# Metal to Plastic Glue Help Needed



## Doc Doom (Aug 28, 2008)

I've tried unsuccessfully twice now to attach Drew Buriedmore's head to the motor shaft.The shaft is a 1/4" threaded rod. About a 1" length at the tip fits into an approximate 5/16" diameter plastic tube from a ball point pen. I first tried Liquid Nails but it didn't hold. I then tried hot melt glue and it didn't hold either. I thin part of the problem is getting enough glue into the tube. I need to use a plastic drinking straw as an extender nozzle for the glue. The hot melt glue seemed to stick to the rod but also appeared to partially melt the plastic tube. 


Can anybody suggest a good metal to plastic glue? I need to have some working time so a quick setting epoxy may be problemattic.


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## Otaku (Dec 3, 2004)

How much working time do you actually need? A good adhesive for this would be a 5-minute epoxy.


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## Doc Doom (Aug 28, 2008)

Otaku said:


> How much working time do you actually need? A good adhesive for this would be a 5-minute epoxy.


I see two problems with a 5 min epoxy. The first is getting the epoxy down inside the head (through the neck opening) and into the tube, which is glued to the inside top of the head. I really need either a squeezable tube or something I can pour into a 5/15" hole.

The second is I'm kinda flying blind when I stick the shaft into the tube because just as the shaft enters the tube, the neck fills the neck opening in the head and I can't see inside the head anymore. Even if I miss he first couple of times, I SHOULD be able to get it right in five minutes. Problem is, if I don't and the epoxy hardens, I'm screwed.


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## The_Caretaker (Mar 6, 2007)

Picture would help, also if you are trying to glue a threaded rod into the neck it might be easier to glue a nut into the hole and then thread the rod into it.


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## The_Caretaker (Mar 6, 2007)

Also here is a site to help determine what glue to use: http://www.thistothat.com/


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## Doc Doom (Aug 28, 2008)

The_Caretaker said:


> Picture would help, also if you are trying to glue a threaded rod into the neck it might be easier to glue a nut into the hole and then thread the rod into it.


Here ya go.
I have to find a way to get the glue down inside the head into HOLE "B" so I can connect the power wires for the eyes and then insert SHAFT "A" into HOLE "B". I can't install a nut and thread the rod into it because the wires would get all twisted.


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## hedg12 (Jul 6, 2008)

I would think that epoxy would be thick enough that you could just put a blob of it on the end of the shaft & then assemble it. If not, you could try an epoxy putty.


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## fritz42_male (May 5, 2009)

Perhaps friendly plastic/shapelock/polymorph could be the answer. Melt a small amount, put a blob on the shaft, force it in to place and then leave it set. Friction should hold everything together but you could still pull or unscrew the shaft if you needed to.
the


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## Dark Lord (Jul 25, 2007)

Doc Doom said:


> I really need either a squeezable tube or something I can pour into a 5/15" hole.


I use epoxy on boat repairs & sometimes have to get into small areas.Marine supply shops have plastic dispensing syringes that you can clip off the tip as small as you need to inject the epoxy in small spots/pinholes. They come in a bag of 2 or 12,i get mine from West Marine store;
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...001&storeId=11151&partNumber=318311&langId=-1
Just run some acetone thru it & clean off the rubber plunger & they good for a few more uses !!


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## corey872 (Jan 10, 2010)

The problem is, some plastics glue easily - like polystyrene models or PVC pipe, some are nearly impossible like polyethylene, polypropylene and tetrafluoroethylene (teflon). Further, polyethylene and polypropylene are often used for simple blow molded and rotary molded parts - like monster heads . The last thing complicating the issue is the 'best geometry for gluing plastic is large, flat, closely fitting surfaces like the flanges on a PVC pipe - not a 1/4" rod in a hole.

So what to do...is there any possibility of drilling/melting a hole in the top of the head... put a nut, then washer on the shaft, then the head, then another washer and finally another nut? Tighten the nut and hide under hair or some other cosmetic cover? Or put a nut, fender washer and another nut on the shaft and tighten to make a flange. (drill 6-8 holes in the washer before hand) Then put a large blob of hot glue in the head and on the flange and stick the two together. A large fender washer would be 1inch or more in diameter which would give a large surface for adhesion and the additional drilled holes would allow the hot glue to 'key in' to the metal for extra security.


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## The Watcher (Sep 13, 2008)

Doc I just give you a suggestion about this on the other thread. But It is ok, I learned long ago I wasn't the brightest tool in the box. So I will try again. I was wondering if you can lift the back of her hair. Then you could cut a hole to give you better access to your work. Then just let the fall back over it and hide the hole.


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## fritz42_male (May 5, 2009)

Or even decorate the hole with gore?


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## Doc Doom (Aug 28, 2008)

My thanks to all who have offered help. I thought about cutting a hole in the top of the head when I was first thinking how to go about this prop. Sure would make it easier. The problem with that is that I like the Cindy Brady look Mrs. Doom did when she braided the hair and it leaves no hair (at all) in the back of th ehead and not too much where th ehole would have to go. I could cover it with something (hat, oozing brains being eaten by a crow, etc) but am saving that as a last resort. Gonna give JB Weld a try this weekend.


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