# Turning head motor



## jdubbya (Nov 6, 2005)

For those who have props with turning heads, specifically stirring witch props, what kind of motors are you using? I used scarefx's plans for mine, but apparently the motor he used is discontinued. I'd also be interested in pics of the linkage, etc.
Thanks.


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## MotelSixx (Sep 27, 2008)

I used a tabletop oscillating fan minus the blades a few years back


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## dave the dead (Jan 31, 2007)

It's hard to beat this motor for the job. Small, quiet, strong, cheap. ( ok, freight might get you if you only buy one or two, but if you get in bulk it is very reasonable)

I'll try to work up a shot of a typical linkage for you, since I was planning on setting up an example for Ironstock anyway.


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## DarkLore (Jan 25, 2009)

dave the dead said:


> It's hard to beat this motor for the job. Small, quiet, strong, cheap. ( ok, freight might get you if you only buy one or two, but if you get in bulk it is very reasonable)
> 
> I'll try to work up a shot of a typical linkage for you, since I was planning on setting up an example for Ironstock anyway.


I get an invalid link on that.


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## dflowers2 (Mar 5, 2007)

Try this Click here


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## jdubbya (Nov 6, 2005)

dave the dead said:


> It's hard to beat this motor for the job. Small, quiet, strong, cheap. ( ok, freight might get you if you only buy one or two, but if you get in bulk it is very reasonable)
> 
> I'll try to work up a shot of a typical linkage for you, since I was planning on setting up an example for Ironstock anyway.


Thanks Dave. Appreciate it. I would love to see the linkage pics. Also, any pics of how you have it mounted to the prop frame would be great.



dflowers said:


> Try this Click here


Great! Thanks. I'm assuming this is the same motor dave was talking about?


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## dynoflyer (Oct 8, 2006)

My witch also uses a small oscillating fan with the wire cage intact. I mounted it backwards with a witch mask pulled down over it. Be sure to leave the fan blades on or it'll overheat and die. Been working great during four Halloween's, so far.


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## Revenant (Mar 17, 2007)

I used one of those plastic gearbox motors Dave was talking about. I thought it had the perfect speed. Then I just wired a 12V DC wallwart to it. Cheap n' easy.


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## Scary Godmother (Oct 13, 2007)

I used a reindeer motor for my cauldron witch's turning head.


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## dave the dead (Jan 31, 2007)

I finally got time to put a set up together. The framework is 3/4 in PVC, and the neck is 1/2 inch PVC.

















and a video of the mech in action
misc pix :: headturnmech.flv video by davethedead - [email protected]@[email protected]@http://vid105.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid105.photobucket.com/albums/m240/davethedead/misc%20pix/[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@m240/davethedead/misc%20pix/headturnmech


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## Spooky1 (Aug 25, 2008)

Thanks for the video Dave, I was wondering how to do the linkage so the head would just turn side to side. I'm working on a tombstone head popper prop using the same motor (suggested by you), and I ordered extra so I'll give this a try.


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## MotelSixx (Sep 27, 2008)

Scary Godmother said:


> I used a reindeer motor for my cauldron witch's turning head.


Sometimes the answer is in plain sight. I overlooked the obvious. I am using a reindeer w/ motor to create a werewolf with its neck tilted back and head move from side to side. :googly:


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## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

Here is how I did my greeter. His heads turns at random, as well as talks and the eyes glow red fading in and out.










The servo is turning a 5/8 inch dowel attached with velcro as a servo saver.










Her you see the dowel entering the skull the PVC bearing is super smooth. a 3/4 cross with two 3/4 couplings top and bottom, then a 3/4 to 1/'2 reducer top and bottom and a short length of 1/2 PVC pipe on each end. The dowel is sanded slightly so that is rotates smoothly inside the 1/2 pvc pipe.










Here is some video of him in action.

Halloween 2008 :: Video_0039.flv video by jmalt31 - [email protected]@[email protected]@http://vidmg.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v147/jmalt31/Halloween%202008/[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@v147/jmalt31/Halloween%202008/Video_0039

Halloween 2008 :: Video_0040.flv video by jmalt31 - [email protected]@[email protected]@http://vidmg.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v147/jmalt31/Halloween%202008/[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]@v147/jmalt31/Halloween%202008/Video_0040


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## kprimm (Mar 14, 2009)

Wow Hpropman that looks great, but looks a bit complicated for me. I am planning on building a greeter for next year, i already have parts of him. I like the servo movement mech but i just cant see or understand exactly how it works.

Also have a question for dave. In your pics of the head turn linkage, what is the copper piece that hooks onto the neck? It looks like there is a slit in it for the tab to protrude out to bolt onto it, but i cant understand exactly how this part hooks on.


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## dave the dead (Jan 31, 2007)

kprimm said:


> Also have a question for dave. In your pics of the head turn linkage, what is the copper piece that hooks onto the neck? It looks like there is a slit in it for the tab to protrude out to bolt onto it, but i cant understand exactly how this part hooks on.


The copper piece is a 1/2 inch copper pipe hanger. You can find this in the plumbing dept of your local home improvement store. I have cut the tab down to about 2 inches long.


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## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

kprimm said:


> Wow Hpropman that looks great, but looks a bit complicated for me. I am planning on building a greeter for next year, i already have parts of him. I like the servo movement mech but i just cant see or understand exactly how it works.
> 
> Also have a question for dave. In your pics of the head turn linkage, what is the copper piece that hooks onto the neck? It looks like there is a slit in it for the tab to protrude out to bolt onto it, but i cant understand exactly how this part hooks on.


kprimm it looks more complicated than it really is because I have added to it over the last few years or modified the way something works. That is the reason there are so many boards on there. they could be consolidated into one or two. It is just how I made him, in stages. The head movement part is really very simple and I can help you build your greeter if you want. The servo can be controlled by any controller (prop 1/2/sx, picaxe, etc..) The movement is really smooth.


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## dave the dead (Jan 31, 2007)

pretty slick setup hpropman. I like your design of the pvc bearing. The setup on mine has quite a bit of play in it, so is a fairly sloppy movement. I like this because it makes the head turn a bit more organic...my theory in motorized animation is that any extra movment caused either by loose linkages or flexible armatures is good movement ( as long as they are still mechanically sound)


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## fritz42_male (May 5, 2009)

Wonderful job Propman. 

What skull is that? I have a Boris skull but want it for a different prop and it is very heavy to use with a head turning servo rig.


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## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

It is a blow molded skull from CVS they had them 2 years ago but have not seen them since. Bought a bunch for a buck each after Halloween. I cut the jaw open the hinge is duct tape, inside the skull is the ping pong balls, the servo, the bracket, the linkage, and the board that controls the fading eyes. The dowel goes to the top of the head where it is attached to the skull with a small L bracket and some screws. If you look at the pictures and video from my website you can see more of them on the fence post. It might handle a boris skull there is hardly any weight on the servo. the weight of the skull is resting on the top of the PVC bearing (short lenght of 1/2 PVC pipe). If not you can always get a bigger servo. There are some powerful servos out there.


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## fritz42_male (May 5, 2009)

Thanks for the info. Yes I have noticed some powerful servos - in particular some of the digital ones seem to have higher torque levels as well.

When you say blow - molded do you mean like a Blucky in polypropolene or pollyputthekettleon or whatever? I picked up some nice hard foam skulls last year and was tempted to try and hack these around.

Could I get your Picaxe fading eyes code please? It would save me from reinventing the wheel.


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## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

Yes hollow plastic skull like a blucky but larger and more detailed - I will post all of his programs when I get home I do not have them here at work.


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## fritz42_male (May 5, 2009)

Cool. Thanks.


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## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

Hey guys I know I said last night but I got stuck at work and by the time I got home I just had dinner and went to bed. Anyway, here are the programs that control the greeter. The first one is for the fading eyes. I have a transistor on output 2 that is controlling the leds.

symbol up=w1
symbol down=w2

start:	high 2
pause 2000
low 2
pause 1000

loop: for down = 1023 to 0 step -15
pwmout 2,200,down
pause 50
next down
pause 500

loop2:	for up = 0 to 1023 step 15
pwmout 2,200,up
pause 50
next up
pause 1500
goto loop

This program is for the Picaxe that is working off the scary terry board that moves the mouth. I know the programs need better comments they were never intended to be posted on-line. So ask any questions that you might have. The semicolon is used for comments so any line with a semicolon ";" just ignore I may have been trying different things.

input 1
;let b0=0 max 220
servo 2,150
pause 1000
servo 2,77
pause 1000
;servo 2,220
;pause 2000
servo 2,210
pause 2000

closed:	servo 2,210
pause 30
goto loop

loop: ;readadc 1,b0
;if b0 > 140 then servo2
if pin1 = 0 then open
goto loop

open: servo 2,170
pause 4
check:	if pin1 = 1 then closed
pause 1
goto check

This is the code for the random head movement.

start:	symbol counter = b3
symbol pointer = b2
symbol delay = 28
let b2=153 'set pointer offset so that head loop does not get stuck
let b0=150
let b1=150 'set default center values
servo 4,pointer 'center servo
pause 6000
'full motion range test
for counter = 150 to 120 step -2	'move head from middle to right side
servo 4,counter 
pause delay
next counter
'servo 4,120
pause 3000

for counter = 120 to 180 step 2
servo 4,counter 'move head from right to left
pause delay
next counter
'servo 4,180
pause 3000

for counter = 180 to 150 step -2
servo 4,counter 'move head from right to middle
pause delay
next counter
'servo 4,pointer
pause 2000

move: random w0 'place a random number in wo (also B0 & B1)

if b1<100 then left 'check for random left
if b1>=100 and b1<=155 then middle	'check for random middle
if b1>=155 then right 'check for random right
goto move 'keep moving the head back to move loop

right:	if pointer = 120 then move 'if head is already Right goto back to move
if pointer = 150 then mr 'check to see if head in pointed middle or the left
for counter = 180 to 120 step -2	'move head from left side to the right side
servo 4,counter
pause delay
next counter
pointer = 120 'set head pointer direction to right
goto skipmr

mr: for counter = 150 to 120 step -2	'move head from middle to right side
servo 4,counter 
pause delay
next counter
pointer = 120 'set head pointer direction to right

skipmr:	pause 7000 'delay to look natural
goto move 'return to move loop

middle:	if pointer = 150 then move 'if head is already in the middle then go back to move
if pointer = 120 then ml 'check to see if head is pointed left or right
for counter = 180 to 150 step -2
servo 4,counter 'move head from right to middle
pause delay
next counter
pointer = 150
goto skipml

ml: for counter = 120 to 150 step 2
servo 4,counter 'move servo from left to middle
pause delay
next counter
pointer = 150

skipml:	pause 9000 'delay to look natural
goto move 'return to move loop

left: if pointer = 180 then move 'if head is already left then return to move
if pointer = 120 then lmr 'check if the head is in the middle or the right
for counter = 150 to 180 step 2
servo 4,counter 'move head from middle to left
pause delay
next counter
pointer = 180
goto skiplmr

lmr: for counter = 120 to 180 step 2
servo 4,counter 'move head from right to left
pause delay
next counter
pointer = 180

skiplmr:	pause 7000 'delay to look natural
goto move 'return to move loop

sorry for the long post


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## fritz42_male (May 5, 2009)

Superb - thanks mate. Any particular reason for the transistor on the eyes? I thought the picaxe would drive a couple of LEDs without needing a boost.

Do you drive any 12V stuff off the picaxe? I'm wondering if I can just lift the common leg on a ULN2003A connected to the picaxe outputs and connect it to a 12V source. This should enable me to drive 12V solenoid valves right?


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## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

fritz42_male said:


> Superb - thanks mate. Any particular reason for the transistor on the eyes? I thought the picaxe would drive a couple of LEDs without needing a boost.
> 
> Do you drive any 12V stuff off the picaxe? I'm wondering if I can just lift the common leg on a ULN2003A connected to the picaxe outputs and connect it to a 12V source. This should enable me to drive 12V solenoid valves right?


The picaxe can source 20ma per pin the leds are high brightness at 25ma each so you need the transistor to handle the current. Any generic switching transistor will work fine. Yes you can use the uln2003A like that. I can give you more details later if you need when I get home.


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## fritz42_male (May 5, 2009)

Thanks propman. I had a look at the tech specs and there are plenty of warnings about drawing excess current from the picaxe so I'm going to keep the 08M boards for basic servo and SSR control and I have some 14M boards with ULN 2003As on which I will use for the coil type relay control for DC stuff like pneumatic valves and (now) LED driving.


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## jdubbya (Nov 6, 2005)

Dave,
Thanks for the pics/vid. Very helpful. Simple and effective. This will help a lot! Appreciate it.


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## hermitturtle420 (Jan 9, 2010)

i gotta get a couple of those motors


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## GoreGator (Mar 24, 2009)

On that gear motor from the link above you guys know where I can find the wiring to plug into it?


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## jaege (Aug 23, 2009)

Hprop

Your stuff is great as usual. I would love to build some things like that, unfortunately I am just getting into the mechanical phase of my haunting career. You say its easy but brain surgery is easy to a brain surgeon. By that analogy, you are right up there with Dr. Frankenstein. Although I do aspire to that level of complexity, someday.


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## hpropman (Jul 27, 2008)

GoreGator said:


> On that gear motor from the link above you guys know where I can find the wiring to plug into it?


Hey Gator the motor case halfs just unsnap then you can just remove the gold pins of the connector that many times do not even touch the motor connections (think battery clip without the spring). Anyway, I just pull the gold clips and toss them and then I file a small channel for the wire to pass through so that it does not get pinched by the case. The motor just lifts out so solder the wires to the motor tabs they are marked Red and black for pos and neg (Note before you solder the wires make sure that the output shaft of the motor spins counterclockwise opposite direction that you will thread a bolt in there). If it spins clockwise reverse the leads and then solder. This ensures that the bolt can not loosen from the motor rotation. fill up the chamber where the gold pins were with hot glue (not near the motor) snap the case back together and you are good to go. I have been using 12v wall warts that are about 14 volts so it turns at about 6RPM at that voltage. these motors have a lot of torque I have used it in my head popper and I building a FCG today actually with one of them.


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## GoreGator (Mar 24, 2009)

Hey, thanks for that info man!!!!


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