# Want to build an air cannon without microprocessor please help.



## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

I have drooled over Arduino for years and have just never been able to get beyond the basics. I want to build an air cannon to shoot rubber chickens. I have an idea that will use a compressor with tank, an secondary (much smaller tank) A normally open valve and a normally closed valve. I have included a picture. Is there way to do this with only one valve rather than two? I have looked at several sites talking about 4 and 5 way valves but none look like what I need.


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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

I built one awhile back using the method that Cyclone Jack had shared, and it used only one 1/2 two way valve. The design did use a check valve to ensure the air only flowed one direction. I will see if I can find the thread and link it. It worked really well for me, and I used a similar setup to what you mentioned. The only difference was that I was running a handful of pneumatic props off a smaller compressor so I added another 10 gallon storage tank in line right behind the air cannon to make sure it had enough air at all times. I am not sure that was necessary but it made me feel good, and it never failed. I also used a regulator at the prop as I do with all of them so I can set the main line at one psi and adjust each prop individually.


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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

Found it








First Prop of 2013 Done!


I just finished my first prop for 2013! Using a fantastic tutorial posted by terroronshadowway on YouTube, I built an air cannon. The tutorial was in a video entitled "air cannons for dummies 0001" if anyone is interested in building one for themselves.




www.hauntforum.com


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

Riff_JunkieSFR said:


> Found it
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> ...


Thanks for looking that up. Is there a momentary switch that will allow a long enough burst without using up the little tank?


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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

Aquayne said:


> Thanks for looking that up. Is there a momentary switch that will allow a long enough burst without using up the little tank?


Yes, I used a prop controller to fire mine because it was part of a scene. The one that Cyclone Jack built he wired the button in line with the power so it only fired while the button was depressed. Even easier than that, the first pneumatic prop that I built was an ankle tickler that used the exact same valve setup I actually controlled it by plugging it into a power strip that had a switch that I would quickly flip on and then off again to blast the air through. What you will need to do for that setup is use a barrel adapter that has the screw terminals on it to plug into a power supply which will plug into the power strip. I will link some examples below from Frightprops. You will have to make sure the voltage on all of your parts match. I would suggest running it in 12 volt as later on if you wanted to use a prop controller to power & manage it that would be an easier upgrade.









Female Power Supply Adapter with Screw Terminals


Use power supplies without having to cut off the barrel connector! Simply screw in wires from device!




www.frightprops.com












12VDC - 5amps (Regulated) Power Supply


This high amperage power supply can power up to 100 of our LED mini spot lights, 1 of our High Torque Prop Motors, or power our Linear Actuators.




www.frightprops.com












High-Flow 2-Way Valve with 1/2 ports


Much higher flow than our standard 2-way valves. Great for air blasts, noise makers, etc!




www.frightprops.com




https://www.grainger.com/product/6D...tHEK31c-g01woZIknjhoCrjAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
You can certainly find the parts out there cheaper through Jameco, Amazon & Ebay, but when I got started in pneumatics I found the resources available at those links pretty valuable in getting me off the ground.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

Thank you for all the effort you put into your reply. Frightprops is probably a safer option to ebay.


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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

Aquayne said:


> Thank you for all the effort you put into your reply. Frightprops is probably a safer option to ebay.


No problem, and I 100% agree. They also have a really nice support section of their website that has alot of how to's, tips and diagrams.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

This is the projectile I intent to use.


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## corey872 (Jan 10, 2010)

Depending on how automated this 'rooster booster' has to be, you could likely get by with a simple ball valve for your 'normally closed' valve and just use a small orifice...possibly 1/16" - 1/8" for your 'normally open' valve. No electrics/electronics needed.

To fire the 'projectile', just give the ball valve a quick twist and reset. In that 1-2 second interval, you won't loose much from the main tank through a small orifice. But closing the ball valve, your secondary tank will refill over the next few seconds it takes to reset the rooster for another round.

PS - sorry for the big pic! Somehow when I search for 'Mona Lisa' or 'Declaration of Independence' I get a 512x512 thumbnail... when I search for 'ball valve' or 'grease zerk' it's a 10 megapixel high-definition image!


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

I love the name "Rooster Booster" and that is the pretiest picture of a ball valve I have ever seen. The chicken will be fired by the player. I have been looking into a delay relay timer. The problem is people who will hold the trigger too long and bleed off the tank and wear out the compressor. That is why the second valve and the second tank.


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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

Rooster Booster , that is the perfect name for it. I guess it is a different ball game when you have a random participant triggering it instead of someone who has been trained how to trigger it; you could indeed end up completely bleeding the system everytime it is fired. Forgoing the controller route for a time delay switch could very well work. The timer would probably have to be able to be adjusted for under 1 second to allow for a quick burst of air, and having an ability to set a delay between triggers would definately help. I known I have ran across timers that adjusted down to one second, but I am not sure that I have seen one that would go lower. I will see what I can dig up.


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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

Now that I have thought about it, maybe a one second burst or more for your prop depending on the flow rate of the valve would be needed. I am not sure how much air it's going to take to get your rooster air borne, but I would imagine the pipe inserted into your bird would have to clear the air cannon pipe it is sitting on before the air is cut off so you may actutally need the additional time. I am sure that is going to be alot of trial and error, but I did find this timer that may work for you:









Amazon.com: DC 12V Timer Module,Adjustable Timer Delay Turn Off Module Timing Relay Time Switch 1~10sec : Tools & Home Improvement


Buy DC 12V Timer Module,Adjustable Timer Delay Turn Off Module Timing Relay Time Switch 1~10sec: Timer Switches - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

INTERVAL ON
IntervalUpon application of input voltage, the output is energized and the time delay (t) begins. At the end of the time delay (t), the output is de-energized. Input voltage must be removed to reset the time delay relay.
The one you proveded looks like it would allow multiple shots but not a continuous blast that would drain the tank.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

Riff_JunkieSFR said:


> Now that I have thought about it, maybe a one second burst or more for your prop depending on the flow rate of the valve would be needed. I am not sure how much air it's going to take to get your rooster air borne, but I would imagine the pipe inserted into your bird would have to clear the air cannon pipe it is sitting on before the air is cut off so you may actutally need the additional time. I am sure that is going to be alot of trial and error, but I did find this timer that may work for you:
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I just ordered it from Amazon. We will know next week if it works.


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## Allen_Haunts (Jul 26, 2021)

There is an air canon YouTube video on how to build exactly what you want ( I think ). Here is the build video… this canon could be adapted to use Just the electric sprinkler solenoid instead of the hand held air valve attached to it I think.






Since the solenoid would only release for a fraction of a second you wouldn’t need 2 valves due to line size. The gun would dump quickly through 1” lune but the refill from generator would fill from 1/4” or 3/8” line. Your compressor would not empty or dump.


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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

Aquayne said:


> I just ordered it from Amazon. We will know next week if it works.


Awesome! Let us know how it works out. It would be nice to also have a delay before it can be triggered again, but that is probably a feature you are only going to get with programing a controller. Atleast it shouldn't drain your tank in one shot if it works the way it describes.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

I wanted that too but not available. If you look at the diagram, one switch is labeled "safety". That is for the operator to press and hold after loading the next chicken projectile and standing in a safe zone. This way the player can't shoot the operator in the face whole loading.


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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

Aquayne said:


> I wanted that too but not available. If you look at the diagram, one switch is labeled "safety". That is for the operator to press and hold after loading the next chicken projectile and standing in a safe zone. This way the player can't shoot the operator in the face whole loading.


Oh yes, I see that now. If that is something that an operator will be manning how about adding either a toggle switch between the trigger and the timer so that the signal can be turned off or interupt the power coming into the board momentarily while it is reloaded. Assuming there isn't a start up routine programed into the timer it would be easiest to plug it into a power strip with a switch so that the power coming in could be turned off rendering the valve in the nomarlly closed state inoperatable until power is restored and it is triggered thus ensuring no one ends up with rooster face.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

The safety button does that. It is normally open(off) interrupting the power to the system. It must be pressed, and the player trigger pressed to complete the circuit and energize the solenoid valves and fire the chicken. I've been thinking about LEDs and sound too. All this could be done with an Arduino better if I could use one.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

Allen_Haunts said:


> There is an air canon YouTube video on how to build exactly what you want ( I think ). Here is the build video… this canon could be adapted to use Just the electric sprinkler solenoid instead of the hand held air valve attached to it I think.
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Thai is amazing. It takes much less psi per launch than I realized.


Allen_Haunts said:


> There is an air canon YouTube video on how to build exactly what you want ( I think ). Here is the build video… this canon could be adapted to use Just the electric sprinkler solenoid instead of the hand held air valve attached to it I think.
> 
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> ...


That is fantastic! It uses musc lower psi than I realized.


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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

LED's and sound would be a pretty cool addition to it, but yes that is probably getting into the terriory of where a controller would be best to use. I also haven't dabbled with Arduino either although I would really like to, and probably should take a stab at it in the off season. I have just always purchased a prebuilt controller like a Picoboo and then programmed whatever sequence & sound I need into it.


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## Allen_Haunts (Jul 26, 2021)

Aquayne said:


> Thai is amazing. It takes much less psi per launch than I realized.
> 
> That is fantastic! It uses musc lower psi than I realized.


In addition, as to the Arduino, buttonbanger.com has a wonderful show program that’s free and the instructions too build and program the Arduino controller. You can check out my post “My 2021 tombstone build” to see an application of it.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

Allen_Haunts said:


> In addition, as to the Arduino, buttonbanger.com has a wonderful show program that’s free and the instructions too build and program the Arduino controller. You can check out my post “My 2021 tombstone build” to see an application of it.


That sounds great. I need to invest the time to learn. Thanks but until then I'm piecing this thing together. Then I have to design the shooter itself. I'm planning on a liberal use of PVC plumbing parts.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

I am looking for a power supply and I would rather it be water proof or at least for outdoor use. I found this but dont know if a LED power supply will work for the valves etc. I am planning on using?








LED Power Supply 250W High-powerTransformer Waterproof IP67 12V DC Driver Adapter for Outdoor Use - - Amazon.com


LED Power Supply 250W High-powerTransformer Waterproof IP67 12V DC Driver Adapter for Outdoor Use - - Amazon.com



www.amazon.com


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## Allen_Haunts (Jul 26, 2021)

Aquayne said:


> I am looking for a power supply and I would rather it be water proof or at least for outdoor use. I found this but dont know if a LED power supply will work for the valves etc. I am planning on using?
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I buy Tupperware at Walmart and use a soldering iron To burn holes for the wire. Then silicone the edges. Works great in the heavy rain we get here in New Orleans. All my electronics are kept in them, even my controllers.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

Allen_Haunts said:


> I buy Tupperware at Walmart and use a soldering iron To burn holes for the wire. Then silicone the edges. Works great in the heavy rain we get here in New Orleans. All my electronics are kept in them, even my controllers.


That is a brilliant idea.


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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

I have to agree with Allen, that power supply looks like it would work fine for you but you can do it for much less. It is 12v and is rated for more than enough amps. I think a regular 5amp supply would be plenty and would be less than half the price but you would have to weather proof it.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

The two valves are 2A 24W each and the delay trigger switch uses an unknown but small amount of 12V. I also am thinking of adding an MP3 player with 4 triggers for 4 different sound effects. Don't I have to add all the watts/Amps up to know how big the transformer must be?


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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

Sorry, I didn't realize you were going to use two valves. Yes you would add them up, in that case maybe step it up to a 10amp. I got a pretty inexpensive one last year from Jameco, but they do not have them in stock at the moment and neither did Surplus Center. I did find this one and it has the standard 5.5x2.5mm end:








Amazon.com: Xenocam 12V 10A 120W DC Power Supply Adapter 100V~240V AC to DC Converter 12 Volt 10 Amp Transformer 5.5x2.5mm Tip for 5050 3528 LED Strip Light 3D Printer LED Driver CCTV Security System LCD Monitor : Everything Else


Amazon.com: Xenocam 12V 10A 120W DC Power Supply Adapter 100V~240V AC to DC Converter 12 Volt 10 Amp Transformer 5.5x2.5mm Tip for 5050 3528 LED Strip Light 3D Printer LED Driver CCTV Security System LCD Monitor : Everything Else



www.amazon.com


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

Riff_JunkieSFR said:


> Sorry, I didn't realize you were going to use two valves. Yes you would add them up, in that case maybe step it up to a 10amp. I got a pretty inexpensive one last year from Jameco, but they do not have them in stock at the moment and neither did Surplus Center. I did find this one and it has the standard 5.5x2.5mm end:
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Thanks for all the effort you put in this.


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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

No problem, hopefully it's helpful to you.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

This looks promising. Each fuse is for 2 amps. The solenoids are 2A each. Would I need just 4A supply or shoud I add another 2A for safety? 









Amazon.com: Yaetek CCTV 18 Channel Output 30 Amp 12V DC CCTV Distributed Power Supply Box for Security Camera (12V 30A 360W 18 Output) : Electronics


Buy Yaetek CCTV 18 Channel Output 30 Amp 12V DC CCTV Distributed Power Supply Box for Security Camera (12V 30A 360W 18 Output): Power Converters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

Aquayne said:


> This looks promising. Each fuse is for 2 amps. The solenoids are 2A each. Would I need just 4A supply or shoud I add another 2A for safety?
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That's a pretty cool idea to power everything. It looks like it comes with it's own power supply so that is taken care of. I always added extra amperage to make sure things run smoothly, so with each channel being 2amps and your valves pulling 2amps that may be an issue. The door however looks like its states "Fuses can be upgraded 2 amperage required providing total power output does not exceed 27A." So you could simply swap out the fuses on the channels the valves are powered from to 3 or 4amp fuses if they are a problem. With that being said if it's total power output is 27amps and it has 18 channels they are actually designed for 1.5amps each so you would just need to keep that in mind for anything else you hook up to it.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

Riff_JunkieSFR said:


> That's a pretty cool idea to power everything. It looks like it comes with it's own power supply so that is taken care of. I always added extra amperage to make sure things run smoothly, so with each channel being 2amps and your valves pulling 2amps that may be an issue. The door however looks like its states "Fuses can be upgraded 2 amperage required providing total power output does not exceed 27A." So you could simply swap out the fuses on the channels the valves are powered from to 3 or 4amp fuses if they are a problem. With that being said if it's total power output is 27amps and it has 18 channels they are actually designed for 1.5amps each so you would just need to keep that in mind for anything else you hook up to it.


Thank you so much, that is exactly what I needed to know. Thank you for being generous with your knowledge. Now I just need to wait a few weeks for pay day to order it. 








Amazon.com: Electronics123.com, Inc. 4 Buttons Triggered MP3 Player Board with 10W Amplifier and Terminal Blocks : Toys & Games


Buy Electronics123.com, Inc. 4 Buttons Triggered MP3 Player Board with 10W Amplifier and Terminal Blocks: Science Kits & Toys - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com




This is the MP3 player I'm looking at.


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## Allen_Haunts (Jul 26, 2021)

Aquayne said:


> Thank you so much, that is exactly what I needed to know. Thank you for being generous with your knowledge. Now I just need to wait a few weeks for pay day to order it.
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This is the MP3 player I use…









Hailege YX5300 UART Control Serial MP3 Music Player Module for Arduino/AVR/ARM/PIC: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


Hailege YX5300 UART Control Serial MP3 Music Player Module for Arduino/AVR/ARM/PIC: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



www.amazon.com


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

That is very nice but it requires an Arduino. I, apparently, am piecing together a semi-analog controller for this thing. I'm working on drawing out a wiring diagram for myself.


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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

Aquayne said:


> Thank you so much, that is exactly what I needed to know. Thank you for being generous with your knowledge. Now I just need to wait a few weeks for pay day to order it.
> 
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> ...


No problem, thats a pretty neat MP3 player. It looks like it has four inputs for four MP3 files to be triggered, and one audio output. Are you planning on using one channel of it for your build or do you have a series of individual triggers in mind?


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

Riff_JunkieSFR said:


> No problem, thats a pretty neat MP3 player. It looks like it has four inputs for four MP3 files to be triggered, and one audio output. Are you planning on using one channel of it for your build or do you have a series of individual triggers in mind?


It is triggered by - input. I think I can us one with main power turned on, one for when the safety switch is depressed and one when the rooster booster is triggered. I plan on using the headphone jack to an amplified audio.


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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

Aquayne said:


> It is triggered by - input. I think I can us one with main power turned on, one for when the safety switch is depressed and one when the rooster booster is triggered. I plan on using the headphone jack to an amplified audio.


OK cool, let us know how it works out for you.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

I have made progress with the Hooey-Doo Farms Rooster Booster

So far this is my shopping list of what I have collected.









Waterproof Solder Seal Wire Connectors 65PCS AIRIC Heat Shrink Solder Connectors Kit 26-10 Gauge Waterproof Wire Connectors for Automotive, Marine Self-Solder Wire Connectors Heat Shrink: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


Waterproof Solder Seal Wire Connectors 65PCS AIRIC Heat Shrink Solder Connectors Kit 26-10 Gauge Waterproof Wire Connectors for Automotive, Marine Self-Solder Wire Connectors Heat Shrink: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



www.amazon.com




https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCYST96?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K46TTHX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PJKL2GW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X287BSX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Amazon.com: 10 Pairs DC Power Pigtail Cable, 12V 5A 2.1mm x 5.5 mm Male & Female Connectors for CCTV Security Camera and Lighting Power Adapter : Electronics
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SL5HBZ9?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
25 FT 12 Gauge Speaker Wire Cable Car Home Audio 25' Black & Red Zip Cable 685650089713 | eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/112486453168
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202320465929?var=502296922129








1/4 inch NORMALLY OPEN 12V DC VDC Brass Solenoid Valve NPT ONE-YEAR WARRANTY | eBay


ACE CREW® solenoid valves and accessories. 1/4" NPT female (18 TPI). Forged high-quality solid brass. Normally open (valve closes when coil is energized). 12VDC ,24VDC ,24VAC ,110/120VAC, and220/240VAC.



www.ebay.com





I had a broken one gallon air compressor that I used for the secondary air supply. I have 25' of hybrid silicone and rubber compressor hose.

Next I need to design a shooter assembly and stand for the game. I'm thinking PVC.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

I did not invest in the MP3 player yet. It may be added later.


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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

This is turning out to be quite an interesting build. I was going through your parts list and I noticed that both valves you listed are 1/4" npt, I believe all of the air cannons I have seen have used 1/2" npt for volume. Did your design end up requiring less air volume, or was it for ease of plumbing with the rest of your build?


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

I may have to move the valve from the tank to the launcher. The fitting for all the air lines is 1/4" so we will see if there is enough volume when I get this all together. I may have to get a bigger valve.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

Today I got all the wiring done, minus any sound cards, and IT WORKS! The delay timer is set as low as it can go so, one second blast of air is released from the secondary air tank that refills as soon as the trigger button is released. I'm working on the cannon part now. It is a 12 " long 1/2" iron pipe with one set of threats cut off. There is a brass fitting that goes down to 1/4" so it can be connected to the air hose to the tank. Finally making progress.


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## Riff_JunkieSFR (Jul 11, 2011)

Aquayne said:


> Today I got all the wiring done, minus any sound cards, and IT WORKS! The delay timer is set as low as it can go so, one second blast of air is released from the secondary air tank that refills as soon as the trigger button is released. I'm working on the cannon part now. It is a 12 " long 1/2" iron pipe with one set of threats cut off. There is a brass fitting that goes down to 1/4" so it can be connected to the air hose to the tank. Finally making progress.


Awesome news, glad to hear things are up and running. I acutally thought about your build recently as we were getting ready for our youngest son's birthday party. My wife decided to set up yard games to keep the kids entertained and I thought I bet they would really like to shoot rubber chickens across the yard.....if only my air cannon wasn't buried in the storage unit.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

Riff_JunkieSFR said:


> Awesome news, glad to hear things are up and running. I acutally thought about your build recently as we were getting ready for our youngest son's birthday party. My wife decided to set up yard games to keep the kids entertained and I thought I bet they would really like to shoot rubber chickens across the yard.....if only my air cannon wasn't buried in the storage unit.


There is an inherent elegance to blasting a rubber chicken through the air with a puff of air.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

I am now working on the ammo. I found that 200psi 3/4" pvc fits a 1/2" iron pipe pretty well. I intend to heat the pipe and pinch it to make it more air tight for launch.


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## RoxyBlue (Oct 6, 2008)

I am so looking forward to the video of the cannon firing rubber chickens willy nilly


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

RoxyBlue said:


> I am so looking forward to the video of the cannon firing rubber chickens willy nilly


It won't be long now.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

I'm having trouble,as feared, with the size of the outlets on the old compressor tank I am using as the secondary reservoir for the shooter. They are only 1/8" and adapted up to 1/4". I expected to only need 40psi to shoot this but it will only go about 4 feet, 60psi is little better. I'm going to try all the way up to 100psi, but it would deplete my little compressor pretty quickly. I'm going to first look at the fitting again and tap the exit one to 1/4" to see if it will work. That will be the cheapest way and I can use everything else as is. I may have to go up to 1/2" and then I will have to invest in another valve and hose to move the air.


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## Allen_Haunts (Jul 26, 2021)

Aquayne said:


> I'm having trouble,as feared, with the size of the outlets on the old compressor tank I am using as the secondary reservoir for the shooter. They are only 1/8" and adapted up to 1/4". I expected to only need 40psi to shoot this but it will only go about 4 feet, 60psi is little better. I'm going to try all the way up to 100psi, but it would deplete my little compressor pretty quickly. I'm going to first look at the fitting again and tap the exit one to 1/4" to see if it will work. That will be the cheapest way and I can use everything else as is. I may have to go up to 1/2" and then I will have to invest in another valve and hose to move the air.


The size of the holding tank that you charge has a lot to do with it. The more volume and pressure is the key.


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## Aquayne (Sep 1, 2008)

We have liftoff! I was able to add a layer of felt to the inside of the cylinder inside the chicken and with the blow-by controlled it works very well. Pictures to follow. 
My daughters and I have been shooting the chicken down the hallway of our house with abandon and lots of giggles.


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