# LED connection for 9V battery



## madmomma (Jul 1, 2009)

I broke the connection from a pre-wired pair of LEDs I was going to use for eyes in a skull. They connect to a 9V battery snap. I found some LEDs with built in resistors and extra battery snaps in case I can't fix the 1st set.

Can I peel back the coating on the one original wire and reconnect the red led? If not, how should I wire the 2 new red LEDs to the battery snap. Here are the specs for the LEDs: Forward voltage: 12.0 typ. 16.0 max, forward current: 12mA typ. 20mA max. ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated!








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[IMG][URL=http://s962.photo...attery Photo by madmomma_photos | Photobucket[/IMG]


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## [email protected] (Aug 25, 2012)

Here are the instructions that come with the MonsterGuts eye kits. I don't think they're the greatest in terms of "For Dummies" clarity, but I managed to get it all figured out.


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## madmomma (Jul 1, 2009)

Thanks Stari3oy! I'll attempt the directions you posted although I don't have any shrink tubing at this time. I do have a 12V wall wart connected to 2 LEDs w/resistors (see photo) which I may use if I don't have a chance to rewire the Monsterguts version (and find my soldering iron.)









I'll just have to figure out how to insert it into the back of my skull where the 9V was supposed to go. Luckily the styrofoam skull is large enough.

I appreciate your help!


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## ScaryTinker (Mar 23, 2007)

Electrical tape will replace the heat shrink tubing. In fact, given the voltage you could use masking tape or Scotch tape.


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## heresjohnny (Feb 15, 2006)

ScaryTinker said:


> Electrical tape will replace the heat shrink tubing. In fact, given the voltage you could use masking tape or Scotch tape.


For 12 volt, hot glue works well too.


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## madmomma (Jul 1, 2009)

I decided to stick with the 9V because the wires were longer and fit better into the styro skull. I'll save the 12V series connection for another time. I was actually able to strip the shrink tubing and connect a new 5mm LED to the battery snap wiring by twisting together, then hot glue, then electrical tape and VOILA, it worked. Only problem is that I have to leave the skull lit for hours when it gets dark because the 9v doesn't have an on/off switch. That's what actually tempted me to use the 12V because it was easy to unplug form the source rather than having to open the back of the skull to turn the LEDs off.
Carved Out Styro Skull For LED Eyes & Battery Photo by madmomma_photos | Photobucket








Thanks for your help guys! I'm getting a tiny bit better at the whole wiring thing! Made my own set of LED spots several years ago at the NJ Make & Take and they're all still working!


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