# Props 101: Props as a single unit?



## edwood saucer (Aug 21, 2006)

I have not read too much about this so here it goes:

Ideally - I think I would like to have some props work as "plug-n-play."

Meaning - I want a single unit ->prop, light, and sound - that would be triggered by a motion detector.

I don't want a single networked control panel that controls the whole yard. I have neither the resources nor the interest in delving that deep into it - though I envy - with much envy - those who do just that.

So I thought a modular system might be more for me. The prop, self contained sound, and a light.

However - do I need the "prop 1 controller" to do all this or can the motion detector trigger a circuit that is always on?

I love the way some of the pneumatics displays trigger all these at once - but don't know how it's done without some sort of elaborate control.

Thanks!


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## TSquared (Nov 4, 2007)

Here's about the simplest solution. You could use a motion detector outlet. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Ziotek-Sensor-Plug/dp/B000BSLTNI

They also have these at Home Depot. You could hook the 120v outlet to a 120v solenoid to power the pneumatic cylinder and also hook it to a spotlight. The sound is the tough part. Easiest solution is attach a predator call to the exhaust of the solenoid. Search the forums here. The effect is very good and I wish I could remember the person's name off the top of my head to give him credit.

If you build a pop up prop, you will only need a two way solenoid as the weight of the prop ought to bring it down on it's own. Downside of this is that the prop will stay up until person gets out of the beam and the motion detector switches off.


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## Hellspawn (Oct 13, 2006)

Ed,

I have been trying to go this route the past couple of years and for the most part its worked out pretty well, except for my pneumatic props, the probelm im running into (and could be solved with lots of money) is that kids keep triggering them over and over and over and over and... (you get the idea) not only that, the motion detector that I use (11.00 from home depot) has a 6 second on time (test switch) and having some of my air props going for 6 straight seconds will run me out of air in no time which means the next time its triggered, there might not be any pressure to move the prop.

I know there are solutions to my problem, I just dont have the financial resources to invest the amount of money needed to get it going and on top of that, I have a hard time justifying paying alot of money on props that cost me under 30.00 to build and work great with a manual trigger. 

All of my electronic props are single units (sounds, lights, motion, ect) makes it a breeze to setup and breakdown, all I have to do is run 1 power cord to each prop.

Next spring, im going to run a couple GFCI circuits to my front yard and place outlet boxes where I can have easy access for my props and lights without running long extension cords.


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## beelce (Jul 21, 2007)

Hey Ed I feel the same way about my props...What I do is set up a scene with props lights sounds and whatever, that is controled by a single power source with a motion sensor...the whole scene comes to life when someone walks by, then shuts down when the motion stops. I use a power strip hacked with a motion sensor...both from home depot...cheap and works well on the 6 second test mode. check out the picture
http://picasaweb.google.com/beelce1...WoodsNearNewOrleans/photo#5079030235533165970


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## Hellspawn (Oct 13, 2006)

beelce said:


> Hey Ed I feel the same way about my props...What I do is set up a scene with props lights sounds and whatever, that is controled by a single power source with a motion sensor...the whole scene comes to life when someone walks by, then shuts down when the motion stops. I use a power strip hacked with a motion sensor...both from home depot...cheap and works well on the 6 second test mode. check out the picture
> http://picasaweb.google.com/beelce1...WoodsNearNewOrleans/photo#5079030235533165970


Wow, those powerstrips are cool, got any more pics? how did you put them together?

I see the basic idea how you did it, but id like to see how you wired it up internally.


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## beelce (Jul 21, 2007)

thanks hellspawn...this not really a "how to", but here are few more pics...http://picasaweb.google.com/beelce1/PowerStripHowTo02


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## edwood saucer (Aug 21, 2006)

Hellspawn - I think B's idea is great too.

B - any chance of a more detailed report? I can follow directions - but if I had to figure it out - I'd probably be the corpse in the front yard next year!

This seems to be exactly what I had in mind.

NOW - the only piece of the puzzle is triggering an instantaneous sound...

Thanks B!


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## slightlymad (May 25, 2006)

I like that idea.


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## Todd (Sep 1, 2007)

Edwood,
In response to your instantaneous sound I wanted to share one I have utilized that may work for you. It is a "recorder" from radioshack @ 10.00.
You can record up to 20 seconds of sound that you choose.
It has an attached speaker that is utilized to record and playback sounds.
I hacked the speaker off and attached an 1/8 female mono plug that lets me switch between a microphone to record the desired sound, and then attach a set of amplified computer speakers for playback.
The trigger button was also removed and wires were then soldered on the circuit board to provide for a remote triggering device. [ simple soldering hack to board] This circuit is then triggered by an "ice cube" type relay which also activates the light.
Be aware that the trigger has to be contacted momentarily as in released prior to the end of the sound that is recorded or the sound will be replayed when the trigger is released. In your case if 6 seconds is the duration of your detector cycle then record 8-10 and the sound will finish as the prop resets. 
I utilized this with my grave pop up and it has worked without any problems.
In my application I have one button which is manually pushed [ this would be your motion detector] and held to energize the pneumatic solenoid this also energizes a relay that is the trigger for the playback as well as a spot light for the prop.
When the button is pushed you simply hold it for about 6 seconds in which the prop rises lights come on sound screams...release it prior to the end of the playback, and lights go off prop settles back down and recorded sound finishes and prop is ready to go again.
I have read that some people have utilized this and have had problems with false triggers. I mounted mine in a metal altoids box and keep it somewhat isolated from the other components.
I will try to post some pics.
Todd


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## Brad Green (Jul 29, 2004)

Ed Wood, ALL the props I have built are designed as stand alone units, from the singing skeleton to all my pneumatic's, every one is a plug-n-play. Never mastered the technology for anything else. Prop1's are great if you need to trigger multiple functions, like the motions required for a singing skull with pan/tilt, but the tombstone leaper I built has multiple function (light switching from flood to strobe, fog machine activation, scream box, and air ram trigger) and it's all run by $9 Radio Shack relays. I just drag it out in the yard, plug in one ext. cord and an air compressor and it's ready to run. I trigger all my props with an X10 set up (they're listed on Ebay, starter sets are under $30). Basically, an X10 gives you a key pad that can trigger up to sixteen items using recievers that plug into the outlets you want to control. It's just a better version of those key-fob units people use to remotely turn on Christmas lights. Solves the problem of kids repeatedly tripping your PIR triggers, plus you have the added fun of watching them jump up and down in front of the prop trying to get it to fire!


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## Dr Morbius (Sep 21, 2004)

TSquared said:


> Easiest solution is attach a predator call to the exhaust of the solenoid. Search the forums here. The effect is very good and I wish I could remember the person's name off the top of my head to give him credit.


dave the dead invented the predator call technique:

http://www.hauntforum.com/showthread.php?t=5692

That scream still makes me laugh to this day. (in a good way)..


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## slightlymad (May 25, 2006)

Aw man i love that just love it leave it to Dave


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## beelce (Jul 21, 2007)

YES Brad!! thanks for the lead on the whole "x10" thing. I knew that this stuff was out there, I just have not seen it for a while. I think that I'll give it try...seems inexpensive too. Do you have to triger the outlets manually or can they be auto activated some way? Seems hard to watch and run multiple props and watch over the rest of my haunt at the same time.


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## The_Caretaker (Mar 6, 2007)

I way to keeps props from being triggered constantly is to include a circuit using a 555 to that is triggered at the same time as the prop and then disables the trigger for a set amount of time I know there are a number of sites that have them I will need to check when I am on my home system for some of the links


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## time2dive (Dec 29, 2007)

As of now I want most of my props to be stand alone. For my first pneumatic project I am using a modified motion sensor to trigger a programmable event timer from cowlacious.com to control my pneumatic actuator and prop. So far everything has worked as planned. The motion sensor provides a trigger to the PET and it does the rest.
I can post a link to photos of my prop if anyone cares.

Tim


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## airscapes (Oct 3, 2006)

Using the 555 with delay activate and locout delay make the kids go freakin nuts.. why won't it go.. ah comon mister make it go.. and then BAM! Gets em every time!


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## Brad Green (Jul 29, 2004)

Sorry for the delayed answer Beelce, wasn't paying attention. Yeah, the X-10 requires a manual triggering (use's a little hand-held remote, holds up to 16 recievers) It work's for me because mine is an outside display, I just sit off to the side with the candy bucket and trigger things as I see people get near them. The good part is that you can trigger multiples, it just depends on how fast your fingers can run down the pad.


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