# Wiper motor controller circuit



## Otaku

Hi all,
Remember the"Buried Alive" coffin I built last year that opened and closed it's lid automatically? Jeff at Simple Circuit Boards now has that motor controller circuit board for sale. It's just the board, no components, and at this time he doesn't plan to offer the built-out circuit so buyers would be responsible for getting the necessary parts and doing the assembly. I just built out the board that Jeff sent me, and its waaay easier than building from scratch. Jeff can supply a parts list, and I'm always available to answer questions. I recommend using a motor from Monster Guts as the mounting bolt locations on those motors make it easy to attach the opto sensor. Here's a video of the circuit in action:

Coffin with corpse video by Otaku1031 - [email protected]@[email protected]@http://vid73.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/Otaku1031/[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@i231/Otaku1031/MOV06444


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## hedg12

Very cool! Thanks!


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## jabberwocky

I'll have to look into this.............


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## SpookySam

Nifty. What's the price point?


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## Otaku

He's selling them for $10 each for the first one. If you buy more than one the price for the remainder is $7 each. So two boards would be $10 + $7. The price includes shipping. The cost of the parts needed to complete the circuit cost about $13, not including shipping. Most of the parts are at All Electronics. One 12VDC 10A relay is required (Radio Shack, ~$9) and the opto sensor is at Mouser Electronics (~$2).


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## DarkLore

I love the prop. I'll bet he's terrific lit up. 

Could you post a couple pics of the board and the mechanics so we know what we'd be getting into?


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## Otaku

Here's a link to a couple of pics of the coffin. I'll get more up in few days if you're interested in seeing how the motor and linkage work.

http://halloweengallery.com/displayimage.php?pos=-3814


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## DarkLore

I'm definitely interested. But I've never soldered circuit boards, so that's the part that concerns me.


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## SpookySam

Soldering is easy. Soldering correctly is where I have a problem.


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## hpropman

Very cool thanks Otaku!


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## hpropman

I do not see the boards on his website do we have to contact him for it?


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## Otaku

hpropman said:


> I do not see the boards on his website do we have to contact him for it?


Yeah, Jeff hasn't updated his site for a while now. Just ask for the wiper motor controller circuit and he'll know what you're talking about.


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## hpropman

cool thanks


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## Otaku

Before anyone gets too far along with this circuit, I need to let you know about how this board is triggered. It uses a simple R/C timer to control the power going to a 555 astable timer which in turn controls the motor "jog" functions. The R/C timer requires a 1-2 sec 9VDC pulse to charge up the cap and start the circuit. This can come from a manual momentary switch or button with a 9 volt battery wired in series with the trigger input, a timed pulse from a relay board (Kit 74, Prop-1 etc) again with a 9VDC power source in series. I use a Quorum A-160 PIR sensor:
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G4567
It goes on sale sometimes for as little as $5. It delivers a 2 sec 9VDC pulse when it detects a heat source, making it ideal for automating the trigger.


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## DarkLore

Easy flew right out the window.


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## Otaku

DarkLore said:


> Easy flew right out the window.


I know it sounds a bit sophisticated, but the board is really quite easy to put together. Jeff supplies a map showing where all the parts are mounted. There are a couple of pieces of hardware that you have to make - the reflector bar that mounts on the wiper motor shaft and a short aluminum or plastic bar to mount the opto sensor. I have dimensioned pictures of these parts if you need them. This week I'll get pix of how I mounted the wiper motor in the coffin so you can see how the linkage works. I'll also get pix of the circuit board.

BTW, this circuit can also be used for a Trash Can Trauma prop. Wiper motors are pretty powerful and shouldn't have a problem lifting a plastic or thin metal lid.


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## DarkLore

I have three motors arriving tommorrow from our friends at MonsterGuts. I haven't determined the specific use for each of them yet....so it's possible I'll give it a try.


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## Otaku

Here's a shot of how I mounted the motor in the coffin:

http://halloweengallery.com/displayimage.php?pos=-3843

The motor case is held by a 3" steel post support (Home Depot, ~$2) and the front of the motor is mounted to a 3" angle support. I needed to stack 3 or 4 1/4-20 washers under the angle support to match the post support height.


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## bradbaum

I ordered a board today, and some of the parts.
I will have some extra parts if somebody else is building one.


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## Otaku

bradbaum said:


> I ordered a board today, and some of the parts.
> I will have some extra parts if somebody else is building one.


Cool. Let me know if I can help with anything. Aligning the opto-sensor can be tricky and a little frustrating until you learn where it "sees" the reflector.


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## bradbaum

Did you use anything special for the reflector?

Right now the relay comes on when the board is powered and never shuts off.


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## Otaku

bradbaum said:


> Did you use anything special for the reflector?
> 
> Right now the relay comes on when the board is powered and never shuts off.


Nope, it's just a piece of thin aluminum stock. It sounds like the opto sensor isn't seeing the reflector strip. The optimum distance from the opto to the reflector is .150" - .200". Also, be sure that the bent portions of the reflector faces are nearly parallel relative to the opto window. The reflector does not have to be shiny, just flat. If there is a LOT of ambient light on the opto when you are running the system, it can wash out the IR beam from the emitter. It works best in low ambient light conditions.

Try this test:
Unplug the motor power, but leave the board power on. Place a piece of flat stock - a playing card will work - between the opto and the reflector. You should hear the 10A relay click when you move it in and out. If you don't hear the click, check the color-coded opto wires to be sure that they're in the right terminals. If you can send me a pic of the setup, I can probably see what's wrong right away. My email is [email protected].

Another factor that can cause continuous running is an improper setting on the "jog" timer. What speed do you have the wiper set for? If you're running 12VDC at "fast" speed, the "jog" time must be set very low. This adjustment is the R3 trimpot (on the latest version of the board). The "jog" time is what overrides the opto for a moment so the motor can begin rotating. If the time is set for too long, the opto will not be re-enabled in time to halt the rotation.


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## bradbaum

Here are the pictures of my set up so far.

Coffin :: board and motor picture by bradbaum - Photobucket

Coffin :: board picture by bradbaum - Photobucket

I don't have a trigger yet, but I figured I would just do a 9 volt battery for testing.

I am starting to think my 555 is dead. I'll try a new one tomorrow.


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## Otaku

It's hard to see the gap between the opto and the reflector in the pic. I'll assume it's set to the proper distance. Yes, a 9 volt battery will work fine as a trigger - just give the circuit ~2 secs of 9VDC to start things up. A dead 555 won't affect the opto portion of the circuit, though. Did you try the test with a card to see if the opto is functioning properly?


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## DarkLore

I bought the lumber, hardware, and motor to build the coffin. Now I need to figure out the measurements. Can you post (or pm) dimensions on the coffin size?


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## Otaku

I used the plans from Shallow Valley:

http://www.shallowvalley.com/images/OurHauntBuriedAlivePlans.gif

I used a tea solution/iron acetate method for aging the wood. Here's a link to the method:
http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/7_17mcnamarart.html
Look under the Chemical Treatment section.


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## DarkLore

lol...I think I have an excess of wood. Thanks for the links.


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## bradbaum

I have been thinking about my problem at work this morning and then I checked a few things when I ran home at lunch.

I think I have a bad relay - I don't have 5v on the orange wire that powers the IR LED in the sensor. I have the 5v going into the relay but not out of the relay (either on NC or NO).

Of course the relays are the one thing I didn't buy spares of. I'll have to dig around tonight and see if I can find one that will work.

DarkLore - I bought my coffin off craigslist a month ago for $20, that is what prompted me to buy the board.


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## Otaku

Are the Com, NC, and NO pins on your relay compatible with the traces on the board? The relay spec'd in the parts list (All Electronics p/n RLY-625) has the correct pinout.


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## bradbaum

I used the relays specified from All Electronics, I just don't see the 5 volts coming out of the relay, I am assuming the contacts are bad inside the relay. I'll look at it some more tonight.


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## DarkLore

> I bought my coffin off craigslist a month ago for $20, that is what prompted me to buy the board.


At $20, you did well I think. When I left the depot, the lady looked at me like I was going to build an ark. Granted...I bought wood for two projects. But she did look out the door to see if Noah had the truck running.

Now I'm relying on you to get the kinks worked out by the time my coffin is built.


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## Otaku

Brad, during assembly did you happen to install the opto Darlington backwards and power up the board? If so, this will blow the Darlington and might cause the problem you are experiencing. Also, in your pic of the board, the 20K resistor (red, black, orange) looks like a 22K (red, red, orange), but it could be just the lighting in the pic.

Later: After copying and blowing up the pic, I think you have a 22K resistor in there.


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## DarkLore

I've finished my board. Although I haven't powered it up yet, I can compare. I agree...the 20K on your board doesn't look like mine.


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## Otaku

Check the color code - it should be red-black-orange (left to right). I'm not sure what a 22K will do in that location but it may interfere with the operation of the opto sensor. If you have a DMM, check the value.


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## DarkLore

Your setup appears to have an mp3 hack with an amplifier. It appears to be wired to the same trigger. What is the amplifier kit you used?


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## DarkLore

The rest of my parts came in, along with my 12v1amp wall wart. Time to test the controller.


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## bradbaum

are you running your motor of 12v? I tested mine with 12v but am thinking of going to 5v to slow it down when I install it in the coffin.


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## Otaku

FWIW, the coffin I built is using 5VDC on the motor. I liked the slower action, but it would be cool if you could use 12VDC on the opening 1/2 rotation so you get the startle effect, then close the lid slowly.


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## DarkLore

My motor is running on 5VDC. I got the 12VDC power supply for the board and I've hooked everything up. And...

I got the same results. I made sure to line up all the +/- and used a voltmeter to check the power supply. There's nothing going to the relay.


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## hpropman

Otaku said:


> FWIW, the coffin I built is using 5VDC on the motor. I liked the slower action, but it would be cool if you could use 12VDC on the opening 1/2 rotation so you get the startle effect, then close the lid slowly.


You can do that with a controller (prop1/2/SX, picaxe) and a pair of relays one to control the 12 volts and one to control the 5 volts. or you might be able to modify your controller board with a flip flop to control the 2 relays.


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## hpropman

DarkLore said:


> My motor is running on 5VDC. I got the 12VDC power supply for the board and I've hooked everything up. And...
> 
> I got the same results. I made sure to line up all the +/- and used a voltmeter to check the power supply. There's nothing going to the relay.


Did you do a continuity test on the board traces to make sure that you do not have a broken trace (easily fixed with a little solder if you find one). Otherwise keep following the power on the board with the meter to see where it stops and you should have your answer. start at the relay and work back. If the relay is getting power unsolder the relay and test it outside the circuit you might have a bad relay. Radio shack has a great desoldering iron that will make your life easier.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731

This works great been using one for years. I even have a 2nd one in case they ever discontinue it.


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## Otaku

Originally Posted by DarkLore 
My motor is running on 5VDC. I got the 12VDC power supply for the board and I've hooked everything up. And...

I got the same results. I made sure to line up all the +/- and used a voltmeter to check the power supply. There's nothing going to the relay.


Odd. Is the 5 volt regulator installed correctly? On my board the tab is facing away from the 12VDC input terminal block. Also, try a test of the opto by placing a flat piece of anything in front of the sensor (about .200" away) and listen for the relay to click.


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## DarkLore

Otaku - I'll PM you a link to photos. Note the image below. Both of our boards match (except the noted resistor). But in the documents, you show different versions of the board. Presumably before the simple circuits version was produced.


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## DarkLore

hpropman said:


> Did you do a continuity test on the board traces to make sure that you do not have a broken trace (easily fixed with a little solder if you find one). Otherwise keep following the power on the board with the meter to see where it stops and you should have your answer. start at the relay and work back. If the relay is getting power unsolder the relay and test it outside the circuit you might have a bad relay. Radio shack has a great desoldering iron that will make your life easier.
> 
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731
> 
> This works great been using one for years. I even have a 2nd one in case they ever discontinue it.


Yes...I did a continuity test. I couldn't find any connection that didn't audable. As far as tracing back the power...I don't know what I can touch when its powered up....therefore...I haven't. I have checked the power at the relay connections....there isn't any.


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## DarkLore

In the image shown, [DarkLore] the red and black at the top, go to a 9v battery connector...used as a trigger. The black wires at the top right go to the relay.


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## bradbaum

Are you having the same problem I had with the motor running continuously?

My issue was the power supply I was using, It was not regulated enough on the +12 output. Once I figured this out, and put a +12v regulator in front board, the board quit working. what had happened then was that the +12 was now too low of voltage for the +5v regulator on the board to work correctly. I added the +12v after the +5v and everything started working correctly.

You may also be able to solve the problem by using a +14v or so well regulated power supply.

My other issue is while I was trouble shooting, I had the board out in my shop - I was looking for a 20K resistor, and my 2 year old pick up my hammer and started hammering on my board. I was able to repair the damage with some extra wires on the back side of the board. I also used the leads from the +12v regulator to repair it as well.

BTW - I used 2 10K resistors in series instead of a 20K, because I couldn't find a 20K in my stock of resistors.

I have been looking at how to mount the motor in the coffin this weekend, when the 2 year old is napping. I have the same guy Otaku used in his coffin, but he doesn't seem to fit quite right in the coffin I bought off of Craigslist.

Coffin :: front of board after 2yr old attack picture by bradbaum - Photobucket

Coffin :: back of board after 2yr old attack picture by bradbaum - Photobucket

Coffin :: Coffin w/ too small guy picture by bradbaum - Photobucket


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## DarkLore

bradbaum said:


> Are you having the same problem I had with the motor running continuously?
> 
> My issue was the power supply I was using, It was not regulated enough on the +12 output. Once I figured this out, and put a +12v regulator in front board, the board quit working. what had happened then was that the +12 was now too low of voltage for the +5v regulator on the board to work correctly. I added the +12v after the +5v and everything started working correctly.
> 
> You may also be able to solve the problem by using a +14v or so well regulated power supply.
> 
> My other issue is while I was trouble shooting, I had the board out in my shop - I was looking for a 20K resistor, and my 2 year old pick up my hammer and started hammering on my board. I was able to repair the damage with some extra wires on the back side of the board. I also used the leads from the +12v regulator to repair it as well.
> 
> BTW - I used 2 10K resistors in series instead of a 20K, because I couldn't find a 20K in my stock of resistors.
> 
> I have been looking at how to mount the motor in the coffin this weekend, when the 2 year old is napping. I have the same guy Otaku used in his coffin, but he doesn't seem to fit quite right in the coffin I bought off of Craigslist.
> 
> http://s10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/bradbaum/Coffin/?action=view&current=IMG_0094.jpg
> 
> http://s10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/bradbaum/Coffin/?action=view&current=IMG_0095.jpg
> 
> http://s10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/bradbaum/Coffin/?action=view&current=IMG_0096.jpg


Give a child a hammer, the world becomes a nail. When I was three, I put a hammer through a very large and expensive painting. My oldest sister saw my mothers face, grabbed me and locked us both in the bathroom. As the story goes...we were there for hours as my mother tried to hammer her way in.

Yes...same problem that the board goes continually. It's pausing at the sensor...but just enough to know it sees the sensor.

I made my coffin...um....well.....large enough to fit my ex-wife. 

Due to the increased size...I'd guess my door is much larger than Otaku's. To make sure it can easily open the door...my positioning is much different. Right now, the motor is out of it while I work on the board. I will send pics when I remount it.


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## hpropman

I am confused. Darklore is your board not working at all or is it working just not stopping? Some things to test the voltage coming out of the the 7805 Regulator the large metal plate on the back of the 7805 (or any regulator) is ground, place your black lead from your meter here (set meter to measure DC voltage all voltage measurements can be made with the black lead clipped here) now from the picture above the regulator is the chip in the lower right corner. The pin towards the edge of the board the bottom pin of the three in the picture, the middle pin is the ground (same as the plate on the back of the chip) the top pin the one close to the middle of the board is the output pin. if you place the red lead from the meter on the input pin the voltage should read a least 7.5 volts (7.5 to 16 volts is fine) now move the red lead from you meter to the output pin it should read from 4.8 to 5.3 volts. If you are getting these voltages from the 7805 regulator then it is working fine. If the voltage on the output pin is higher then 5 volts (5.5 to 8 volts) then the regulator may not have a good ground. Check the solder joint on the middle pin it may not be making good contact. This happened to me once, drove me crazy. Also make sure that the trigger pins are not shorted. I have been looking at the schematic to try and see what else can be wrong. Look at all the solder joints closely if any look funny re melt them and add a drop of solder. we will find the problem it may just take some time.


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## DarkLore

The board is working...but somehow not synced right. Otaku has been patiently assisting me via pm. It appears that the bar I used was too skinnny. I fabricated another bar and now I think I'm very close.

I'm looking at it now. The motor is continuously running as I type. When I trigger it....the motor stops at the next sensor event. Pauses 10 seconds at the top, goes 180, then pauses 3 seconds at the bottom. The continues an infinite rotation until triggered again.


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## DarkLore

I mentioned that due to my coffin size, I am aligning the wiper motor differently. I wasn't sure how much lift was required and I wanted to maximize the lift. Therefore...my attachment is a little out from the hinge and the motor swing will come across the corpse. I don't think my corpse will mind.










My hinges are also a bit different. They attach inside the door instead of outside.


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## CoolDJTV

Very cool!
Great Job!


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## Onewish1

way too cool


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## skidrow

This is very cool - but I am curious as to why you chose a wiper motor for this rather than some kind of linear actuator?

Skid


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## Otaku

Thanks, skidrow and Onewish1 , much appreciated. The reason for the wiper motor was the cost. Linear actuators are pricey - I did want to use one originally, but couldn't find one that met my specs at a reasonable price. The motor is more of a "brute force" approach, but is very reliable. BTW, the board has now been completely re-designed and de-bugged and is working perfectly.


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