape), use in a dry environment, and wear a sturdy pair of rubber soled shoes, or boots. Not really sure how helpful a pair of welders gloves would protect you vs a shock, as they are meant to protect from burns... not to mention, common safety gloves are not designed to protect from electric shock... Safety glasses probably wouldn't be a bad idea, either... there are probably other issues I have failed to address, so check out the links provided earlier...

If you think that I hate this effect, you would be wrong. When done well, the spark grid is awesome.
If I seem come off like a jerk/know-it-all about this, or seem to be way overly cautious... I'm just an electrician, who thinks it is better to be safe than sorry.


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## Dan The Welder (Jul 18, 2012)

I think youre cautious. It never hurts to be that way, my haunt will be outside though


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## Haunted Spider (Sep 6, 2010)

nah, not a jerk at all. Like I said. I have done it both ways. The Haunt I worked for still does it with the battery and charger. (I stopped by last weekend for a tour as I hadn't been there in a year and it was the same). 

The charger will definitely give you the sparks you need. I used to prefer when the charger was on at the haunt as the sparks were much more impressive. 

I think the chicken wire will drive you nuts. The sparks come about because the steel is burning. Chicken wire will tear through in no time flat. The 1 inch square wire tore through pretty quick and that is 3 times as thick as chicken wire. The stretched steel really is the way to go but for one night, the wire might hold up. 

For a spark rod, a screw driver works, but better yet is a smooth metal rod, securely attached to your cable and insulated. Do not use threaded rod or rebar as it will get stuck on the wire and basically weld itself to it. Good luck on it.


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## Dan The Welder (Jul 18, 2012)

I cut a machete from sheet metal today with a bolt welded to the end to attach the jumper cable to, ill put pics up in the showroom tonight. I set up my fence posts and i used untreated fencing, it isnt galvanized. I have a plywood pedestal for my battery to stay off the ground. I myself like using a battery, its always worked before and its fairly safe.


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## Haunted Spider (Sep 6, 2010)

You will find that over time, the connection between the machete bolt and the line in will get tarnished, or whatever it is and make a week connection. To keep the sparks flowing, clean up the bolt connections every half hour or so, by twisting your connection. This will keep the sparks flowing much longer.


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## Lord Homicide (May 11, 2012)

_I guess this doesn't count as high jacking a thread and if it does I'm sorry._

Speaking of sparks, how do you get air arc style sparks from something safer and more practical than an arc welder?


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## Dan The Welder (Jul 18, 2012)

As in like jacobs ladder sparks


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## Lord Homicide (May 11, 2012)

Like this http://www.visualphotos.com/image/1x6617937/welder_welding_farm_equipment_with_sparks_and_fire


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## Dan The Welder (Jul 18, 2012)

I'm stuck on that


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## Haunted Spider (Sep 6, 2010)

In Working with a metal shop, that looks more like torch sparks from cutting through steel than an arc welder. So to get your desired effect, get an acetelene torch and cut through plate steel. Not exactly safer than the arc welder though.


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## Dan The Welder (Jul 18, 2012)

In welding we had an acetelene torch and the sparks from it are much more likely to start a fire than mig, stick or tig sparks. They are a huge explosive danger and caution must be taken operating and storing. Leaking hoses or gaskets will cause an explosion. I think a normal 2200 psi tank of acetelene is equal to 40 sticks of dynamite. Be safe


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