# Looking for a better way to trig. props



## Indyandy (Sep 7, 2005)

I have been using PIR sensors from security lights that I have hacked. Last year they just didn't work very reliably. What are some other alternatives that you use? I am looking for something that wont cost alot. I need maybe 12 of them. Some trigger props and others trigger lights.


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## hedg12 (Jul 6, 2008)

The I.R. break beam the Garage of Evil guys talked about here looks promising.

Otaku has had good luck with an inexpensive pir sensor from Radio Shack. He used one on his entry for this years $20 prop challenge. He uses a tube as a guide to narrow the effective area & reduce false triggers.

A few people have had luck hacking a Harbor Freight pressure mat to act as a trigger, too.


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## Otaku (Dec 3, 2004)

Yeah, that Pumpkin Insert PIR works very well. I haven't seen any false triggers at all while testing it. The tube on the sensor is essential to getting a PIR to ignore peripheral heat sources and focusing the active area. The R-S part number is 6300282 - you'll need to call the stores in your area to find out who has them.


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## papabear (Nov 30, 2009)

haunt productions had a nice timer/sensor but i can't seem to find them anymore. They were out of Virginia. The device had several functions from delay to the amount of time the prop activated.


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## kprimm (Mar 14, 2009)

Check out 
www.hauntmasterproducts.com


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## papabear (Nov 30, 2009)

I'm sorry about the mis-post. It is haunt master Productions. I found my old paperwork. However, I am having trouble getting Jim to return my calls and correspondence on a warranty. The Combo flex units are great though.


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## HAUNTEDBARN (Apr 20, 2010)

PIR works well you my just need to add tape to the eye to control the area that it triggers with ...give it a try see what you think?


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## Spooky1 (Aug 25, 2008)

I used remotes to trigger a couple props last year. That way I could trigger them right when I wanted too, or not trigger it for some really little kids.


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## corey872 (Jan 10, 2010)

HAUNTEDBARN said:


> PIR works well you my just need to add tape to the eye to control the area that it triggers with ...give it a try see what you think?


True. This also brings up a good point...what was it about the sensors that did not work? If they triggered falsely or too often, the tape trick works good to narrow down the field of view. If they failed to trip, it might help to place them so the 'traffic' pattern is across the sensor - which triggers multiple sectors - as opposed to directly approaching or receding which may not cause it to trip at all.


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## Otaku (Dec 3, 2004)

Corey's right about the traffic pattern. The Fresnel lens focuses the heat source to a small dot that ideally should move across the sensor located inside the lens. They're supposed to ignore stationary heat sources. If that dot doesn't move across the sensor, you'll get erratic triggering or none at all. If your PIR unit uses a large curved lens, you can usually replace it with a dome lens and then use a tube to restrict the field of view. Just removing the lens won't work - the sensor needs to "see" the focused IR wavelength.


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## Creep Cringle (Jun 23, 2009)

I used the remote outlets for most of my props last year. I plan on adding more this year. The setup I had had 3 outlets on 1 remote. Since I lead the group as a guide it worked really well as I was able to trigger props when it was more effective for the group not just because 1 person tripped a sensor.


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## Indyandy (Sep 7, 2005)

I did use a remote trigger on some pneumatic props and on my shiatzu zombies. I really liked how I could control them. But, on other things like some spot lights that shine on props, some times they would work, other times they wouldn't. Sometimes they came on when nobody was in there. I have tried using tape to reduce the viewing angle to no avail. Maybe it is just the cheap sensors that I am using. I like using the security lights because I can plug the lights into the bulb sockets with an adaptor. It would be hard to use a remote where the lights are. Plus I would need quite a few of them. Most of the walls in my haunt are plastic (saving up for wood walls). I am sure the wind blowing the plastic also sets them off. I am thinking of some type of break beam would work best for now with a timer. Or another break beam to shut off the light. Can you recomend any good ones?


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