# Air Brushing



## SuperCreep31 (Nov 22, 2009)

So i just got an air brushing kit and I have no idea if there is a certain paint i have to use or what. Can I use watered down acrylic paint? And is there a paint that you guys recommend? Thanks


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## Dark Lord (Jul 25, 2007)

What gun / kit did you get & what are you planing to paint with it ?

You can use any of acrylic paints in the small bottles from Micheal's art store & they're cheap. You can pretty much use any type of paint, just have to thin it down correctly. I use Createx AutoAir acrylics, FW acrylic inks, one shot oil base & House of Color urethane's mostly. 

1-The thing to remember is CLEAN your airbrush thoroughly, any dried acrylics ( or any paint ) left in the gun will ruin it. 

2-spray in a well vented area ( & wear a spray mask like a 3M respirator-health safety always )

3-have fun !!

Always around if you need help with airbrushing questions as there are several others here that can help also.


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## SuperCreep31 (Nov 22, 2009)

i just got a cheap air brushing kit from Harbor Freight and if I like it I will buy something better. Right now I'm just testing what I've got.


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## Devils Chariot (May 23, 2007)

hey super creep! Airbrushing can be super frustrating if you don't have good paints.

Technically anything you can thin out can be sprayed, but you wont always like how it works and sometimes it will become much less durable.

Take the the easy route. Start of with paints formulated for airbrushing. All of these are quality established brands and you should find one of them at your local art store that sells airbrushes.

Badger - I think Badger still has the best covering/ most workable white airbrush paint.
Medea ComArt
Createx
Golden - all thier colors are great EXCEPT white. I have no idea whats wrong with these guys. Their white is a transparent white.

Don't buy every color. If you want to start easy get these colors:

White
Black (I use waterproof india ink, try that and save some money)
Sepia (or raw umber)
Darker green
Crimson red

These colors will cover most halloween props (ie. zombies, vampires, etc.)

I have been airbrushing for 20+ years. If you have any question feel free to send me a message.


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## Dixie (Feb 18, 2009)

Killer post, DC.... good information for all of us looking to learn.


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## haunted canuck (Feb 8, 2009)

I dont know about these cheep ones from harbour freight if its not a dual action air brush you'll probably want to blow your brains out now.. the single action airbrushes which Im guessing this is since you said cheep will cause allot of frustration, if you intend on doing air brushing consider getting a dual action air brush they are easier to use and once you get the hang of them less brain damage.. if its single action they are very tricky especially with acrillic paints not impossible ,good luck with your ney toy youll want a better one for sure


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## SuperCreep31 (Nov 22, 2009)

I know I have very cheap one and haunted canuck, your probably right on getting a better one... im just messing around right now... here is the link to the airbrush that I got. http://www.harborfreight.com/airbrush-kit-47791.html Any thoughts? Thanks for everyone's help. I really appreciate people taking the time to help out.


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## Dark Lord (Jul 25, 2007)

Ya thats a cheapy single action. As DC posted, best to use quality paints for airbrushing. Been ABing for 30+ years myself & having the proper paint & a good gun makes a world of difference. My personal arsenal AB's are Iwata Micron C & SB custom, HP-C, HP-B, HP-SB & my trusty BCS's. They cost, but a world of difference with less aggravations. Paasches & Badgers dual action are great for starters to get the hang of it. I still have my 1st Paasche ( sentimental I guess, LoL ). 

We're here for any of you


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## Devils Chariot (May 23, 2007)

I also use Iwata. I have an HP-C (twenty years old) , and HP-BC (15 years old), and one of the eclipse series (looks like an hp-c) (for enamels).

The airbrush looks like a rip off of a Badger single action. BUT it's a ripoff of the only single action I like. It's a workhorse and easy to clean. You'll fing mask painters and efx guys using this for general shading and putting on heavy paints. It's really the perfect beginners brush.


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## SoCal Scare (Aug 3, 2007)

Using a single action is definitely a much more frustrating way to start. Good Brushes can be found really inexpensively through online sites so its hard to justify the money spent on a single action. I have been using an eclipse and dagger for some time now and love them both. Air brushing is a fun hobby and is always evolving so there are always new tricks to try. Go to airbrushtricks.com and watch some of his videos they el get you started doing easy techniques that you can build off of.


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## playfx (Mar 10, 2007)

Alot of good info here, just make sure to practice and not give up, I've seen guys spend hundreds of dollars on airbrush kits and after just a few times playing with it give it up without really putting any time into it.....so practice at it and have fun.
As far as paints go everyone has their pick, what one likes might not be good for you so you'll have to play around and find whats right for you. I shoot watercolors, FW inks, createx acrylics most of the time and still use my paasche VL for most stuff.


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## Lynn (Jan 10, 2008)

And remember when thinning paint for an airbrush... mix, mix, mix. Cant overdo this step. If you have any lumps it will be clogged!


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## Allen H (Feb 13, 2010)

I wrote an article awhile back about airbrush make up and it was posted online, so here it is, I hope it helps.
http://www.hauntersdigest.com/2010/...es-from-stiltbeast-studios-owner-allen-hopps/


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## niblique71 (Dec 2, 2009)

I saw this post a while back. I had Just bought an airbrush and haven't used it yet. Some of you have posted brand names for paints (Thank you). But I want to make sure that whatever I use is suitable for outdoor use. Are all of the brands mentioned rainproof after drying?? I don't want to have to "Seal" my props afterwards. I would assume that all T-shirt paints are waterproof?

For me specific brands that fit this criteria are more useful to me than a list of prefferred paints. I always like to get the best tools first since it's almost always more costly in time and money to go cheap. And then I learn very little. 

It's kinda like playing a guitar or driving a car. We all started out with Junkers and were amazed at the difference when we got a quailty instrument or car for the first time.

Oh... And what are the best "air brush" Cleaners for various types of paints?? I want to buy an assortment of cleaners to cover all the bases.


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## Sawtooth Jack (Apr 9, 2011)

I don't know if anyone's mentioned it yet, but keep a nice ultra fine grit sandpaper on hand to clean your needles and help keep them straight and sharp if they get bent.


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## fontgeek (Jul 24, 2006)

Sawtooth Jack said:


> I don't know if anyone's mentioned it yet, but keep a nice ultra fine grit sandpaper on hand to clean your needles and help keep them straight and sharp if they get bent.


Avoid those habits like the plague.
Using sandpaper to "Polish" your needle or "fix" a bent tip means you are changing the needle's shape. That shape needs to fit smoothly and cleanly to the interior of the fluid nozzle for the airbrush to work properly.

A suggestion for all who are interested in airbrushing, join a forum like AirbrushTechnique.com that's focussed on airbrushing. While the conversations there may not be aimed at doing props and makeup for haunts the basic skills are the same, and the depth of knowledge is a great help for any or all who need or want it.

For paints that will be outdoors for extended periods of time you might look at paints like One-Shot Lettering Enamel. They don't need to be clear coated or protected, they can be brushed, sponged, sprayed, etc.
Use the proper solvents and reducers/thinners and wear the proper protective gear.

If your stuff is going to see limited exposure to the elements (weather, touching/abuse, etc.) then acrylics on their own may do just fine for you. Most acrylics clean up with water and can often be reduced using just water too.

The general rule for spraying anything through an airbrush is "if it's a liquid you can spray it". You may need to reduce (thin) it down a bit to get it to spray though. Always make sure your paint is well mixed, and strained *BEFORE* it goes into your airbrush. Little chunks of paint or debris can wreak havoc on you and your airbrush.

Single action brushes can do wonders, for those that have to do repetitive work, or who don't have the motor control to work a double action trigger they are a major help. Think of them as a refillable spray can where you can set and leave the control on how much paint gets sprayed out. Kind of a spray can on steroids.

I've been air brushing since the early 1970's, and teaching it since the 1980's.


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## Sawtooth Jack (Apr 9, 2011)

fontgeek said:


> Avoid those habits like the plague.
> Using sandpaper to "Polish" your needle or "fix" a bent tip means you are changing the needle's shape. That shape needs to fit smoothly and cleanly to the interior of the fluid nozzle for the airbrush to work properly.


I understand the care needed to maintain the fit in the fluid nozzle, but I have to politely disagree with you. I'm not saying it's ideal for use everyday and you can make your needle worse if you don't have a steady hand, but what I'm recommending actually means you are putting the original shape back into an _already_ bent and useless needle tip. I airbrushed for a few years myself and my teacher (yes I learned this tip from a professional) was an auto re-toucher and product illustrator from the days when an airbrush was still used for those purposes. A needle tip is bound to get bent by a novice during cleaning, and buying a replacement is not always an option when working with a budget (my airbrushes and nozzles lasted years, and the sandpaper trick kept me and many other classmates from having to purchase new needles after a mishap). If your needle tip is that far out of whack, get a new one for the sake of your nozzle health.

*EDIT:* And just to clarify, I'm not suggesting you sand the tip of your needle flat on one side with a heavy-gauge sandpaper. The technique we were taught was to take a polishing-grade sandpaper and lay it flat, then while holding the needle (with a bent tip) gently between thumb and forefinger, _LIGHTLY_ drag it so the tip trails across the paper once or twice while twirling the needle between your finger tips. It either works or it doesn't depending on your skill, so never put a damaged needle back into the nozzle or you'll be replacing that too.


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## fontgeek (Jul 24, 2006)

As soon as you sand your needle you are changing it's shape.
The "it either works or it doesn't" isn't true. You can get some use out of it with your sanded needle, but it won't be the same shape or performance you had originally.
Spray with the needle cap or crown cap on the brush. It's there to protect the needle from damage.
Poorly shaped needles can damage the fluid nozzle/tip, especially if you "seat" the needle. If you can't straighten the needle out using the coins trick or something hard and a smooth, glass surface, and you absolutely have to keep on airbrushing NOW, then you might try the sand paper trick, but that should be an absolute last resort. Be prepared to buy a new needle and nozzle in the near future though. Flat sides and edges on the needles can and often do cut or gouge grooves into the interior of the fluid nozzle when the needle is inserted and seated.
I'm one of those illustrators from those days. LOL


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