# Mask painting



## Sblanck (Sep 13, 2007)

Howdy

I have an old mask that I would like to repaint with different colors.
I can find lots of information on how to paint a new latex mask.
I cannot seem to find clear instructions on how to paint an existing mask that was purchased from a magic shop. Typical rubber mask by Be Something Studios.


Thanks


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## fontgeek (Jul 24, 2006)

Is the old paint coming off of the mask now, or do you just want something different?
That mask is probably made of latex too, so, once you've gotten it to shed all of it's old paint (presuming you can do that without damaging the mask) give the mask a good cleaning with a mild soap and water, then wipe it down with rubbing alcohol (to remove any remaining body oils) then go ahead and paint it. Try to avoid thick layers of paint. Thick layers are not as flexible as the thinner/finer layers, and more often than not, you have better control with the thin layer(s) anyway.
Keep us posted, and take some photos of the process. I'm sure it will help others facing the same kind of problems too.


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## Copchick (Apr 10, 2012)

^ Good to know, I will be doing this on my animatronic witch to change the coloring of her face. Would you recommend using a sealer of some sort?


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## Sblanck (Sep 13, 2007)

I finally found some more information by changing the wording in my searches.

http://www.therpf.com/f62/basecoating-pre-painted-latex-mask-repainting-questions-188960/


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## fontgeek (Jul 24, 2006)

Copchick said:


> ^ Good to know, I will be doing this on my animatronic witch to change the coloring of her face. Would you recommend using a sealer of some sort?


It depends on a couple of things, first, is the sealer compatible with the paint you will be using, is it compatible with the mask itself, will it be an issue if it makes your mask shinier, what kind of protection will it really give your paint job?
Ideally, you should try using your paint and the sealer on a separate surface, if there are no issues there, then maybe try a little on a small section inside the mask or somewhere where it won't be an issue if it doesn't work. This lets you see if there is a compatibility issue, a color issue, and how (if at all) glossy the sealant might make your paint job. Like makeup, different brands or types of paint don't always play well together. I'd also work out a full color scheme/plan before you ever apply any paint to the mask. Save yourself the headaches, heartaches, and frustration,not to mention money, by getting in plenty of practice applying the paint before hand.


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## Troll Wizard (May 3, 2012)

Okay, so when you say paint, what type of paints are you refering to fontgeek? Are you suggesting using latex paint because it's a latex mask? Or are you suggesting a different type of say art paint or acrylics? I hope that this is a good question, because I think there are a lot of us who have older mask that may want to do some upkeep.


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## fontgeek (Jul 24, 2006)

Actually, I didn't refer to any specific brand or type. As I stated earlier, you need to match your paint with your needs and existing materials (old paint, age and condition of the mask, etc.)
You can look around to find what you need, different manufacturers seem to offer different effects, and theories in painting.
You might look at Reynolds Advanced Materials site, or maybe hunt down lines that aim towards your specific needs or desires (Monster Makers, WC, etc.).
Follow the manufacturer's instructions and material guides. Don't go reducing/thinning the paint with materials other than what they recommend, and make sure that whatever you use is compatible with the existing paint, the latex mask itself, and other paints and sealers you may use.
I've seen a lot of ruined paint-jobs, not to mention brushes and airbrushes, by people who tried to use Windex, Formula 409, Fantastic, etc., to reduce the paint, only to find out that the paint-job will dry brittle, or that the mixture will eat away at the finish on their brush, the ferrel of their airbrush, and even the chrome and brass most airbrushes are made of. Your needs for a specific prop, mask, etc. will vary, and because of that it's hard to tell you a specific brand or line of paint without knowing all of the specifics for the job at hand and how you would be applying it..


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## BlackwhipsAngel (Sep 16, 2012)

I've tried painting already set latex (like store bought masks). Only to find that no matter how thin or thick you paint it the paints crack, even paints with latex in them. I've been told it takes a specialty paint like PAX to paint set latex rubber.

If you get something to work, without cracking, keep me posted - and others. I'd like to find a method that works without cracking and flaking.


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## fontgeek (Jul 24, 2006)

BlackwhipsAngel said:


> I've tried painting already set latex (like store bought masks). Only to find that no matter how thin or thick you paint it the paints crack, even paints with latex in them. I've been told it takes a specialty paint like PAX to paint set latex rubber.
> 
> If you get something to work, without cracking, keep me posted - and others. I'd like to find a method that works without cracking and flaking.


Like any other painting project, preparation can make a big difference. Also what/how you apply the paint will come into play too. Airbrushing is popular because it allows you to get spectacular coverage and effects without having to use a ton of paint (thick layers like those from a conventional brush). Paints like Etac Private Stock work well, but again, you need to start with a clean substrate (in this case the mask) that's free of oils, soap residue, loose or flaking paint, etc. Painting on contaminated surfaces only allows your paint to adhere to attach it self to the contamination.
Try wearing rubber, nitrile or latex gloves when handling, washing, drying, and painting the mask. It lets your hands stay clean and also helps prevent contamination of the mask. Put the gloves on first, then wash your gloved hands with a mild dish soap. This will remove any oils or residue that may be on the glove exteriors, then do the washing and mild brushing of the mask. Wipe it, the mask, down with alcohol to help remove any remaining water, oils, or soap residue, then get to the painting itself. As you've already noted, the thick or brittle paints will crack if the mask is flexed or bent. Different paints can offer different benefits (and problems) so do some homework for overall compatibility before you go out and by paints. If you airbrush, or considering airbrushing, keep in mind that your airbrush allows you to basically sketch in like you would shade with a pencil when drawing/sketching. Lots of great effects can be achieved with very little paint, and because the layers end up being so thin, they tend to be able to take the flexing and bending that most latex masks have to endure. No paint is bullet proof, so keep in mind that if your mask is going to be exposed to a lot of abrasion/rubbing/handling, that you can't expect the paint to hold up forever. Because the airbrush allows you to apply such light layers, and to easily feather in shading, it allows you to do touchup jobs without having to do everything all over again. Just wear your gloves, wash the mask, and add paint where needed.


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