# Solenoids



## gthorpe2

I'm new to pneumatics and I was going to get a couple solenoids from mcmasters.com and I was wondering what would be the best for a monster in the box and Trash can truma.


----------



## Erebus

I buy my solenoids from fright props since they are usually cheaper than most places. We really can't tell you what kind of solenoid you need to get unless we know what kind of cylinder you have. If you have a double action cylider, than you will need at least a 4-way solenoid. If the cylider is a single action with a spring return, than a 3-way solenoid will work.


----------



## gthorpe2

I was going to get a single action cyclinder for the trash can and maybe a double for the Monster in a box.


----------



## DarkLore

MonsterGuts sells a pneumatic kit for monster in a box. Even if you aren't buying from them, it will give you an idea of what would be used. Some people use one cylinder for the lid, or one for the bottom to make the box bounce...or both.

Be sure you know what size connectors you need to match the cylinder and the valve.

Also...consider your power before you order. If you are using a prop controller like those from efx-tek, you'll want to match the channel output.


----------



## randyaz

theres currently some decent deals on ebay on manifold/bank smc solenoids


----------



## DarkLore

I wondered about some of those smc manifolds. But I wasn't sure if they are workable for prop use. Especially with din connections since I've never used a din connection.

I contacted one of the smc sellers with a couple basic questions and the response was pretty much - you're on your own.


----------



## kprimm

For a simple pop up you can just use a little mac valve. You can buy one from fiero fluids for $17.50. Monster guts sells the 5 port 4 way solenoids for double acting cylinders. Check out this page for link to mac valve and a pic of it.

http://halloweenpropmaster.com/coffin_sit_up.htm


----------



## DarkLore

randyaz said:


> theres currently some decent deals on ebay on manifold/bank smc solenoids


I bought three smc solenoids w/manifolds on ebay. One problem - they are tiny little buggers. About the size of a pack of cigarettes. Nothing close to the size of a normal valve. They run on 12vdc so controlling them isn't a problem. The real question - now that I have them, what the hell can I do with them? Popup gopher-skels?

Has anyone ever worked with mini valves? I'm guessing that's what they are called. I could use them for pneumatic jaw movements on skulls, but I'm curious what kind of pressure can go through these. I have about ten cylinders ranging from 1" stroke up to around 19". Any idea of these valves can sustain the lid movement for a monster in the box?


----------



## uncle

I have used quite a few of those mini ones and they work great for the cylinder lengths you are talking about. BUT the cylinder diameter is often the key. Larger diameters require more volume (but can handle greater weight).

Unless the fitting sizes are smaller than 1/4" I don't believe you will have many problems using them.


----------



## GrimAftermath

I agree with uncle. You can use any solenoid with any cylinder. Half inch solenoids will move a lot of air fast. So if you have a heavy prop or need it to move very fast. 3/8th solenoid is a great middle of the road one. Most of my props use 3/8 solenoids. I say even if you are using a single acting ram, I would suggest getting a 4 way valve. you can just plug the hole you don't need. That way when you decide to go to a double acting rams.


----------



## DarkLore

Uncle - The valve size you are referring to is much bigger than this. Figure the tubing you would use for a common bimba 1/8" fitting....these smc manifold valves have tube outputs that are quite a bit smaller.

I have a very small bimba cylinder labeled 012-D. (Search the web or check ebay...I see a few listings for them.) That's the only cylinder I have that looks like it matches the valves. And that cylinder doesn't appear strong enough to lift a liter bottle of soda.


----------



## uncle

Illiteracy is a terrible thing! I somehow didn't read that they were valves AND manifolds combining to a cigarette pack size.

The 012D appears to have a 7/16" bore 2" throw, so it would probably lift a soda bottle. Maybe you could make a haunted beverage tray?


----------



## DarkLore

Sorry to get off topic. Gthorpe did you get the information you needed about a pnuematic setup for MIB?

(Uncle - no problem...I often overlook things when I'm reading these threads. )


----------



## madmomma

*solenoids*

This thread is very interesting. I never made anything pneumatic YET, however now that my washing machine broke after 10 years and we're going to trash it, can I salvage the solenoid from it??? I've seen in some posts that washing machine solenoids can be used for pneumatic props. What do I tell my plumber to keep? Once I have that, I'll figure out the simplest way to use it for my first pneumatic prop. I'm thinking a grave peeper might be one of the easiest to start with. Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated


----------



## madmomma

I just went on FrightProps Q&A section and their info is excellent for pneumatic newbies like me. I didn't check out Monsterguts (did purchase motors from them-excellent service) yet but am sure it is similar. I'm definitely going to spring for a kit for my first prop then go more DIY as I become more experienced.


----------



## DarkLore

madmomma said:


> I just went on FrightProps Q&A section and their info is excellent for pneumatic newbies like me. I didn't check out Monsterguts (did purchase motors from them-excellent service) yet but am sure it is similar. I'm definitely going to spring for a kit for my first prop then go more DIY as I become more experienced.


Good to hear. I'm sure it will be great. Be sure to post some photos.

FYI - I picked up a very useable black trash can at Home Depot tonight for about $13. (Luckily in my case, I already have the cylinder and valve parts.)


----------



## SouthernHaunter

good thread - I too am working on my first pneumatic prop. I was considering 110v AC solenoids. Is there an advantage to 12v vs 110v AC?


----------



## DarkLore

SouthernHaunter said:


> good thread - I too am working on my first pneumatic prop. I was considering 110v AC solenoids. Is there an advantage to 12v vs 110v AC?


We had a conversation about 24v vs 12v. I'm sure the conversation would be similar.

My two cents....110 would be useful if you plan to use remote controls (such as x10) for outlets to control the props rather than controlling via a prop controller. Otherwise...I try to standard everything on 12v.


----------



## bert1913

i only buy 4 way valves, because it's easy to convert them to 3 way valves by plugging one of the ports making it more versatile.


----------



## hauntedyards

Man I remember these conversations going on for days over on the old M.O.M.

I've never used a 12v solenoid. I have some 120v ones I started out with and all of mine are 24v now. I scored a bulk lot of 20 - 24x wallwarts on EBay years ago. I also use a Power One 24vdc 10amp DC Power Supply which I got for $14.95 on Ebay and it will power all my props centrally in the future.

I also would stay away from washing machine solenoids for scare props. While they will turn on and dump are they usually aren't strong enough to turn off quickly under air power.


----------



## Darkmaster

hauntedyards said:


> Man I remember these conversations going on for days over on the old M.O.M.
> 
> I've never used a 12v solenoid. I have some 120v ones I started out with and all of mine are 24v now. I scored a bulk lot of 20 - 24x wallwarts on EBay years ago. I also use a Power One 24vdc 10amp DC Power Supply which I got for $14.95 on Ebay and it will power all my props centrally in the future.
> 
> I also would stay away from washing machine solenoids for scare props. While they will turn on and dump are they usually aren't strong enough to turn off quickly under air power.


I have to agree here. These valves have a very SLOW closure rate. I switched to other solenoid valves that are faster to react.


----------

