# temperature and drying time of spar varnish



## Lizzyborden (Sep 7, 2012)

I'm starting on a few paper mache creations that I need to have ready in a month. My question is exactly how long does it take for spar varnish to dry and what is the absolute lowest temperature you'd recommend using it. I know there is usually a temp. recommendation on the can but I'd rather rely on personal experience of other haunters.

The projects I'm working on will be on display so I need to make sure I give them plenty of time to dry.


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## Troll Wizard (May 3, 2012)

_*I would suggest that you follow the instructions listed on the can. Reason for it, is that these products have been tested over time to different kinds of elements and they are pretty exact on applications and dry times.

Just remember that dry times in colder temps will take longer than expected. If applying outside in your garage, allow at least 24 hours for dry time to the touch. Adding about an extra 24 hours for each 10 degrees lower than what's listed for normal dry times on the can. Also the more ventilation you have will help in shortening the dry times as well.

If these are going to be used for outside decor, I would suggest using a Marine Spar Vanish, it's tougher, last longer and stands up to the elements better than using a vanish for inside use.

If your using a water based varnish instead of an alkyd (oil) then your dry times are a little less, but not much considering the how cold the temps are where you live. Also make sure you are using a good brush to apply it with, cause you don't want to spend time picking off pieces of the brush as you apply it. Using cheap brushes have a habit of doing that.

I hope this helps you with your question! :jol:
*_


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## Hippofeet (Nov 26, 2012)

You can also use gin clear epoxy's made for fishing poles. Diamond Cote is pretty awesome, and self leveling, as well as non yellowing. 

Great tip up there on the brushes, I went to very small stainless spatulas for that very reason. Takes longer to apply, but there is never a stray fat black hair in the finish. I have also used the silicon spatulas like you use for cleaning out the cookie mix bowl, they work well for larger surfaces but are a bit more fussy to get an even coat than a brush, any varnish or epoxy with a long cure time will be self leveling.

I have applied various thick finishes down to 50 degrees, but I dont recommend it. If it sits around long enough tacky, it will collect dust and other invisible airborne particles, and that sucks. And, the extended drying time will freak you out, lol. DRY DAMNIT!!

I would recommend 65 at least, or it is going to take forever.


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## Lizzyborden (Sep 7, 2012)

Thanks for the replies. Weather is warming so hopefully I'll have a nice day to apply the varnish.

As far as the brushes, what's the opinion on using the foam brushes? I know a cabinet maker who uses them to apply coats of urethane as he says it eliminates picking the bristles out of the finish.


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## Troll Wizard (May 3, 2012)

Lizzyborden said:


> Thanks for the replies. Weather is warming so hopefully I'll have a nice day to apply the varnish.
> 
> As far as the brushes, what's the opinion on using the foam brushes? I know a cabinet maker who uses them to apply coats of urethane as he says it eliminates picking the bristles out of the finish.


_*Not really a problem in using foam brushes. They do just a fine as a bristle brush would. You just want to make sure that you have enough on hand. Over a short time the paper inside the foam brushes tends to get overly wet and soggy. They can loose their stability. Don't bother about cleaning them, they are designed to be thrown away after use. If you start again in the morning, use a new foam brush.

Just remember when applying anything, if you start with a brush then end with a brush. If you decide to switch in-between and go to a roller or something else, you will get different looks in the finish if you don't continue with the same type of applicator. 
*_


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## Lizzyborden (Sep 7, 2012)

Well I have to say I'm very happy with the end results using the spar varnish. I used it on some of my paper mache creations and the next day they weren't a bit tacky. I did use foam brushes which made cleanup a breeze as I simply tossed them when I was done.

Now my next question is has anybody ever sprayed spar using a paint sprayer? Even with paying close attention that all surfaces were covered, I found a missed at least one place on the first coat every time. I was thinking that using a sprayer would ensure a more even coating. Any ideas?


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## Troll Wizard (May 3, 2012)

Lizzyborden said:


> Well I have to say I'm very happy with the end results using the spar varnish. I used it on some of my paper mache creations and the next day they weren't a bit tacky. I did use foam brushes which made cleanup a breeze as I simply tossed them when I was done.
> 
> Now my next question is has anybody ever sprayed spar using a paint sprayer? Even with paying close attention that all surfaces were covered, I found a missed at least one place on the first coat every time. I was thinking that using a sprayer would ensure a more even coating. Any ideas?


_*When it comes to using a sprayer, there are different techniques that your have to follow. Such as using the correct tips and possibly thinning the product some. Now unless your using gallons of the product it doesn't really make since to use a sprayer. Today there are many options to choose from as spar varnish is now available in spray cans. You can get different types of finishes as well.

If your worried about missing a spot or two, don't! You will eventually get all of the areas as you continue to coat and re-coat the surfaces. There is also a hand grip attachment that you can get from most supply stores that you can attach to the cans themselves and they act like using a spray gun, without having to use the huge sprayers that you rent.

They have a handle with a trigger, and they snap onto the tops of the rim over the spray tip. Giving you the same effect as a rented sprayer would. *_


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## Lizzyborden (Sep 7, 2012)

I usually do 12 or more at a time and was just thinking that the sprayer would make it a little quicker. Of course after cleaning the gun I guess it really wouldn't save much time at all. 

I do have one of those handles I used to spray finish on a few other projects. The handles work nice but the polyurethane I used seemed to stay a bit tacky for days. Since I'm happy with the spar and since I've hardly made a dent in the gallon can, I think I'll stick with it for the most part, though I do love to experiment.


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## fontgeek (Jul 24, 2006)

Foam brushes are great for some jobs, but if you have really fine detail or a coarse texture, the bristles of a conventional/hairy brush will do better.
As far as a sprayer goes, there are a variety of sprayer types out there, there are airless sprayers such as the handheld Wagner sprayguns all the way up to airless sprayers that use a remote tank/reservoir for the paint or finish. The trick with airless sprayers is to make sure your paint or finish is thoroughly mixed and reduced/thinned enough to spray through, typically this means having the viscosity/thickness about the consistency of whole milk. There's no such thing as having your paint too well mixed or strained. It only takes a little blob of gunk to stop up a sprayer.
If you are using an HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) type sprayer it means you need to have a compressor big enough to handle the volume and pressure required by the gun. These tend to come in two varieties, gravity fed, where the cup or reservoir sits above the gun, and siphon fed, where the cup/reservoir sits below the gun. Siphon fed tend to take more pressure to make them work than their gravity fed brethren. They require more pressure because they have to pull the paint up from the cup below rather than having gravity push the paint down into the path of the air.
Both of these will give you a fine finish, and like the airless, there are different nozzle sizes and type to suit almost any needs.
If you are going to spray your paint, regardless of what kind of sprayer you are using, make sure you are working in a well ventalated area and that you are wearing the proper type of protective gear. Ideally, you want your compressor or spray unit as far away from your actual spraying as possible, this keeps the compressor or base unit from sucking in contaminated air.
Spray from the top or upper areas down. Gravity will carry the overspray down and let you cover it as you go. This saves you from "dusting" or getting a rough paint finish and also save you some paint.


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## fontgeek (Jul 24, 2006)

Sprayed finishes typically dry quite a bit faster than brushed, dipped, or rolled finishes. The thinner layers also tend (for better or for worse) to show more of the texture of the working surface.
Sprayers also tend to use a good bit less paint to cover the same area.
Cleaning isn't difficult or really that time consuming, but the trick is you need to do it as soon as you are done spraying, and not waiting for days or even hours to pass. The longer you hold off from cleaning the harder it is to get the paint or finish out of those small/tight spaces or areas.


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## Lizzyborden (Sep 7, 2012)

Thanks fontgeek! My dad and first husband both did bodywork for a living so I do have access to the sprayers and a compressor though I was thinking more along the lines of trying one of the airless ones. 

And you are so right, the sprayers absolutely must be cleaned as soon as you're finished.


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## fontgeek (Jul 24, 2006)

Both airless and conventional (HVLP) have their advantages. The airless will put out more paint and tends to have less misting overspray than the HVLP, but it also tends to take longer for those paint jobs to dry. The HVLP/conventional sprayer will give you a finer mist or atomization that allows the texture of the substrate/surface to show through rather than filling in every pore. It also allows you to blend colors and feather in colors or finishes more easily. As I said, they both have advantages and disadvantages.
But with both/either, it's by far easier to clean them up right away*than it is to wait 'til later.
If I was doing big walls, stage settings, etc., I'd probably use the airless for the bulk of the painting, and then either/or both, a conventional sprayer or airbrush to add the details, shading, etc.
With both sprayers, mask off anything you DON'T want painted, make sure the surfaces is clean and free of debris, and easy to get to. Once you start spraying you don't want to have to mess with moving things about. Have ladders and any other aids ready to go so that you can keep on spraying. This not only helps you get done faster, but it makes it easier to get a good jump on the cleaning, and it helps you get a better bonding/adhering paint job too.
Start at the top and work your way down.
If you can, get some big sheets of cardboard to practice spraying on. If you are in doubt about the paint or materials you are dealing with, then some scrap pieces of the material to do some trial sprays on is a good idea too.
Ideally, you don't want to handle your painted pieces 'til they are good and dry.
There's always a temptation to pick stuff up and examine it, but avoid the temptation. Many a job have been ruined by handling pained pieces before they were dry.


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