# Tunic Tutorial - Instructions Only



## Ms. Wicked

I've started a separate thread for the actual tutorial and instructions that I post.

I've done this to keep the actual tutorial from getting buried/lost in the thread discussion. This will undoubtedly be a long thread, which is GREAT! 

*Please keep all discussion and questions in the original thread*

here http://www.hauntforum.com/showthread.php?t=14919

I've also copied the first set of instructions into the beginning of this thread so it is complete, start to finish.


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## Ms. Wicked

OK, I've taken a picture of the back of the pattern envelope (at bottom of post).

The writing in the pic is a bit small, so it may be helpful to actually have your pattern on hand or to print off this post.

Starting from the top to the bottom, here's a step by step of what everything means:

*2853* - This is obviously the pattern number, followed by a description. A "View" is a variation of the garment/pattern. Each view is described individually and pictured (or illustrated) on the front of the envelope. This pattern has seven different Views (magician, witch, Red Riding Hood, etc.) The front of the envelope labels each view with a letter next to the picture.

In our case, we are making the tunic/cloak which is View F.

*Suggested Fabrics:* Again, this is self explanatory, but extremely important. The recommended fabric type for each view is outlined.

Since we are making View F, look to see what fabrics are recommended. This is very important because fabrics have different ways of handling, draping and sewing. I cannot express the importance of using the correct type of fabric.

For our project, (Views A thru F): The suggested fabrics are Cotton and Cotton Blends, Satin, Polished Cotton and Chintz. In other words, woven fabrics, not knits or stretch. Anything that is knit will stretch, making sewing difficult and the end product will not hang properly. Generally woven fabrics have no stretch. Think of a cotton shirt vs. a t-shirt.

*Body Measurements*: This section helps you determine which size to make based on your body measurements (or in our case, perhaps your prop! lol). For this pattern, the only measurement required is chest size. There is a chart that shows the size and measurements.

Once you know which size you are making, you will be able to determine the amount of fabric required.

*View F - Tunic*. You will then see a chart showing a box with all of the different Views with lots of numbers. Go down to "View F - Tunic".

Once you are looking in the *View F - Tunic *box, you will see that it is a chart. The chart informs the sewer how much fabric is needed based on what size you are making and the width of fabric. The size follows down from the Body Measurement section.

FYI, fabric is made in various widths. The most common are 45" and 58"/60", but sometimes it comes in other widths. This pattern shows widths of 45" and 60". Following across to the right, there are numbers that look like 5 1/4, 5, 1/2, etc. Those numbers are the amount of fabric you need to purchase, based on which size you make (follow up to Body Measurement).

For example, if I were going to make a size Large and my fabric is 45" in width, I will need to purchase 5 7/8 yards of fabric.

Of course, you won't know what width fabric you have until you purchase or measure your fabric. At the store, fabric is wrapped on a piece of cardboard and is called a bolt. On the end of the bolt, the width is indicated, along with content (cotton, wool, etc.). If you are unsure, ask a sales person for assistance. (If you already have fabric and don't know how to measure it's width, let me know).

*Notions*: These are all of the supplies other than fabric that you will need for your garment, such as zippers, buttons, etc. Look for View F and the list of supplies will follow. In this case, it's 1 yard of 5/8" ribbon (this is for the tie closure at the neck) and a tassle for the hood, which is optional.

Tip: Sometimes it's helpful to circle in pencil the things that pertain to the View and size you are making. There is so much info, you don't want to accidently get the wrong amount because you glanced at the wrong info. 

This may seem like a lot of info to digest if you've never sewn. But really, it's not difficult. Compare what I've written here to the back of the envelope and it should make sense. Bring your pattern to the fabric store and ask for assistance if need be.

If something doesn't make sense, let me know. Feel free also to pm me so that I can give those who are participating my telephone number.

Let's aim to have our fabric in two weeks, Friday March 20th. Unless, everybody wants to move at a faster pace, let me know. I want to allow enough time, but work at a pace that works for everybody!

Here is a picture of the envelope back.


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## Ms. Wicked

A bolt of fabric:










The end of bolt, with width size, fabric content, washing instructions, etc. Amongst other things, you can see that this fabric is 58" in width (058 IN) and is 100% wool.


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## Ms. Wicked

OK, we're ready to move to the next steps:

1) Preparing Fabric

2) Instructions & Cutting Tissue Pattern Pieces

*Preparing Fabric*

It's always recommended to prepare your fabric for the best results. This usually includes washing and ironing it. By doing so, you are pre-shrinking the fabric. You are also making sure that the fabric will be smooth and flat when cutting/sewing; this ensures that the pieces are cut accurately and will piece together properly when sewing.

Nobody wants to go through all of the work only for an item to ultimately shrink/pucker or to be frustrated because pieces don't match up properly. Think of it as laying a good foundation.

Fabric should be washed according to the fabric's recommended care or in the same manner as it will be laundered when the garment is completed. If you plan to machine wash and dry the garment, machine wash and dry the fabric. If you plan to dry clean the garment, then dry clean the fabric.

Prior to washing, a zig-zag stitch should be used on the cut ends of the fabric to prevent fraying. (The long, bound ends of fabric are called the selvages.) In the photo below, you can see where I used white thread to zigzag the cut end:










Having said ALL OF THAT, I personally wouldn't wash fabric ahead of time for a garment that will be used for a prop!!! So if you plan to use this tunic for a prop, don't bother. If this tunic will be a costume you plan to wash in the future, then wash it as described. But regardless of whether you wash or not, be sure to still iron the fabric.

*Instructions & Cutting the Tissue Pattern Pieces*

Pull out the contents of the envelope. You'll find a couple of things: the Instruction Sheets; also wad of folded tissue sheets, which have all of the pattern pieces printed on them.

There are three instruction sheets for this pattern (total of six pages, printed on both sides and numbered). The sheets include instructions for all of the Views included in the envelope.

Below is a photo of Page 1 of the instructions. It shows front and back illustrations of all of the Views. Below the illustrations are drawings of each pattern piece that is used for each View, with a written description of what each piece is. We are making Tunic F.










When you look to the right of these illustrations you will see a section called Cutting Layouts. We will talk more about this in a next step; however for now, look at *F TUNIC*. It states that this costume will use pieces 2, 4 and 5. For easy reference, circle this layout with a pen or pencil.










Next, carefully unfold the "wad" of tissue pieces. There are several, large sheets of tissue folded into each other that require some pulling apart. Take care not to tear them. When unfolded, you will see that the pattern pieces are randomly printed on these large sheets. You need to hunt out pieces 2, 4 and 5 and cut them out IN THE SIZE YOU WANT TO MAKE. The piece number and description is written inside the piece. (see pic below) (To determine size, refer to my first tutorial post that explains how to read the back of the envelope).

You will see that for each piece, there are lots of lines that reference S, M, L or XL. Cut out on the line for the size you require. Take care around corners and curves because often, the lines overlap. Important: on piece 4, you will see two sets of lines. This piece is used for the front and back of the tunic; the upper lines are for the back neckline, the lower lines are the front neckline. Cut at the upper lines and I'll explain what to do when we actually cut fabric at a later date. See pic below.



















Finally, after the tissue pieces are cut, on a low iron, press out the folds and creases from the tissue. The pattern pieces need to be flat; folds and creases distort cutting and could cause problems with matching seams later...

Phew! It seems like a lot, but it's really not bad. It just looks like a lot when all typed out!

Let's give everybody a week to do this; we'll proceed to the next step next Tuesday, March 30. I will then post instructions for how to layout the pattern on the fabric and cutting the fabric.

Remember to post questions and discussions on the original thread here: http://www.hauntforum.com/showthread.php?t=14919


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## Ms. Wicked

OK - Here's the next step: *Layout and Cutting Fabric*

On a big surface, such as a large table or floor (if you don't have a large table), you will need to lay down your fabric.

Look at your instruction sheet and refer to the layout section for "Tunic F". That is the layout that you will follow.










You will see the diagram shows the following: which pieces are used for Tunic F, the width of fabric, a black rectangle (which represents the fabric) and the pattern pieces on top of the fabric. It also has the words "selvage" and "crossfold".

Selvages are the uncut, side edges as the fabric comes out of the loom. The crossfold is the fold as the fabric is folded, selvage edges on top of each other.

Here is the selvage edge of the cotton guaze I'm using for this project:










Lay out your fabric on your table (or floor) exactly as shown in the diagram. Be sure to have the RIGHT SIDES OF THE FABRIC TOGETHER. In otherwords, the right sides of the fabric are face to face on the inside; the wrong side of the fabric is on out the outside.

Make sure that your selvages are lined up and that your fabric is smooth: no wrinkles, bubbles or waves. It's important to keep the fabric from distorting.

(*If you have fabric that has a one way design, or something like velvet where the pile runs in one direction, it is considered "with nap". You will have to lay out and cut out differently if your fabric has nap. I'm assuming that nobody has this type of fabric for this project. If you do, or are in question, please let me know so that I can post the proper instructions!!!)

Next, place the pattern pieces on top of the fabric as indicated in the diagram. Some pattern pieces are placed with printed side up, others printed side down. They are distinguished with lines as shown in the instructions here:










Look at your pattern pieces. You will see that they have lines with arrows on the end that say "grainline". The grainline are the lengthwise threads that run through fabric. They run parallel to the selvage edge.










It is important when laying out that the grainlines run parallel to the selage edge. If they are not, a garment may not hang properly and look wonky.

To assure that the grainline is straight, use a tape measure and measure from the selvage to the grainline, one end to the other. Don't eye it; they can deceive you!


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## Ms. Wicked

The hood piece is placed on the crossfold, printed side down. Look at the pattern piece and layout instructions to see what direction it is placed.










Once you have all of your pieces laid out and straight and know that they fit, you pin the tissue pattern to the fabric, through both thicknesses.

Pin on one corner and smooth your hand diagonally across the pattern piece to eliminate any puckers. Then pin and repeat this as you work around the pattern piece.










After all of your pieces are pinned in place, you can start cutting.

You will notice that pieces have triangular notches. Cut a triangular notche outward in each place you see one as you cut. This is very important as the notches indicate places to match pieces together as they are seamed!!! Some notches are a single notch, some are double.










Don't forget that piece 4 is both the front AND back for this tunic. Cut the back at the higher lines, and the front at the lower lines.










Finally, after the pieces are cut, you will see that the pattern pieces also have circles in various spots. These circles need to be marked. The easiest way is to use tailor's chalk. You can also use a needle to sew in a piece of thread, or use a pin to mark the dot.

These dots are used to either match pieces together at seams (such as at the sleeves) or to mark placement of something, such as the ties at the neckline.










Remember when cutting, it's best to use fabric shears. Shears are on an angle so that cutting doesn't pull and distort the fabric. Also, scissors used on other things such as paper do not cut fabric well.

Be sure to be careful and cut through both pieces/sides of the fabric! Depending upon what kind of fabric you are using, some fabrics have a tendency to slide more than others.

Most importantly, HAVE FUN! YOU ARE ON YOUR WAY to making a gorgeous, quality HAND MADE tunic!!!!!!

Let me know if you have any questions. Let's make the deadline for this step next Thursday, April 16. I will then post instructions for the next steps when we'll actually start sewing!!!!!!

Woo Hoo!


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## Ms. Wicked

OK - As promised, here are the next steps.

We are actually going to begin sewing!!!! We will do the front center seam, the back center seam and the two shoulder seams.

Go to page 4 in the instructions. This is where the instructions for Tunic F begin. The first three illustrations that follow are for the steps described above.










The first step is to seam the center front. *Be sure that you use the pieces that have the lower, front neckline cut into it (as described in the previous instructions).

You will need to place the two front pieces on top of each other RIGHT SIDES of fabric TOGETHER (outside). The wrong side (inside) will be on the top and bottom. The illustrations in instructions show the right side of fabric as shaded and the wrong side as white.

Be sure to line up the center front edge, matching the dot (which you should have marked) and the notches.










Pin the entire edge, from the dot to the bottom. The dot marks the spot in the center front where there is an opening.










Bring your pinned pieces to the sewing machine to begin sewing.

You will notice that there is a metal plate on your sewing machine with numbers and lines. These lines are guides to help you know where to sew.










Most patterns call for a 5/8" seam. If it is different, the instructions will tell you so. In this pattern, all seams are 5/8". Therefore, you need to line up the edge of your fabric with the line that says 5/8". (If you have a European machine such as a Viking, it is in metric. 5/8" is just past the 10mm mark.)

Bring your fabric to the machine and place the edge under the foot. Line up the sides along the 5/8" mark. The top edge should be just behind where the needle will hit.










Bring the presser foot down and then your needle down piercing the fabric. When working with big pieces of fabric, try to keep all of your fabric as smooth as possible. If necessary, move a table or totes to your left to keep fabric from slipping.

By keeping the fabric from pulling and slipping, it will be easier to keep your fabric straight and lined up while sewing.

Sew two or three stitches. Stop, then reverse and make two backwards stitches. This "locks" the stitching. Resume to "forward" and stitch your entire seam. At the bottom, reverse two stitches again to lock that end of stitching.

*Tip. To keep your stitching straight, don't look directly at the needle. Watch the edge of the fabric along the 5/8" line on the plate. It's kind of like driving, you watch the road ahead instead of the sides of the road.


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## Ms. Wicked

After your seam is sewn, you will need to "finish" your seam. This keeps the fabric stable and prevents fraying. There are many ways to finish seams, depending upon the garment and type of fabric.

However for this project, we will use the most basic type of seam finish, trimming with pinking shears. Pinking shears are scissors with a zig-zag edge.

Trim about 1/8-1/4" off of the edge, to the right of where you stitched.










After you have trimmed, you will need to press open the seam from both the wrong (inside) and right (outside) sides of the fabric. This sets the stitching into the fabric and keeps the seamline smooth.

*Tip: Be sure to test a small piece of your fabric PRIOR to pressing with a hot iron. You don't want to scorch your fabric!

Your pressed seam will look like this.










After you finish this, you need to proceed in the instructions to the next step. This is sewing the center back and it is done the same as the front. HOWEVER, start sewing your seam all the way at the top edge (back neckline) instead of lower down as in the front.

Trim and press your seams in the same way.

Then proceed to the third step which is seaming the shoulders.

Take the front and back tunic pieces and lay them on top of each other, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. Line up the shoulders, matching the edges and the notch. Pin and sew. Repeat for the second shoulder... trim and press your seams.

When you've completed it, you will see it begin to resemble a garment, even though the sides are not yet sewn!










We'll leave it here until next Sunday, April 26, when we will proceed to the sleeves and side seams!

Let me know if you have any questions!!!!!!


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## Ms. Wicked

Here are the Next Steps:

*Sewing on Sleeve and Hood*

The next step in the instructions is for attaching the sleeves.

Take one sleeve piece prepare to attach to the tunic side. Spread the tunic on a large surface so that you can lay the shoulder seam area flat.

With right sides (outside) of the tunic and sleeve together, line up the top of sleeve with the top of shoulder. Match the dot of the sleeve with the shoulder seam. Match the notch on the sleeve to the notch on the front tunic. Line up the sleeve edge to the tunic edge.



















Pin everything in place. Take to the sewing machine and sew the 5/8" seam. **Do not sew over pins. Remove pins as you sew. Sewing over pins can cause damage to your machine, break needles/pins and cause pieces of a broken pin to shoot out. You DO NOT want these to shoot into your eye!

Repeat for second sleeve. Then trim the seam allowance as in the previous steps and press open with an iron.

Next you need to jump to the instructions that say *"Hood - View F"* (The next four illustrations are for different versions.)










Next is sewing on the hood. The first thing you will see in the instructions is to stay stitch 1/2" from the neck edge. Stay stitching is a row of straight stitching that is used on curved edges to prevent stretching.

After you stay stitch, clip little triangular notches (as illustrated) around the neckline edge. This will "open up" the curve of the neckline.

Next, pin and sew the 5/8" seam of the center back hood.










Trim seam allowance and press open seam. You always trim and press seams as you go along!

Run a line of long stitches along bottom edge of hood as illustrated. If the hood neckline is bigger than the tunic neckline, the stitching on the hood can be pulled up to "ease" the hood to the tunic so that they match.

Bring the hood to the tunic and pin the hood to it along the necklines, right sides (outside) together. Match the center back seams and front edges. The dots on the hood are to match the shoulder seams.










Stitch the seam. Be VERY careful here to keep your tunic and hood smooth. By keeping it smooth, you will prevent the fabric from bunching and catching a pleat in your stitching. It pays to go slowly, stopping to smooth along the way.

Stitch again 1/4 in (towards the edge) of your seam to reinforce. Trim and press seam.

We'll leave it here and continue next week with adding the ribbon ties and hemming the hood and front opening.

Look for the next set of instructions in one week, Monday, May 4.

And PLEASE post any questions or pictures. It's been so quiet on this thread. Is everybody keeping up? Let me know if the pace is too fast or slow.


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## Ms. Wicked

Next steps are: attaching neck ties, narrow hemming hood and neck opening and side seams.

First, the neck ties must be attached prior to hemming the hood and neck opening. You should have purchased 1 yard of 5/8" ribbon. Cut the piece in half, so that you have two, equal 1/2 yard pieces.

Go the illustration in the instructions:










Line up the edge of the ribbon on top of the edge of the fabric, just below the hood seam, as illustrated in the instructions and in my picture below. Pin in place, then baste about 1/2" from the edge. Basting is temporary stitching used to hold pieces in place.










Next you will need to make a narrow hem that goes all the way around the hood and neckline. To make a narrow hem, you fold the edge of fabric 1/4" to the wrong (inside) of the fabric, then fold 1/4" again. Press (iron) the edge smooth and pin to hold in place.

By folding twice, you are completely concealing the raw edge.

Since it is difficult to see this in the black fabric I'm using, here is a good tutorial that shows how: http://chickpeastudio.typepad.com/chickpea_sewing_studio/narrow-hem-tutorial.html

Note that the edges of the ties will be folded under with the fabric. When you get to the center front seam, keep the seam flat (pin a couple inches below to keep in place).










My starting point to sew was just below the tie.

Sew to about 1 cm below the meeting point of the center seam. Then turn the fabric and sew directly across the seam to where you will turn the fabric again to continue sewing along the edge. You will end where you started sewing.

Next are the side seams, which are also the bottom sleeve seams.

As illustrated, place the front and back RIGHT sides of the tunic together, lining up the side and underarm sleeve seams. It will curve under the arms. Match the notches, edges and arm seam. Pin in place.










Sew one long seam from top to bottom. Reinforce the underarm seam by stitching just inside (towards the edge) of original stitching. Repeat on other side. Clip and press seams.


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## Ms. Wicked

All that is left now are the hems for the bottom and the sleeves. Your tunic should now very much resemble the finished garment. The pictures below are slightly distorted as I stuck a wig head on top of my dress form. But you get the idea.



















The next tutorial for hemming will be the last!


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## Ms. Wicked

Woo Hoo - the Final Steps: Hemming the sleeves and bottom.

Go to the instruction sheet that shows the steps for hemming.










Turn the tunic inside out. Measure 1 1/4" from the sleeve edge. This is where you will press up (fold) around the sleeve. I straight stitched around at this point. It helps press a neat, straight line.

Measure 1 1/4"









Press at 1 1/4" (with or without straight stitching around this point)









After pressing, open out the crease (unfold/lay flat again). You now want to press the edge again, only 1/4" from the edge. After doing this, both pressed edges are re-folded. The 1/4" edge means there are no raw edges on the inside.










Turn right side out. Pin folded hem into place and straight stitch around the sleeve, close the 1/4" fold line.










Repeat on the other sleeve.

Once the sleeves are finished, you do the same steps for the bottom hem.

However, since the bottom edge is full, you add one additional step: straight stitch 1/4" from the bottom edge with a long basting stitch (adjust your stitch length longer on your machine). After pressing the hem up 1 1/4", pull the straight stitching (that is 1/4" from the edge) to take out the fullness. By pulling the thread, the excess fabric on the bottom "tightens up". Pull until the fullness matches that of the tunic.

Then repeat with pressing under 1/4", folding hem, pinning hem and stitching.

And that, my friends, IS IT!!!

I hope that everybody has found this tutorial informative and helpful. I will leave it stickied for a while so that it is here for you all to refer to in the future.

As of this posting, Halloween is only 145 days away!!! Let me know if you have any questions at all!


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## Ms. Wicked




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## madmomma

For people who don't know how to sew, this task looks daunting. But it's actually quite simple (I've been sewing since I was a kid!) Hope people will follow your excellent and detailed (and very considerate, I might add) instructions and make one. It's always a good idea to have AT LEAST one of these on hand. Thanks for posting it.


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## RavensHollow

It is so wonderful of you to take the time to post all of this! I'm excited to try this out, although being a non-sewer it does look daunting. You just have to dive in right?


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