# Order of Painting



## matrixmom (Aug 20, 2011)

After alot of trial and error, its putting down the darkest color first then going all the way to lightest. The lightest would just be dry brushed or highlights. Make everything super shiny and slimy: spar varnish. Easier to spray paint great stuff than regular latex paint. Hard to get all those nooks and crannies. 

These are some pieces I finished today for my fallout theme. Toxic slimy sewer pipes and making the pumpkin a little "burned" and toxic. The will be highlighted with green light and possible fog on the pipes. (doin my fav thing on moms day!)

I think my pumpkin needs something....not sure what. Tell me what you guys think.


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## kprimm (Mar 14, 2009)

Maybe and ink or wash to get into the deep grooves.


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## Bascombe (May 18, 2010)

my recipe for painting is:

1. Prime
2. Base coat
3. Texture or work-up
4. Detail
5. Seal


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## Pumpkin5 (Aug 8, 2010)

:jol:That looks awesome! The sludge you have down, it looks positively toxic! How about a little sludge coming out of the pumpkin's orifices? Just a thought...might make him look a little less "pumpkin happy".


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## matrixmom (Aug 20, 2011)

Bascombe said:


> my recipe for painting is:
> 
> 1. Prime
> 2. Base coat
> ...


So perfectly said. I usually just prime though if I want it to be sealed from elements, or I want it to last season after season.

Something I have been using lately to texture: sand!! Some of it clumps up in spots and other areas not. And I dont have to wait for it to dry alot unlike joint compound.


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## matrixmom (Aug 20, 2011)

Pumpkin5 said:


> :jol:That looks awesome! The sludge you have down, it looks positively toxic! How about a little sludge coming out of the pumpkin's orifices? Just a thought...might make him look a little less "pumpkin happy".


Perfect! Off I go to buy more great stuff. Actually, I think I have some joint compound lying around... Thanks for the idea...

I was thinking of sitting him in sludge too.


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## BioHazardCustoms (Aug 5, 2009)

I have an odd order for paint.
1. Base coat (usually black)
2. Monster Mud (generally dry brushed onto the prop.)
3. Detail paint (Airbrushed)
4. Tea-staining in a multitude of colors.

When I make monster mud, I generally use exterior latex paint, as it adds an extra layer of water proofing. I airbrush with acrylics, because when they dry, the paint becomes a type of plastic. Tea-staining uses acrylics as well. 

I generally like to make my tombstones look old and decrepit, so I prefer for them to have a dull finish. I've tried matte varnish on the outside, but it still looks too shiny for my tastes, so I don't use it anymore.


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## matrixmom (Aug 20, 2011)

Yes... I definitely dont use spar varnish on everything, but this year since I have so much toxic sludge lying around (fallout theme) I have been varnishing alot...its the best super shine I have worked with. Plus on my rusty pipes, it has a brownish tinge to it too - adding another layer of disgust because of the color.


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## kevin242 (Sep 30, 2005)

I don't usually bother with sealing any of my props unless it's MM. Depending on the material, the finish will last at least a few seasons. Blow molds seem to dislike being painted, I think it's because of the mold release agent used in casting, they are also prone to becoming brittle and cracking after a while. I generally do just an exterior latex base coat, spray the recesses with black, dry brush the highlights and then do washes with acrylics/spray paints and a spray bottle filled with warm water. After 10+ years most of my props look just as good or better than they did when they were new. I am a big fan of the brown spray primer sold in home stores for making realistic rust.


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## Lizzyborden (Sep 7, 2012)

I have the spar varnish but never got around to sealing last year's pumpkins yet. I read somewhere (perhaps here) about someone using a matte spray over the spar to cut the gloss. Has anyone tried this? If so how did it work?

I'm thinking that a matte spray would work better than a matte sealer in a can, simply because you can control the amount of spray. 

I've also read that some use spar varnish before painting and then again after. I guess that would be the ultimate in protection.

Here's how I've done it so far

1. basecoat (bought a gallon of flat black paint)
2. drybrushing starting with the darkest colors
3. drybrushing to add highlights and detail
4 sealing (which I've yet to do)


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