# flying crank ghost



## dead end (Jul 1, 2009)

well like the title says. im thinking about tying to make one.
what would i nead to do this?
im new to makeing my own props.


----------



## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

The first thing I'd recommend is reading websites for examples. You can go all out and build with aluminum. Or go cheaper using wood.

This site has a very good tutorial....
http://www.kickthefog.com/crank_ghost.htm

And of course..the original....

http://www.phantasmechanics.com/

For a motor, I'd recommend monsterguts.com. I used a motor from them....works great.


----------



## dead end (Jul 1, 2009)

thank you very helpful


----------



## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

It's pretty easy to make one out of wood. But you have to watch the amount of weight. Lighter is better as long as its sturdy.










I definitely recommend buying a motor meant for an FCG, rather than a rotisserie motor. But the image above shows something we whipped together as a side project at a make n take.


----------



## HibLaGrande (Sep 25, 2005)

I went the aluminum frame and wiper motor route with a DC pulse motor controller. under $100 after was all said and done. It is still my favorite prop. It will take some tweaking to get the weighting and string length just right. I would recommend finding a motor with more low speed torque than a wiper motor.


----------



## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

I just made one for my secret reaper based on the instructions from kick the fog web site listed above. It used a disco ball motor. The wood came from depot and they are ballisters 1/1/4 x 1/1/4 by 36" (used for deck railings) and they cost 87cents each you need 3 of them. You also need eye bolts (7 of them) to join the wood together, a few bolts, washers and lock nuts, a fender washer, a 1 inch pulley, and some fishing swivels and string. You can also use clear shower curtain rings to simulate wrist opening for you ghost with invisible arms. Here is a video of the the rig I made and the other video is tha same rig with a ghost on it. The eyes are just yellow phosphorescent cardboard from the drug store with thumb tack pupils.

Halloween Props 2 :: S6000616.flv video by jmalt31 - [email protected]@[email protected]@http://vidmg.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v147/jmalt31/Halloween%20Props%202/[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@v147/jmalt31/Halloween%20Props%202/S6000616

Halloween Props 2 :: S6000617.flv video by jmalt31 - [email protected]@[email protected]@http://vidmg.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v147/jmalt31/Halloween%20Props%202/[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@v147/jmalt31/Halloween%20Props%202/S6000617


----------



## kprimm (Mar 14, 2009)

My frame is made out of angle iron and welded together, it is very strong. I would also totally recommend monster guts for the motor. For the actual ghost i would check out www.kentuckyspecialfx.com

I have gotten one of thier ghosts and they are very nice and good prices also, unless of course you are making your own.


----------



## Scottzilla (Jun 13, 2007)

You could make a giant one:
http://www.modd3d.com/articles/?query=ghost&amount=0&blogid=1


----------



## Bone Dancer (Oct 7, 2005)

Very excellent job on the video Scott. Showing both nite and day shots as well as showing the guts of the prop. I wish more people would do it that way.


----------



## lowdwnrob (Jul 2, 2008)

Scottzilla said:


> You could make a giant one:
> http://www.modd3d.com/articles/?query=ghost&amount=0&blogid=1


How did you mount that on your roof? Im scared to screw or nail anything in fear of it leaking afterwards.


----------



## mickkell (Jan 16, 2009)

I bought one of those Kentucky ghosts.very nice people and easy to talk to.they were so nice they sent me a second ghost for free!I called them about getting a second one and they said they throw the names of their customers in a hat and BINGO,I got one.SWEET.


----------



## Scottzilla (Jun 13, 2007)

Thanks! It actually just sits up there (my landlord was worried I had poked holes in his new roof too). It ends up being like an upside-down "V" that sits on the point of the roof. It's really stable even though it may not look like it. If you follow the link there's a complete how-to.


----------



## dead end (Jul 1, 2009)

thank you one and all for the info
its sound like its going to be a fun build.
thank you agin


----------



## jaege (Aug 23, 2009)

DarkLore said:


> It's pretty easy to make one out of wood. But you have to watch the amount of weight. Lighter is better as long as its sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Great picture. This is all the "how to" I need.This may be a stupid question, but why does the tail end of the frame (the end opposite the head eyebolt) have to be so long? Is it a matter of balance? Will the ghost not work if I were to shorten that some?


----------



## Creeper (Nov 7, 2008)

DarkLore said:


> It's pretty easy to make one out of wood. But you have to watch the amount of weight. Lighter is better as long as its sturdy.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I posted how I still couldn't figure out the FCG, but then I saw a "similar thread" below that Lotus posted and had a picture:










I think I get it now!


----------



## Otaku (Dec 3, 2004)

Picture the movement one string at a time. Each of the three strings is attached to a rotating washer mounted at the end of the crank arm on the motor shaft. As the crank arm moves closer to one of the eyebolts (the string goes through the eyebolt) the object (hand or head) attached to the string will drop down. As the crank arm moves away, the object rises. So for the two hands, as one of them is at it's lowest point, the other will be at it's highest. The head will be somewhere in between that - when the hands are at equal heights, the head will either be at it's highest or lowest position, depending on the position of the crank arm. When the crank arm is pointed straight away from the head, it will be at it's highest location. If you can visualize the position of the crank arm while watching a video of a FCG, you'll see how it all works.


----------



## Creeper (Nov 7, 2008)

Thank You Otaku!


----------



## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

I have used a 5RPM mirror ball motor for the FCG and this motor is also 5 RPM and has a lot more torque:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009083113381055&item=5-1587&catname=electric

At that price how can you go wrong. It says 4 RMP at 12v - most 12 volt wall warts are 14 - 16 volts hence the 5RPM at 14 volts it is between 5 and 6 rpm perfect for a FCG. my next FCG will be using this motor.


----------



## jaege (Aug 23, 2009)

hpropman said:


> I have used a 5RPM mirror ball motor for the FCG and this motor is also 5 RPM and has a lot more torque:
> 
> https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009083113381055&item=5-1587&catname=electric
> 
> At that price how can you go wrong. It says 4 RMP at 12v - most 12 volt wall warts are 14 - 16 volts hence the 5RPM at 14 volts it is between 5 and 6 rpm perfect for a FCG. my next FCG will be using this motor.


 Have you used this motor for a FCG?


----------



## The Watcher (Sep 13, 2008)

I'm not going to post another how to you have some very good examples already. But I can tell you this if you have the free wood, you would be better served using it and the eye bolts. The pulleys and and metal frame is nice, but it is like take a porch hunting. The movement is a the same. This isn't a prop that is jerkin or stressed. It should be a light weight prop that has a slow flowing movement. So there isn't a lot of wear and tear on it. even if you run this 5 nights a year. Short of motor failure it will last a long time. I would spend the extra money on other props and keep the mechanics as simple as possible.


----------



## jaege (Aug 23, 2009)

Watcher,

Thats was sort of my thought on the matter, but having never made or seen one in person I wasnt sure. Besides I like to work with wood.:jol:


----------



## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

I agree with Watcher. I built mine out of aluminum...did everything beautifully. Once you build one, you realize..."dang, that was so easy I could have done it with scrap wood and gotten the same result" The only thing I'm picky about is the motor.



The Watcher said:


> I'm not going to post another how to you have some very good examples already. But I can tell you this if you have the free wood, you would be better served using it and the eye bolts. The pulleys and and metal frame is nice, but it is like take a porch hunting. The movement is a the same. This isn't a prop that is jerkin or stressed. It should be a light weight prop that has a slow flowing movement. So there isn't a lot of wear and tear on it. even if you run this 5 nights a year. Short of motor failure it will last a long time. I would spend the extra money on other props and keep the mechanics as simple as possible.


----------



## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

jaege said:


> Have you used this motor for a FCG?


Not yet. I have made two so far one with a wiper motor and a pulley reduction to get the proper speed and one with the mirrror ball motor that I gave to my secret reaper. The mirror ball motor needed to have some weight added to the wrist to counter balance the weight of the ghost. but it worked fine. This motor has a lot more torque so I do not see a problem. The Mirror ball motor I was able to stall with my fingers. I can not stop this motor it is pretty powerful. People have been using it for a while now for head movement, peeping props and the clamoring Cletus (see the $20 prop challenge)

http://www.hauntforum.com/showthread.php?t=15768

I now build my frame out of 1-1/4 banister stiles (.89 at depot) you will need 3 of them, the motor, 7 eye bolts, and 4 normal bolts to connect the frame together, washers and lock nuts. with the motor at 2.99 you should be able to build this for well under $20.

I post a picture and video of the one I made here on page 45:

http://www.hauntforum.com/showthread.php?t=15550&page=45


----------



## jaege (Aug 23, 2009)

Wow. Did you use a paint stiring stick in that rig? That motor makes the price of the FCG very low. Thanks for the info. Where do you get the cheese cloth for the ghost?


----------



## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

Yes I forgot the paint stirring stick (Free at the depot - I grab a few whenever I am in there) the large ones not the small ones you may have to ask for them. They are 1/4 thick and about 1 1/4" by about 18" the outer most hole is 12" then every inch I normally drill 3 or 4


----------



## jaege (Aug 23, 2009)

hpropman

How would I go about finding or making the appropriate connector to hook my walwart to this motor?


----------



## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

jaege said:


> hpropman
> 
> How would I go about finding or making the appropriate connector to hook my walwart to this motor?


The motor case half's come apart to reveal the motor and the gears. The metal pins that you see in the connector hole touch the motor lugs. they act like spring clips (like a battery box spring). Anyway, they pop right out and then you can solder wires directly to the motor solder lugs. the plastic may need to be files a tiny bit to pass the wire out the hole where the pins were. you can add a connector if you want or just solder your wall wart directly to the motor. I tied a small knot in the wire between the motor and the filed hole to act as a strain relief. If this is not clear let me know and I will go and take some pics.


----------



## MattCoon (Sep 7, 2009)

hpropman said:


> this motor is also 5 RPM and has a lot more torque:
> 
> https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009083113381055&item=5-1587&catname=electric


This motor looks good - do you know its torque rating? I didn't see it listed in the specs on the Surplus Center web site. Thanks!


----------



## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

No I do not know the torque rating but I know it will handle the FCG because the disco ball motor can handle it and I can stop it with my fingers and this motor I was unable to stop with my fingers. It is pretty powerful and although I have not yet made another FCG with one yet. I have seem plenty of projects with it that could not have been done with the disco ball motor.


----------



## jaege (Aug 23, 2009)

I will be using this motor to make my FCG this weekend, so I will let you know how it works out.


----------



## MattCoon (Sep 7, 2009)

Thanks for the info, hpropman! I just ordered a couple of these motors, and I will use one to make my first FCG. I'm really glad I didn't waste $50 on a motor!


----------



## Doc Doom (Aug 28, 2008)

I bought three of them last year. For the price, the're great motors. Should be fine for FCG as long as you keep it light or use a counter weight. I used one on my hitchiking ghosts and although it works, it struggles.
Doc


----------



## jaege (Aug 23, 2009)

hpropman,

So you know, I did use that motor you had the link to. Just finished my FCG tonight and had it running. The motor worked great. I didnt take pics, but I will tomorrow and post them. So your theory was correct.


----------



## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

That's great I am looking forward to the pictures!


----------



## jaege (Aug 23, 2009)

Here's the pics. The last one shows a close up of the motor

http://www.hauntforum.com/album.php?albumid=376&pictureid=4838

http://www.hauntforum.com/album.php?albumid=376&pictureid=4837

http://www.hauntforum.com/album.php?albumid=376&pictureid=4839

You can see how cheap I went with the frame. She looks really good under black light, like all of them do.


----------



## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

Hey Jaege do you get the same ghost movement with the motor behind the the head eyelet as opposed to between the three of them?


----------



## jaege (Aug 23, 2009)

It generally looks the same, from what I can tell by watching other peoples video. I may have to move it to see for certain. I already planned to shorten the aluminum bar as the ghost rises and falls more than I wanted her to.


----------



## MattCoon (Sep 7, 2009)

Jaege,

I am probably being dense here, but how did you connect the crank arm to the motor shaft?


----------



## jaege (Aug 23, 2009)

I just threaded a screw (1/4 or 5/8 inch I think) into the hole in the motor shaft. Since the hole is plastic and the screw steel, it cuts its own threads, and holds just fine. The screw is 2 inches longs and I screwed it in as far as it would go. The crank arm is attached with lock washers and an acorn nut with the nylon threads to hold it in place. Dont force the screw, just twist it in snug.


----------

